How long to warm up engine before the first drive?

[Greg220]

Although I had promised myself I would warm up the engine well before my first drive, somehow I forgot about it with all the excitement when I got in. It had 2 miles of mileage and was prepared for me at the European Delivery center in Munich. I ran it idle for about 4 minutes before driving off the lot and switching to sports mode (automatic transmission). I was driving with quite fast/dynamic acceleration for about 15 minutes in the high range of 2.5-4k RPM before hitting the highway where I drove off with rather stable speed and 2k RPM.

Now my fear is that perhas I put too much "pressure" on the engine while it was brand new and maybe (?) not well warmed up. It was in July and the outside temperature was not very cold (about 20C) so the engine was not as cold as it might have been in winter.

Another time I switched to manual shifting and accidentaly I ran 6K RPM but it was only for about 3 seconds and the car already had about 200 mileage so I am more worried about the first problem.

On a side note, I wonder how many pre-owned cars that are being sold through dealerships or private parties were broken-in properly. Isn't it risky to buy a pre-owned car knowing it might have permanently lost some power due to misuse in the first 1000 miles driven?

[Rob325_in_AZ]

I don't think you broke any of the rules except for your brief stint at 6k rpm. You're allowed to go up to 4k rpm when the engine is brand-new, and you're supposed to try to vary the engine speed during break in period. "Dynamic" driving is OK, as long as you're not flooring the accelerator. I think you're OK.

[avalys]

I have an oil temperature gauge in my E46. I've found that, on average, it takes about ten miles of driving before the oil temperature reaches 180F, which I consider the minimum for "spirited" driving.

I keep it under 3000-3500 RPM until then.

[Rob325_in_AZ]

I have an oil temperature gauge in my E46. I've found that, on average, it takes about ten miles of driving before the oil temperature reaches 180F, which I consider the minimum for "spirited" driving.

I keep it under 3000-3500 RPM until then.

Just curious: How long does it usually take for oil temp to be normal after the water temp gauge reads normal?

[avalys]

Just curious: How long does it usually take for oil temp to be normal after the water temp gauge reads normal?
I can't answer your question exactly (never thought to gather that particular statistic), but I do know that at the point when the water temp gauge reaches normal, the oil temp gauge hasn't even moved from it's peg.

If I had to guess, I would say that in the summer (I haven't used the gauges in winter yet) the water temp gauge reads normal after two miles. As I said it takes ten for the oil temp gauge to read normal. Obviously this varies slightly with conditions - the oil warms up much quicker in warm weather and slow-moving traffic than it does on a cool day going down on the highway.

The water temp gauge is incredibly optimistic, and completely useless as anything but an idiot light.

[F1Crazy]

Greg, you can sleep better because you didn't do any damage to your engine, you've made a few mistakes though. It's good that you wanted your engine warmed up before running it harder but you don't do it at idle. Idling for long periods of time leads to fuel contamination of oil since the engine runs rich after the cold start and it allows the build up of moisture. You also want your engine warmed up as quick as possible and it's best done at light load.

Initial engine break-in is all about seating the compression rings against the cylinder walls. You need strong gas pressure for a proper seal and this is why highway driving is not recommended during break-in, driving at 2K RPMs doesn't produce enough pressure. For the same reason you want to open up a throttle but make sure to avoid high piston speeds hence 4K RPM limit. You want short bursts of acceleration followed by deceleration using as much engine breaking as possible. It's all much easier done on cars with manual transmissions but you can still do it on your steptronic, just put it in manual mode and shift before 4K RPMs, try to accelerate and decelerate in one gear, say 2nd or 3rd and remember to avoid pressing the gas pedal pass the kickdown.

100 mph limit during break-in is more because of strains it does on the rest of a drivetrain than engine itself (remember that you break-in not only your engine but also transmission and differential).

Things to remember:

1. Don't idle, drive off after there is enough oil pressure to assure free flow (30seconds should be enough).

2. Limit RPMs during warm up, it takes at least 10 minutes.

3. Vary engine speeds without exceeding 4K RPMs.

5. Don't drive like a granny, accelerate hard but break early using engine breaking if possible.

6. Check your oil level on regular basis, keep a bottle in your trunk for top ups. Some engines use oil during break-in but up to a quart is normal.

Just my $.02. :)

[Rob325_in_AZ]

I can't answer your question exactly (never thought to gather that particular statistic), but I do know that at the point when the water temp gauge reaches normal, the oil temp gauge hasn't even moved from it's peg.

If I had to guess, I would say that in the summer (I haven't used the gauges in winter yet) the water temp gauge reads normal after two miles. As I said it takes ten for the oil temp gauge to read normal. Obviously this varies slightly with conditions - the oil warms up much quicker in warm weather and slow-moving traffic than it does on a cool day going down on the highway.

The water temp gauge is incredibly optimistic, and completely useless as anything but an idiot light.

