E39 540i Radiator Upgrades???

[Alex540]

I just had my upper neck on my radiator give out on me last night on my way home and have heard this is a problem on the early ones. Mine is a 97 so its the early one. Can anyone suggest a possible upgrade to a aluminum one or are the replacements better quality than the OEM?

[vietsb]

Not uncommon. Here's a good survey (http://www.votations.com/asp/surveyresults.asp?pollid=66461&lang=) showing that you aren't alone. I just bought a "spare" rad from Crevier for ~$140 (cheap). There are Nissens and Behr radiators and although I've heard the Nissens might be slightly better, that hasn't really been confirmed at all. Unfortunately, I haven't heard of anyone else making a good rad for our cars.

[PropellerHead]

It's not just the early ones- it's just that the early ones are usually closer to ~60k miles and that's about when they fail- the first time.

It is pretty much accepted fact that any V8 E39 radi is going to fail at around 60k miles. The fix is a new radi that will last for about another 60K miles. Some have suggested stiffer motor mounts may keep the motor from rocking- Maybe that's true. I don't know anyone who has done (or sourced) the mounts, since the stockers are liquid filled.

Anyone know why the liquid filled? Greater shock resistance for smoother ride? Hell, I'd buy ones like Zeckhausen offers for the tranny if I knew they'd keep my radi in one place.

[Ågent99]

Some have suggested that a longer radiator hose for the classic failure area might help. It was postulated that the hose gets pulled when the engine revs thereby pulling on the radiator hose extrusion. Do this a couple million times over 60,000 miles and you might break as well. :dunno:

In the end, there is no solution thus far save a new radiator. :mad:

Chris

[JEM]

Have to keep an eye on the 540, then, it's in the 60K zone.

I'd say a couple things:

1) Use BMW coolant, as incorrect pH values will leach the plasticizers out of plastic cooling system components and cause them to become brittle. Almost every automaker has a specific coolant formulation they use/recommend, they vary widely, and many of the chain-store coolant brands are far from the desired specs. The Glysantin G-05 that DaimlerChrysler uses (and which in theory is available as a Valvoline product now that US Chrysler is using it) is also supposed to be very good for plastics.

2) Make certain that no one overtightens the hose clamps.

3) The M5 has a different radiator-neck-and-hose system with a molded O-ring-sealed coupling on the end of the hose that attaches to the radiator with a snap-ring. I've heard that later non-M5 5-series also use this setup but I haven't personally looked.

I guess I'm the odd-one-out here, and I'm sure I'm tempting fate by saying this, but in several hundred thousand miles of driving cars with plastic radiator tanks I've never had a failure.

[Ågent99]

Originally posted by JEM
*snip*
I guess I'm the odd-one-out here, and I'm sure I'm tempting fate by saying this, but in several hundred thousand miles of driving cars with plastic radiator tanks I've never had a failure.

Well, now that that thought is "out there"...you are deeply and abidingly, how shall we say?, SCREWED? :p

Chris :eeps:

[johnlew]

My 540IAT is just under 100k miles and has not lost the radi. It's a 99.

[vietsb]

Originally posted by johnlew
My 540IAT is just under 100k miles and has not lost the radi. It's a 99.

According to the radiator failure survey, 98's and 99's still show a high probability of failure - usually around 60-70K mi. Hope you are past the hump.

Not as many iT's on the list, but I think that's just a statistical thing. :dunno:

[PropellerHead]

Originally posted by johnlew
My 540IAT is just under 100k miles and has not lost the radi. It's a 99. Are you certain it wasn't done before you got the car? IIRC, that engine was pretty nasty before you dressed it up. :jealous: Did you see any antifreeze residue?

[Ågent99]

Originally posted by vietsb
*snip*
Not as many iT's on the list, but I think that's just a statistical thing. :dunno:

The pundits would use anamolie instead of thing, Good Sir!.... :bustingup

...but I know English is your 3rd or 4th language, right! :D

Chris :rolleyes:

[vietsb]

I didn't want to infer that John's car was akin to a "cosmic anomaly" as I sometimes hear on Star Trek and other Sci-Fi shows...considering I'm illiterate and can only enjoy the English language by watching TV. I was simply being polite.

And BTW Mr. English Professor, there is no such word as anamolie (http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=anamolie). (SLAM-DUH-DA-DA) :slap:

I can say English is my second language. What's your excuse??? :dunno:

Hehe - ready for the flame board? ;)

Ah, time to get back to work at the sweatshop making Fruit-of-the-Loom t-shirts...

PS - I got the lithium battery soldered in place just fine and I'll be using a high-temp crimp/clamp to fix the other issue. Thanks for the $125 offer. :)

[Ågent99]

:D

had to give you something to chew on....

Chris

[vietsb]

Originally posted by Ågent99
:D

had to give you something to chew on....

No response? C'mon, I wanted to have a good old-fashioned H8LUUZN/M5 LiTE debate! jk

ttyl

[roxnadz]

Mine broke at 60,903 miles and peed all over the oil-filter housing, PS fluid reservoir and various lines before I caught it and had it replaced. Thankfully, it did not let go.

It's really a shame that the cooling systems in these cars are so bad. You'd think with a $60K ride they'd pay more attention to this.

[johnlew]

Originally posted by PropellerHead
Are you certain it wasn't done before you got the car? IIRC, that engine was pretty nasty before you dressed it up. :jealous: Did you see any antifreeze residue?

