iE Camber/Toe Brackets - Little Info

[LynxZ3r0]

Okay, I think I understand it.. but I want confirmation ;)

The trailing arm brackets that exist on the subframe must be oblonged in the up and down fashion, and then have the new iE sourced brackets welded on top of the subframe piece.

Is this a correct statement? Anything else I need to know?

[phrider]

I expect that DMW will chime in... these are his pix below. You'll want to explore for other photos in the same section of his web site.

http://www.rfdm.com/Suspension/pics/IrelandToeCamber/medium/4347.jpg
http://www.rfdm.com/Suspension/pics/IrelandToeCamber/medium/4346.jpg
http://www.rfdm.com/Suspension/pics/IrelandToeCamber/medium/4324.jpg
http://www.rfdm.com/Suspension/pics/IrelandToeCamber/medium/4335.jpg

[JBgotM]

I have the same questions. I have looked any Daniel's pics and website. Thanks Daniels for having all this stuff for us!

Any tips? Its gonna be a big job to drop the whole rear of the car with brakes/ diff/subframe and all. I need to try and do this soon.

[Sands]

Go find a Harbor Freight and buy a cheap air grinder and some bits. It will make the job must easier then a dremel tool. (also get face and hand protection...)

Some marking dye and a scribe would also help so you know where to grind.

That is if you don't have this stuff already. IMHO, cheep tools are fine for a once a year use kinda project stuff. No sense in buying a $70 grinder for a one weekend project.


Oh, and measure twice, cut once.

[LynxZ3r0]

I actually have all the tools needed, and I always measure twice .. or three times.. or four sometimes.. ;)

I'm going to let my machine shop guy do it though, just for precision and because he's going to be "in there anyways"

I just wanted to make sure that all 4 holes must be oblonged in the up/down direction and then the plates welded over top of the existing brackets. :)

[Randy Forbes]

I actually have all the tools needed, and I always measure twice .. or three times.. or four sometimes.. ;)

I'm going to let my machine shop guy do it though, just for precision and because he's going to be "in there anyways"

I just wanted to make sure that all 4 holes must be oblonged in the up/down direction and then the plates welded over top of the existing brackets. :)
NOT all four get oblonged in the same direction!

One set is oblonged up and down (inner, maybe, for the camber change) and the other set is oblonged fore and aft (outer, perhaps, for the toe change).

I really can't remember off the top of my head which set goes which way, so please do verify (by calling Jeff Ireland, for example).

Perhaps Daniel's memory recall is better than mine... :eek: :eeps: :yikes: :rofl:

[LynxZ3r0]

Hehe, alright, I was thinking that MIGHT be the case but had not seen any pictures of the work.

Thanks Randy ;) I'll give Jeff an email and let my machinist know.

[dwm]

NOT all four get oblonged in the same direction!

One set is oblonged up and down (inner, maybe, for the camber change) and the other set is oblonged fore and aft (outer, perhaps, for the toe change).

I really can't remember off the top of my head which set goes which way, so please do verify (by calling Jeff Ireland, for example).

Perhaps Daniel's memory recall is better than mine... :eek: :eeps: :yikes: :rofl:

Outboard ones are toe (slotted horizontally), inboard ones are camber (slotted vertically).

[Randy Forbes]

Outboard ones are toe (slotted horizontally), inboard ones are camber (slotted vertically).
Thanks for verifying that. As you know, I've slept since then... :p