DIY - Powerflex thrust arm bushings

[easyover]

Like many other E39 drivers I've been dealing with the steering wheel shimmy and clunk from the front end when going over bumps or potholes in the road. After doing all the research I was convinced it was the thrust arm bushings. Just looking at the design of the bushing and the geometry of the arm itself in the suspension was enough to convince me that the forces on this bushing can cause it to wear out in a relatively short period of time. My car has 77K miles, so I know it was due.

So the next question is what to do about it. The four factors for me in this decision were cost, time, effort, and end results. I'm less concerned about overall complexity as I have a fairly well equiped garage and plenty of mechanical experience (I am fairly new to BMW's, however).

I first considered replacing with complete stock thrust arms. Cost is moderate, however time and effort involved is considereable due to having to dismantle most of the front suspension. Results would be good, at least for awhile, until the stock bushing failed again. I wanted something better.

Next was arms with upgraded bushing from other models of BMW's or pressed in polyurethane bushings. These would certainly improve the end results, but cost would be more and effort would be the same as replacing with stock arm.

Next was just replacing the bushing in the arm already on the car. I liked this idea if:
A) I could replace the bushing without having to remove the thrust arm from the car
B) I could upgrade to a better than stock bushing

After ready all the DIY for thrust arm replacement online, thumbing through my Bentley's, and crawling around under my car a few times, and finding the Powerflex polyurethane bushings for our application, I convinced myself that the last option could be easily accomplished, and it was, in about 2 hrs. this last Sunday! I didn't even have to take off the tires!

Here's how I did it:


First thing is to get the front up in the air and on jackstands. Then remove the lower front inner fenderwell, brake duct, and thrust arm bushing cover.

Next remove the bolt through the thrust arm. It comes out easy with the front wheels pointing forward. The thrust arm will drop exposing the bushing with plenty of room to work. Next step is to press out old bushing. The key to this is having this $30 tool from Harbor Freight Tools. I bought for R/R of ball joints on Jeep front axles. It works well for pressing out bushings as well

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/bushtool.JPG

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/press2.JPG

The bushing pressed out fairly easily. Due to the width of the bushing and the depth of the press coller, I could only press the bushing out to with in about an 1/8" of the arm. I then simply supported the arm with the florr jack and used a pipe wrench on the bushing and with a slight twist it came right out.

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/almost_there.JPG

With the old bushing out, it was time to install the Powerflex bushing. I chose this bushing for several reasons:
1) Only $75 to do both front
2) Split design means it won't have to be pressed in, so it will be easy to install
3) Floating sleeve means I can tighten the through bolt down with the weight of the car off the front wheels and not have to worry about misalignment of the bushing like you would with a stock bushing or a polyurethane bushing with a fixed sleeve

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/poweflex.JPG

I assembled the bushing into the arm using liberal amount of marine grade white lithium grease. The bushing come with a small pack of a silicon based lubricant, but due to the limited amount that came with the bushings, the fact that I have had good luck with the lithium on poly bushings on my Jeeps for years, and that I have a whole tub of this stuff, I went with the lithium.

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/bush1.JPG

I know, my power steering lines are leaking!:rolleyes:
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/bush2.JPG

Repeat on other side, put all the plastic bits back on car, lower, and enjoy!!

Results:
All shimmy is gone! Front suspension feels the best since I've had the car. Much less road vibration through the wheel. I don't feel the brake vibration I used to. No clunk feel when I hit bumps. In conclusion, this has put the 'Ultimate' back into the 'Ultimate Driving Machine'.:thumbup:

Of course after my high of completing this job and being thrilled by the results, my rear passenger window regulator went out on me!:bawling:

[Brian McKinney]

all i have to say is wow wow wow..best DIY since CN90's coolant overhaul..thanks man I am saving this to my favorites as I have to do this soon

[chivas]

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've been looking for a bushing pressing tool for cheap to put in my hybrid bushing.

where did you get the powerflex? that's not bad of a price, i think...

[Brian McKinney]

HERE YA GO DAN... http://www.beastpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BMI&Product_Code=PF-BE39M-BUSH-501&Category_Code=powerflex

[chivas]

HERE YA GO DAN... http://www.beastpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BMI&Product_Code=PF-BE39M-BUSH-501&Category_Code=powerflex
thanks!!! i think my buddy Bill M about this... :)

[burt540]

Did you need to get an alignment after you did the job? Let me know. Thanks!

[KTrostel]

Let me start by saying THANKS! I need to undertake exactly this task and your solution to completely replacing the Thrust arms is outstanding.

Without having the two items in my hand I cannot be completely sure but the bearing press tool that you purchasd from Harbor Freight looks exactly like the items available for free from O'Reilly or AutoZone.

[easyover]

HERE YA GO DAN... http://www.beastpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BMI&Product_Code=PF-BE39M-BUSH-501&Category_Code=powerflex

Thanks! I guess it would have made sense to include somewhere to get the bushings! I got mine from here:

http://www.bimmerworld.com/

[easyover]

Did you need to get an alignment after you did the job? Let me know. Thanks!

No, I didn't do an alignment. However I can say that it tracks and steers better than with the old bushings.

In this picture you can see the different forces on the bushing have caused it to crack

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/oldbush.JPG

This bushing is designed to absorb side to side, up/down, as well as push/pull forces as well as isolate road vibration. With the minimal amount of material, its just asking too much!

[e39dream]

bookmarked. this should be a sticky.

[bmwm3coupe]

Thanks for sharing dude :D

Are you also going to do the control arm bushings as well?

[lufeco]

bookmarked. this should be a sticky.

+1

[tjh530i]

Which arm is this? It doesn't look like the other "arms" or the "bushing" people have replaced to eliminate the shimmy. Do you need to replace upper AND lower (4 arms?) to eliminate shimmy?

Sorry, I'm not a car guy but I would like to have mine replaced soon to eliminate shimmy and I need to know exactly what to have replaced.

Thanks!

[bmwm3coupe]

Which arm is this? It doesn't look like the other "arms" or the "bushing" people have replaced to eliminate the shimmy. Do you need to replace upper AND lower (4 arms?) to eliminate shimmy?

Sorry, I'm not a car guy but I would like to have mine replaced soon to eliminate shimmy and I need to know exactly what to have replaced.

Thanks!

Go to the link posted above : http://www.beastpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BMI&Product_Code=PF-BE39M-BUSH-501&Category_Code=powerflex

and look at the diagram which shows the 4 different parts available for the E39:
1) Thrust bushings (what was changed in this DIY)
2) Control Arm bushings (not changed in this DIY - but could also help eliminate/control noise/vibration - I am considering doing both)
3) Front sway bar bushings
4) Rear sway bar bushings

[tjh530i]

Thanks coupe! Sorry, I'm an idiot and still confused.

Is it this "control arm"?
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/128/controlarm1du8.th.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=controlarm1du8.jpg)

...or this "control arm"???
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9578/controlarm2lw4.th.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=controlarm2lw4.jpg)

Thanks!

[bmwm3coupe]

Look in here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DN63&mospid=47588&btnr=31_0264&hg=31&fg=05

The part is #5. The bushing replaced is #6

[bimmerd00d]

INteresting.

[easyover]

Another way to remove the bushing if you weren't to hip on forking out $30 bucks for the press tool is to drill out all the rubber with a drill and bit. Then use a hacksaw to gingerly cut the bushing shell in two places being extremely careful not to cut into the aluminum arm creating a stress riser that could cause the arm to fail under stress. I've used this method a few times removing bushings from leaf springs. It's time consuming and messy (not to mention the smell of burnt rubber), but it does work.

[easyover]

Thanks for sharing dude :D

Are you also going to do the control arm bushings as well?

Honestly, I really don't think you need to unless the rubber is actually spitting out the bushing shell. It is designed very differently and receives different loads than the thrust arm. It is solid rubber all the way around, where as the thrust arm bushing has voids with bumpers that allow a significant amount of movement. This movement over time is what eventually just wears this bushing out.

When I get around to doing springs and struts sometime next year, I might consider doing the polyurethane bushings for the control arms and swaybar mounts at that time.

Trust me, just doing the thrust arms poly will have you saying to yourself "Why didn't I do this a long time ago"?

[chivas]

bookmarked. this should be a sticky.
he should add this to the FAQ!!

[tomibriggs]

Great job! :beerchug:

For those who are only willing to spend half of the cost of the tool, check out what this guy from the other forum came up with from items that can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=566232&page=2

1 - 1 foot piece of 1/2" - 13 all thread,

1 - 2.5" Black Iron theaded coupling (in lieu of the pvc conduit). It is the absolute perfect inside diameter to push the bushing and sleeve through and I was more confident it would not warp under pressure.

1 - 2.5" sill plate bushing (found in the Joist Hanger section) at the back of the coupling as the backing plate

1 - 3/4" washer (that's the size of the hole, not the Outside Diameter) as the ram for pressing out the rubber bushing.

1 - 1" washer (again, size of the hole, not the O.D) These are almost exactly the size of the metal sleeve, just take the time to line it up precisely before cranking away.

2 - 1/2" washers to turn the nuts against

4 - 1/2"-13 nuts.

Total cost = $14.79

[facedon]

Look in here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DN63&mospid=47588&btnr=31_0264&hg=31&fg=05

The part is #5. The bushing replaced is #6

For clarification, the part described fits into the Traction Strut. On my 530i, the corresponding part is called the Tension Strut. I am assuming these parts are indeed the same thing (or rather, perform the same function)?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT63&mospid=47587&btnr=31_0617&hg=31&fg=05

[bmwm3coupe]

For clarification, the part described fits into the Traction Strut. On my 530i, the corresponding part is called the Tension Strut. I am assuming these parts are indeed the same thing (or rather, perform the same function)?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT63&mospid=47587&btnr=31_0617&hg=31&fg=05


Yep, there are of course differences between the various E39 models, but yes, they perform the same function :D

[tms0425]

I don't have a shimmy or a clunk that I know of, but I have "chirping" in the front end whenever I go over expansion joints at 25-30mph or so.

Could the "chirp" be related to this somehow or is that some other suspension problem?

GREAT DIY by the way - thank you!

Tom

[bmwm3coupe]

I don't have a shimmy or a clunk that I know of, but I have "chirping" in the front end whenever I go over expansion joints at 25-30mph or so.

Could the "chirp" be related to this somehow or is that some other suspension problem?

GREAT DIY by the way - thank you!

Tom
Tom,

That is a tough one to "diagnose" from a comfy chair here in Texas!. You probably need/want a good BMW independent to help you diagnose that one as the last thing you want to do is to start changing parts blind and hope that something fixes the problem :yikes:

[doru]

This DIY should be a sticky

[MatWiz]

Thanks coupe! Sorry, I'm an idiot and still confused.

Is it this "control arm"?
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/128/controlarm1du8.th.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=controlarm1du8.jpg)

...or this "control arm"???
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9578/controlarm2lw4.th.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=controlarm2lw4.jpg)

Thanks!

It's the first photo. (Also called upper control arm).

[MatWiz]

Good job Easyover! :thumbup:

I just replaced my bushings a couple of months ago. Had I known this, I would do as you did instead of putting the OEM.

REALLY good tread! :thumbup::thumbup:

[tjh530i]

Thanks for the clarification Matwiz!

[tjh530i]

Good job Easyover! :thumbup:

I just replaced my bushings a couple of months ago. Had I known this, I would do as you did instead of putting the OEM.

REALLY good tread! :thumbup::thumbup:

So, did you have a shimmy? And did replacing with OEM bushings solve it? Thanks.

[antgli]

Easyover...thanks for excellent DIY write up :thumbup:! It looks like I'm going to go this route. Any update since the install? Thanks again :)!

[MatWiz]

So, did you have a shimmy? And did replacing with OEM bushings solve it? Thanks.

No, I didn't have shimmy. I just had some loose feel of the suspension. I replaced the front bushing, one rear bushing, and all sway bars links. The car felt much tighter after that. They were just worn out and it was time to replace. You can't DIY the OEM front bushings, because you need a press to put them in. The way Easyover did it, you can do it yourself because you don't need to use a press. You can install the Poweflex bushings by hands.

[tms0425]

Tom,

That is a tough one to "diagnose" from a comfy chair here in Texas!. You probably need/want a good BMW independent to help you diagnose that one as the last thing you want to do is to start changing parts blind and hope that something fixes the problem :yikes:Sorry if I'm a little OT. You're absolutely right. I've complained about it 3 times to the stealers and they just kind of shrug and say that'll be another $90 for a diagnostic hour (diagnosing nothing, which I won't pay for). Yes, need a good Indie but don't have one here I know of. I'm going to do another inspection underneath this weekend and see if anything looks obviously broken up front. Tom

[ravve]

No, I didn't do an alignment. However I can say that it tracks and steers better than with the old bushings.

In this picture you can see the different forces on the bushing have caused it to crack

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/oldbush.JPG

This bushing is designed to absorb side to side, up/down, as well as push/pull forces as well as isolate road vibration. With the minimal amount of material, its just asking too much!

Whats the diameter of this bushing? I cant find a good tool for this nearby (Sweden) so I'll have to find out a way to push/pull is out from the arm.

[jonmcc]

this thread is awesome, thanks for the info/diy easyover. I just ordered the thrust arm and control arm kits from beastpower. they are all backordered on bimmerworld, and I suspect this thread may be to blame :)

[jonmcc]

.

(sorry, stupid pos laptop :rolleyes:)

[easyover]

I couldn't be more pleased with the results!

