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jimbobimmer
01-19-2007, 08:40 AM
Definate newbie question. My first BMW is about to arrive. Black Sapphire E90. I live in the north-east and it will serve as my daily driver. What should I be doing right off the bat in terms of exterior care. Should I be heading straight from the dealer to a reputable detailer for a couple of coats of wax? Once the weather improves I plan on following a lot of the great guidance here for home detailing, just trying to figure out what I should get done and when at a detail shop.

Thanks...

TOGWT
01-19-2007, 09:52 AM
New vehicle, Initial Care:
Most people believe that a new car needs little if any care for the first week or so, not true. Most new vehicles leave the factory, they sit in dirt parking lots, they are transported by trains, trucks, or ships, and then they are generally subjected to the removal of transit plastic protection wrap and usually harsh washing conditions once they arrive at the car dealership.

Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free Acid rain, road salt; tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust are very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys.

These particles carry a negative charge while the vehicles they land on are carrying a positive charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface, once you add water (dew, rain, humidity, etc) any of the microscopic particles of steel, iron that have compromised the paint surface will cause rust contamination

1. RapGard (Plastic Transit Film):
Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings. Plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there maybe excess adhesive residue left on the surface.
Spray Valugard’s New Car Prep onto the Rapgard, allow to dwell for three or four minutes. Remove NCP residue with a 100% cotton towel (DFTowel) The Rapguard should now gently peel off, pull away from body at a 45 degree angle using an even pressure, you may find that it shreds. The ideal paint surface temperature for RapGuard removal is between 600F (150C) to 800F (260C) If the surface temperature is below 600F (150C) removal is best done inside. Spray the uncovered paint surface with New Car Prep to remove any adhesive residue htpp://www.autoint.com

Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water any remove any ‘solid’ adhesive residue with detailers clay. The product they use is either Cosmoline (used by Porsche amongst others) or a blend of paraffin and a synthetic wax, but it’s mainly paraffin that is used to protect new cars during shipment. They are sprayed on most engine and exterior finishes to provide a barrier to the elements. (Zymöl Strik™ Cosmoline Remover and Engine Cleaner) will remove it-
Product specific - Zymol http://fp.zymol.com/strik2.htm) or AutoBody Prep (http://www.autoint.com)

Most important; protect the finish with a polymer sealant and / or a Carnauba wax
(See also new Polymer Sealant, Polymer Sealant or Waxing New Paint)

2. Cleaning Wheel Surface:
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces. Apply a polymer to the wheel surfaces (Klasse All-In-One)

3.Cleaning Tyres:
•Rinse thoroughly with a fairly strong stream of clean water to remove any loose road dirt etc., from tyre’s and wheel wells.
•Clean tyres with a rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner -39036) or a citrus-based APC (P21S Total Auto Wash)
•Use a water-based polymer tyre dressing (Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss™)
•Apply a (UVR) protection to the tyres.

4. Detailers Clay:
Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free
•Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
•Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into two or three fingers
•Spray a 2-foot by 2-foot surface with a 5:1 lubricating solution (Distilled water / WooliteTM or Dreft™ ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
•Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
•Use long strokes without lifting the clay from the surface
•Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
• If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out

5. Vinyl and hard plastic surfaces:
•Apply any dressings very sparingly as these surfaces don’t allow the dressings to penetrate very well
•Use a suitable matte type dressing (Iz Cockpit Premium) to ensure that there is no reflection on the windshield, reducing visibility.
•Apply a UVR protection (303 Space Protectant) especially to the dash and any other surface that is subjected to sunlight on a regular basis.

6. Surface Protection:
Regularly applied wax and/or a polymer sealant will both protect the paint surface from surface contamination that collects on a painted finish which includes, Industrial fallout (IFO), Rail Dust, Acid Rain, Hard Water Spots, Tar, Bird Droppings, Waxes/Silicones, Oxidation, Adhesive Residue, Road Grime Rust Stains. I would seriously consider the purchase of a clear automotive protective coating (aka Clear Bra)

Use Optimum Poli-Seal and white lake county (LC) polishing pad, this one-step product is perfect for the neophyte or experienced detailer, it will make a noticeable improvement on even brand new paint as it will deepen the shine and jetting (wet-look gloss) durability approx. 3-4 months, maintain the shine with Optimum Spray Wax- http://superiorcarcare.net/oppo.html

