Fuel Filter/Regulator...HELP!!!

[omw41]

Ok. It's an 86 325 ES. There's a filter, or regulator, I'm not sure which it is...but it has a vac. hose on one side and a fuel line on the other, and it "snaps" into the top of the motor into a hole where one can clearly see fuel. So, I'm at the junkyard the other day trying to get my 20 dollar yard charge worth of parts, and I spy this thing, and I take it off and decide to put it onto my car. (I had really good luck doing this with an idle control valve.) Anyhow, not such good luck this time.

Once the hoses are disconnected and the two mounting screws are taken off, one just pulls up on it and it snaps loudly out. The problem is getting it to go back in. I tightened the bolts down when I put the junkyard part in.... car's crusing nicely...but I smell fuel. So I pull over...and sure enough it's like squirting out of the bolt. So I think the junkyard one is bad, put the old one back in...and it does the same thing. Then I start to notice the rubber washers are torn...then I think I may have stripped the bolts and threads on the mounting bracket. Someone, please, set me straight on this. I'm also researching it in my Chilton's. By the way, thanks so much for this website. It's a nice community.

Thanks

[SWISS]

http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting.php :tsk: Was the part from an e? is your car an i? vice versa?watch the link, you could learn something.:thumbup:

[omw41]

Well, I viewed the link, and I must admit, I've learned nothing. It states in Mein auto what type of vechile I have. In any case, your reply was a bit heavy handed. I did search previous posts, and all I found were vague references to changing the regulator, and no mention of the difficulty encounterd in getting the part to fit. In any event remember what mama said, "If you can't say something nice, don't say any thing at all."

[omw41]

I did learn from reading your reply that I have to be careful to match an E with an E. Thanks. Sorry if this doesn't "add" any thing to the environment.

[SWISS]

I don't mind helping if you have done your homework the question you asked is a little vague in repect to what kind of e30 did you pull this regulator off. I know on my 2.5i it slips in with ease just a slight push to fit the seal and bolt it down. You probably have the wrong regulator. Have you crosss referenced the part # with the reg you removed and the one you have indstalled? :tsk: Do that and report your findings or you will be docked cool points, and eventually have your pimp license revoked :bigpimp: Now post the thread "How do I get an avater?" :rofl:

[omw41]

Yes, I can dig it, but sometimes homework involves a little trial and error. Thus, a good teacher remembers to have patience and subscribes to the philosopohy that, "There are no stupid questions, just stupid people." Unfortunately, I have done my reading and know how to get an "avatar." Sorry, you acn't set me up for failure on that one. Also, I am told that most of the regulators should work in all the cars from 1984-1988. Of course, that could be faulty information, but that's why I came here.

[SWISS]

Yes, I can dig it, but sometimes homework involves a little trial and error. Thus, a good teacher remembers to have patience and subscribes to the philosopohy that, "There are no stupid questions, just stupid people." Unfortunately, I have done my reading and know how to get an "avatar." Sorry, you acn't set me up for failure on that one. Also, I am told that most of the regulators should work in all the cars from 1984-1988. Of course, that could be faulty information, but that's why I came here.Did you ever check the part #'s on your two regulators? And if you wnt to avoid replacing the fuel rail, run a tap of the appropriate size and use some of that "Magnum Steel" stuff to repair your stripped hole. Why are you replacing this in the first place?

[omw41]

The coupling on the fuel rail is really out of round. That seems to have been caused by my not tightening the bolts with equal turns. I've done my best to re-round it with pliers...but it's still fairly funky. It looks like I may have to replace the fuel rail. The problem seems to have been that it's a 2o year old car and when one of the 2 previous owners attempted to do something similiar, it looks like they bent the mounting bracket to fit thier needs. a good idea on the tapping, but I came up with another solution, just nut a bolt of the same size that is a little longer.

I'm replacing it because of the age of the car and the last owner did no routine stuff...I thought this would be an easy replacement, but with age, things like brackets tend to get bent for whatever reason...and that has complicated the issue. Like I said, the last guy did no maintaince ...but maybe he tried once! He would just take it to the BMW Dealer when like... the clutch went bad.