I've only put 6K miles on this car since I bought it last April. Since replacing the stock thrust arm bushings with urethane, the car rides, handles, and brakes better.
I think the steering feedback I was getting with the stock worn out bushings was having an affect on the way I was driving the car. I don't like the feeling of 'loose' suspension components when going over bumps, so I would take it easy through intersections. I hated the steering wheel shimmy and brake vibration when braking, so I would brake really conservatively. I feel like now I can drive the car the way I want to!
I'm sure you'll get the same results if replacing with stock bushing/thrust arms. But you'll be doing it again at 50K+ miles. With the urethane, the job is done for good!

[bmwm3coupe]

With the urethane, the job is done for good!

That is how I see it as well. Do it once, do it right, end of story!

[PJB.]

Has anyone who's done this experienced the harsher ride that is sometimes associated with the urethane bushings?

[easyover]

Has anyone who's done this experienced the harsher ride that is sometimes associated with the urethane bushings?

I think the fact that the whole front and rear suspensions are sub assemblies attached to the unibody via rubber mounts helps make the urethane bushings in the suspension a none issue. There seems to be plenty of isolation of vibrations.

Now, I wouldn't recommend using urethane bushing for motor or tranny mounts, as I'm sure those would allow vibrations into the cabin.

[bmwm3coupe]

Has anyone who's done this experienced the harsher ride that is sometimes associated with the urethane bushings?

I haven't yet, but folks at Roadfly that have done it already comment that there is in fact more "feedback" after using these bushings; that the factory/OEM softer bushings do provide more "isolation". None said they hated it, so my guess from reading their comments is that it can't be that bad. Also, it is probably progressive: the more of them you change (trust arm, control arm, sway bars, etc.), the more feedback you would get :D

I am actually curious about this effect, but I am going forward with the replacements in the next couple of weeks :p

[Eddie Bimmer]

3 jaw puller (http://www.amazon.com/Ton-Capacity-Way2-Reversible-Puller/dp/B000GHZUZ2/ref=sr_1_17/105-3622458-4030007?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1191986598&sr=1-17) would do fine, don't you think?

[MatWiz]

I couldn't be more pleased with the results!

I've only put 6K miles on this car since I bought it last April. Since replacing the stock thrust arm bushings with urethane, the car rides, handles, and brakes better.
I think the steering feedback I was getting with the stock worn out bushings was having an affect on the way I was driving the car. I don't like the feeling of 'loose' suspension components when going over bumps, so I would take it easy through intersections. I hated the steering wheel shimmy and brake vibration when braking, so I would brake really conservatively. I feel like now I can drive the car the way I want to!
I'm sure you'll get the same results if replacing with stock bushing/thrust arms. But you'll be doing it again at 50K+ miles. With the urethane, the job is done for good!

My only concern will be that installing these will move the 'weak point' to another part.

I would still do it, though!

[tomibriggs]

I am definitely doing this soon. In my experience, stuffing the stock bushing with polyurethane already made a huge difference:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209875

I'm sure switching to Powerflex will improve the handling even better.

[chivas]

3 jaw puller (http://www.amazon.com/Ton-Capacity-Way2-Reversible-Puller/dp/B000GHZUZ2/ref=sr_1_17/105-3622458-4030007?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1191986598&sr=1-17) would do fine, don't you think?
i think it might damage the sleeve getting it back in.

[PJB.]

Has anyone who's done this experienced the harsher ride that is sometimes associated with the urethane bushings?

I haven't yet, but folks at Roadfly that have done it already comment that there is in fact more "feedback" after using these bushings; that the factory/OEM softer bushings do provide more "isolation". None said they hated it, so my guess from reading their comments is that it can't be that bad. Also, it is probably progressive: the more of them you change (trust arm, control arm, sway bars, etc.), the more feedback you would get :D

I am actually curious about this effect, but I am going forward with the replacements in the next couple of weeks :p

Keep us updated, bmwm3coupe. If it's more of a small "feedback" as opposed to an all out harsher ride, I'm in. I'd like to replace my bushings, but OEM is relatively expensive and non-permanent. If this alternative still maintains most of the smoothness of the ride, it's great news.

[easyover]

Keep us updated, bmwm3coupe. If it's more of a small "feedback" as opposed to an all out harsher ride, I'm in. I'd like to replace my bushings, but OEM is relatively expensive and non-permanent. If this alternative still maintains most of the smoothness of the ride, it's great news.

I stand nothing to gain by passing on false information. I know this is the web and sometimes results can be embelished. I'm not that type of person.

Before embarking on this fix, mod, whatever you want to catagorize it, I was suffering the same handling, ride, braking, shimmy problems that many other E39ers were having. This fixed it, period. I have noticed no side affects. Granted my baseline comparison was stock bushings with 72K miles on them. It rides as smooth as glass now. Take it (or leave it) for what it's worth.......

[PJB.]

I stand nothing to gain by passing on false information. I know this is the web and sometimes results can be embelished. I'm not that type of person.

Before embarking on this fix, mod, whatever you want to catagorize it, I was suffering the same handling, ride, braking, shimmy problems that many other E39ers were having. This fixed it, period. I have noticed no side affects. Granted my baseline comparison was stock bushings with 72K miles on them. It rides as smooth as glass now. Take it (or leave it) for what it's worth.......

Good point easyover. I bought my car at 93,000 miles so I too have no fresh baseline for comparison. I don't have any shimmy, but at 118,000 miles my suspension is looser than a crackhead's hair weave. I'm saving up for a suspension overhaul, but if I can take care of these bushings for about a hundo as opposed to a couple hundo, than that's just money saved!

[Eddie Bimmer]

.

[540ig5]

Can someone clear up one thing for me. The tool described in the writeup used to push out the old bushing, will it work for a 540 arm or i might run into difficulty. Thanks.

[easyover]

at 118,000 miles my suspension is looser than a crackhead's hair weave.

Now that is funny right there, I don't care who ya are!!

I'm saving up for a suspension overhaul, but if I can take care of these bushings for about a hundo as opposed to a couple hundo, than that's just money saved!

Another benefit if these bushings is that they can be easily removed and reinstalled on another arm so when you do your suspension overhaul, you will be able to reuse these bushings.

[easyover]

Can someone clear up one thing for me. The tool described in the writeup used to push out the old bushing, will it work for a 540 arm or i might run into difficulty. Thanks.

This tool is just a universal ball joint, u-joint, and brake pin (big rigs) press tool. I just so happened to have one that I use on my Jeep junk. I can't see why it wouldn't work on the V8 arms, but I haven't tried either.

This fellow on another site came up with a very good way of doing it as well using parts obtainable at the harware store.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=566232&page=2

Another even cheaper, albeit more labor intensive and messy way is to drill out all the rubber and use a hacksaw to cut the bushing shell in a couple places.

[chivas]

Can someone clear up one thing for me. The tool described in the writeup used to push out the old bushing, will it work for a 540 arm or i might run into difficulty. Thanks.
i bought this tool and it's here. if you want to get yours done, PM me. i'm thinking about doing mine with my hybrid bushing.

[chivas]

Good point easyover. I bought my car at 93,000 miles so I too have no fresh baseline for comparison. I don't have any shimmy, but at 118,000 miles my suspension is looser than a crackhead's hair weave. I'm saving up for a suspension overhaul, but if I can take care of these bushings for about a hundo as opposed to a couple hundo, than that's just money saved!

FEBI are the only arms i know they make that does not come with bushings. Lemmy and Meyles all do.

[tomibriggs]

Another benefit if these bushings is that they can be easily removed and reinstalled on another arm so when you do your suspension overhaul, you will be able to reuse these bushings.

This is exactly what sold me the idea.

I'm not sure if my balljoints are still ok but if it turns out that they need to be replaced as well, I can easily move these Powerflex bushings to a new control arm with new balljoints.

[facedon]

My Powerflex bushings arrived in the mail, and unexpected had some metal disks in it, somewhat like shims. I didn't see these parts in the DIY. Does anyone know how these are to be installed?

Thanks.

[mmm635]

My Powerflex bushings arrived in the mail, and unexpected had some metal disks in it, somewhat like shims. I didn't see these parts in the DIY. Does anyone know how these are to be installed?

Thanks.

Yes, they are to be installed on the outside of the bushings. I asked the same question because the washers did not come with the bushings for my M3 when I installed them. So, I called Bimmerworld and asked them for the info on where to locate them in the assembly.

[facedon]

The picture that easyover posted didn't show that in the 'installed' picture. Does that mean he neglected to put it on, and should do it?

[easyover]

The picture that easyover posted didn't show that in the 'installed' picture. Does that mean he neglected to put it on, and should do it?

Interesting. Mine did not come with any "shims", nor was there any clearance for shims.

Here's the contents of the part number that I ordered (from Beastmasters website)

http://www.beastpower.com/products/powerflex/powerflex-501-4.jpg

I'm guessing there was a change in the design or possibly you ordered the wrong P/N?

[bmwm3coupe]

Well, at least you got yours. Thanks to this thread, they are back-ordered, so I will have to wait at least several more weeks before I get mine :cry:

[mmm635]

Interesting. Mine did not come with any "shims", nor was there any clearance for shims.

Here's the contents of the part number that I ordered (from Beastmasters website)



I'm guessing there was a change in the design or possibly you ordered the wrong P/N?

How long ago did you order your bushings? My set, ordered about 3 weeks ago, comes with the oversized washers. Additionally, my bushings are black. My guess is that they have changed the design recently and there may be some of the older versions out there.

I have read in other threads that the PF bushings have had some failure/squeaks. I did not have these problems on my M3. I think there are very few cases and there can be many reasons for this to occur. I really think that much of what I read was just "internet talk" and not much data to back up a high failure rate with these bushings. I tracked my M3 and never had a problem with the PF bushings or heard any squeaks.

However, Powerflex may have changed the design from just a few complaints and might have added the washers for extra support on the bushing. The interface between the mounting point and the bushing may have been a weak point (point load) when it is repeatedly acted on with the tremendous forces it has to deal with. The washers, from what I can gather, have been included to help distribute this point load throughout more of the bushing helping to reduce the rate of deterioration. Just a guess.

[tomibriggs]

P/N for the 528 & 540 are different

[facedon]

Interesting. Mine did not come with any "shims", nor was there any clearance for shims.

Here's the contents of the part number that I ordered (from Beastmasters website)

http://www.beastpower.com/products/powerflex/powerflex-501-4.jpg

I'm guessing there was a change in the design or possibly you ordered the wrong P/N?

The ones I got were black. I wasn't sure about what part number, since there are two varieties, one with suffix 501 and the other with suffix 510. The word was that models from the 535 to the 540 (the 535 wasn't sold in the US) uses the 501 and the 510 is used on every other one. I got mine from Powerflex USA, which is really bimmerworld in disguise. The price is/was cheaper if ordered from the Powerflex website.

[Beau6183]

Gonna try this on my 540iA when the bushings are delivered. I was really torn between doing just the bushings (cheap) or getting a full suspension kit from FCP Groton for cheap -- and after the reviews I read of FCP I will not be going with them.

[easyover]

The ones I got were black. I wasn't sure about what part number, since there are two varieties, one with suffix 501 and the other with suffix 510. The word was that models from the 535 to the 540 (the 535 wasn't sold in the US) uses the 501 and the 510 is used on every other one. I got mine from Powerflex USA, which is really bimmerworld in disguise. The price is/was cheaper if ordered from the Powerflex website.

I ordered mine (510) from Powerflex USA as well and they showed up in a bimmerworld shipping box. Actual carton for the parts was Powerflex. Mine are black as well. The pic of the blue ones I got off beastpower site, but if you go back to the DIY part of the thread, you can see that they are black.

I wonder if the shims are optional if there is a gap between the mount and bushing. Mine were zero clearance and had to be lightly tapped into place.

[easyover]

How long ago did you order your bushings? My set, ordered about 3 weeks ago, comes with the oversized washers. Additionally, my bushings are black. My guess is that they have changed the design recently and there may be some of the older versions out there.



Ordered mine about three weeks ago as well. I installed them on 9/31.

[facedon]

I am going to assume there was a part change that caused the shims to be added. As one person said earlier, possibly it is for stability. When I do install it, I will be sure to try and get the shims in along with the bushings.

About how long did the total job take? (pardon me if you stated this already)

[easyover]

I am going to assume there was a part change that caused the shims to be added. As one person said earlier, possibly it is for stability. When I do install it, I will be sure to try and get the shims in along with the bushings.

About how long did the total job take? (pardon me if you stated this already)

About 2 hrs., maybe a little less.

[Ågent99]

bump

[facedon]

bump

Thanks!

[facedon]

Well, I set about to do my two hour task of changing both bushings and wasn't as fortunate as I hoped to be. Though I bought the tool to push out the bushing it didn't quite work for me... Seems when easyover said they came out quite easily, that didn't apply to everyone. Mine simply didn't move initially. Eventually I got some movement, but it turns out that only the rubber inside the bushing moved, leaving the metal intact. The rubber didn't event come out all the way. I ended up having to cut it out using a jigsaw and cut off blade. Though I eventually got it out after about 5 hours, I ended up causing damage to the arm itself. Not significant, but I am leaning towards changing it sometime soon. I need to take a break before I work on the other side.

Are there brands of thrust arms that I can purchase without a bushing? I would rather not pay for something that I might spend hours removing to throw away.

