new to forum - have questions about 95 525i [Archive] - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

: new to forum - have questions about 95 525i

10-13-2008, 03:15 PM
Hello all, let me start off by saying im new to the site. Since the day I saw my first bmw ive always taken a liking to them. more so since I was remind every day by there sharp looks since a co-worker had owned one.

I am currently looking at a 1995 525i, with approximately 248,000km. I went to look at it this morning and this is what I found out:
So the lady shows up in the car it running and everything, I ask about things being replaced and probed very hard into its cooling system. All she said was that when she first bought the car it needed a thermostat. Seemed pretty normal for that age. she had shut it off, and I started it on my own. I looked at the dash and it had the engine light on and said that it had "low coolant". immediately im thinking crap this is a blown gasket. I noticed the rpm hunt around a little bit on start up approximately 2-300 rpm. I also noticed that the tail light warning was on. The front of the car was in a light accident likely drove into a curb and smashed out some plastic where the fog light? would be... not the end of the world. The light itself was in the trunk. The car also didn't seem to respond the the ACS button when I pushed it in park?!?!?!? - I thought something should light up on the gauge cluster?!?!? all I saw was this orange light with a "!" in it and I couldn't make it go away. The driver rear pwr window didnt work and there was loose molding on the car all the way around which I thought of just ripping off to clean it up.

Anywho I go to take it for a test drive and the ignition screws up... almost as if something broke in the tumbler mechanism. I have faith that I can fix this car but was really wondering what the low coolant level could be and how expensive the ignition could be to fix. I wondered if it had something to do with the security system?!?!? or did this just crap out on me? The price is right, but I dont want a money pit. Another thing against it is that its an automatic and I never got to test drive it. It sounds like an awfully risky deal but I figure she would let the car go for anywhere between $800 - $1000.

to sum it up, low coolant, faulty ignition, tcs may not work and odd idle (that idle may be normal?!?!?)

Your thoughts? possible cost to fix head gasket and ignition (part cost only)



10-13-2008, 03:23 PM
car has new tires, front end suspension is tight, new rad, nice interior, new 02 sensor, passed its last e-test which was perhaps one year ago as it is a 95....

10-13-2008, 05:43 PM
alright so i think i figured out the lock cylinder problem. Looks like im not alone on that one. I still need an answer on the rough idle and low coolant issue. could these be related?!?!?

10-13-2008, 06:46 PM
I'd say... get a car fax report... also, check if they have service records. Service records are worth the monies and you can also see how long the problem has been there if the mechanic has it on the notes. Other-wise, go low!

And them service lights.. I get them all the time. Their annoying.

Check out for some cool info on the car and DIYs :)

10-13-2008, 11:43 PM
Have a mechanic check out the car. Expect to spend some money to get the car brought up to your service standards. Low coolant could just be a bad coolant level sensor. They do act up. When were the plugs and air filter changed? In my opinion, the car has not been really serviced well nor repairs done as needed. The ASC worries me as that could be expensive.

bimmer dot info
10-14-2008, 06:41 AM
Sounds like it has quite a few problems. It might be worth it for $800.

10-14-2008, 09:47 AM
Yeah i would say about 800. the coolant light on my car always turn on and off when i start and turn it off the car. i had bought a new sensor, but it still does it. So im beting that its the same thing with you. But the Rpm doesnt have anything to do with the coolant. Most likely you have a vacuum leak thats why its at high rpm. The fog light on those year of the car wasnt held in very were. only by a screw. I took tmy fog lights and put a grill there. More air flow for the intercoolers. But i bet you just have a vacuum leak.

10-14-2008, 06:28 PM
yes... like I said. the idle moves around a little bit. but only a few hundred rpm. Not extremely noticeable by the seat of your pants. But you can clearly see it visibly on the tach. Does anyone know costs or a site that can give me a shopping cart so that I can see what i would need to invest. No fix is too big for me... Ive swapped motors, and trannies on other manufacture makes. I just dont want to over pay for a car with high km's. $800 bucks should be very do-able. I could possibly get it for less.

Im gonna try searching more about the tcs issue. Its kinda grey to me how it actually works. It must use the abs sensors and sense slippage at the rear wheels and modulate the throttle somehow to limit power? Can you adjust the tcs through programing or is it either on or off?

Anywho, thanks for the tips and getting me in the ball park.

10-14-2008, 06:58 PM
So lets see if I got this right. If the acs light on the display does not go out it means a component has failed in the traction control system. Does anyone know what things of that system are monitored? Also, if the asc is not working would that not come up as a engine code? Im quite sure I didnt see it say anything about acs being faulty. only low coolant and tail light.

Where is the acs control module located on the car? does anyone know where I can find an electrical pin out schematic on the net?

thanks for now

bimmer dot info
10-15-2008, 07:02 AM
Idle problem is probably the ICV. If you can clean it it is no big deal but if you need to replace, it is a pain.
ASC failure will not come up in the engine codes. You can read the asc codes with the right reader.

Search on this forum. there is are plenty of links to manuals and wiring diagrams.

10-15-2008, 07:06 AM
Yours has almost every thing mine has except the Acs, I don't have that option and the hunting iddle or the ignition problems. Most of the other things are easy fixes that even I can do. so it sounds good for about 800. I got mine for 1000.

10-15-2008, 06:58 PM
Thanks guys for the advice, I really appreciate all the help that I've gotten.

10-15-2008, 07:26 PM
I paid so much more for mine almost 6 years ago with 72,000 miles. One owner, older couple complete with records.

10-15-2008, 09:58 PM
I paid 1500 for mine. but mines a a real AcSnitzer

10-16-2008, 05:50 PM
you may have paid more but did they have many problems when you got your cars?!?!?

10-16-2008, 05:59 PM
you may have paid more but did they have many problems when you got your cars?!?!?

If you mean me. Just had to replace the cd changer and tighten up a few squeaks and rattles. Even so I went ahead and changed every filter and fluid in the car, over detailed it inside and out incuding the engine compartment and garaged it almost every night for 5 years.

Now over the past 90,000 miles my bigest issue has been the cooling sytem. They are weak on the e34. I have put a water pump and radiator in. In fact it had had 3 radiators and 3 water pumps during it's life. Not acceptable, but I understand most moden 3 and 5 series have similar issues.