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View Full Version : New Battery...No radio, power windows, seats, mirrors, or sunroof


seanr1976
10-19-2008, 03:03 PM
Hey Everybody

I couldn't help but notice this morning that my '89 535i wouldn't start. I jumped the car and took it to Checker and was told that my battery was indeed dead. Checker didn't stock the correct battery for my car, so I was sent to Auto Zone. Auto Zone sold me a Duralast battery for my car that cost about $100. I've installed the new battery, and the car starts and runs just fine; however, none of my accessories (like the radio, clock, windows, door locks, sunroof, or lighting) are working.

Do I have to cast a magic spell to get everything working? I've checked ALL fuses, and they are fine. If the battery and fuses are good, what else could be causing my problem?

Any advice you guys could provide would be appreciated.

UPDATE: I just spoke with a BMW dealer, and I was told that I should not be having this problem, so something out-of-the-ordinary must be wrong. Taking the car to the dealer for diagnosis would cost me $134.

seanr1976
10-20-2008, 06:00 PM
GOOD NEWS! Problem solved. Apparently, the smaller of the 2 red wires that connect to the positive terminal was not positioned EXACTLY the way it needed to be and so none of the accessory devices would work. I jiggled the wire a bit today, and everything came back on. Done deal.

EyeDoc1
10-21-2008, 04:47 PM
Take $50.00 and toss it into a coffee can in your garage for your next purchase, because you just SAVED youself $134.00 plus travel time, gas, and time away from family/work. Then when you need to buy something for a DIY project, you just "saved" $50.00. Good for you. Or buy a Bently manual.

Christen

jamesonx
10-24-2008, 11:41 AM
"6"][quote="jamesonx"]Just came back from the BMW Dealership......Its a test of wills there.
Have the infrequent dead battery problem. They say because that we don't drive enough it kills the battery due to all the "Computers" on board.
They tried to charge $500 for the new "special battery" and a battery minder...
I have had all sorts of vehicles, and this is ridiculous. You can leave a Honda in the garage for 8 months and it starts right up, but a BMW???? Dies if not paid enough attention to.........
Did research, their are alternatives,
I found the Specs to the OEM Odessey batttery and found that Autocraft and Sears have good products and warranties. Just be careful of the dimensions, because BMW like to shove the battery in the space of a shoe sock...........

Don't take any crap from the BMW Service Department, they are not your friend[/B]

rockin1978ta
10-25-2008, 05:02 PM
My wife backed her 89 535I out of the garage yesterday, and she said the radio went out then the engine started to idle ruff. When I got home I tried to turn it over, but the the battery was dead. I hooked a charger up. and let it charge for a few hours. Take in mind we bought this car a month ago, and the guy we bought it from only put about a hundred miles on it since it's last inspection this past Feburary. Started right up today, but the radio and the windows wouldn't work. I checked voltage, and it was at 12.3 running. Hmm, I jiggled the red wire that bolts to the positve terminal, and heard a click. Must be a circuit breaker. I jiggled it again and saw the radio light come on. Turns out this wire has some sort of circuit board/fusible link, soldered in , wrapped in electrical tape. I took off the tape, notice the silver connection was cracked. I soldered it back to gether, then took a piece of wire, and soldered that also. Car works great now. took it for a drive on the tollway, with a volt meter hooked up to the battery, and the meter in the front seat. Car runs about 13.5 volts now, with headlights and a/c on.

bimmer dot info
10-27-2008, 08:23 AM
Not a good idea to totally bypass the fusible link. If that wire ever shorts out it will probably set the car on fire.

rockin1978ta
10-27-2008, 11:42 AM
Your right, I'm worried about it myself, but as much trouble I've had with this car this month, maybe I'd be better off. I'm going to replace the link. I'm not sure if someonelse added this part though. Does anyone have the rating of the fusible link off the battery that controls the power windows, locks, radio, and computer? I have the Bentley book, but it's hard to read if it's 60 or 50 amps?

wizzwizz
10-29-2008, 02:53 AM
my friend had the same problem, every morning even after changing the battery his car was still dead, the garage changed the alternator, still dead the next day, then they changed the battery again, still dead the next day, then they said the starter motor had gone, changed that, still dead the next day-finally my friend found out from another friend that there is a little box under the car that deals with the alarms etc, dont know what its called but bmw would be able to tell you, i cant get hold of mate at the moment, anyway it cost around 80 dollars - job solved, fitted it himself, so after spending nearly 1000 dollars the garage need not have charged the car is running fine!!!!

ross1
10-29-2008, 06:20 AM
"6"][quote="jamesonx"]Just came back from the BMW Dealership......Its a test of wills there.
Have the infrequent dead battery problem. They say because that we don't drive enough it kills the battery due to all the "Computers" on board.
They tried to charge $500 for the new "special battery" and a battery minder...
I have had all sorts of vehicles, and this is ridiculous. You can leave a Honda in the garage for 8 months and it starts right up, but a BMW???? Dies if not paid enough attention to.........
Did research, their are alternatives,
I found the Specs to the OEM Odessey batttery and found that Autocraft and Sears have good products and warranties. Just be careful of the dimensions, because BMW like to shove the battery in the space of a shoe sock...........

Don't take any crap from the BMW Service Department, they are not your friend[/B]

Actually the battery tender was all that is needed. There are batteries that will stop delivering current to small loads once the voltage reaches a certain point to conserve their energy, once a high demand is required the reserve will become available.
Either of those solutions would have solved your problem.
Most of the devices should "go to sleep" after a while and not drain the battery so you may have other problems.
You asked the dealer for a solution and they offered one, overkill perhaps but a solution.
For their $100 hr labor charges one would have hoped for a more intelligent one.

BTW If you want to hold Honda up as a benchmark just go buy one.

E34forever
10-31-2008, 09:50 AM
There is a thick red wire connect to the battery and it has a flat fuse of 60amp, the fuse is very closed to the E34 frame and hard to soldered or tape it. That red wire cause many electrical issue and also it is connect to the DMV . Sometimes if giggled it makes a clicking sound.

attack eagle
11-01-2008, 03:56 PM
Your right, I'm worried about it myself, but as much trouble I've had with this car this month, maybe I'd be better off. I'm going to replace the link. I'm not sure if someonelse added this part though. Does anyone have the rating of the fusible link off the battery that controls the power windows, locks, radio, and computer? I have the Bentley book, but it's hard to read if it's 60 or 50 amps?

Justt use a 60 amp maxi fuse and holder, like those used for car audio applications.

IF it ever DOES blow, you cna buy a new one for a couple of bucks at any autoparts or stereo store, instead of being stranded until you can get the BMW part.

When mine fails that is what I will be doing.


ANd yes after a week of not running, a properly functioning e34 will drop your voltage to the point of difficult starting. Normal and the price you pay for having a built in alarm system, 7-8 computer modules, etc all sipping a few milliamps even when the car is off.