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Coucoui 6
04-26-2006, 11:04 PM
Coolingmist.com 150-psi alcohol/water injection installations write up.

At the time of this write up I just have one more small item to complete than I’m finished!!! I just have to make sure my boost switch is set at 4psi for my application then I’m done.

Disclaimer…
This is my first write up and I will try to be detailed as possible. Please feel free to alter the instructions based on your own personal needs. I will also post picture on the forum. Although, these pictures will not be label in the order of this write up. I cannot claim responsible for any damages based on these instructions. This write up is a way for me to contribute back to the forum and other BMW friendly and helpful sites that have aided me in my BMW passion.

My vehicle…
98 Dinan Supercharged M3.
Being a ’98, it is OBD2 and it has the older Powerdyne Supercharger. The ECU has the Dinan program and the fuel injectors are 29.64 lbs. My M3 has the stock 3.12” supercharger pulley and stock 5.25” crank pulley (info from the web). I will be changing the supercharger pulley to the 2.70” soon.

Other modifications: UUC 8lbs flywheel & SPEC 6 puck clutch; UUC sway bars; Urethane bushings: control arm & trail arm & tranny mount; x brace; Dinan strut brace; Bilstein sport shocks w/ Vogtland club spec springs; E46 rear strut mount with Z3 re-enforcement plates; Understeer short shifter with Momo knob; lower temperature thermostat; Brembo slotted rotors with Hawk HP+ pads… I think that’s it… for now.

Instructions:
First the kit came with almost everything you will need for the general application of most cars. But the instructions were not detailed at all. The online instructions were just a simple explanation of what each item does in the kit. The installer has to use their imagination to complete the rest. I ordered the 150-psi pump kit without a water tank. I decided to mount my pump in the engine bay and tap the windshield water tank. Why? I did it for easy of installation and my stock tank has a low water sensor to my center display. I do know that the trunk is more ideal for a cooler water temperature but I just didn’t want to run the line from that far back. To keep my water source cool, I will install a heat shield to insulate the tank from the exhaust heat.

My kit came with the pump, M2 nozzle, inline check valve, relay, boost switch (1-25 lbs), tubing, electrical wiring, and wire ends. In addition to the kit, I also ordered 2 additional nozzles (M5= 6gal/hr, M3= 4gal/hr) and inline brass water filter. At Lowe’s, I also got ½” plastic T- fitting, 3/8” to ¼” hose fitting (only size in stock), zip ties, wire tubing, hose clamps, water pump pick up filter. The filter was a replacement filter from a pressure washer. The kind of pressure washer used on home driveways, boats, RV, etc…

Deciding where to put the pump was one of the hardest and the most important. I thought about it for two days before working. Ideally, the pump should be within 3 ft and below the water levels of the tank. Even though the pump is rated at 5-8 linear feet distance. You don’t want the pump to work so hard to siphon. The pump can be mounted in any position. So I decided to mount the pump inverted, right in back of the passenger headlamp and in front of the water tank. I took of the pump’s original bracket off and used a L-shape bracket that came from my window blinds. I bolted the L bracket on to the pump and mounted the pump with a rubber pad onto the car’s metal brace behind the light. This was where my stock factory alarm horn was. I just moved the horn closer to the radiator. I made sure to mount the pump between the high beam and low beam plugs. This way I can have easier accesses to change my lights later. I think the rubber pad is very important here because the pump vibrates during operation.

Taping off the tank…. I drilled a small hole on top of the tank rather than below. Why? Because my input tube into my pump is slight below the water tank. Once I have water in the tube this will cause a nature siphon. Much like cleaning out a fish tank. Drilling a hole in the bottom of the tank will have a gravity feed into the pump rather than a nature pressure of the siphon. Also a hole on the bottom can possibly start leaking.

Next, I ran the water line from the pump to the front of my car, just behind the nose grill, to the driver side. This way the line is kept cool. Right behind the driver side headlamp is where I install the inline brass filter and then the check valve before connecting to the water nozzle. I drilled small hole in the aluminum tube between the supercharger and the throttle body. Note: use a smaller drill bit and work your way up to the right size. You don’t want to make a mistake and drill too large and then use washer to fix it. I use piping tape on the treads of each brass NPT nut. I also zip tight the water line to each brass fitting. Decide on nozzle size at the end of installation. In the end and after a few tests… I decided to use the M3 nozzle. I may switch later depending on the HP gains from the smaller supercharger pulley.

The electrical portion is pretty straight and simple. I mounted the relay close to the power block, where I got my constant power. The boost switch is mounted near the throttle body were I taped of the brake booster hose. I used factory grounding points for the pump and boost switch. From the pump, I tucked the wires within the wire tube and routed it along the passenger wheel well to the relay. From the relay to the boost switch, the wire was routed along the firewall. You can tuck the wires inside the black wire box over the motor or route it up through the plastic panel under the windshield wipers. I did the second option. Once again, I used a lot of wire tubing to keep everything pretty.

The ignition line from the relay was the pain in my rear end. I could not decide were to connect it to. I thought about the fuse box… that would have been the easiest but I wanted the ability to turn off my system from inside my car. Wiring through the firewall was a major pain. Now, I’ve worked on other cars… i.e. Japanese and U.S. stuff with no problems. But BMW has so much panels and sound proofing materials surrounding the cab. Without going into the details of my trying efforts, I finally found a little rubber grommet that I was able to use. So, I routed the relay ignition line the same way as the boost switch line along the firewall to the grommet. The grommet was behind the master brake cylinder on the wall. It is a very tight space. It was difficult to work on. I poked a hole with a coat hanger and feed the wire through. Before using the hanger, uninstall the under panels in the driver cockpit to see what you are doing.

Under the driver side dash is the initial plastic under panel. It has 3 philip screws to remove and a plastic hook that is clamped on the side of the dash (facing the door). Be careful not to pull to hard. Just pull the panel out and shift to the left to unclip the plastic hook. After that is a metal/foam board that has three 10mm screw holding it. After removing all the panels, you should be able to see the coat hanger wire. Then pull the relay ignition wire through by the hanger wire. Next, I installed a push button switch to the left of my steering column. I drill a ½” hole in one of the small removal plastic rectangle tabs. I found an ignition wire (green/yellow) with a voltmeter on the back of the headlamp dial. I spliced into the ignition line and wired it to the button. I also wired the ignition input line from the relay to this button. Carefully tucking all the wires and reinstalling all the panels back. Now, I can turn my system off from inside my car when the water levels are too low.

Done… the mounting of the pump and the ignition power wire took the longest time and the most thought. But in the end… it was all worth it. Of course, it’s worth it.... BMW. Anyways, my time is gone. And I don't have a lot of…. Gone are the days of working out for hours or working on cars for days.

Coucoui 6
04-26-2006, 11:39 PM
here are the pictures.

540-S3
05-29-2006, 01:30 PM
Hey Coucoui 6 - I live here is Temecula also. I would really like to see your car and setup. Nice to find another local enthusiast.

Send me an email at audiejohnsen@adelphia.net

Regards,
Audie