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CJ74753
11-17-2008, 09:46 PM
Been a while since I've been on but I made it back and now I'm determined to fix my car. On my 91 525i I have a few issues...
1. Around 60MPH my car likes to shake even with new tires balanced so I'm guessing I need a front end alignment? Can most shops do this or is this something only most BMW dealers know how to do?...thought I read somewhere where someone said something about only dealers
2. Is it possible to get the plastic pieces the sunroof control wires go into? Its the blue piece where all the wires fit into it so it can snap onto the sunroof control button.
3. My car has a vacuum leak. When you start it it sounds odd, and when you go to accelerate it becomes jerky and I've limited it down close to what I believe is the idle control valve that clips onto the intake manifold but it is underneath everything so its hard to see. What all connects to it that could be replaced as far as hoses and all that might need a change?
I tried finding diagrams on realoem but had no luck.

TxAg98
11-18-2008, 05:57 AM
The shudder is probably your thrust arm bushings. Do a search, plentiful how to's on how to change them.

The idle control valve on yours will be identical to mine. Its a T shaped valve. Has an electric plug on the base that faces the front of the car. The top of the T has one hose that plugs in to the intake manifold and one hose that plugs in to the intake elbow before the throttle body. If you think the ICV is bad, just pull it off and clean it. My problems were a combination of bad ICV, MAF, and O2 sensor.

Good luck!

bimmer dot info
11-18-2008, 07:56 AM
The shake at 60 is probably the thrust arm bushings. Almost anyone can do an "alignment" on the e34. The only thing that can be adjusted without replacing parts is the tie rods.

You can get almost any electrical connector. Finding the right part nubmer is the problem. You might be able to get the dealer to order it. It is easier to just cut one out of a junkyard car.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&hg=13&fg=15

CJ74753
11-18-2008, 04:39 PM
The shudder is probably your thrust arm bushings. Do a search, plentiful how to's on how to change them.

The idle control valve on yours will be identical to mine. Its a T shaped valve. Has an electric plug on the base that faces the front of the car. The top of the T has one hose that plugs in to the intake manifold and one hose that plugs in to the intake elbow before the throttle body. If you think the ICV is bad, just pull it off and clean it. My problems were a combination of bad ICV, MAF, and O2 sensor.

Good luck!

Well I'm not exactly sure what the piece is called...I think its the ICV. Its #9 here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&btnr=11_1124&hg=11&fg=40 its a connector and then it has a curved hose that connects to it. What would you suggest for replacements for the bushings? I've read everything from stock, upgraded to I think it was the e39 bushings, or powerflex bushings. Hopefully all I need is the bushings and not the entire arm. I had found a write up about changing the bushings without even taking the wheels off but now I can't find it again.

bimmer dot info
11-19-2008, 07:12 AM
I'd just go ahead and replace the entire arm. If you decide to replace the bushing make sure you can remove the arm without damaging the rubber boot on the balljoint.
I'm not sure how you would go about replacing the bushings without removing the arms. If you find that link please post it here.

Sboerem
11-19-2008, 10:36 AM
Correct me if I am wrong but are you refering to the DIY in the 5 series section on powerflex thrust arm bushing replacement posted by easyover. If so he is performing this on an e39 which looks different to what our e34's look like. It looks like his thrust arm is turned towards the front of the car where as ours are pointing toward the rear of the car. I can assure you, from just getting done with this fix quite recently, that it would be close to impossible to fit any type of press on the bushing while the ball joint is still attached. The control arm however you might be able to use this example for direction since they can drop straight down and have clearance to work on. I have heard of people removing the ball joint without damaging the rubber boot using a special ball joint removal tool but for me the ball joints were already shot so I just used a pickle fork and smacked them out. Hope this helps.

CJ74753
11-19-2008, 06:46 PM
Correct me if I am wrong but are you refering to the DIY in the 5 series section on powerflex thrust arm bushing replacement posted by easyover. If so he is performing this on an e39 which looks different to what our e34's look like. It looks like his thrust arm is turned towards the front of the car where as ours are pointing toward the rear of the car. I can assure you, from just getting done with this fix quite recently, that it would be close to impossible to fit any type of press on the bushing while the ball joint is still attached. The control arm however you might be able to use this example for direction since they can drop straight down and have clearance to work on. I have heard of people removing the ball joint without damaging the rubber boot using a special ball joint removal tool but for me the ball joints were already shot so I just used a pickle fork and smacked them out. Hope this helps.