7. Car Cover:
The greatest treats to the preservation of your vehicle are; Airborne Contaminants, Industrial Fallout (this includes Acid Rain) Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) Oxidation, Bird Excrement and Brake Dust, wind blown debris and pollution. Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultra-violet radiation (UVR) they are water resistant and provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris.

dboy11
01-19-2007, 10:06 AM
Definate newbie question. My first BMW is about to arrive. Black Sapphire E90. I live in the north-east and it will serve as my daily driver. What should I be doing right off the bat in terms of exterior care. Should I be heading straight from the dealer to a reputable detailer for a couple of coats of wax? Once the weather improves I plan on following a lot of the great guidance here for home detailing, just trying to figure out what I should get done and when at a detail shop.

Thanks...

If you have the time to do it yourself it’s really not that hard to do, takes some practice but that will come to you easy. There are a couple of other sites that you can use for detail instructions, be side here

http://www.detailcity.org
http://autopia.org/

Should you need a good detailer instead these sites can be great for that sourcing as well

picus
01-19-2007, 01:02 PM
This might help, I put it up over at e90post but it applies, very much similar to what TOGWT wrote just my take on it.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41760

Totoland
01-19-2007, 04:53 PM
Definate newbie question. My first BMW is about to arrive. Black Sapphire E90. I live in the north-east and it will serve as my daily driver. What should I be doing right off the bat in terms of exterior care. Should I be heading straight from the dealer to a reputable detailer for a couple of coats of wax? Once the weather improves I plan on following a lot of the great guidance here for home detailing, just trying to figure out what I should get done and when at a detail shop.

Thanks...

TOGWT has given excellent advice. I recommend you print those instructions and follow them to the letter.

I detail BMW's every week exclusively and the biggest advice I can offer is extra care in car washing this time of year. Improper washing can result in damage such as this:

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Black%20BMW%20745/BlackBMW745_Scratches2.jpg

This 2004 came to the shop with only 46/k and the paint was *very* bad, to say the least. It took many hours to bring it back to the proper appearance.

Now, it looks like this:

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Black%20BMW%20745/BMW545i_Glazed_reflection.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Black%20BMW%20745/BMW545i_Glazed_frontpic.jpg

Correct washing will be critical until Spring. Then you can apply the proper steps to keep your finish swirl free and protected.

Totoland

jerrykdc
01-22-2007, 06:43 AM
I have the same color and my car is more than 3 years old with minimal swirls. You have to stay away from automatic car washes even if it means your car stays dirty. Then make sure you use a clean washing mitt to wash the car with and microfiber to dry it. It's the little dirt particles that cause the swirls so if you rub them against the surface the surface gets ugly. Wax is a waste of time - you need to use a good polish like Klasse AIO which lasts. When you decide to get serious about cleaning the surface you need to spend the time to use clay followed by a good polish - if there are swirls, then a swirl remover prior to polish. Best investment is a Porter Cable random orbital polisher - really simple to use and great results. Check out forums like Autopia.org.

Totoland
01-22-2007, 03:16 PM
I have the same color and my car is more than 3 years old with minimal swirls. You have to stay away from automatic car washes even if it means your car stays dirty. Then make sure you use a clean washing mitt to wash the car with and microfiber to dry it. It's the little dirt particles that cause the swirls so if you rub them against the surface the surface gets ugly. Wax is a waste of time - you need to use a good polish like Klasse AIO which lasts. When you decide to get serious about cleaning the surface you need to spend the time to use clay followed by a good polish - if there are swirls, then a swirl remover prior to polish. Best investment is a Porter Cable random orbital polisher - really simple to use and great results. Check out forums like Autopia.org.

Jerry: good points on everything except wax being a waste of time. I've used Klasse AIO hundreds of times and it's one of the best products out there. I "always" follow AIO with a final protection like Klasse Sealant or Wolfgang Sealant or Pinnacle Souveran.

I don't use it at the dealership because it has properties which don't do well in automotive reconditioning: namely, it dries white and that's a no-no. We use Meguiar's #26 for that very reason.

Good stuff anyway.

Totoland