So what have I learned that may be helpful? One, fuel pressure regulators should last the life of the car. Two, match up the part numbers. I still can't do that on my old one because someone painted over it and when I scrape it off I see no numbers...just made in Germany and the BMW logo. I'm making one last ditch attempt at reinstalling the old one...then I'm going to drop the 60 odd dollars an exact replacement will cost. Also, one may be able to spare themselves a fuel rail purchase by nutting the stripped insert on the mounting bracket;unfortunately, due to the condition of mine...I may need a fuel rail...most likely I will... and lastly...be careful when removing these old parts...things can and will bend easily...and possibly break. The car is down, but not out!

[mike b]

before you proceed and remove your fuel rail, make sure you visit the dealer and get some replacement o-rings for your fuel injectors and the pressure regulator. your leak will only be worse if you don't replace these after you pull the rail. you can order these from various sources online if you don't have a dealer nearby. Try pelican or alloembmwparts.com.

also, if the boneyard part is causing the opening in the fuel rail to elongate when you tighten down the bolts, I suspect you have the wrong regulator for your car. check the part numbers and make sure you have the right one.

Mike

[JRWperformance]

That sounds like your cold start injector. Youprobrobly just need new seals. Pull it out and make sure its clean and free of any nicks or damage. Even if it is not the cold start injector you probly just need new o rings. old ones can swell and get too big to fit in causing your troubles

[SWISS]

I don't know what they are talking bout aside from the injector seal kit. This is a pain in the A$$ to do so if you can avoid it...do. Intake manifold removal makes it an easier and less time consuming task imo. make sure you get all the neccassary seals and gaskets. DO NOT REUSE ANY GASKET!! these cars absolutly hate vacuum leaks and will let you know you if you have one(ie rough idle,CEL) good luck and chime in if you get stuck and your Chilton's leaves you hangin(they are known to do that)

[omw41]

Ok...I've spent the day trying compromise solutions...and even if I have the wrong regulator...the bracket on the rail has become so compromised...I'm going to HAVE to replace the rail now. I checked BAV auto and they don't list the rail...is this something I'll have to get from the boneyard..or what?

Thanks!

[omw41]

Mike,

Thanks for the good advice. Is replacing a fuel rail something a shadetree can do? I have a Haynes.

[omw41]

Are the rubber seals the same for the regulator as for the injectors? I looked at alloembmwparts.com and they don't show any regulator seals. the injector seals are only 1.49 each, so one or two more is no expense. I'm just wondering if they're the same as the regulator seal. In the picture, it looks the same.

[mike b]

Mike,

Thanks for the good advice. Is replacing a fuel rail something a shadetree can do? I have a Haynes.

I did it on both my 318is, 325i and M5 without removing the intake manifold. It's not super easy given that the injector o-rings are probably baked into the manifold by now and will not slide in the bore very easily. I found that a couple drops of oil where the injectors enter the manifold make it easier to work them out. Make sure you remove any mounting bolts that hold the rail in place and disconnect the fuel rail wiring harness. Be sure to pull the rail straight out. If you need to rock them back and forth to let the oil seep past the o-ring, don't use too much force. Once the rail is free of the manifold be careful how you handle it because you don't one to break the plastic pintle caps on the ends of the injectors. BTW, make sure that all the pintles come out with the injectors. On my M5, they have a tendency to crack and fall down in the manifold. You can use a good carb & choke cleaner to remove any carbon build up from the injector tips before you reassemble things. To remove the injectors from the rail, first disconnect the electrical connections, then the clips that secure them to the rail. Pay attention to how the clips are installed so you can reinstall them the same way on the new rail. Once you get the rail out of there you'll realize it's not that bad of job.

I would strongly recommend to get a Bentley service manual if your planning on keeping the car awhile. It's one of the best investments you'll make.

Mike

[mike b]

Yes, they are the same.