Well, you got my curiosity up and I went through all the service records (I know the owner and he gave them to me) and saw nothing relating to the radiator. Keep in mind also, the car just got it's first brake job at 96k miles! I didn't recall seeing any antifreeze residue or seepage and still don't see any. I'll be watching closer though. Thanks, I think. Is this the picture you mean?

http://www.bimmerfest.com/members/johnlew/540/b4engine.jpg

AFTER...

http://www.bimmerfest.com/members/johnlew/540/engine540.jpg

[CalvinH]

Wow John, that is remarkably clean! The before pic also emphasizes the improvement. Tell us what you did and what you used to get those results. Also what was the makeup of the dirtiness? (just dirt or a mix of dust, oil, ????)
Thanks,
Calvin H
2003 540i6

Not too dirty yet....

[johnlew]

Originally posted by CalvinH
Wow John, that is remarkably clean! The before pic also emphasizes the improvement. Tell us what you did and what you used to get those results. Also what was the makeup of the dirtiness? (just dirt or a mix of dust, oil, ????)
Thanks,
Calvin H
2003 540i6

Not too dirty yet....

It really was fairly simple since the "dirt" was almost all dust. The car's home was an island in South Carolina with no paved roads, so the dust and dirt was incredible. I simply used my Griot's pressure washer and gave the whole area a good blast...top, sides, bottom, underside of hood, etc. Then I blew it off with my compressor and gas blower, dried and detailed with some One Grand ERV dressing on some of the plastic and rubber. Really did come out quite well and has stayed that way with minimal maintenance. Here's a shot of the rear cargo area which was really bad.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/members/johnlew/540/b4cargo.jpg


http://www.bimmerfest.com/members/johnlew/540/cargo.jpg

[crete]

With just 350 miles on my new baby, I'm a long way from 60k, but I was wondering if there are any indications the radi is about to go. Like the temp gauge moves toward hot, or there is coolant residue aroung the hose / neck connector. Too bad it happens after the 50k warranty or did BMW extend coverage for the radi.

[Alex540]

my upper radiator hose keeps blowing off. Seems very weird because its on there so tight that i'm afraid i might crack the plastic. Any reason why it might be blowing off? Somebody told me that a bad head gasket would lead to increase pressure but i cannot verify this statement. Any ideas?

[JYG Y2k5285spCT]

if it is working correctly it should open up not blow a hose,

[dandanbaia]

My Thermostat started to leek because of a bad gasket on the left cynlinder head cover. it was going to cost $800 to replace the gaskets now it's going to cost 1200 to replace the water pump, and thermostat. DAMN!!!

[JEM]

My Thermostat started to leek because of a bad gasket on the left cynlinder head cover. it was going to cost $800 to replace the gaskets now it's going to cost 1200 to replace the water pump, and thermostat. DAMN!!!

Wow, five year thread resurrection.

I can't imagine the thermostat failing due to a cam-cover oil leak. E39 V8 thermostats fail because E39 thermostats fail, and E39 cam covers leak because BMW's seal material is crap and hardens.

Who quoted you those prices? Sounds quite dealership to me.

Now, I do most of my work myself, but it's about two hours of actual wrenching time (caveat as noted below) working my way through a decent bottle of Shiraz to R&R the cam cover seals. This is best done (if it's not leaking oil on the exhaust and you can wait) at an Inspection II when you do plugs too. The parts are about $80 if you get them from someone that doesn't mark them up 200% (our local dealer wants $3.50 each for the seals under the nuts!)

The biggest hassle with the cam-cover job is that the cam covers are magnesium alloy and BMW's paint bubbles off, making it impossible to get the new seal to seat well. Don't bother trying to clean this yourself, take them to a machine shop and have them beadblasted, then paint them (the paint will probably blister in a couple years, just like OE.) The anal-retentive will have the cam covers powder-coated, but be careful not to powder-coat the seal groove or you'll never get the new seal in. So, in the middle of those
two hours of wrenching, you've got a day of downtime while you run the cam covers out to have them cleaned or powder-coated.

As for the water pump and thermostat, that's, what, $250 in parts, plus coolant? I can R&R the entire cooling system on an E39 V8 in three hours (it is really the easiest water-pump job I've ever done in my life) and IMO any competent shop ought to be able to beat that - and that's including the radiator and coolant bottle (which you ought to change too if they haven't been done, another $300 in parts, they will fail eventually.) Do the hoses and serp belts at the same time for another $100.

[nanzio]

where can i get a good radiator and for how much?. mine also broke. trying to figure out ways to keep it on there tight for now.

[NFS]

My radiator neck broke twice at 55K and 115K miles which was 2 weeks ago. I bought the behr (oem) radiator for $140 USD.

[adjmcloon]

Ok, so interesting this old ass thread got revived.

What about adding some water wetter to the mix? Recommended?

Also, what is the deal with the main radiator hose (at the top) discoloring on the engine side? Is that a sign of a soon-to-blowout radiator?

[nanzio]

is there a specific 540 radiator, or does any 5 series radiator work for a 540?

[Mack]

Holy crap that has to be a record of some sort digging up a thread this old. 2003!!!!?? HAHA I wonder if some of those reporting years ago that had not had radiator crash have since? I'm bucking the system. 85k on my 02 525i and no blow yet (boy am I knocking on wood!)

[Alex540]

The current owner of my old 540i still has the radiator i installed in there, so its been about 4 years and about 40k miles later.

[Evilsizer]

according to the dealer mine hasnt been replaced. thats assuming the guy didnt DIY it, 88k on the clock, for a 2000 540i S/A. though i will prolly just do it anyway at 90k or wait till 95/96k...

[Alex540]

I also feel that some people become over zealous with tightening the hose clamps causing the plastic water necks to pre-maturely fail.