Rear axle/shaft removal, need help please??

[GodFather]

Hi there guys, new to this forum, i have a 1998 M3, and i need help on removing the rear left shaft (driver's side) i mean, i have taken everything off, that is, rotor, caliperr, pads, i took it off the differential end, took out the 36mm 12pt nut that holds the shaft, now all i need to do is slide it out of its axle housing, but it wont come off, is it holding on to something else, or is that just rust built up in there, what do i need to do??? Thanx alot,
Stan

[thebigbr]

i believe it is also held in at the differential, youll have to pop the diff cover off and take off 4 bolts, slide the diff gears out, then slid out the axle....i havent looked in that perticular diff, but thats how i did it on the last two diffs i have done.

[thebigbr]

this might help

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum//showthread.php?s=&threadid=177945

[GodFather]

Ah, well i think we are misunderstanding each other, i just want to take the shaft out, i dont need to take the differnetial, the diff stays there, i did get it off the diff end, i removed those torx bolts the other guy was talking about, and now the shaft moves freely, however it is still held in the housing, where the rotor is, andi removed the 36mm 12point nut that holds the shaft from the outside, so technically i should be able to just slide it out, however it is not coming out, ive been banging on it, twisting it, all sorts of thing, so my question is if its held somewhere in there as well, i just dont see where, but wanted to ask first before i start banging on it even harder, Thanx again for all your help guys,
Stan

[GodFather]

No help from anybody???? :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

[Valk6pac]

The Axle shaft is both splined and tapered, once everything is removed from the trailing arm (speed sensor, parking brake cable, Etc:) spray the axle shaft (where it slides into the hub) with a good penetrating, anti corrosive rust eating fluid, grab a punch and vise grip to avoid hand injuries and a bigger hammer 3lb or slightly larger and give a few good whacks and you should be in business.

[GodFather]

i removed the drums, removed the abs sensor, the only thing thats there now is the e brake cable and the dust protector, but the dust protector cannot be removed, unless you take the axle out first, also, do i really need to remove the e-brake cable?? ill go hit up autozone tomorrow for some rust eating fluid, so far ive been using WD40, but it hasnt been helping at all, i tried heating it too, but that doesnt do it :(

[csd]

You will need a HOT torch to heat up that much metal. I doubt a propane torch would do it. You will probably cook the grease in the wheel bearing in the process, however.

I have removed the driver's side half-shaft, and you have unbolted everything you need to. The 36mm axle bolt and the torx bolts that attach the half shaft to the differential are all that need to be removed.

WD40 is not a good penetrating fluid. Get some PBlaster. I think WalMart has it. Sounds like you are going to need a heavy hammer and something to use as a big punch.

[GodFather]

Well what the hell??!!!! i was tired of bangingont he stupid axle, so i took the whole thing off. By the whole thign i miean, the axle with the trailing arm and hub and wheel bearing everythign still attached to gether. i took it to a mechanic, he had a 20 TON Hydraulic Press, well first he heated the bastard really really good, then he tried to push it out with the press, and guess what...........the stupid thing will NOT come off, both of us were like, what the f*** is going on here? so the heating up thing didnt work, the 20 ton press didnt work, i already bought a new axle, now i am about to buy a new trailing arm and just put them together, i've ran out of ideas??? :( :( :( :cry: :cry: :cry:

[CJH]

A larger press is required, 50 ton or higher. I have a 100 ton at work, (we use all 100 tons on occasion). A small amount of rust can seize that thing tighter than a bull's ass in a wind storm. It will pop like a shotgun when it finally breaks loose. After that much force you'll need to replace the bearings regardless. The balls will have certanly damaged the races.

When installing the new parts, put a light coating of Anti Seize on the axle shaft to prevent a recurrance. Sounds like you've got it nailed with a new trailing arm.