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View Full Version : e46 electric problems. Please help


silvscorp
01-28-2006, 05:30 PM
The problem happened on a 03 m3 coupe. I didn't want to put this into the m3 specific section because I think this could be a generic electric problem.

I got this car used. The only electronic related device is a simple 2 way amp and a 10" JL sub. According to the owner those were installed long time ago. The car has about 23k miles and this problem just happened today.

While taking a small turn at 7mph the wiper all the sudden came on, I thought I clicked it by accident so I just move the wiper switch up and down to turn it off. The bext thing I know, all hell broke loose. To make it easy, I"ll list the problems below:

1. The volume change buttons on the steering wheel stopped working

2. The turn signal in the cluster stopped working. Some times it would start flashing like 10-20 seconds after I activated swich and it won't go off unless I open and slam the driver door shut really hard.

3. At night, with headlights on, the cluster light is not working. (can't read the rpm and speed,etc) The dimmer switch would work for all interior dash light except the cluster light. Again, if I open and slam the driver door hard, the cluster light would come on again but there is no way to turn it off even I remve the key from the car. I had to disconnect the battery to make it go off.

It sounds like some connection got loose. All the light will work but just not working the way it's suppose to. I checked all the related fuses and all seemed ok.

Besides these problems, the car drives fine and everything else is working as it should. Has something similar happened to anyone else? Is this something perhaps I can fix myself? (where should I check for the connections related to my description)

Thanks,

BmW745On19's
01-29-2006, 03:08 PM
Check the fuses is all I can think of, other than that, if your car is under warranty i'd take it to the dealer.

hawk2100n
01-29-2006, 04:02 PM
Could be low voltage. Check the alternator and battery for correct voltages.

crash8168
01-29-2006, 05:57 PM
The problem happened on a 03 m3 coupe. I didn't want to put this into the m3 specific section because I think this could be a generic electric problem.

I got this car used. The only electronic related device is a simple 2 way amp and a 10" JL sub. According to the owner those were installed long time ago. The car has about 23k miles and this problem just happened today.

While taking a small turn at 7mph the wiper all the sudden came on, I thought I clicked it by accident so I just move the wiper switch up and down to turn it off. The bext thing I know, all hell broke loose. To make it easy, I"ll list the problems below:

1. The volume change buttons on the steering wheel stopped working

2. The turn signal in the cluster stopped working. Some times it would start flashing like 10-20 seconds after I activated swich and it won't go off unless I open and slam the driver door shut really hard.

3. At night, with headlights on, the cluster light is not working. (can't read the rpm and speed,etc) The dimmer switch would work for all interior dash light except the cluster light. Again, if I open and slam the driver door hard, the cluster light would come on again but there is no way to turn it off even I remve the key from the car. I had to disconnect the battery to make it go off.

It sounds like some connection got loose. All the light will work but just not working the way it's suppose to. I checked all the related fuses and all seemed ok.

Besides these problems, the car drives fine and everything else is working as it should. Has something similar happened to anyone else? Is this something perhaps I can fix myself? (where should I check for the connections related to my description)

Thanks,
Did you check to see if everything goes back to working correctly after the battery is reconnected? chances are it will.

silvscorp
01-30-2006, 11:52 AM
Just an update, the problem seems to be fixed for now.

I've tried to disconnect batterys for as long as 4 hours. Reconnected it, still the same problems. Then I disconnect the battery again, unplugged stock cd player, plugged it back in again just to make sure the connection is secure. I also checked the input to the amp for the woofer (aftermarket) and found it is a little loose, so I plugged it in tight. The grounding to the input is also a little loose so I tightened that up as well. I then reconnect battery again and everything is working properly again. I am not quite sure what could be the problem. I've tried to remove the plug and unground the amp input but couldn't replicate the problem.

I just hope this won't happen again.

LDV330i
01-30-2006, 08:29 PM
I went through a smilar problem over 1 1/2 years. The dealer immediately knew what the problem was. Unplugging the CD changer and reconnecting it solves the problem. A loose connection freaks out the I-Bus and you start having weird stuff going on. There have been several threads on this issue.

silvscorp
01-31-2006, 02:45 PM
Ah, so it was the CD player? Those who have dension ice link installed had very similar problems that I was experiencing. Since I didn't have the ice link so I figured it might be something to do with the i-bus connection. So I just unplug/replug in the CD player, along with checking other connection back in the trunk.

I tried to disconnect and wiggle the connection on the CD player afterwards but wasn't able to replicate the problem. The plug on the back of the CD player seems to fit on pretty tight because that "push-down" lock. Not sure how exactly the connection became loose.

LDV330i
01-31-2006, 10:29 PM
Ah, so it was the CD player? Those who have dension ice link installed had very similar problems that I was experiencing. Since I didn't have the ice link so I figured it might be something to do with the i-bus connection. So I just unplug/replug in the CD player, along with checking other connection back in the trunk.

I tried to disconnect and wiggle the connection on the CD player afterwards but wasn't able to replicate the problem. The plug on the back of the CD player seems to fit on pretty tight because that "push-down" lock. Not sure how exactly the connection became loose.Actually it is not the CD player but CD player connector used to also connect IceLink and in my case the Blitzsafe adapter to my Alpine MP3 changer.

People need to be aware that the dealer may try to blame the non OEM equipment as the culprit which is not correct because it has happened with OEM CD changers. In my case I was not charge a diagnostic fee by the dealer but was warned that next they would be charged because of my use of non OEM equipment. Somebody else posted that they had been charge over $300 because the dealer was clueless.

silvscorp
02-01-2006, 06:44 AM
Ah thanks for the confirmation. The connector is what I meant. I tried to wiggle the connector(wire harness) on the back of the cd player while the car is on but couldn't replicate the problem.

I have an OEM changer coming soon and I hope this won't make the problem worse. But at least know I know where to look if this should happen again.