[Eddie Bimmer]

PN: 31121141718

item #4 on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT53&mospid=47587&btnr=31_0617&hg=31&fg=05

[chivas]

Well, I set about to do my two hour task of changing both bushings and wasn't as fortunate as I hoped to be. Though I bought the tool to push out the bushing it didn't quite work for me... Seems when easyover said they came out quite easily, that didn't apply to everyone. Mine simply didn't move initially. Eventually I got some movement, but it turns out that only the rubber inside the bushing moved, leaving the metal intact. The rubber didn't event come out all the way. I ended up having to cut it out using a jigsaw and cut off blade. Though I eventually got it out after about 5 hours, I ended up causing damage to the arm itself. Not significant, but I am leaning towards changing it sometime soon. I need to take a break before I work on the other side.

Are there brands of thrust arms that I can purchase without a bushing? I would rather not pay for something that I might spend hours removing to throw away.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2711839&postcount=54

[Jase007]

Great thread.

I ordered a set of thrust arm bushings and control arm bushings for my 528iT to replace the OEM ones in my recently replaced thrust arms and control arms. I did buy the FCP kit and so far it has worked out nicely. I know the thrust arm bushings will deteriorate quickly though ... (I'm guessing 30K max miles)

I have PF control arm bushings and rear subframe bushings on my iX for 20,000+ miles and the handling / feedback was night and day compared to stock. With an E30 you also have the option of going with OEM solid, E30 M3 offset and other non-poly options. I went with centered [non offset] PF control arm bushings and have never looked back. There wasn't any significant additional NVH from adding these control arm and rear subframe bushings to the E30.

I suspect that these bushings for the E39 will also dramatically improve suspension tightness [braking, acceleration, turn-in, etc...] b/c of the design / reliance on the thrust arm to control more varied directional forces than say ... the E30 control arms.

Point of my post ... have used PF for years on E30, have held up well to "spirited" street use and occasional DE track time. Will be replacing the OE bushes in my new thrust/ & control arms. Great DIY post. :)

[facedon]

All done with the change. The second bushing was not pressed out with the tool either, requiring me instead to drill and cut it out. This time it took a little less time however.

The results are as expected. My 45-60 shimmy is gone and I have a little more confidence in braking. I still have an extremely slight vibration at high speeds.

Overall, I am very pleased with the results.

[bamajets]

I have just replaced my Thrust Arm Bushings with the Poweflex Polys on my 1998 540i. I just got the car a month ago with 141K miles and the front end had the shimmy and felt loose.

The first one took 6 hours! I had trouble getting the bushing screw out completely without having to remove/loosen other suspension parts. We had to make a couple of runs to Lowe's to get tools to complete the job. We pressed the rubber out with a home-built comtraption similar to the ones in this thread, using 2.5" ID Conduit and a large socket for the pressing. The second one took only an hour, as I realized I could remove the bushing screw if I gently jacked up a suspension component that was barely in the way. This works much better if the wheels are straight (a mistake learned on the first one). BTW, my OEM bushings were cracked slightly, but not as bad as the previous pictures.

Results? Well, the steering is definitely tighter and turns great! The downside is that the shimmy is still there at about 75mph. (was previously prominent at lower speeds) Perhaps something else like a wheel balancing is needed. Also, the ride is definitely stiffer with more road feel. It's not bad to me usually, but on certain rough roads the bump absorbing is not as much as I would like. Overall, a definite improvement.

-Dan

[dmbmw530]

Did anyone observe that the assembled bushing is smaller than the original part? After I tightened the bushing to OE specs (110 NM) I noticed that the holes on the thrust arm cover don't line up with the holder. It seems like the holder bent under presure to take form of the smaller bushing. Do you tightrn it all the way? Can the bushing move in the sleve once tightened? Please let me know your observations - I have a 01 530i (i think similar to facedon) but I think it's the same on the 528.

thanks.

[tomibriggs]

I just received my powerflex bushing I ordered since Oct. 2.

I am still working on pressing the old bushings out. I was able to loan the press kit from Autozone but the diameter of receiving tube is either slightly too wide or too small that's why I'm having a bit of hard time. I might try the jaw puller that this guy used on this link - http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/thrust_arm_bushings_procedure.htm

Did anyone observe that the assembled bushing is smaller than the original part? After I tightened the bushing to OE specs (110 NM) I noticed that the holes on the thrust arm cover don't line up with the holder. It seems like the holder bent under presure to take form of the smaller bushing. Do you tightrn it all the way? Can the bushing move in the sleve once tightened? Please let me know your observations - I have a 01 530i (i think similar to facedon) but I think it's the same on the 528.

thanks.

According to the same write-up, the torque spec of the bushing bolt is suppose to be 81 foot pounds. You may have over tightened the bolt that's why it bent.

[bmwm3coupe]

I just received my front bushings that were back ordered. If not tomorrow, I will install them by the following weekend :D

[dmbmw530]

I just received my powerflex bushing I ordered since Oct. 2.
According to the same write-up, the torque spec of the bushing bolt is suppose to be 81 foot pounds. You may have over tightened the bolt that's why it bent.


81 foot pounds = 110 Nm and it is the spec according to Bentley manual. This setting did however over tighten the housing and bent it slightly. So I'm not sure what to make of it and whether it is OK to drive.

Anyone that did finish theirs - did you use a torque wrench to tighten according to these specs, and if so did you experience the same problem?

thanks.

[540ig5]

Just got mine done and let me tell you***8230; WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS. Whole thing took about 6 hours, the old bushings just would not come out, plus taking the bolt in and out on a 540i (while trying to alight the holes) isn***8217;t that much fun either. But well worth the effort. My advice, make sure you have a ***8220;supercharged***8221; air gun, cuz it seems that it takes that much force to push the old bushings metal sleeve out.

[tomibriggs]

Just got mine done and let me tell you…. WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS. Whole thing took about 6 hours, the old bushings just would not come out, plus taking the bolt in and out on a 540i (while trying to alight the holes) isn't that much fun either. But well worth the effort. My advice, make sure you have a "supercharged" air gun, cuz it seems that it takes that much force to push the old bushings metal sleeve out.

I agree. I gave up after 2 hours considering the bushings on my 528i are located towards the front of the car unlike the 540. :bawling: The old bushings are pressed in the control arms pretty tight. I went to Home Depot to pick up a sleeve/tube with a diameter that measures exactly the same as the whole of the control arm. Hopefully it works. Pressing out the old bushings is so much harder than described on this thread. :thumbdwn:

[tomibriggs]

81 foot pounds = 110 Nm and it is the spec according to Bentley manual. This setting did however over tighten the housing and bent it slightly. So I'm not sure what to make of it and whether it is OK to drive.

You're right about the torque spec. Do you think the Powerflex bushings kit we received is suppose to come with 2 washers on each side to fill in the gap that caused the bracket to bend? :dunno:

[540ig5]

I agree. I gave up after 2 hours considering the bushings on my 528i are located towards the front of the car unlike the 540. :bawling: The old bushings are pressed in the control arms pretty tight. I went to Home Depot to pick up a sleeve/tube with a diameter that measures exactly the same as the whole of the control arm. Hopefully it works. Pressing out the old bushings is so much harder than described on this thread. :thumbdwn:

My suggestion (I thought of this after I was done) is to take off the whole arm and work on pushing out the bushing on a work bench, in a vice or something of that sort. The time it takes you to take the whole thing off will save you 3 hours at the end of the day.

[540ig5]

You're right about the torque spec. Do you think the Powerflex bushings kit we received is suppose to come with 2 washers on each side to fill in the gap that caused the bracket to bend? :dunno:

I had the 2 washers included in the kit for my 540i. I don’t think torque matters at all for this mod. There is a metal sleeve that goes through the bushing, so no matter how hard you tighten the bolt it WILL stop once the subframe “flaps” clamp down and “hit” the sleeve from both sides. In the OEM setup the bushing doesn’t have this peace (or it does but not as strong, can’t remember now) so to much torque will deform the bushing.

[dmbmw530]

I had the 2 washers included in the kit for my 540i. I don’t think torque matters at all for this mod. There is a metal sleeve that goes through the bushing, so no matter how hard you tighten the bolt it WILL stop once the subframe “flaps” clamp down and “hit” the sleeve from both sides. In the OEM setup the bushing doesn’t have this peace (or it does but not as strong, can’t remember now) so to much torque will deform the bushing.

I did not have the metal washers. Mine is for a 530, so i guess it's different. The weird thing I noticed is that the metal sleeve did not fully cover the entire length of the bushings. So I guess while tightening them it kept going and bending the holder. I spent a full day just on the one bushing - trying to press it out, and at the end bent the holder :cry:

[dmbmw530]

From what I read, it seems like a lot of people are having a hard time pressing out these bushings. I spent almost a full day trying to press one out. Tomibriggs in a few posts above pointed to this link: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/thrust_arm_bushings_procedure.htm

I highly recommend having a read - I wish I came across this site before attempting this procedure. The press sleeves talked about in the article could be ordered from a BMW dealership or http://www.bmwautopartsdealer.com (a real dealership that sells at a slight discount). The press sleeves themselves could be bought for $11.99 for a 6 cyl or $24.23 for an 8 cyl. If you want the complete set, for an 6 cyl it would cost $30.39 and $41.65 for a 8 cyl. I did find a slight discrepancy in the bmw part numbers listed in the article. The correct part numbers for the press sleeves are:
6-cyl: 90-88-6-312-272
8-cyl: 90-88-6-312-263

The puller tool to press out the bushings can be rented @ autozone or pepboys.

After doing this job, an exact size of the press sleeve is extremely important. If the one you use is off by a couple mm in diameter you'll be screwed (as I and seems like several people here were) and be forced to using jigsaws, drills, etc. to take the old bushings out and risk damaging the thrust arm itself.

I don't want to sound like I'm advertising bmw tools and a different method (maybe what easyover mentions works wonderfully on a 540) but the site provides a great deal of extra information.

[540ig5]

The biggest problem I ran into is not having a tool powerful enough to push the sleeve out. I had to work with a snap-on cordless impact wrench, so maybe having a higher-powered air gun would have solved all my problems. For those who plan to do this DIY following the original method with the tool from harbor freight, here are a few tips. First, push the sleeve to one side. To do this use the large sleeve included in the kit and on the other side use any kind of metal plate (aprox 3 inch by 3 inch). You have to do this as the metal U in the tool is not wide enough and also it***8217;s easier to line up the metal plate to the metal sleeve getting pushed out. Once you have all the peaces set up, push the sleeve all the way until it is flush with the control arm. Next take the ***8220;U setup***8221; off, and use pliers or an adjustable wrench to bend the sleeve inwards (do this all around the circumference of the sleeve). The metal is pretty thin so it shouldn***8217;t be hard to bed. Doing this will give you a much greater area against which the sleeve could be pushed (without doing this you only have the thickness of the sleeve to push against, which is about 2mm). Once you have the sleeve bent in, set up the press tool to push out the sleeve the opposite way then you did it before. At first use the same steel plate to start pushing the sleeve, once you get it flush with the control arm, use the medium sleeve included in the press kit to push it out the rest of the way. You will be able to use the medium sleeve without having it go inside the control arm because the sleeve getting pushed out has the ***8220;flaps***8221; pulled in. I know I just wrote a whole bunch of steps, but in my opinion this is the easies and fastest way of doing this DIY, just make sure you have a powerful air gun that would have enough force to do the pushing.
One other thing I forgot to mention is that before you proceed to bend in the sleeve, you have to remove the rubber out of it, just push it out using the press and then cut out the rest of it.

[easyover]

I'm kinda surprised that this is pitching a fit for so many folks. The tool I used pressed out the stock bushing relatively easily.

After rereading my post, There were only a couple things that I realized I left out.

One was that I had to use a piece of steel flat stock on the pushing side of the "C" press to get the bushing flush with the arm. This gave me enough room to add the collar that pushed the bushing until it bottomed out into the receiving collar.

The other was that I used the floor jack as an adjustable "bench" to support the "C" press as I aligned everything as I began turning the press screw.

I certainly hope I didn't mislead anyone into this being an overly simplistic job. I didn't find it that difficult with the proper tools.

[tomibriggs]

My suggestion (I thought of this after I was done) is to take off the whole arm and work on pushing out the bushing on a work bench, in a vice or something of that sort. The time it takes you to take the whole thing off will save you 3 hours at the end of the day.

I guess you're right. The thing is, you need the ball joint tool to remove the whole arm which is exactly what I am trying to avoid that's why I went for this idea.

[tomibriggs]

From what I read, it seems like a lot of people are having a hard time pressing out these bushings. I spent almost a full day trying to press one out. Tomibriggs in a few posts above pointed to this link: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/thrust_arm_bushings_procedure.htm

I highly recommend having a read - I wish I came across this site before attempting this procedure. The press sleeves talked about in the article could be ordered from a BMW dealership or http://www.bmwautopartsdealer.com (a real dealership that sells at a slight discount). The press sleeves themselves could be bought for $11.99 for a 6 cyl or $24.23 for an 8 cyl. If you want the complete set, for an 6 cyl it would cost $30.39 and $41.65 for a 8 cyl. I did find a slight discrepancy in the bmw part numbers listed in the article. The correct part numbers for the press sleeves are:
6-cyl: 90-88-6-312-272
8-cyl: 90-88-6-312-263

The puller tool to press out the bushings can be rented @ autozone or pepboys.

After doing this job, an exact size of the press sleeve is extremely important. If the one you use is off by a couple mm in diameter you'll be screwed (as I and seems like several people here were) and be forced to using jigsaws, drills, etc. to take the old bushings out and risk damaging the thrust arm itself.

