View Full Version : My 1983 318i wont start
08-02-2007, 11:15 PM
Hello all, Im new here, only my second post, I think I put my first in the wrong forum.... ops :eeps:. Im having a problem with my 1983 318i, i'v had it for about 3 months and about 2 weeks ago it just wouldnt start, it wouldnt even turn over its engine it just "clicks". I had the battery replaced thinking that it was just an old battery and still nothing. After that I replaced the starter and fuses, Its still just "Clicking", so im realy stumped :dunno: on what i should look for next.... im not very car savy. If anyone has input that coild help me figure this out it would be great.
08-03-2007, 04:56 PM
I am having the same problem. It could be the ignition switch, neutral switch
08-26-2007, 03:41 PM
try starting it manualy, buy going in with a screw driver and taping the positive and negative post on the starter with the key ignition on "on", my unkels ford truck was doing the same thing and that worked.
09-21-2007, 12:16 PM
may be it's a self problme if it cant start
04-27-2010, 10:36 AM
i have a 1984 318i i received the car from a guy who let his kid change the oil, ran it w/out putting oil back in and seized the engine...bought a "new" engine for it, as well as a distributor, rotor, idle control valve, fuel pump (internal/external), fuel filter, starter, fan belts, and fuel pressure regulator.
k, so the Haynes/Chilton manuals go through test to run if your having problems with your car starting. ive already tested the fuel pumps, spark plugs, starter, and ignition coil, ignition control module, injection control module, fuel pump relay, throttle control (side on throttle butterfly), ecu, fuel injector resistance, and performed a continuity test based on a schematic wiring diagram i found specific to my car (ill upload later when i get a chance). ALL TESTS PAST ACCORDING TO HAYNES/CHILTON'S SPECIFICATIONS. the continuity check i performed passed, so i know there are no kinks or breaks in the wires. I will be running all of the tests again today and tomorrow, just for another go around.
so far the only part on my car i am missing is to the left of the air intake assembly; the Barometric pressure sensor. now some people say that not having this part wont matter, and that my car should start/run without it, others say that its the reason it wont stay running.
i was also using old gas in the car and a lot of people tried to say that was why it wouldn't stay running, but that doesn't seem possible to me.
Now when i turn the ignition on my car, it will start for a quick second, and then immediately die. i was told this is due to the cold start injector, so i know that works.
I have not performed a gas pressure test yet; didnt think i would need to since i bought 2 new fuel pumps, a filter, and a fuel pressure regulator, and the car started from the cold start so i assume that would mean i have the right pressure.
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.