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Leggs
02-28-2007, 05:42 PM
Hey folks I am back to get some info from you guys/ gals. I was looking over the topic of what oil to use from the results it seems to be 10w-60 pretty pricey I must say. So here is my ???? how many quarts does the M5 take? I plan to do the oil change at the hobby shop on base but wanted to know ahead how many quarts to purchase plus 1 extra for when the oil runs low. Hey does anyone recommend a oil filter as well?

Bruce
03-01-2007, 05:10 AM
10W60 is only required for early 00s. Check your owner's manual for recommended oil.

The M5 takes 6.9 quarts.

Don't buy any oil filter other than stock from the dealer- the price difference is not that great.

Leggs
03-03-2007, 03:21 PM
Ok well I wish I had check my mail before I went to the dealer cause I bough 9-quarts of 10w-60 and I did buy the filter from the dearler as well. Will the 10w-60 harm the engine or just over kill as for buying it. Also I didn't get a owners manual when I bough the car. I got a super deal on it because the mileage was 30k over then what an 02 should have so I figured hey if a M5 is all it is said to be then mileage shouldn't be an issue when you plan to keep the car as a collector for yourself.

Leggs
03-03-2007, 03:32 PM
Ok is there anything special I need to know before I head to the hobby shop to change this
oil? Is there any type of heat shield, or drip pan under the engin I need to remove as it is on my wifes 2000 MB?

Bruce
03-03-2007, 04:49 PM
there is a little door that covers the drain plug. Make sure you torque it correctly when you put it back on- the pan strips fairly easily.

One thing Ilike to do is take the filter out before going under the car- I think the oil drains better.

stika
03-04-2007, 09:00 PM
I've heard the pan strips easily also. Done it twice with no issues.

stika
03-06-2007, 09:43 PM
^^ (change the oil that is):D

Leggs
03-09-2007, 02:52 PM
Ok guys I just changed the oil on her and let me tell yeah it's 2X's as easy compared to my wife E320 wow. I tell yeah why do the Dearlers become the Stealers cause that is a shame to spend $140.00. Well since I had her heavy ass in the air I was looking at those 4
sensors 2 in front of the CAT and the 2 after the Cat what gives? I am planning on changing the MAF here soon so should I do the other 4 sensors? Also has anyone here ever experenced when you start your M5 up it makes 3 Beeps but yet nothing pops up on the info display:dunno:

stika
03-09-2007, 06:48 PM
The pre-cat sensors are the ones that you should worry about. They are the ones that tell the DME how the engine is runnig and make the necessary adjustments (ie. lean or rich). They're the only ones that most people change regularly. But doing the other 2 won't hurt either. Have you tried cleaning the MAFs yet?

Leggs
03-10-2007, 03:06 PM
No I have not yet did anything as for cleaning the MAF's as of yet. I am going to look at my online owners manual since I didn't get 1 with the purchase:cry: anyway going to see what the mileage I should get in town driving cause I think I am not getting the required mileage seems like I go from full to a half tank in a blink of an eye. Hell I think my 03 Navigator is getting better mileage :confused: and go figure I have yet to drive with the sports but on as well:confused:

stika
03-10-2007, 06:53 PM
M5(hp+tq)+heavy foot=low mpg :)

Cleaning the MAFS, changing plugs, replacing pre-cat sensors, and changing all filters should help raise your mpg. You're basically doing a tune-up.

Leggs
03-11-2007, 05:37 AM
Ok U mentioned the plugs come to think about it where are they located cause I have to have seen them and how hard are they to switch out should I run the stock plus or are there better ones on the market I can get???

stika
03-11-2007, 03:38 PM
They're baasically in the same place as most V8s. Except ours are covered. Remove the cover, take off and inspect each coil pack, change plugs, reverse. The back one on the driver's side is the worst one to get to. But if you remove both cabin filter housings, it'll be alot easier. Just be careful not to drop any hardware during disassembly, you'll hate yourself for it.

I think the stock ones are fine. Some have experienced problems with ones from the aftermarket.

Leggs
03-11-2007, 06:08 PM
Ok cool I got U. I just realized I used 10w-60 and I could have used 5w-30 am I going to do any engine damage?

stika
03-11-2007, 07:01 PM
Nah, I don't think it will. BUT, I wouldn't leave it in there.

FallbrookM5
03-20-2007, 02:51 PM
10W60 will be fine. Mine has a sticker in the engine compartment, that says 10W60 TWS is required. Mine drink a liters every 6-800 miles ! Ironic My M5 uses the cheap stuff..and actually doesnt use any. I drive them both like I stole them

stika
03-31-2007, 07:59 AM
Where are you guys getting your oil? I've been getting mine at the stealership but would rather get it online. That way I can just order it when I see it's time rather than making a trip. I haven't searched yet, but just thought about it while looking at threads and figured I'd ask the fellas. 10W60, BTW.