Yeah, you were correct, it was easyover so it don't look like that applies to the e34 which is too bad. Where are the thrust bars located at on the real oem website?

Sboerem
11-19-2008, 06:53 PM
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=31_0250&hg=31&fg=05

Upper control arm (thrust arm) part # 7

Lower control arm part # 2

I did the search using my 92 525i, yours should be the same but check it anyway just put in all your info then go the front axle support.

CJ74753
11-19-2008, 07:11 PM
So I just need part #7? Any suggestions on the bushing as it don't look like it comes with the bushing. I didn't know if the M5 bushing would be any better for it or not, or what the opinions were as I'd read some people had upgraded them.

CJ74753
11-24-2008, 06:35 AM
Okay I'm going to try to fix my vacuum leak but I need some help knowing where its coming from and what needs to be replaced. Part 7 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=11_0954&hg=11&fg=40 clips to the intake manifold which then has this curved hose hooked to it http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=13-41-1-738-185-M9&I1.x=0&I1.y=0&FILTER_BE34=ON&FILTER_BMWM=ON&FILTER_TECH=ON&FILTER_SUPP=ON&FILTER_ACCE=ON&FILTER_CARE=ON&FILTER_STUF=ON&FILTER_PERF=ON&FILTER_MISC=ON&FILTER_GADG=ON&FILTER_TOOL=ON but I cannot see what else it connects to. Part 17 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=34_0285&hg=34&fg=25&hl=65 I bumped up against the small capped port of this plastic valve and it snapped off so now thats sucking air. And how do I fix a stuck sliding roof? Mine is stuck and won't open with the switch or manually, it does move some.

bimmer dot info
11-24-2008, 09:43 AM
The hose from part 7 connects to the ICV.
You will need to plug the leak on 17. Be careful. The replacement part is expensive.

Not much you can do about the sunroof. If it closes and does not leak I'd just leave it alone.

CJ74753
11-24-2008, 03:27 PM
The hose from part 7 connects to the ICV.
You will need to plug the leak on 17. Be careful. The replacement part is expensive.

Not much you can do about the sunroof. If it closes and does not leak I'd just leave it alone.
There has to be some way to fix the sunroof.
The previous owner had put some black putty that hardened up all along the seal, all of which I removed because it was ugly and I wanted a working sunroof. Don't tell me I wasted my time now...

bimmer dot info
11-25-2008, 07:13 AM
I'm sure there is a way to fix it. I just dont remember anyone actually trying to do it.
If you can not get it at least part way open I'm not sure how you would get it out without needing to break something.

If you find any info please post it and if you decide to repair it would be great if you took some pics and did a little writeup.

CJ74753
11-26-2008, 07:34 PM
Okay well can anyone go about telling me if and how to remove the ceiling panel thats connected to the sunroof so I can see the working parts. Does it just clip on or what?

abakos
11-26-2008, 08:49 PM
Okay well can anyone go about telling me if and how to remove the ceiling panel thats connected to the sunroof so I can see the working parts. Does it just clip on or what?
The whole ceiling panel? I think you have to remove the sun visers and the OS handles, then try to pop it loose. There might be some other hidden stuff around the pillars but I never tried to take the whole thing off before.

The shimmy up front means you almost certainly need TA bushings, and the M5 bushings are the preferred solution. For a while, the 750iL bushings (green) were the fix, and then somebody got wise and realized that the M bushings are tougher. I think the M bushing is solid rubber where the normal one and the green 7-series bushing are both oil filled.

I've pressed the bushings in before and I can't think of a way to do it without taking the arm out of the car. If you tear a boot, Urethane replacements used to be available from www.bmpdesign.com but I don't see them on their website now. Perhaps give them a call if you need some- It was also possible to buy arms from www.bmaparts.com with bushings pressed in place.