I loaned the puller tool from Autozone as a back up but realized that it will not work by itself or with out that BMW tool/sleeve.

I did find out though that a short 2" pipe from the plumbing section of Home Depot serves a perfect receiving sleeve for the press kit because its inside diameter is very slightly larger than the bushings sleeve. Still, this did not do the job for me. I simply could not push out those darn bushings...atleast while the control arm is attached to the car.

My biggest disappointment now is that I cannot drive my car until I figure out another way to replace the bushings with the Powerflex ones or re-torque the old ones back to spec since it requires a complicated procedure involving proper weight distrubution not to mention my car is lowered so there is no way I can get underneath to re-torque bushing while the car is on the ground with load. This is the same reason why I really want these Powerflex bushings that don't require torquing under load.

If I have to remove the whole arm which requires purchasing a ball joint tool, I might as well replace it with a new arm with a new balljoint. So if anyone knows where I can order a pair of control arms without bushings, please point me to the right direction.

I don't mean to discourage anyone from doing this job that easyover was successful in doing but just be prepared to finish the job because once you dismount the bushing end of the control arm, there is not turning back.

BTW, I am pleased to discover upon dismounting the bushing end of the arm that my polyurethane stuffed bushings are still solid - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209875

[dmbmw530]

I loaned the puller tool from Autozone as a back up but realized that it will not work by itself or with out that BMW tool/sleeve.

I did find out though that a short 2" pipe from the plumbing section of Home Depot serves a perfect receiving sleeve for the press kit because its inside diameter is very slightly larger than the bushings sleeve. Still, this did not do the job for me. I simply could not push out those darn bushings...atleast while the control arm is attached to the car.

My biggest disappointment now is that I cannot drive my car until I figure out another way to replace the bushings with the Powerflex ones or re-torque the old ones back to spec since it requires a complicated procedure involving proper weight distrubution not to mention my car is lowered so there is no way I can get underneath to re-torque bushing while the car is on the ground with load. This is the same reason why I really want these Powerflex bushings that don't require torquing under load.

If I have to remove the whole arm which requires purchasing a ball joint tool, I might as well replace it with a new arm with a new balljoint. So if anyone knows where I can order a pair of control arms without bushings, please point me to the right direction.

I don't mean to discourage anyone from doing this job that easyover was successful in doing but just be prepared to finish the job because once you dismount the bushing end of the control arm, there is not turning back.

BTW, I am pleased to discover upon dismounting the bushing end of the arm that my polyurethane stuffed bushings are still solid - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209875

Did you try the puller, or you didn't because you had no press sleeve? I think with the puller a receiver tube is not required. I ended up pushing out the rubber insert (that was messy) and sawing a relief in the busing. Then I used a pipe wrench to squeeze the aluminum and was finally able to get the bushing out.

For a 528 as well as a 530, I believe the Lemforder (OE) arm comes without the bushing pressed in. To be sure you get the real deal, I would suggest the same discount dealer i mentioned earlier: http://www.bmwautopartsdealer.com. Just type in the part number from RealOEM: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DD53&mospid=47585&btnr=31_0617&hg=31&fg=05

The arm should be close to $100. Other places want over $125 for it.

One thing - regarding my subframe - I spoke with bimmerowrld and they said the washers (that other folks mentioned in this forum) should be included in the package. In my case they were not, and I thought that they were not there because they are not needed for my model car.
So if you received the bushings without the metal shims, be safe and call the distributor to confirm they are indeed not needed for your model.

They said I can straighten the subframe out with a pry bar to the original size - does that sound reasonable, or should I be worried of the ears snapping on me?

[tomibriggs]

Did you try the puller, or you didn't because you had no press sleeve? I think with the puller a receiver tube is not required. I ended up pushing out the rubber insert (that was messy) and sawing a relief in the busing. Then I used a pipe wrench to squeeze the aluminum and was finally able to get the bushing out.

For a 528 as well as a 530, I believe the Lemforder (OE) arm comes without the bushing pressed in. To be sure you get the real deal, I would suggest the same discount dealer i mentioned earlier: http://www.bmwautopartsdealer.com. Just type in the part number from RealOEM: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DD53&mospid=47585&btnr=31_0617&hg=31&fg=05

The arm should be close to $100. Other places want over $125 for it.

One thing - regarding my subframe - I spoke with bimmerowrld and they said the washers (that other folks mentioned in this forum) should be included in the package. In my case they were not, and I thought that they were not there because they are not needed for my model car.
So if you received the bushings without the metal shims, be safe and call the distributor to confirm they are indeed not needed for your model.

They said I can straighten the subframe out with a pry bar to the original size - does that sound reasonable, or should I be worried of the ears snapping on me?

I didn't bother using the puller because I could see how it would make the job easier.

Thanks for the info! You just gave me 2 brilliant ideas:

1. Use a pipe wrench to twist & squeeze out the old bushing even if they get difformed in the process.

2. Call Bimmerworld and ask for my missing washers / shims.

[dmbmw530]

If you still have the rubber in there, you won't be able to bend the old bushing. The rubber also has another thin aluminum frame that gives it extra firmness. It all depends on how far you were able to push in the old bushing. If it's only up to the front of the thrust arm, I don't think you'll be able to achieve this. Try pushing the rubber all the way out, and then try bending in the edges. But yeah, the shims screwed me over big time... Not sure if I'll be able to straighten out the subframe ears. If anyone has experience with this I would appreciate your feedback. I really don't want to replace the subframe, but at the same time I don't want to have the thrust arm fall out on the highway while hitting a bump.

[tomibriggs]

If you still have the rubber in there, you won't be able to bend the old bushing. The rubber also has another thin aluminum frame that gives it extra firmness. It all depends on how far you were able to push in the old bushing. If it's only up to the front of the thrust arm, I don't think you'll be able to achieve this. Try pushing the rubber all the way out, and then try bending in the edges. But yeah, the shims screwed me over big time... Not sure if I'll be able to straighten out the subframe ears. If anyone has experience with this I would appreciate your feedback. I really don't want to replace the subframe, but at the same time I don't want to have the thrust arm fall out on the highway while hitting a bump.

Are you serious about the thin aluminum inside the bushing? In that case I will have to destroy the rubber 1st by drilling holes through it or something.

As for expanding your bracket, if you were able to bend them at 81 foot pounds, you should be able to easily expand with the use of a hammer or floor jack & something in the shape of a triangle or cone that you can insert between them.

[dmbmw530]

Are you serious about the thin aluminum inside the bushing? In that case I will have to destroy the rubber 1st by drilling holes through it or something.

As for expanding your bracket, if you were able to bend them at 81 foot pounds, you should be able to easily expand with the use of a hammer or floor jack & something in the shape of a triangle or cone that you can insert between them.

That's what was in mine... I think I was in a similar situation as well. Perhaps you are stronger and might be able to do it :)

Rereading easyover's last comment: he used a steel plate to push the bushing all the way flush with the thrust arm and then looks like he used one of the sleeves which was just the right size to push the bushing through. I too loaned the autozone bushing press tool and was able to press the bushing flush with the thrust arm. However I was not able to press it all the way through. Are you without a car now? If not, then perhaps a drive to the dealer to pick up the exact size press sleeve P/N: 83300491944 or the full set containing press sleeve and receiver tube P/N: 83300491942 (Note these are different P/N from the new posts as it seems they have been superceded by these). Looking back, this might have worked pretty well.

Looks like you have some time as you too will be waiting for the metal shims from bimmerworld, so you can probably order these press tools from bmwautopartsdealer.com and save a few bucks.

As far as my issue of the bent holder ears - I'm not sure how exact those frame measurements have to be and am wondering if it's something a body shop might be more in tune to answer. I am a bit scared to mess with the subframe - so if a body shop or someone on this forum that knows about these subframes can tell me it should be ok to just straighten it out I guess I'll hold off. Besides, I am waiting form my shims to come from bimmerworld.

[tomibriggs]

Rereading easyover's last comment: he used a steel plate to push the bushing all the way flush with the thrust arm and then looks like he used one of the sleeves which was just the right size to push the bushing through. I too loaned the autozone bushing press tool and was able to press the bushing flush with the thrust arm. However I was not able to press it all the way through. Are you without a car now?

Looks like you have some time as you too will be waiting for the metal shims from bimmerworld.

I noticed that steel plate from one of the pics fromoriginal post & used a similar one. I will try pressing them out again this time with some PB blaster, heat and maybe a brief turn of the bushing sleeve with a pipe wrench if possible. Fortunately, this is just my Sunday car so no rush.

Easyover's kit did not come with the shims neither so his mounting brackets could have bent as well upon torquing. He's had his Powerflex bushings on for quite sometime. Find out if he's having any issues not having those metal shims.

To those who's Powerflex kit came complete with the metal shims, what did they look like? How thin are they? Are they just regular washers with the same diameter as the bushings? If so, I might just go to Home Depot & pick up 4 pieces instead of waiting for bimmerworld's response.

[dmbmw530]

I PM'd easyover regarding the shims. He said when he was putting the arm back into the housing it was pretty tight. He said he did not even have room for shims. He also mentioned that he torqued them down to the same spec, and was able to put the cover back on. Perhaps it was an earlier model. According to bimmerworld they are approx 2mm thick. I think you should get them to send them to you, they might even overnight them as it is partially their screw up. I don't think you want to risk with washers from home depot...

[540ig5]

That's what was in mine... I think I was in a similar situation as well. Perhaps you are stronger and might be able to do it :)

I too loaned the autozone bushing press tool and was able to press the bushing flush with the thrust arm. However I was not able to press it all the way through. .

Follow the setps i described above (bend the sleeve inwards and push the other way). This will solve your problems

[tomibriggs]

I was finally able to press those darn bushings out with the help of some PB Blaster, lighter torch & a large pipe wrench to get some initial movement. Although, I'm not really sure wether or not there was really any movement but it sure made pressing those bushings out possible.

Advise to those will do this job & loan a ball joint press tool from Autozone...while you are there, pick up a 2 1/8"OD exhaust pipe coupling($2.49) which you can saw in half & use as a press sleeve 1 for each bushing. You will also need either a breaker bar or extension for your ratchet.

Like Easyover, I also found that the insatlling Powerflex bushings left no space for the metal shims. Although, I will still try to figure out a way to slip them between the new bushings & brackets if possible.

[tdawg183]

I've have everything ready for this now and was wondering if the whole process could be done on ramps instead of jacks/jackstands?

[mhughett]

I've have everything ready for this now and was wondering if the whole process could be done on ramps instead of jacks/jackstands?

I'll bet you would have much more room to press out the old bushings if you were using the jackstands. By the way, what are you using to press out the old bushings? I ordered the BMW part (press sleeve) but it hasn't come in yet. I plan on using the 3-jaw puller I rented from Autozone along with the sleeve and the pipe cap as per a previous article on this thread. Can't wait to try it out.

[tdawg183]

I'll bet you would have much more room to press out the old bushings if you were using the jackstands. By the way, what are you using to press out the old bushings? I ordered the BMW part (press sleeve) but it hasn't come in yet. I plan on using the 3-jaw puller I rented from Autozone along with the sleeve and the pipe cap as per a previous article on this thread. Can't wait to try it out.

I ended up not using ramps because it was almost as easy to jack up on jackstands. I have had a terrible time pressing out the bushings... in fact, the car is sitting outside with a half mangled bushing as I got it almost there and couldn't move it any further. The C-clamp ball joint remover only moved the bushing up to the arm on one side. I am now looking for a way to push the bushing the rest of the way through the arm. My temporary solution is a 1.5" (I think) PVC coupler, whichever it is it fits perfectly snug inside the bushing hole of the arm. I'll test tomorrow.

Has anybody else had this issue? or easy solution? It wasn't as simple as EASYOVER stated when he used a pipe wrench with a slight twist.

This should be a DIY'er beware WARNING... not as easy as it looks.

[dmbmw530]

I ended up not using ramps because it was almost as easy to jack up on jackstands. I have had a terrible time pressing out the bushings... in fact, the car is sitting outside with a half mangled bushing as I got it almost there and couldn't move it any further. The C-clamp ball joint remover only moved the bushing up to the arm on one side. I am now looking for a way to push the bushing the rest of the way through the arm. My temporary solution is a 1.5" (I think) PVC coupler, whichever it is it fits perfectly snug inside the bushing hole of the arm. I'll test tomorrow.

Has anybody else had this issue? or easy solution? It wasn't as simple as EASYOVER stated when he used a pipe wrench with a slight twist.

This should be a DIY'er beware WARNING... not as easy as it looks.

Two questions
1. Why did you order the press sleeve but decided to use the c-clamp?
2. Did you buy the c-clamp from harbor freight or rented from autozone?

Easyover pushed the bushing flush with the arm and then used one of the receiver sleeves to push it through, however I could not find one that would be the exact fit. I received the press sleeve (had to order the compete press set for $36 and let me tell you - it is definitely an exact fit. I still haven't tried the other side so can't comment on whether it helps, but with the right size bmw tool it looks feasible.

As far as a solution, all I can say is read the posts on page 4 of this thread and good luck...

[tdawg183]

[QUOTE=dmbmw530;2881581]Two questions
1. Why did you order the press sleeve but decided to use the c-clamp?