:yikes:
So I'm really not ready to go when the gauge reads warm. I figured there was a little delay but not as much you observed.

I thought this car 'warmed up' suspiciously fast. :confused:

[doeboy]

:yikes:
So I'm really not ready to go when the gauge reads warm. I figured there was a little delay but not as much you observed.

I thought this car 'warmed up' suspiciously fast. :confused:

The stupid water temp gauge is buffered... it reads straight up and down between 75-110C (167-230F) and mine points straight up and down within a mile of leaving my garage.

My oil temp takes on average about 10 mins or so to reach "operating temps".

FWIW... "normal" water temp once warmed up should be approx 88-95C... at least that's what I've seen....

[willpooted]

6. Check your oil level on regular basis, keep a bottle in your trunk for top ups. Some engines use oil during break-in but up to a quart is normal.
I'm way passed the break-in period (at 6300 miles). If my oil level is at medium, should I top it off? Sorry, I'm bad with cars. I'm planning on getting an oil change at 7500 anyhow.

[F1Crazy]

I'm way passed the break-in period (at 6300 miles). If my oil level is at medium, should I top it off? Sorry, I'm bad with cars. I'm planning on getting an oil change at 7500 anyhow.
It's up to you if you wanna top it off, the level is fine as long as it doesn't reach the minimum. I think it's 1 liter difference between min and max mark, at least on E46.

[ObD]

The electric water pump in the E90 doesn't run when you start up in order to warm up the engine quicker. Basically you can start and go. I forget where I heard it but BMW did a study with Autobahn Police BMWs and found no ill effects of a cold start and blasting right to Autobahn speeds ... which is SOP in an emergency.

[Rob325_in_AZ]

Forgive me for a probably dumb question, but why do most cars have water temp gauge instead of oil gauge, if the oil gauge is giving more useful information?

[Greg220]

Greg, you can sleep better because you didn't do any damage to your engine, you've made a few mistakes though.

Thank you for valuable information and answering my question. It would be so much easier to do the engine break-in if I got the car in the US. Doing ED I had to follow my itinerary, which included a lot of highway driving from the day 1. I remembered about varying RPM but I did it only once every hour or so, by changing to sports mode and reducing the gear (this is how I accidentaly got into 6k RPM once). There was not much of breaking with engine on the highway either... However, I had a lot of country-side driving after 500 mileage.

It is 330i with steptronic and ever since I got back from my trip I am being haunted with the thought of possible lose of power due to improper engine break-in (not enough variation of RPM within the first 500 miles, not much breaking with engine etc).

So, if I may ask, is there a way to find out how well/bad the engine break-in process went? Meaning, whether the compression rings are seated well enough not to result in leaks?

If the engine break-in went "so-so", does it already have negative effect on driving and power or it is mostly visible when the car is more than a few years old?

Also, what does "avoid pressing the gas pedal pass the kickdown" mean? I'm sorry if my questions seem trivial...

[pony_trekker]

Thank you for valuable information and answering my question. It would be so much easier to do the engine break-in if I got the car in the US. Doing ED I had to follow my itinerary, which included a lot of highway driving from the day 1. I remembered about varying RPM but I did it only once every hour or so, by changing to sports mode and reducing the gear (this is how I accidentaly got into 6k RPM once). There was not much of breaking with engine on the highway either... However, I had a lot of country-side driving after 500 mileage.

It is 330i with steptronic and ever since I got back from my trip I am being haunted with the thought of possible lose of power due to improper engine break-in (not enough variation of RPM within the first 500 miles, not much breaking with engine etc).

So, if I may ask, is there a way to find out how well/bad the engine break-in process went? Meaning, whether the compression rings are seated well enough not to result in leaks?

If the engine break-in went "so-so", does it already have negative effect on driving and power or it is mostly visible when the car is more than a few years old?

Also, what does "avoid pressing the gas pedal pass the kickdown" mean? I'm sorry if my questions seem trivial...

Your car is toast. It will never work properly. Best bet is to sell it cheap now before it falls apart. :rofl:

[grimreapa]

I agree with pony dude, to properly break it in I would have kept it under 2000 for the first 500 miles then gradually increased to 4000, then 6000 etc. Thats what I did and she runs strong, smoked a 4.6l stang the other day with no problem. No offense pony :thumbup:

[dherzfeld]

So you did ED, and now you're waiting for re-delivery, and you're laying in bed awake worrying about whether you crapped the engine during break in?

Relax and don't worry. Unless you treated the engine like a total moron, the engine is likely fine. Once you get the car, and are able to drive it, your pain will be eased. F1Crazy is correct regarding break-in recommendations. Letting the engine idle to warm up is not advisable, but certainly not the kiss of death either, if you only do it one time.

