No start- Have fuel, spark and good compression

[pitch]

What am I missing? New spark plugs, firing order is right, 1-3-4-2, have gas, no blown fuses. I checked the resistance on the cam and crankshaft sensors. Crankshaft sensor tested fine, camshaft sensor tested zero so I replaced it. I pulled a plug and wire and cranked the car to verify spark. I pulled the fuel line before the fuel filter and cranked the car to verify the pump is pumping fuel. After I crank the car the plugs are soaked. Almost feels like it wants to start but won't. Need your help. Feel like I only have a couple options. 1) Replace ECU if I can find one. 2) Sell it and cut my losses.

BTW- 1998 318ti

[Pirate_copy]

Have you checked your compression?

[BMW_tech]

keep the accelerator pedal to the floor and do not pump it.while pedal to the floor crank it until it starts.if it does not start,one thing to look for is the crank sensor signal.if you have no means/ways of checking it then a tow trucked trip to an independent shop or preferred dealership is required.there,they can tell you wether it's an ECU or any other component.

[pitch]

Compression was 190, 185, 185, 180. I'm going to rent a code scanner today to see if anything comes up by chance. Only thing related that I can think of is that a couple of times lately on cold start the car would sound like its running on 3 cylinders until it warmed up for a couple minutes. Put in new spark plugs hoping it was the problem but no.

Have one independent shop here that I'll try if no codes come up. Hopefully they can diagnose it.

[romeo_n_uk]

hiya, i got the same problem with my 318is.. its 99.. everything checks out ok but it doesnt start...

some one told me it cud be an anti theft alarm issue, but i dont have any fitted.

did they come with factory fitted immobilisers in 99? does it have a key code? how do i get that? anywayz of getting it without goin to BMW centres coz they expensive?

[pitch]

I believe you are talking about EWS. I don't think you would have spark or fuel if it was immobilized.

[pitch]

Picked up a code reader, plugged it in, no codes. Assuming this is probably because I swapped batteries while it's been cranking and this cleared the codes. Now I'm definitely at a loss. No way to get the fault codes to reappear since I can't start it. Is it possible that the coolant temp sensor could be bad, which may cause it to communicate that it is way colder than it really is, which would cause the ECU to flood the car?
Edit/Delete Message

[BMW_tech]

Did you try to hold the accelerator pedal down while trying to start the car like I asked?

[pitch]

I'll go jump it and try, sorry, forgot about that part.

[BMW_tech]

Ill tell you why it is important and this is our secret OKAY?

Situation:

1.The engine may not start or may only start with the accelerator pedal depressed (throttle plate open) due to a binding idle control valve.

2.A whistling noise may be heard coming from the idle control valve with the engine at idle.


Cause:
1.The air gap between the rotary slide valve and the idle control valve housing may be too small causing the valve to bind in the closed position.
If the valve binds in the closed position, throttle plate by-pass air will be restricted during engine cranking thus causing a no / hard start condition.

2.The whistling noise from the idle control valve is caused by unfavorable tolerances between the idle control valve housing and the rotary slide valve.

New improved idle control valves have been phased into production on all M44 engines in 1/97.


Correction:
If the above symptoms are received a new style idle control valve, part number 13 41 1 435 846, should be installed.

[pitch]

No luck getting it to start. Was definitely flooded though. I pulled out the fuel pump and dme relays and pulled the spark plugs and cranked the engine several times. I had put a towel over the cylinders and the towel had four gas soaked rings on it. Turned the towel over and had the same result a few times. Will go out and continue to do it, hopefully get all of the excess fuel out. And I'll try your method again.

[drivinfaster]

not real familiar with this fuel system, have been out of auto repair for a few years, but it seems to me that your fuel delivery is at fault. it may be either pulling a vacuum from the evap system to the gas tank, which would indicate a faulty check valve, or a fuel pressure regulator malfunction (either vacuum operated regulator on the fuel rail has a ruptured diaphram, or on a returnless system the regulator integral to the fuel pump is stuck).
what i would do first is verify whether or not this has a vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator. if it does, remove the vacuum line. it should be dry. at this point to verify have an assistant turn the key to the on position while looking at the vacuum nipple. if fuel comes out with the 2 second prime you have a faulty regulator. replace it and change your oil. it is fuel saturated and will not do its job properly.
if returnless system, check for a nipple on the fuel rail to hook a gauge to. if none, then hook into the fuel system with a "t" fitting at the fuel filter and tur40-45n the key to the on position and check your 2 second prime and verify no leaks. do this at least 2 times to ensure there is no air in the reading and have an assistant crank the engine. i would suggest the injectors be unplugged while doing tis to reduce fuel in the oil. the pressure should not go above specs (42-44 psi should be good, but verify with your specific model)
if way above spec, figure on a fuel pump assembly. if fuel pressure drops off rapidly when the prime is done, suspect a leak at an injector. this can be checked by removing the rail (used compressed air to blow away any dirt or debris around the o-ring seals). have a set of new o-rings available just in case and some fresh clean silicone gel to lubricate on reinstalation. with the injector rail removed from the manifold have an assistant turn the key on and watch for fuel coming from the business end of the injector. DO NOT CRANK THE MOTOR unless you wish to spray fuel all over the engine bay, then by all means have at it. replace any leaky injector(s) and try to start. when sucessful, don't forget to change your oil.
hope this helps.

[BMW_tech]

No luck getting it to start. Was definitely flooded though. I pulled out the fuel pump and dme relays and pulled the spark plugs and cranked the engine several times. I had put a towel over the cylinders and the towel had four gas soaked rings on it. Turned the towel over and had the same result a few times. Will go out and continue to do it, hopefully get all of the excess fuel out. And I'll try your method again.

Pull the plugs out and crank it.It should not spray any fuel if it does not see spark.if it does,pull the fuel pump fuse.It may be easier to just go ahead and remove the idle valve (ICV) and clean it.

[pitch]

Well here's where I'm at. I removed the vac hose to the FPR and it was dry and no fuel came out of the nipple on the FPR. Then I checked power at the fuel pump again, with the ignition in the ON position, which was about 9.5 volts. Next I pressed the Schrader valve and only a dribble of fuel came out. I jumpered the fuel pump relay, which causes something in the engine bay to start running, but no power goes to the fuel pump.

If the fuel pump primes for a couple of seconds when the ignition is switched to on, shouldn't this pressurize the fuel system and a significant amount of fuel should come out of the schrader valve?

Also, I thought with the relay jumpered, there should be power to the fuel pump, but there is only power to the fuel pump when the ignition is on.