-the 3 different size press sleeves came with the C-Clamp tool

2. Did you buy the c-clamp from harbor freight or rented from autozone?

-autozone

QUOTE]

[bmwm3coupe]

I ended up not using ramps because it was almost as easy to jack up on jackstands. I have had a terrible time pressing out the bushings... in fact, the car is sitting outside with a half mangled bushing as I got it almost there and couldn't move it any further. The C-clamp ball joint remover only moved the bushing up to the arm on one side. I am now looking for a way to push the bushing the rest of the way through the arm. My temporary solution is a 1.5" (I think) PVC coupler, whichever it is it fits perfectly snug inside the bushing hole of the arm. I'll test tomorrow.

Has anybody else had this issue? or easy solution? It wasn't as simple as EASYOVER stated when he used a pipe wrench with a slight twist.

This should be a DIY'er beware WARNING... not as easy as it looks.

Same here. I am having a terrible time on my 540. I started yesterday, and was not able to finish since I did not have a car to go try different tools/stuff. When my wife got home from work I made a trip to Home Depot and got some "stuff" from the conduit/pluming/machine screws area to try something new as the tool from Harbor Freight was not quite cutting it.

I am trying again today :D

[dmbmw530]

Same here. I am having a terrible time on my 540. I started yesterday, and was not able to finish since I did not have a car to go try different tools/stuff. When my wife got home from work I made a trip to Home Depot and got some "stuff" from the conduit/pluming/machine screws area to try something new as the tool from Harbor Freight was not quite cutting it.

I am trying again today :D


The 540's bushing is a bigger diameter than the 6-cyl model so unless you have an exact fit press sleeve I think it might be tough to press it out. When I say exact it has to be pretty darn close because a single shift in the sleeve and the bushing will not move and you'll be stuck.

Some info on the diameters (in mm) if you are trying to manufacture your own exact fit press tool.
<pre> 6-cyl 8-cyl
------------------------------- ------ -----
Bushing diameter 58.3 66.4
Press sleeve diameter (outer) 57.7 65.5
Arm bore diameter (inner) 58 65.9</pre>
My strong suggestion is to get the bmw press sleeve (if you can find the part by itslef or the complete kit $36 for 6-cyl $42 for a 8-cyl)

Also, the thrust arm is not the same on both sides. The side that's towards the center of the car is notched, so it will help align the press sleeve when it enters. So when you press the bushing out, push it from center of the car towards the wheel. Have a read of http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/thrust_arm_bushings_procedure.htm for some more good detailed info...

[bmwm3coupe]

Still no luck with the regular methods - just really stuck in there, so I went to plan "C". I pushed out the rubber piece from inside the bushing (easy with the Home Depot "tool"), and used a hacksaw to gently cut a groove on it. It then came out really fast - much faster than any other method I tried before. I am taking a lunch break now and will install the new Powerflex bushings after lunch :thumbup:

[bmwm3coupe]

OK, all done. That was quite a project!!!

Putting back the new pushings in the drivers' side was easy, but a royal pain on the passenger side - I had to trim a little the new bushings since the metal pin/guide would not fit properly.

Then to get the new arms with the new bushings it is a pressure-fit. Thank God I had some of my new pray bars!. Lastly, putting back the bolts also takes time in the 540 (just as much to remove) since the steering arms are right in the middle of the projected path - you have to get the steering "just right" to get them in and out, and each side needed the steering in its own position.

So far ride feels fairly normal, if anything a little bit harsher, but I have to put more miles to know for sure.

The best thing about this job, is that for all practical purposes these bushings should outlast the car, so I should not need to do this again in the near future!

[tdawg183]

I need a clarification here:

Do the Powerflex bushing need to be tightened down with the suspension under load or not?

Also, this is for my personal understanding... everthing is installed and I'm finally driving the car. One thing that I found odd (maybe normal) is that the metal sleave does not fit flush from end to end in the bushings. It sits in maybe 1/8 - 1/4 inch, is this right?

[bmwm3coupe]

Do the Powerflex bushing need to be tightened down with the suspension under load or not?

From everything I read about this, no. No need to do this.



Also, this is for my personal understanding... everthing is installed and I'm finally driving the car. One thing that I found odd (maybe normal) is that the metal sleave does not fit flush from end to end in the bushings. It sits in maybe 1/8 - 1/4 inch, is this right?
Correct. And once you install and tighten the bolt, you will compress the bushings enough so that the metal sleeve will be contacting the end brackets - that is how you know you are done :D

[dmbmw530]

Correct. And once you install and tighten the bolt, you will compress the bushings enough so that the metal sleeve will be contacting the end brackets - that is how you know you are done :D

If you see that your bushing fits in pretty freely (i.e. you don't have to bang it into the holder ears) make sure that you are not missing the washers that go around the bushing. They were missing on mine, and when I tightened it to spec, the holder ears bent by about 4mm to take form of the bushing. I found it out the hard way when the bushing cover holes did not line up.

[dmbmw530]

SI pushed out the rubber piece from inside the bushing (easy with the Home Depot "tool"), and used a hacksaw to gently cut a groove on it.

What tool is that exactly? Using the c-clamp I found the bushing only went as far as the receiver tube allowed it.

[bmwm3coupe]

quote=dmbmw530;2887413]What tool is that exactly? Using the c-clamp I found the bushing only went as far as the receiver tube allowed it.[/quote]

Its a hand made tool from parts from Home Depot. You can find more about it in this thread: look back at post #21.

Also, if you look at this thread, also post #21 (just a coincidence!), you will see the "tool":
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=884627


If I were to go back in time, I would "most definitely" go this route first. Pushing the rubber part of the bushing with the tool is very easy compared to trying to remove the actual bushing while it is on the car. Once out, cut enough of it with a hack saw (be careful not to cut the actual arm!) and then almost any tool will be able to push the bushing out easily.

[bmwm3coupe]

If you see that your bushing fits in pretty freely (i.e. you don't have to bang it into the holder ears) make sure that you are not missing the washers that go around the bushing. They were missing on mine, and when I tightened it to spec, the holder ears bent by about 4mm to take form of the bushing. I found it out the hard way when the bushing cover holes did not line up.

Good point. I was only able to squeeze in one of the metal washers on each arm. I am not worried since everything is solid, but it would have been better if both of them fit, but I tried several times but was never able to get the other one in, so my install only has one of the metal washers in each side.

[tdawg183]

Ok well on my 528 there were no washers and I am running it currently without them. Everthing seems fine.

[aktansrt]

I'll bet you would have much more room to press out the old bushings if you were using the jackstands. By the way, what are you using to press out the old bushings? I ordered the BMW part (press sleeve) but it hasn't come in yet. I plan on using the 3-jaw puller I rented from Autozone along with the sleeve and the pipe cap as per a previous article on this thread. Can't wait to try it out.

Mhughett, where did you order the pressure sleeve and the pipe cap from? The way you are tackling this seems to make most sense to me. I will be waiting to hear how it went...

BTW, I called the dealer for the pressure sleeve tool (PN: 90-88-6-312-272 for 528i). They estimated a two-week delivery time - shipping from DEUTSCHLAND - and a $30 price tag.

Does anyone want to loan the press sleeve?

[tomibriggs]

I haven't checked this thread in awhile. I told you guys this job is harder than originally described.

These are the things I used:
PB Blaster
Lighter torch (Riteaid)
Large pipe wrench
Breaker bar or extension for your ratchet
2 1/8"OD exhaust pipe coupling(Autozone $2.49) which you need to saw in half & use as a press sleeve 1 for each side/bushing.

My observations:
Installing Powerflex bushings left no space for the metal shims that came with the kit.

Although most member claim that torquing the bushing bolt is not necessary under load, I think that it is better to so under load. After driving the car for a short trip, I re-tightened the bolt under load & found that it was below torque specs.

The OEM plastic cover that attaches to the bracket can no longer be remounted on the car because the Powerflex bushings are bigger/fatter than the old ones.


+1 on the warning that this is not an easy project even with the right tools. :thumbdwn:

+1 on the performance of these PU bushings. :thumbup:

[dmbmw530]

Mhughett, where did you order the pressure sleeve and the pipe cap from? The way you are tackling this seems to make most sense to me. I will be waiting to hear how it went...

BTW, I called the dealer for the pressure sleeve tool (PN: 90-88-6-312-272 for 528i). They estimated a two-week delivery time - shipping from DEUTSCHLAND - and a $30 price tag.

Does anyone want to loan the press sleeve?

I tried getting only the press sleeve and was told they are backordered from Germany, however the full set is available. I gave the part number for it earlier. On www.bmwautopartsdealer.com the press sleeve alone is only ~12 bucks where as the whole set including the receiver tube is ~36 (in case you still want to use the c-clamp)

On a side note, the bushings have some hydraulic fluid in them, and when they tear they should cause a stain which can be observed on the bottom of the thrust arm, as can be seen in easyover's write up (last image).

Mine did not have that, and it seems that all my pain and suffering was in vain. Today I replaced my rotors, and all the shaking is gone. So even though the thrust arms are a common problem for higher speed shimmy during braking, don't automatically dismiss the rotors (especially if you don't see the stain from the torn bushing)

[mhughett]

Mhughett, where did you order the pressure sleeve and the pipe cap from? The way you are tackling this seems to make most sense to me. I will be waiting to hear how it went...

BTW, I called the dealer for the pressure sleeve tool (PN: 90-88-6-312-272 for 528i). They estimated a two-week delivery time - shipping from DEUTSCHLAND - and a $30 price tag.

Does anyone want to loan the press sleeve?

I ordered this part about two weeks ago. As noted above, it did have to be obtained from Germany through my local dealer and was only $12 and change with my BMWCCA discount. Should be here in the next week or two. As for the pipe cap, I haven't obtained that yet. I'm waiting to get the sleeve before I go out and get the cap. I would think this should be pretty to find at a Home Depot or some place like that. I rented the 3-jaw puller from Autozone and based on everything I've read, this seem like the most efficient way to press out the old old bushings.

[HanSolofliesBMW]

Considering this DIY this week. It seems people are having issues with:

1). Getting the old bushings out, even with the proper tools.

2). The question remains, should these Powerflex bushings come with or without washers?

3). Those who use Powerflex bushings seem quite happy they made the change.


Any further input/ideas from you guys? Thanks.

[HanSolofliesBMW]

Considering this DIY this week. It seems people are having issues with:

1). Getting the old bushings out, even with the proper tools.

2). The question remains, should these Powerflex bushings come with or without washers?

3). Those who use Powerflex bushings seem quite happy they made the change.


Any further input/ideas from you guys? Thanks.

Edit: Also, FYI, I believe this the best grease to use for the Polyurethane bushings, it's what I've used in the past, SUPER LUBE TEFLON and comments from others here:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Grease-41160/dp/B000GUMCAA

http://72.14.205.104/search?q=cache:b0kKc6nynYYJ:www.rx7club.com/showthread.php%3Ft%3D506081%26page%3D13+super+lube +teflon+polyurethane+bushings&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=7&gl=us

http://72.14.205.104/search?q=cache:Awr0x5yGJogJ:www.coolcatcorp.com/faqs/PolyBushGrease.html+super+lube+teflon+polyurethane +bushings&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=9&gl=us


http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/handling-suspension-and-axle/41185-synthetic-grease-on-urethane-bushings/

http://72.14.205.104/search?q=cache:PoF6lqjymCYJ:store.webbmotorsports. com/forum/viewtopic.php%3Ft%3D159%26sid%3D6a48236f490e183f5e 0e4122b745c9c4+super+lube+teflon+polyurethane+bush ings&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=8&gl=us

http://72.14.205.104/search?q=cache:cyF32bLgPjsJ:www.northwestoffroad.c om/parts/diff_lubricants.html+super+lube+teflon+bushings&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=4&gl=us

[mhughett]

I ordered this part about two weeks ago. As noted above, it did have to be obtained from Germany through my local dealer and was only $12 and change with my BMWCCA discount. Should be here in the next week or two. As for the pipe cap, I haven't obtained that yet. I'm waiting to get the sleeve before I go out and get the cap. I would think this should be pretty to find at a Home Depot or some place like that. I rented the 3-jaw puller from Autozone and based on everything I've read, this seem like the most efficient way to press out the old old bushings.

I'm starting to get pi$$ed with BMW. I ordered the press sleeve over 5 weeks ago from my local dealer in Tulsa and they still don't have it. They said that there are 3 others on order nationwide and that no dealers carry the part. Some are probably active on this message board. All they can do is put a priority on the order to speed it up but I don't know if that will do much good. With all of the difficulty that people have had with this repair, I want to have the right tools and equipment. However my patience is waning.

Fortunately, my existing bushings aren't that bad so I think I can wait it out. Sorry about the rant.

[aktansrt]

I'm starting to get pi$$ed with BMW. I ordered the press sleeve over 5 weeks ago from my local dealer in Tulsa and they still don't have it. They said that there are 3 others on order nationwide and that no dealers carry the part. Some are probably active on this message board. All they can do is put a priority on the order to speed it up but I don't know if that will do much good. With all of the difficulty that people have had with this repair, I want to have the right tools and equipment. However my patience is waning.

Fortunately, my existing bushings aren't that bad so I think I can wait it out. Sorry about the rant.

I ordered the part from bmwautopartsdealer, just to be told 10 days later that the sleeve is not available even from Germany. Meaning they do not sell the sleeve alone. I ordered the entire set for about 30 bucks, plus shipping and they said they had that part and it is supposed to be shipped. The part number is 83300491942. Change the last digit to 3 and 4 to get the individual sleeve part numbers, which I believe are the pressure sleeve and receiver sleeve. By the way, the part number is incorrect in Beisan systems web site. http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/thrust_arm_bushings_procedure.htm

The correct part number is 90886312270, which is superceded by part number 83300491942. This is for 6 cylinder E39.

