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View Full Version : iBus failure - Dension Ice Link the culprit?


sublimaze1
07-29-2005, 03:57 AM
About two or three months ago, I installed an ice link plus with DSP converter and dock cable connector. I have an E38 2001 750iL (DSP of course). Monday I lost turn signals, NAV screen, radio, PDC sensors, and wheel input controls. I also lost the "light flash" with remote door locking.

All fuses are fine - and to be honest, I cannot figure out a remotely plausible series of fuses that could cause all that, and my car does not run XP, so I figure it's the ibus.

The dealer said it's gonna take a day or two to sort it out, but they may be leaning on blaming it on aftermarket installations (e.g. the ice link).

Anyone heard of this? Tom? Anyone?

I have an extended warranty that will cover the ibus if it is the culprit, but not if any stereo component or aftermarket device is to blame.

Just looking for two cents here.

Thanks

W Jones
Dallas Texas

Technic
07-29-2005, 04:47 AM
About two or three months ago, I installed an ice link plus with DSP converter and dock cable connector. I have an E38 2001 750iL (DSP of course). Monday I lost turn signals, NAV screen, radio, PDC sensors, and wheel input controls. I also lost the "light flash" with remote door locking.

All fuses are fine - and to be honest, I cannot figure out a remotely plausible series of fuses that could cause all that, and my car does not run XP, so I figure it's the ibus.

The dealer said it's gonna take a day or two to sort it out, but they may be leaning on blaming it on aftermarket installations (e.g. the ice link).

Anyone heard of this? Tom? Anyone?

I have an extended warranty that will cover the ibus if it is the culprit, but not if any stereo component or aftermarket device is to blame.

Just looking for two cents here.

Thanks

W Jones
Dallas Texas

Although it is too late for you to do anything about the dealer charging you a couple of hundred bucks for just unplugging the ice>Link and restarting your car -if that is actually the culprit, of course- I would like to recommend to anybody else reading this thread that if something like this happens to you just unplug whatever suspicious aftermarket audio accessory installed from the car before stepping into a dealer floor with an electronic complaint.

They love that... :eek:

LDV330i
07-29-2005, 04:51 AM
The dealer said it's gonna take a day or two to sort it out, but they may be leaning on blaming it on aftermarket installations (e.g. the ice link).

Anyone heard of this? Tom? Anyone?

I had something very similar if not identical happen to me. I described that situation in this thread (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76080&highlight=dealer+town+gas). Fortunately the dealer apparently was familiar with this kind of issue and was able to resolve quickly. Your ice link needs to be unplugged and everything will go back to normal. Then you can replug everything back. Though my dealer and your dealer will try to blame this whole issue to "aftermaket" items causing this interference with the I-Bus that is not really correct. Someone else posted that it happened to them with an OEM CD changer. The issue is a loose connection and the I-Bus does not like that.

A few months back somebody posted that his car was in the shop for over week and the dealer could not find what was going on. After I suggested that the dealer try unplugging his XM direct things got fixed. Unfortunately the dealer did not want to admit that the customer had to show him how to fix the car.

sublimaze1
07-29-2005, 02:58 PM
Yep!

Shoulda thought of that. Poor Monday morning QB-ing on my part.

Indeed, was the ice-link.

Agree with the issue of them blaming "aftermarket"

QUESTION:

When you plug it back in, how long is it going to last before this does it again?

W Jones

sublimaze1
07-29-2005, 03:05 PM
Oh -

and another thing -----

My service manager stated that when he unplugged the ice-link, the system came back up. But when he plugged it back in, the system stayed down and would not come up. Unplugging it made it come back up again.

Seems like there is a conflict

(but this is ODD - 'cause I had this in for a long time - 3+ months - before anthing happened.)

Any input would be APPRECIATED

W Jones

LDV330i
07-29-2005, 03:17 PM
Oh -

and another thing -----

My service manager stated that when he unplugged the ice-link, the system came back up. But when he plugged it back in, the system stayed down and would not come up. Unplugging it made it come back up again.

Seems like there is a conflict

(but this is ODD - 'cause I had this in for a long time - 3+ months - before anthing happened.)

Any input would be APPRECIATED

W JonesI have had no problems since then, nearly 9 months. My system had been in for nearly 9 month before these electrical gremlins arose.

I am not clear what your are referring to on this last post. I am specially confused with your statement : Unplugging it made it come back again. :confused: :confused:

tom@densionusa
07-29-2005, 03:31 PM
Oh -

and another thing -----

My service manager stated that when he unplugged the ice-link, the system came back up. But when he plugged it back in, the system stayed down and would not come up. Unplugging it made it come back up again.

Seems like there is a conflict

(but this is ODD - 'cause I had this in for a long time - 3+ months - before anthing happened.)

Any input would be APPRECIATED

W Jones

We just spoke over the phone a little bit ago, keep in mind that dealers will almost automatically blame aftermarket devices during the troubleshooting phase. Why this would happen 3 months down the road and not immediately is tough to diagnose.

We are swapping the module out to see if it is a defective module (possible), if the behavior continues - it may be other parts of the system that is non-ice>Link related.

tom@densionusa
07-29-2005, 03:34 PM
While we're on the dealer rant - I had a customer of mine call today to report that the dealer charged him $75 to reinitialize the radio.

Not sure what his dealer referred to as reinitializing, but we refer to it as disconnecting the battery cables or simply removing the fuses (battery is recommended).

Seems a AAA service call would have been cheaper.