m5q8
04-17-2007, 11:38 PM
use 10w60 castrol RS in gulf I don't know the name other.
about the quarts :
1-drop the old oil.
2-change oil filter.
3-put first 6 and half quarts castrol oil .
4-open the key and turn engine on for 30 second.
5-turn engine off.
6-wait 1 min while oil go down.
7-open oil gage and check the two (-) one max up and the other min down .
8-if the oil under min you should add oil . and you should know between max and min only 1 litre.
9-you should not go over max it will harm engine.
10-add oil when you see check engine level oil .

important: sometimes you see the oil up max take off a min the oil will fill down,,,

mottati
04-19-2007, 04:59 PM
4-open the key and turn engine on for 30 second.
5-turn engine off.
6-wait 1 min while oil go down.
,

i don't think 30 seconds is enough time for the oil to get to operating temp. the manual and decal under thehood say check oil at normal operating temp, let idle for 10 sec, then wait at least one minute before checking.

mucho_cheapo
09-06-2007, 08:08 PM
Newbie here. I just bought a 2000 M5 from San Francisco and drove it to San Diego. I want to change my oil and there is a sticker in the engine compartment that says "Use Castrol 10W60 TWS. Called the local "Stealership" in SD and they quote me a price of $9 something per liter. I will spend approx. 60 bucks on oil alone and not counting the filter. Are there any option(s) like using Mobil 1 10W30, Castrol Syntec , or even Royal Purple Synthetic oils? Is it really a MUST that I use Castrol 10W60? Just trying to save a few bucks. I plan on doing most of the work on the car and I don't want to ruin the engine using the wrong oil viscosity. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

ProRail
09-06-2007, 08:18 PM
Ok well I wish I had check my mail before I went to the dealer cause I bough 9-quarts of 10w-60 and I did buy the filter from the dearler as well. Will the 10w-60 harm the engine or just over kill as for buying it. Also I didn't get a owners manual when I bough the car. I got a super deal on it because the mileage was 30k over then what an 02 should have so I figured hey if a M5 is all it is said to be then mileage shouldn't be an issue when you plan to keep the car as a collector for yourself.

Getting a BMW without a manual is like getting half a car. Download a manual ASAP and read it cover to cover. Then print it out and read it again with a highlighter in your hand. BMWs have an incredible array of features you will never find without a manual. Sorry to be anal about this, but you can't imagine all the amazing things they have built into these cars.

mottati
09-08-2007, 12:33 PM
Newbie here. I just bought a 2000 M5 from San Francisco and drove it to San Diego. I want to change my oil and there is a sticker in the engine compartment that says "Use Castrol 10W60 TWS. Called the local "Stealership" in SD and they quote me a price of $9 something per liter. I will spend approx. 60 bucks on oil alone and not counting the filter. Are there any option(s) like using Mobil 1 10W30, Castrol Syntec , or even Royal Purple Synthetic oils? Is it really a MUST that I use Castrol 10W60? Just trying to save a few bucks. I plan on doing most of the work on the car and I don't want to ruin the engine using the wrong oil viscosity. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

you and your family will experience horrific death if you do not use castrol tws.....

It's the best oil you will find for these cars (that goes for the OP who is worried about it, leave it in), you could experiment, some on M5board.com use mobil 1 15w50, others use different oils. On an early car (pre 3/00) you need a thicker oil due to it's piston ring design. Later cars can use any quality synthetic, but bmw longlife 5w30 is definately thicker than other 5/30's like mobil one. My used oil analyses show tws to be much better than other oils from a wear standpoint, so that is what i use, and i change it every 5-6k miles.
mike

mucho_cheapo
09-27-2007, 06:25 PM
Ok, I did the oil change last weekend and it's pretty simple. Use Castrol TSW 10W60 as specified on the decal even though my car is built 5/00 according to the data plate on the driver's door frame. Some people here claim that cars built after 3/00 can use 5W30 but I follow the engine decals recommended oil viscosity so I won't have any oil issues in the future.

One thing I noticed when I remove the drain plug is the presence of aluminum burrs on the plug threads indicating overtorquing of the drain plug. I fear the pan threads will eventually fail in the future. I managed to install the drain plug back in without a hitch but I need to find a permanent solution to fix this problem. I'm thinking of using an oversized drain plug, drilling the stripped pan threads and tapping new threads to match the oversized plug. Is there an oversize plug or drain plug kit available to address this issue? Maybe a helicoil to fix the stipped threads? It's seems to be a common problem on these cars. Anybody got an experience this matter and would like to share their knowledge?

Leggs
10-06-2007, 01:08 PM
AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL) delivers extraordinary lubrication in all types of automotive gasoline engines. By combining the industry premier synthetic technology with AMSOIL premium additives, AMSOIL ASL exceeds the higher performance demands of modern engines. It withstands the stress of higher horsepower, higher heat and complicated emission control systems. AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil consistently outperforms competitive conventional and synthetic motor oils. It delivers long-lasting performance and protection.

HERE IS THE LINK I GOT THAT FIRST PART OF INFO FROM;

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

mark_m5
11-02-2007, 11:54 AM
My mechanic uses Petrosynth. Swears by it. My car burns/loses Zero oil between changes. :D