[bmwm3coupe]

3). Those who use Powerflex bushings seem quite happy they made the change.


I now have about a month with the new thrust arm bushings - I definitely like how the car handles. Just for reference my 540 has the factory Sport Package, I have almost new Koni FSD's (with stock Sport Package springs), and front/rear sway bar powerflex bushings.

Will

[MOKFIVE]

that is a great post! I was told by the dealer i should replace my bushings on my 2002 540i, 76K and it would cost approx $745 for the pair, thats with labor, I think i'll do it myself.

Thanks for the post.

[aktansrt]

I ordered the part from bmwautopartsdealer, just to be told 10 days later that the sleeve is not available even from Germany. Meaning they do not sell the sleeve alone. I ordered the entire set for about 30 bucks, plus shipping and they said they had that part and it is supposed to be shipped. The part number is 83300491942. Change the last digit to 3 and 4 to get the individual sleeve part numbers, which I believe are the pressure sleeve and receiver sleeve. By the way, the part number is incorrect in Beisan systems web site. http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/thrust_arm_bushings_procedure.htm

The correct part number is 90886312270, which is superceded by part number 83300491942. This is for 6 cylinder E39.

OK. I have changed the bushings. The first one took much longer - about 2 hours - than the second one, which took only half an hour. I had both the pressure and receiver sleeves, which I strongly suggest for anyone undertaking this job.

I wanted to write this to possibly help save time for those who wants to do this themselves. I used the C-clamp similar to that mentioned in this post earlier. I have rented the three jaw-puller, but never got to use it. The C-clamp was too narrow for me to squeeze both sleeves, plates, and the bushing all together. So here is what I did: I used two flat steel plates on either end of the clamp. On one side, I put it right against the bushing. On the other side, I put the receiver sleeve and then another steel plate right against the C-clamp's other end. Make sure that they are aligned through the center of the bushing, which makes it much easier to push the bushing. With not much effort, I could push the bushing flush to the edge of the hole in the control arm. This gave me enough space to put the pressure sleeve right against the bushing, and then the rest was pushed in pretty easy. Do not remove the receiver sleeve.

My powerflex bushings came with four shims - or washers, two for each arm. I could not squeeze two, there was space for only one shim, which I put in. But after installing them, I think I changed the toe in the wheels, so I needed alignment. Here are the results:

No more 50-60 mph shimmy. Car drove very nice at those speeds. Then I started having a shimmy above 70mph that I never had before. I took the car to a nice place in the Twin Cities area. These guys know what they are doing. After alignment and balancing the tires, the car drives very nice. I will report after more driving, but I can just say that I am very happy with the results.

If you think you want more clarification on what I did, let me know. I will report later to see how it is holding up.

[ravve]

I changed my bushings all by myself without the special tools. I used a drillmachine to take out the rubber in the bushing and when it was gone I hacksaw the aluminium edge in two peices and pushed it out. Not the right way but it worked. I changed bushing for both traction and wishbone arms and here you can see pictures of the results:

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012681_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012682_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012683_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012684_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012685_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012686_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012687_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012688_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012689_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012690_s640.jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00012691_s640.jpg

[mhughett]

I'm starting to get pi$$ed with BMW. I ordered the press sleeve over 5 weeks ago from my local dealer in Tulsa and they still don't have it. They said that there are 3 others on order nationwide and that no dealers carry the part. Some are probably active on this message board. All they can do is put a priority on the order to speed it up but I don't know if that will do much good. With all of the difficulty that people have had with this repair, I want to have the right tools and equipment. However my patience is waning.

Fortunately, my existing bushings aren't that bad so I think I can wait it out. Sorry about the rant.

Well, it looks like my timing is once again perfect. As of last week, the dealer told me they still could not tell if my press sleeve has ever shipped from Germany or when it would (if ever) arrive. Therefore, last weekend, I opted to buy the full sleeve set from DMBMW530 since he has completed his installation. Well, today I get a call from the dealer who tells me that my sleeve is in and I can pick it up any time.

Is there anyone who would like to buy this off me? The dealer tells me that I don't have to take it but I thought there might be someone on the board who would like the press sleeve for the 6-cyl cars. It is very difficult to find and the job will be much easier with the right tools. Cost would be about $15+shipping. Please pm if interested.

[tdawg183]

Correct. And once you install and tighten the bolt, you will compress the bushings enough so that the metal sleeve will be contacting the end brackets - that is how you know you are done :D

When I started to do this it was slightly bending the ear brackets holding it in. Is that correct?

[bmwm3coupe]

When I started to do this it was slightly bending the ear brackets holding it in. Is that correct?

Correct :D

[tdawg183]

Correct :D

Good to hear, I stopped torquing once I knoticed the tighening of the ear brackets. Because of this i have still noticed a slight vibration. HOPEFULLY this will remove that! I'll update

[mhughett]

OK. I have changed the bushings. The first one took much longer - about 2 hours - than the second one, which took only half an hour. I had both the pressure and receiver sleeves, which I strongly suggest for anyone undertaking this job.

I wanted to write this to possibly help save time for those who wants to do this themselves. I used the C-clamp similar to that mentioned in this post earlier. I have rented the three jaw-puller, but never got to use it. The C-clamp was too narrow for me to squeeze both sleeves, plates, and the bushing all together. So here is what I did: I used two flat steel plates on either end of the clamp. On one side, I put it right against the bushing. On the other side, I put the receiver sleeve and then another steel plate right against the C-clamp's other end. Make sure that they are aligned through the center of the bushing, which makes it much easier to push the bushing. With not much effort, I could push the bushing flush to the edge of the hole in the control arm. This gave me enough space to put the pressure sleeve right against the bushing, and then the rest was pushed in pretty easy. Do not remove the receiver sleeve.

My powerflex bushings came with four shims - or washers, two for each arm. I could not squeeze two, there was space for only one shim, which I put in. But after installing them, I think I changed the toe in the wheels, so I needed alignment. Here are the results:

No more 50-60 mph shimmy. Car drove very nice at those speeds. Then I started having a shimmy above 70mph that I never had before. I took the car to a nice place in the Twin Cities area. These guys know what they are doing. After alignment and balancing the tires, the car drives very nice. I will report after more driving, but I can just say that I am very happy with the results.

If you think you want more clarification on what I did, let me know. I will report later to see how it is holding up.

I just completed my installation this morning and it went very much like Aktansrt's shown above. I too had both the factory press sleeve and receiver sleeve and used the Harbor Freight C-press. I also found that in order to have room for both sleeves, you need flat pieces of steel on both sides as the round adapters that come with the press stick out too far and don't leave room for th sleeves. The only points I will add are:

1. Air tools make pressing out the old bushings a piece of cake.
2. The most difficult part for me was lining up all 5 pieces in the press without something falling out. I sat the press on my floor jack while I was stacking up the steel plates along with the press sleeves and the thrust arm. Once I got everything lined up and tightened by hand, a few seconds with the impact wrench got the rest of the job done.
3. If you use an impact wrench, make sure you get the press sleeve straight. Mine got a litttle crooked and got stuck as it was going into the arm. I quickly recognized the problem, backed it out and started over. No harm done.
4. This process takes a LOT of different tools to perform. Screwdrivers, ratchets, air tools, c-clamps, bring em all to the party.
5. I could only sqeeze one of the washers into the assembly upon completion. I tried the other one but not quite enough room. I doubt there will be a problem from this.
6. Someone earlier in this thread said that they couldn't get the covers back over the powerflex bushings. I had no issues at all with this.

After I finished putting everything back together, I took it out for a drive. I immediately noticed that I don't get the violent shudder when I hit a bump while braking below 15mph. I've found that both E39's I've had did this after 50k miles. It no longer does this. No shimmy at 50-60 but I felt a slight vibration in the wheel from 70-80. This seemed to go away after driving for a few minutes. It could have been some flat spotting on the tires since the car had been sitting for a couple of days before today. Overall, everything felt tight and tracked perfectly true. I doubt I affected the alignment specs but I may have this checked out within a month or so anyway, just to be sure. Overall, I'd have to rate this as a successful project. I've found that the sleeves I bought for this project also work on other BMW's that my kids and other friends drive. I think I'll get my money's worth out of them and I HIGHLY recommend that you invest in these to help with this DIY.

[Beau6183]

I just finished my installation as well. I used a 6" gear puller and a couple pieces of steel my brother machined into a press sleeve and block (from the dimensions in the big write up). worked well.

I was able to get both of the brass washers in on each side with a lot of effort. Hardest part was figuring out where to put the tierod in order to get the thrust arm bolt out, and where to position the wheels to pull/reposition the thrustarm the easiest. Never really did figure out exactly what I did, just messed with it till it came out.

Results: very nice handling, no shimmy, no tramlining. I'm thinking I might replace the rest of my bushings with their respective powerflex replacements.

On to the next DIY fix...

[tspeed]

I too completed the powerflex bushing installation of the upper thrust arm and I noticed that the ride is much harsher than before with the OEM bushings. The shuddering upon breaking is gone but whenever I go over any defects in the road it's almost bone jarring.

I was able to squeeze in all four washers, and after torquing to 81 ft-lbs, I noticed that the PU bushings were being squeezed and plumping out slightly.

Did others notice this or is my cheap torque wrench overtorquing? Could this compressing of the PU bushings be the cause of the overly harsh ride?

By the way, I bent one of the holding arm/ear and was able to bend it back out with a bolt-nut setup.

[jieg]

can others please give us feedback after installing the powerflex urethane bushings!?

it has been quite a while since the thread started

is the ride supposed to be smoother and softer or harsher?
handling is improved or what?

thanks guys for all the feedback and instructions

[bmwm3coupe]

I still like them - I would do it all over again. Things got "firmer", but not "punishing hard" or anything like that. Note that I also have the front/rear Powerflex sway bushings as well (stock sway bar up front, M5 sway in the rear), and I also have the Koni FSD shocks (using the OEM Sport Springs), and I love how my car handles/feels.

Will

[mhughett]

can others please give us feedback after installing the powerflex urethane bushings!?

it has been quite a while since the thread started

is the ride supposed to be smoother and softer or harsher?
handling is improved or what?

thanks guys for all the feedback and instructions

If you read some of the 130+ posts, most will indicate that the responsiveness is improved but the ride and the overall feel when going over bumps is a little more harsh. However, these bushings did get rid of the problem I had when I'm braking and hit a bump, the ABS would go crazy on me. It is now much more stable with the PF bushings. It has also cured the shimmy that many get in the 50-60mph range. In my case, it actually move the shimmy to the 75-80mph range but this only occurs shortly after starting up and I think it is due to flat spotting on tires. It goes away after a couple of miles.

The only issue I had with installation was that I could only get two of the 4 brass washer installed. I think it was because the bushings were a little too wide. The sleeve that goes into the holes and holds the bolt was slightly recessed from the bushings even though I tried as best I could to get it flush by pushing the bushings together. Oh well, it seems to work just fine.

[tdawg183]

In my case, it actually move the shimmy to the 75-80mph range but this only occurs shortly after starting up and I think it is due to flat spotting on tires. It goes away after a couple of miles.

I'm so glad that you said that because I experienced the same problem and had been searching the forums for a solution like a fat kid does honey in the pantry. Any chance this would be from minor wear on the other bushing in the front? I've been debating on just replacing the rest of them so my ride is normal again.

One last comment, when I replaced my bushings i turned the stearing wheel to make more arm room while replacing one side at a time. Now me stearing seems to be slightly offset to the left so when driving in a straight line i have the stearing wheel aligned slightly clockwise to dead center. Any chance this is a result of not tightening the bushing when I knew the stearing was dead center. I can't guarantee it but I know I didn't check that the stearing wheel was straight forward when I tightened everything up.

Thanks

[tspeed]

Does anyone else have creaking noises from the front suspension area after installing the PowerFlex bushings?
After I installed them in the upper thrust arms, I have creaking noises at low speeds when turning or sometimes going over bumps and stop and go.
The noise is like an old wooden ship that's creaking in the ocean.
Also, how often do you lubricate these bushings? Do you remove them completely to lube
because it's a b--ch to re-insert those two (per bushing) metal washers?

[mhughett]

Does anyone else have creaking noises from the front suspension area after installing the PowerFlex bushings?
After I installed them in the upper thrust arms, I have creaking noises at low speeds when turning or sometimes going over bumps and stop and go.
The noise is like an old wooden ship that's creaking in the ocean.
Also, how often do you lubricate these bushings? Do you remove them completely to lube
because it's a b--ch to re-insert those two (per bushing) metal washers?

I have this and I'm not going to do this any more. These noises sound like I'm driving a 65 Chrysler or something. I just ordered some OEM bushings (only cost $55) and will be putting them in this weekend. Now that I'm familiar with the procedure and have the bushing press as well as the press and receiver sleeves, it's no big deal to put in new ones every 50-60k miles. The noise just drives me crazy every time I turn the wheel or go over bumps slowly.

[tspeed]

I thought of going back to OEM bushings, but I gave the PF bushings one more chance and after removing, re-lubing, and re-installing, the noise is gone, for now.
It's easier second time around and didn't have much trouble with the metal washers.
I need to see how long the lube will last before the creaking noise returns.