[Aabid]

Due to our professional relationship with BMW, I was told by a top executive that all BMW engines run for a considerable amount of time so the block and the pistons adapt to each other well before they are loaded on the car. The reason for the brake in is purely business, that is, the manufacturers would like to avoid the risks of being sued if the engines fail.

[ic]

Top executive? :confused: Could you talk to chief engeering next time? :p

[Aabid]

Thought I'd share what was told. May be you are right, the executives may not really know the product they are selling :)

[Greg220]

So you did ED, and now you're waiting for re-delivery, and you're laying in bed awake worrying about whether you crapped the engine during break in?

Relax and don't worry. Unless you treated the engine like a total moron, the engine is likely fine. Once you get the car, and are able to drive it, your pain will be eased. F1Crazy is correct regarding break-in recommendations. Letting the engine idle to warm up is not advisable, but certainly not the kiss of death either, if you only do it one time.

Thanks for the information. I am sure that when I get the car my worries will probably be gone. Until then, as many of us know, waiting for redelivery is a real pain. F1Crazy gave lots of valuable information. I am going to save it for future, perhaps another ED in a few years... :)

[gerchy]

... that all BMW engines run for a considerable amount of time so the block and the pistons adapt to each other well before they are loaded on the car...
That is true, I saw that when I visit the Munich factory. Each car has to "pass" some test, where they are checking some motor and suspension functions with computer generated test course. I saw the engineer "driving" 100 mph at 4000 rpm.

[justchecking]

That is true, I saw that when I visit the Munich factory. Each car has to "pass" some test, where they are checking some motor and suspension functions with computer generated test course. I saw the engineer "driving" 100 mph at 4000 rpm.

BTW Is BMW factory tour an option during ED (European delivery).

-JC.

[ATC BMW]

BTW Is BMW factory tour an option during ED (European delivery).

-JC.

No, it is separate. This is the number for the Munich plant tour (call about 2 months in advance). 011-49-89-382-23306 The website says english tours are only Tues & Thurs, but I got one on a Friday.

[astral]

this post is the best post for answering all my question regarding break-in. :rofl: :thumbup: :rofl:

[Xphstos]

Great post, just had a question. As I was reading through it, noticed that some people recommended to use engine breaking if possible for the break in period. What exactly is engine breaking, do you mean downsifting instead of using the breaks? Sorry new phrase and was just wondering what it stood for.

[JSpira]

Forgive me for a probably dumb question, but why do most cars have water temp gauge instead of oil gauge, if the oil gauge is giving more useful information?

Same reason sensor lights are called idiot lights. :rofl:

Somewhere, someone in BMW believes drivers need to know water temp over oil temp.

[obLu]

Unless you're really concerned with the engine lasting 200k instead of 196k I wouldn't give it much thought. Besides the e46 m3 motors having problems from the factory, when was the last time you heard about somebody in the shop with internal engine problems? I haven't read of any e46's needing engine rebuilds yet. The motor's pretty much bullet proof, quit worrying and start driving it.

What you *should* be concerned with is the electronics. Those should keep you up at night instead of break-in procedures or warming the motor up properly. It's a production car, not a race car.

[timlang]

Is Idling only bad for the engine when it is cold / during warmup? What about after it is warmed up (10 min) and you get stuck in a traffic jam, or a really long light... or a lineup at a border crossing, etc... Is it better to turn on and off the engine everytime to need to move, rather than idle for 2-3 mins between each move?

[obLu]

Cold start with no oil circulation is the only time you're really doing anything "bad" to the engine. Shutting down the motor and starting it just wastes gas ... it does put strain on the engine to keep shutting it off and starting it but I don't much since it's had plenty of oil circulation at that point.

The only thing you really don't want to do is get in the car first thing in the morning when it's stone cold after sitting all night, crank it up, redline it and then floor it up a hill putting the engine under a lot of load. Starting it normally, letting it idle for 10-20 sec while you put your seat belt on, put your cell phone away, get your coffee situated etc, and then drive under light load until the oil pressure comes up and oil's had time to circulate. (they took away the oil pressure guage a long time ago damn them)

Do NOT judge engine warm up by the water temp guage. That has nothing to do with the engine being fully warmed and lubed.

But in the long run it won't matter ... most BMW owners are hipsters and will want to buy the new model LOOOONG before the engine shows any signs of wear or needs a rebuild. I know I would. :D

[Oasis]

Things to remember:

1. Don't idle, drive off after there is enough oil pressure to assure free flow (30seconds should be enough).

2. Limit RPMs during warm up, it takes at least 10 minutes.

3. Vary engine speeds without exceeding 4K RPMs.

5. Don't drive like a granny, accelerate hard but break early using engine breaking if possible.

6. Check your oil level on regular basis, keep a bottle in your trunk for top ups. Some engines use oil during break-in but up to a quart is normal.

Just my $.02. :)

Great advice, THANKS! :thumbup: btw, who's the driver with the close up shot?