Interior Light Gremlin

[Atlantamark]

First post here - very excited to finally be in a BMW now. Just got a '96 318iC, and spending alot of time searching/reading threads for info. Issue now is minor, but worth reearching. The interior light (courtesy, up top near mirror) seems to come on and off (when switch is in door mode) at will, as if normal driving/road bumps are causing a short. Perhaps it's the switch in the light? Or has anyone ever had issues with the contact in the doors? Thanks in advance

[-Matt-]

Hi Mark,

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the 'fest :thumbup:

A likely place for your problem is the door microswitches. If you open the door there should be a small plastic plunger type button on the door near to the hinge. You can check the function of your lights by pressing this button. I would start by checking these switches for loosness, damage or for short circuits in the wiring leading to them.

[Atlantamark]

Thanks Matt - I'll check these out.

[Atlantamark]

thanks Matt

[im]

96 318c, very familiar..had it since 99...on the door striker plate...the plate on door frame...part on car..not on door...part the lock hits...look for tiny little switch...it is black and is part of striker plate..IT controls your windows up/down when you open doors..it controls the light inside your car...YES when the outside plastic on switch begins to wear down the light goes on/off at will AND side windows may bounce up/down about half an inch....
possible solutions:
1-purchase product called "PB blaster" from auto part..it is a spay can..home depot may have it also..$5 and using tube... spray that switch every direction possible and press it in while spraying.
2-i think it is size #40 torx..adjust the two torx bolts on striker plate...loosen both about two turns and move striker plate inward towards car/outward away a hair and tighten...try to find the sweet spot...
*i had a hell of a time trying to figure-out what was wrong with the dome light and windows and this fixed my problem....the PB blaster should do the trick by itself unless door is out of alignment or switch is badly worn..if badly worn then the torx bolt adjustment should solve your problem..

[im]

by the way:
the tube from the passenger side valve cover that goes to other side of engine is probably trashed if no-one ever changed it...will give bad idle..feel it from beginning to end and check for holes...if it feels very thin....change-it about $10 for generic rubber tube and the PVC disk shaped valve at other end that cost about $50 if rubber tube is shot..YOU will know you need the $50 piece if when you change the rubber tube..if engine is running you are unable to remove the oil fill cap with-out extreme umph..the valve cover gasket is a do it yourself and will require replacement about every 60-70K about $60 DIY...and any high pitched sound you hear in engine compartment will probably mean idle pulleys..parts that hold belt..again a DIY..change them when-ever you change the belts...
enjoy: reliable care but requires care, the convertible seems to require a new rear window after about 8 years..sew the top at the same time and save some $$

[Atlantamark]

Great tips - thanks IM

[Atlantamark]

Just applied a heavy dose of PB. In the meantime, I was looking at the door hinge/latch (on door, not frame) - it looks as if part of it may be missing some type of black coating - coincidentally where it would, I think, make contact with the microswitch. If this ever-so-thin layer of whatever coating were missing, it would seem possible that the switch would bounce on/off (with door closed) Has anyone else ever noticed this?