[mhughett]

I've now officially gone back to the OEM-style bushings. OMG, I forgot how these vehicles were supposed to behave. No shimmy at any speed and still stable going over bumps. It is perfect once again; and no noise and no harshness as from the powerflex bushings. As for reinstalling the oem bushings, I used the Harbor freight c-clamp press with steel plates on each end. It's a struggle to get everything lined up using this press in a horizontal position but it's certainly doable. It also helps to have an impact wrench to turn the press.

I'm so much happier with the OEM bushings and I will certainly tolerate replacing them every 50-60k miles if they can perform like they do right now.

[BigCo540i]

^ Thanks you just made me feel a whole lot better about spending $300 for the OEM's. I bought them last night and felt bad after seeing the beginning of this thread.:thumbup:

[Zonasvt]

Hi All,
New E39 owner and first-time poster--

I just completed the thrust arm bushing replacement; no issues and the car handles great with no more 70 - 80 mph shimmy.

Cheers,
J.R.

[fmzip]

I ended up replacing everything in my front suspension with OEM parts, rotors, pads, complete control and thrust arms, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and endlinks, new Koni FSD's, swapped three sets of wheels, road forced balanced etc. etc. and..................

I STILL HAVE THE SHIMMY!!!

Details can be found here:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=911463

My powerflex bushings and tools are on the way, I hope to god this is the last $100 I spend on this front end! Even if it squeaks, I'll take it!

[cn90]

Is there a thread on Front End Rebuilding?
Basically replacing all the wear and tear items here?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DD53&mospid=47585&btnr=31_0617&hg=31&fg=05

[bjd1020]

OK I have a question. Im on the Beast power site and figured I'd go ahead and order the whole bushing set. Its asking me what size roll bar I have in the rear and front 22 to 27mm. I have no idea. I have a 2000 540i with sport package. Can anyone give me some insight.

[Al's540i]

I purchased two polyeurathane bushings from FC Groton on eBay. All I received were the bushings? Do I need anything else to perform this install? My indie is going to do it for me but do I need anything else are can I reuse bolts and other hardware that's already on the car?

[TMcNasty]

Hey all,

Pardon me if this has been covered before. I recently ordered everything on this page.

http://www.beastpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BMI&Product_Code=PF-BE39M-BUSH&Category_Code=powerflex

...full poly kit and TCD rear brackets.

So anyway...I think I have a pretty good idea of what needs doing based on threads here and other BMW sites, but I don't like starting a project being pretty sure! If I type anything that is incorrect please feel to set me straight. If you have any random unsolicited advice for certain questions just put the number before your answer to I can organize it all. Thx!

Keep in mind I have a garage for this work, a pretty complete tool kit, one hydraulic jack (may need to change that) and four jackstands, as well as 2 low-profile ramps. I'll bold out what really concerns me. And also...this is for an 03 M5. :thumbup:

#1
This work (especially front bushings) needs to be done with suspension hanging loose (jackstands) as opposed to compressed (ramps) right?

#2
I've seen other site DIY's where car is lifted in front using a center jack point...an X imprinted metal area behind oil pan. This is acceptable for M5 also...correct? Assuming my jack makes it under anyway.

#3
Anything similar in the rear? I've seen rear diff mentioned and dismissed by an equal amount of peeps here and on other BMW sites.

I may just use two hydraulic jacks...one for each side of car to lift and put jackstands underneath car as an emergency backup. Or get that sweet lookin' Craftsman jack/jackstand combo thing that was posted here.

#4
On the rear swaybar...to replace both bushings and brackets it seems like the swaybar needs to be detached from the endlinks correct? To reduce pressure? Does the swaybar have multiple holes at the end to choose stiffness? If so do I go with wherever it currently is or has the board reached another consensus? Could someone tell me the M5 torque values on the RSB bracket nuts and endlink bolts? edit: heard endlinks don't need to come off...and someone on another site told me 30 ft-lbs for the bracket bolts. :thumbup:

#5
In the front I'm going to use the drill/cut out the rubber/cut the bushing metal sleeve out technique on the thrust arms. I know be careful to not cut the arm bores! I've read conflicting torque values for this bolt depending on forum/5-Series car being worked on. Anyone know for sure the M5 torque number for the thrust arm bushing bolt?

#6 I've read that from swaybar brackets need to be removed to allow access to thrust arm bushing bolt. Fine...I have bushings to go there anyway. But the DIY's I've seen do not show the need for disconnecting FSB from the endlinks. Is that accurate? If not the M5 FSB endlink torque number please? And as long as we're at it...M5 FSB bracket nut torque?

#7
For control arms...do the control arms also have metal bushing sleeves that need to be cut out? I couldn't seem to find pictures of that either way. Also, the M5 torque number for control arm bushing bolt?

Thanks everyone! I'm sure a lot of this is in a repair manual...and I've learned alot in other threads/boards, but I want the info. from the horses mouth. I actually did order what I thought was a repair manual from eBAY called TIS. I've seen many of you mention TIS...and it seems like I should be able to use that as a repair guide...but either I have no idea how to access the right area or it's not meant for this type of work. Personally I'm pretty disappointed in it.

[cclcal]

autozone and kragen auto parts loan the tool to remove the bushings. They both charge your CC but refund it all when you return the tools. You have 90 days at autozone and 2 days at Kragen (after 2 days it's $6/day). But the Kragen tool was brand new with instructions.
I ended up borrowing from autozone, borrowed a torque wrench as well.

No need for hacksaws!

I have yet to jack up the car from the middle, I've only jacked it up from one side and used jack stands to change pads/rotors. Is the car stable to jack from the middle and then put jack stands? I'm afraid car is going to tip to one side.

[tdawg183]

autozone and kragen auto parts loan the tool to remove the bushings. They both charge your CC but refund it all when you return the tools. You have 90 days at autozone and 2 days at Kragen (after 2 days it's $6/day). But the Kragen tool was brand new with instructions.
I ended up borrowing from autozone, borrowed a torque wrench as well.

No need for hacksaws!

I had to borrow this tool but it doesn't come with everything you need to push the old bushing sleeves out (unless you're really good). I think that this has been covered already. When I used this tool I could press the bushing all the way up to arm but by then the tool had flared the bushing sleave slightly which made it IMPOSSIBLE to get through. I ended up using a square steel plate on one side of the tool to get it flush with the arm and then used the tool alone to begin pushing it through the arm. It was easy once I figured out how to do it. I was about to pull out the dremmel.

[armstm0]

Hi all.
Just did my thrust arm bushes this weekend with Powerflex. Took 5.5 hours to complete both sides.

Main tricky points were removing old bushes, tried a 3 jaw puller but wouldn't budge. I have a bush extractor tool, but not correct diameter sleeves. So I drilled out the old rubber and cut the outer case. Much easier if a bit noisy and smelly.
Interestingly when I drilled through, only one bush leaked fluid, so it looks like the other had already leaked out. Both had small tears in the rubber.
It was tight getting both powerflex washers in but they did fit.

Results: Slightly harsher ride, but not too unpleasant. Tighter steering feel. 45mph shimmy gone, a very slight wobble at 60mph, probably some other components a little worn, it's got 145k miles now!

I also replace the anti-roll bar bushes whilst I was there - they were worn too. I used standard bushes for this.

[TMcNasty]

I also replaced my front thrust arm bushings and front swaybar bushings on my 03 M5 yesterday...after I replaced by broken rear swaybar brackets/bushings of course. Took me a lot more time than the poster above, but I've never done this type of work before so I moved real slow.

One piece of advice for those of you not using any on-car presses (like 3-jaw pullers and bolts n sleeves) to remove old bushings and the metal shell:

CORDED (not battery powered) POWER TOOLS!!!

Most specifically a drill and a jigsaw. And if you really want it to be easy a Drill Doctor (tm) to resharpen your drill bits (you hit metal in there...not just rubber) and backup jigsaw blades.

Drill as many holes thru that rubber as you can and use the side of the bits to try and core out the center metal bolt holder. Then lay into it with the jigsaw. One very helpful tip to know is that the metal center "bolt hole" piece and the outer bearing shell are NOT the only metal you need to worry about!
Even with the metal center "cored" out I could not get the rubber out...very perplexing.
Turns out there is a metal "ring" embedded into the rubber right at the outer edge (both sides) that presses into the outer metal sleeve. It's only about a 1/4 inch deep.
If you cut this hidden ring in 4-5 places on each side the rubber remainder just falls out.

Once only the metal sleeve is left use the jigsaw w/ metal cutting blade to cut two parallel lines into the sleeve about a 1/2inch apart...all the way across the cylinder...and at least 50-75% of the way thru the sleeve. Like I said...power tools. A hacksaw is just too much work IMHO. This technique creates more of a "crumple zone" then just one line and you don't have to try and go all the way thru like if you did only one line and risk cutting the arm itself.

With the crumple zone ready grab the outer edge with fully-opened channel locks, but not "around the cylinder" so to speak, but instead with just the jaw tips. One tip next to crumple zone and the other on the opposite side. When you try and push the edges together the shell will "zigzag" at the two weak lines under the pressure and the diameter of the cylinder will decrease. Once it comes away from the arm bore at all it will twist right out w/ the channel locks or even vice grips.

Easy money.

[armstm0]

Yeah, I used a corded drill, with a special bit designed for both drilling and cutting sidewise. I broke one bit, but luckily had a spare! (That five and a half hours seemed a long time struggling under the car!)

[TMcNasty]

arm,
did you have any problems getting in both metal washers that came w/ the PF thrust arm bushings? I could not get more than one in per side!
I have a theory that maybe I put too much grease on and it built up between the bearing halves and therefore made bearing extra-wide during reinstall. The parts are so tight and smooth I don't think the grease could squirt out and may have created an internal "greasewasher."
I did this on an 03 M5...what kind of car did you do?
Also, can you tell me more about those drill bits you used?

[armstm0]

Yeah, I did struggle getting both washers in (both sides). 1998 540 touring (wagon to you guys), (V8) - I think the bushes are the same for the M5. Part no. PPF5-501.
I first pulled the bushes in tight using a clamp, there was a hiss of the trapped air coming out as I tightened them up.
The first washer went in okay, the second was a right pain. I wiggled the arms, altered the steering, altered the wheel height using a jack, and used a big hammer to help them in. A very snug fit. I was tempted to leave them with only one side done, but figured that the bushes should last longer with the metal washers.
The tightest bit on mine seemed to be the inner sleeve against the brackets. I was tempted to grind a fraction off, but as I'd almost got everything in place, I persevered.
The drill bit is tungsten coated, it has a normal cutting tip, but the sides are shaped and sharpened designed for cutting wood/aluminium in a sideways direction. I couldn't find it for sale at the shop I bought it, otherwise I'd have sent you a link.
Cheers, Mark.

[TMcNasty]

yeah I figure I'll give those other 2 washers another try when I do the lower control arms in the near future.

[bimmerZ5]

so easyover, and others who have gone to the powerflex bushings... what's your long-term update/review? have the bushings started squeaking? are they holding up? how many miles have you put on them now?

[djt5150]

I did my upper and lower control arm bushings saturday. I followed the steps on this DIY, but don't ever think that this is a quick job. I started late morning at about 11:00am, and finished around 7:00pm (four sets of bushings, though).

I did, in fact, purchase the harbor freight tool, and it worked OK. I still had to improvise using some thick washers, misc pipe, and such. The tool does not include all of the correct sized sleeves that are required for my car. I was able to use my 3 jaw puller with some success. I'm not sure that I could have done this without my 1/2" impact. Some of the bushings were really hard to get out.

And yes, it's nearly impossible to get both washers installed with the bushings in the lower control arms. However, I have read enough threads on this forum, and talked to the guys at powerflex, to know that you can't just leave them off. So, my solution was to place a jack under the control arm (with the bushings installed) so that the assembly was just below the reciever, and start the washers - at an angle. Then, pump the jack upward, forcing the bushings between the washers and everything up into the reciever. The hardest part of the whole deal was lining up the washers and internal sleeve so that the bolt would go through and come out the other side of the reciever. That was tough, and took a LONG TIME. A good set of punches to use as guides was invaluable.

As far as performance...my car is definately more aggressive. You can feel everything in the road, but when you hit a bump, it is definately solid - not loose feeling like before. Car actually feels like it WANTS to take corners, now. I did notice a slight shimmy at 75 mph that I didn't have before. It's probably an out-of-balance tire that is amplified by the new, solid bushings. (EDIT: Turns out it was a slightly bent rim. Had all the wheels rotated and balanced - and the bent one put on the back. Now, the car rides nice and smooth at all speeds. As I said though, you can feel every imperfection in the road with the new bushings. :EDIT.)

Good luck to the rest of you who are thinking about doing this.

[lablancjc]

With the amount of hassle I have read regarding this DIY (which by the way is fantastic) I am having my local indy do it today. It was funny I brought him the bushing and he was like WTF is this. I advised him he does not need to guarantee the bushing just needs to guarantee his work. It was funny even after he told me he would do it, his face told me those things are not going to last very long.

I have asked this question before with little response, maybe I will get better on this thread. How many miles do you have on your bushings and would you do it again?

[bmwm3coupe]

It was funny even after he told me he would do it, his face told me those things are not going to last very long.

I have asked this question before with little response, maybe I will get better on this thread. How many miles do you have on your bushings and would you do it again?

I have over 15K miles on mine. Those "things" will outlast the rest of the car - in fact I got these so that I would not have to do it ever again :thumbup:

Will

[nyclad]

Hi guys,


This DIY writeup is great! I put in the Powerflex thrust arm bushings in my '02 530i, and with the help of this DIY, did it in about 3 hours. 1 hour of that was shopping at Harbor Freight, some of that time staring at the bushings and other prepwork, and about 15 minutes of actual bushing removal.

I ended up buying and returning the Ball Joint Tool (detailed at the beginning of the DIY)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335
The problem was the press sleeve included was slightly smaller than the OEM bushing and I started pushing out the rubber part of the bushing, leaving the aluminum bushing sleeve.

When I returned to Harbor Freight, I bought a 3 Jaw Puller, and a Harbor Freight employee suggested the 14 Piece Master Ball Joint Adapter Set for $59.99, since it has more sleeves.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46389
He said I could return it when I was finished. (hey...his words, not mine.) :angel:

If you click on the photo, the second sleeve from the bottom right is an exact fit. The only problem is that there is a little lip on the sleeve that fits into the OEM bushing's metal outer sleeve and needs to be hammered off once you finished pressing it out. The little lip basically served to lock in the press sleeve to the bushing. With this tool, the actual removal time for both OEM bushings was about 15 minutes. 12 minutes pressing out the first, using a lot of muscle. 3 minutes for the second, once I realized I had my air powered impact wrench sitting on the ground next to me.:rolleyes: I used that to drive the 3 jaw puller, much to the relief of my arms.

Like some that have posted here, when I torqued the bushing bolt to 81 ft-lbs, I slightly bent the bushing brackets. I know I did since the holes for the plastic bushing covers don't line up anymore. I still feel a slight bit apprehensive about this, but we'll see.

I forgot to take photos, but the only real difference is the 14 piece kit from Harbor Freight is a perfect fit.

I did this a few days ago, and my car is getting new tires and an alignment today, so we'll see how it goes when I pick it up later. In just driving a few miles to the tire shop, the ride feels a lot tighter, although the bumps feel more jarring. Prior to this, the bumps made me feel as if the tires were literally bouncing off the road, especially when going over the Botts dots when crossing freeway lanes.

Hope this helps.
Steve

[lablancjc]

OMG these are freaking awesome, so they were so easy to install for my indy he originally quoted me 3 hours $270 install. I picked up my car today $180 it only took him 2 hours. Man I love these things my braking, accelerating, and alignment seems to be like new(could all just be in my head). Either way I love the drive now this thing feels so smooth, now have 12 miles on the new bushing and I love em, will keep people updated on mileage just to encourage the swap!.

[jieg]

time to kindly ask again for more feedback from powerflex users?

how do the bushings behave on cold and very cold climate?, I suppose they get hard when cold, how does that reflect on the driving or feeling?

i am sure some have put a few more thousand miles, and I am sure many of us want to hear about it.

thanks

[Mello]

Where did you get the bushings from and how much? Also how are they still doing?

[ij1212]

Like many other E39 drivers I've been dealing with the steering wheel shimmy and clunk from the front end when going over bumps or potholes in the road. After doing all the research I was convinced it was the thrust arm bushings. Just looking at the design of the bushing and the geometry of the arm itself in the suspension was enough to convince me that the forces on this bushing can cause it to wear out in a relatively short period of time. My car has 77K miles, so I know it was due.

So the next question is what to do about it. The four factors for me in this decision were cost, time, effort, and end results. I'm less concerned about overall complexity as I have a fairly well equiped garage and plenty of mechanical experience (I am fairly new to BMW's, however).

I first considered replacing with complete stock thrust arms. Cost is moderate, however time and effort involved is considereable due to having to dismantle most of the front suspension. Results would be good, at least for awhile, until the stock bushing failed again. I wanted something better.

Next was arms with upgraded bushing from other models of BMW's or pressed in polyurethane bushings. These would certainly improve the end results, but cost would be more and effort would be the same as replacing with stock arm.

Next was just replacing the bushing in the arm already on the car. I liked this idea if:
A) I could replace the bushing without having to remove the thrust arm from the car
B) I could upgrade to a better than stock bushing

After ready all the DIY for thrust arm replacement online, thumbing through my Bentley's, and crawling around under my car a few times, and finding the Powerflex polyurethane bushings for our application, I convinced myself that the last option could be easily accomplished, and it was, in about 2 hrs. this last Sunday! I didn't even have to take off the tires!

Here's how I did it:


First thing is to get the front up in the air and on jackstands. Then remove the lower front inner fenderwell, brake duct, and thrust arm bushing cover.

Next remove the bolt through the thrust arm. It comes out easy with the front wheels pointing forward. The thrust arm will drop exposing the bushing with plenty of room to work. Next step is to press out old bushing. The key to this is having this $30 tool from Harbor Freight Tools. I bought for R/R of ball joints on Jeep front axles. It works well for pressing out bushings as well

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/bushtool.JPG

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/press2.JPG

The bushing pressed out fairly easily. Due to the width of the bushing and the depth of the press coller, I could only press the bushing out to with in about an 1/8" of the arm. I then simply supported the arm with the florr jack and used a pipe wrench on the bushing and with a slight twist it came right out.

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/almost_there.JPG

With the old bushing out, it was time to install the Powerflex bushing. I chose this bushing for several reasons:
1) Only $75 to do both front
2) Split design means it won't have to be pressed in, so it will be easy to install
3) Floating sleeve means I can tighten the through bolt down with the weight of the car off the front wheels and not have to worry about misalignment of the bushing like you would with a stock bushing or a polyurethane bushing with a fixed sleeve

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/poweflex.JPG

I assembled the bushing into the arm using liberal amount of marine grade white lithium grease. The bushing come with a small pack of a silicon based lubricant, but due to the limited amount that came with the bushings, the fact that I have had good luck with the lithium on poly bushings on my Jeeps for years, and that I have a whole tub of this stuff, I went with the lithium.

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/bush1.JPG

I know, my power steering lines are leaking!:rolleyes:
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/bush2.JPG

Repeat on other side, put all the plastic bits back on car, lower, and enjoy!!

Results:
All shimmy is gone! Front suspension feels the best since I've had the car. Much less road vibration through the wheel. I don't feel the brake vibration I used to. No clunk feel when I hit bumps. In conclusion, this has put the 'Ultimate' back into the 'Ultimate Driving Machine'.:thumbup:

Of course after my high of completing this job and being thrilled by the results, my rear passenger window regulator went out on me!:bawling:

On your second picture it shows you used some kind of bracket or something similar, What is it? Do You really need it to press out the bushing? if so, where can I get one?

[ij1212]

I did the PF bushings but I only managed to put one washer on each side. Do you think this will have a negative effect? Any advice on whether I should just leave it alone as it is, take the washer out, or just keep trying to put the missing washer in?

[mhughett]

On your second picture it shows you used some kind of bracket or something similar, What is it? Do You really need it to press out the bushing? if so, where can I get one?

I don't know why everyone keeps trying to fit these "junk" parts into their BMW's. Yes, I tried it and I had the same problems as many here have had--only one washer will fit, squeaking and groaning after a few months, harsh ride, etc. On top of that, the shimmy I had move from 50 to 70mph, which is where I do most of my highway driving. These parts do not work well in our cars.

So how did I solve the problem--bought the OEM bushings and the OEM press sleeves and put them back in my car. Now, no shimmy and like-new ride again. Live and learn

By the way, the second picture in easyover's DIY is just a scrap piece of steel you need to push the old bushing out. I used a 1.4" thick piece of flat steel for mine.

[m5james]

Where is everyone buying their Powerflex bushings.....seems like Beastpower, Bimmerworld and PF's website is the only place to get them. I've seen FCP Groton parts w/ polyurethane bushings, so I might do that since the bushing is really the only end that goes bad. Opinions?

[djt5150]

Update on the powerflex bushings. I installed them back in November, about 6 months ago. See my first post just above.

This last week, my car started to make popping noises when turning the steering wheel or going over bumps. It was getting worse over the course of the week, so Friday night, I put the car on jack stands, removed the wheels.

My dad used a jack to move the A arm up and down, while I poked around with my mechanics stethoscope (Harbour Freight $2.99).

If you have read this entire thread, you will know that there has been some discussions on whether or not to use the big washers that come with the powerflex lower control arm bushings. Some guys report only using one of the washers, some guys didn't use either washer, and I used both by forcing them into the bracket with a jack.

Hear me now and believe me later...the big thick washers are a mistake. I knew it wasn't right when I installed them, but I wanted to follow the manufacturer's instructions (I actually called and talked to them personnally at the time).

The extra thickness of the washers was too tight in the bracket, and the washers were binding, which made them pop. The washers were actually bent (not flat anymore) due to the tightness of the assembly in the bracket. I greased them when they were installed, but it's just too much material to go into that bracket.

So, Friday night I removed the bushings, then I threw the washers over my shoulder, and then reinstalled the bushings. Now, this probably isn't the right thing to do either, but my car is quiet again. I'll probably get in there again in the next couple of weeks, and machine some stainless washers that fit precisely into the recess in the powerflex, so that the assembly is not any wider than the actual bushing. My thought is, without anything the bushings will wear down against the bracket over time.

[Beau6183]

16 months after install and my passenger side bushing has failed. Torque on the bolts is still right on, both washers are on, but the bushing has compressed and worn. Ordering OEM replacements now, they're cheaper than this crap is....
http://www.pictars.com/users/Beau/small/IMG_0154.JPG (http://www.pictars.com/users/Beau/IMG_0154.JPG/preview.html)

[ctxspy]

Anyone else have any long term updates on these bushings? My front end feels loose going over bumps / uneven surfaces, and i think i may tackle this sometime soon, but the 16 month failure doesn't seem to promising.:thumbdwn:

[m5james]

Anyone else have any long term updates on these bushings? My front end feels loose going over bumps / uneven surfaces, and i think i may tackle this sometime soon, but the 16 month failure doesn't seem to promising.:thumbdwn:

Is this in regards to the purple ones or the new black ones?

[m5james]

Any updates? Is purple or black the way to go.

[facedon]

Had mine fail too. More shimmy than I had before. Now going to insert OEM ones.

[m5james]

All these problems are w/ the purple ones, right? Is anyone writing Powerflex and letting them know, is there a fix, etc. This can't just be the end of the story.

[easyover]

Ok, been awhile since I've checked this thread (or posted on Bimmerfest for that matter!)

I did this in 10/07 with 77k on the car. So two years and 23K miles later, I have had zero, nada, nill problems with these bushings. Steering is still tight and responsive with no shimmy at speed or during braking. These were black PF with no shims/washers.

I do have a squeek when going over speed bumps. My struts are shot, so I don't know if it's the bushings or struts. Car is getting lowering springs and Bilstein Sports this weekend. I'll regrease and inspect the bushing while I have her down. I'll let everyone know what I find.

[Beau6183]

Yeah, I had the purple ones as well. Went back to OEM bushings -- cheaper parts, better feel. Would love to get my money back on the PF crap.

[easyover]

Had the bushings out while I did struts and springs this weekend. Most of the white lithium grease had either squeezed out or dried up. The bushings themselves showed no wear at all. I cleaned them up and re-lubed with a moly based grease in hopes that it will last longer. At 100K miles with the Bav Auto springs, Bilstein Sports, and PF thrust bushings, it feels like a brand new car! I can't believe the difference going from a non-sport suspension with worn out struts/shocks. Car handles like it's on rails!:thumbup:

[mhughett]

Yeah, I had the purple ones as well. Went back to OEM bushings -- cheaper parts, better feel. Would love to get my money back on the PF crap.

I did the same. Only left the PF ones in for about 3 months and they were squeaking and groaning like crazy and I had a shimmy about 75mph which is where I do most of my driving. Went back to OEM Boge's and everything is great again. Just got new Michelin tires too and it seems like the ride is better than new. Like Easyover, I got Bilstein Sports (but with BMW sport springs) that I've had for a couple years and I fully expect that they will last the life of the car. Now that I have the press and sleeves to replace the bushings myself, even if I have to replace them every couple of years, to get the improved ride it's worth it.

[stija]

I just replaced my bushings two days ago and after having about 250 miles on the purple powerflex bushings I want to report back and let you know.

A buddy and I did not have any real issues at all as far as pressing the old bushings out. We pushed it flush with a piece steel using the press pictured in easyover's post. Then we used a 1" inch ID steel washer we purchased at Lowes to push it from being flush to about half way in. This was done becuase C clamp is not big enough to fit everything with the bushing flush in the control arm. Then when we pushed it far enough to fit the C clamp we finally used one of the black rings that came with the press to push it as much as the receiving sleeve would allow it.

THEN we rented a three prong puller, the first one on the link below, rented from AutoZone to push the bushing the bushing all the way off.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accessoriesShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Tools&fromType=accessories&fromString=search&parentId=6-10&filterByKeyWord=puller&currentPage=1&navValue=101248&categoryNValue=100006&fromWhere=&itemId=1248-10&displayName=Jaw+Attachment+Puller

This was way easier than we expected. We were afraid we would spend 90% of our time trying to get the bushings out. That was NOT the case.

HOWEVER, we did have moderate amount of trouble pushing the thrust arm with the purple powerflex bushings back into its place on the chassis. We had to use a jack to push it through and align it because it would not fit. This was the hardest part of the project.

After 250+ miles the car has absolutely no shimmy at any speeds up to 100mph. It is not considerable stiffer although for some reason I think the steering is mildly stiffer (takes more strenght to turn the steering wheel).

We did not have any washers that come in the kit nor could we have fitted them inside if we had them. So far I am really satisfied with both the install and the results.

The old bushings are attached.