After driving an E34 for 7 years, I eventually came to the conclusion that it's necessary to replace the upper and lower arms and bushings at some point. When that time comes, it's best to replace all of them at the same time and be done with it. Also if the front shocks are whipped you'll want to strongly consider changing them at the same time. Excessive front end travel rips the hell out of the bushings...I spent years chasing that problem. The arm replacement isn't difficult if you have a basic mechanical instinct. A pickle fork, sledge hammer, and torch have also proved to be useful when doing the job :) Don't forget to tighten the bushing bolts only after the car is on the ground or on ramps (under load). You don't want to torque them and then set the car down, it'll put them in a twist and after a couple months you'll be doing the job again.

CJ74753
11-26-2008, 09:13 PM
Well I was talking about just removing the small ceiling panel that is attached to the sunroof if it is possible.
UPDATE: Well I got to looking and found out my sunroof does work it the seal was just still stuck to the car so after I broke the seal the sunroof started working. Some of which don't work exactly like it should I'm not thinking. The back of the sunroof has a rain gutter that slides with the sunroof does it not? Mine appears to be zip tied to the very back of the headliner, and both of the gates I think need to be replaced as you can see where they are cracked where the screws go into them.

CJ74753
12-01-2008, 09:10 PM
Does anyone have a better view or an exploded view of the sliding sunroof pieces? I need a better idea of how it works...http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=54_0148&hg=54&fg=05 Part #4 is the rain gutter and I need to know how it works cause the old one is zip tied to the very back of the sunroof hole. Was just hoping to get a better idea of what I needed to order so I wouldn't need to tear the car apart multiple times if possible.

abakos
12-03-2008, 07:24 PM
http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-index.php?page=Sunroof

Not sure if that will help answer any of your questions, but it's a personal favorite site for E34 questions-

I also think the E32 is the same as the E34, so check here for a pretty solid group of pics:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/288400

Good luck!

attack eagle
12-04-2008, 03:56 AM
take the headliner out of the car for sunroof work. once that is done it should be obvious.
to remove the insert/slider you have to open the sunroof fully so I'm guessing the PO had the liner out to zip tie stuff.

Sorry can;t help more, I only have a Touring with a double sunroof.
be glad you only have a sedan and a single panel... delete-able, and replaceable easily enough with a complete cartridge from a working car.

You can remove the complete sunroof assembly IF YOU HAVE TO from the car to fix it.

CJ74753
12-09-2008, 12:02 PM
Okay I bought a new air intake boot and some other hoses and my car is still not acting right. I can start driving and it seems fine till I get on the gas and it will start chugging/jerking and I'll have to downshift and get on the gas even more and it'll level out. I'm not sure whats going on whether its not getting enough gas or what it is.

CJ74753
12-11-2008, 11:58 AM
Bump...someone has to know whats going on here

bimmer dot info
12-11-2008, 01:32 PM
Are there any other symptoms than what you listed on the 9th?
Does the check engine light come on at all? Does it stay on after.

CJ74753
12-11-2008, 02:24 PM
Are there any other symptoms than what you listed on the 9th?
Does the check engine light come on at all? Does it stay on after.

No other symptoms...I replaced the air intake boot, the connectors that connect to it, the hose that runs from the boot to the ICV, the plastic piece and the curved rubber piece that connects to the intake manifold from the ICV. I thought that seemed to improve it but it might of just been in my head. An example of what its done is I was getting on the gas in 4th and the engine cut off for a split second and then cut back on(it does this in other gears too if the rpms aren't up high enough when accelerating in that gear). It accelerates fine if I slowly push down on the accelerator but if I push it down too far it wants to jerk then at which point I just downshift and accelerate. I'm not sure what is going on, if I remember correctly it seems like I've heard like a flap closing or something when it happens(I'm half asleep as I didn't sleep too well last night). So I'm not sure if its something to do with the MAF, vacuum, or fuel filter. Any clue?

Mark@EAC
12-11-2008, 08:07 PM
A fuel filter would be a cheap place to start.

www.eactuning.com/parts/product_details/13321270038

Also, I have had the sunroof out of an e39 5 series and as stated above, really the only way to repair it is to pull the headliner and possibly drop the whole sunroof cartridge.

bimmer dot info
12-12-2008, 07:27 AM
If you keep it in 1st or 2nd what RPM does the loss of power go away?
The slow application symptom sounds like you have a bad coil.
When was the last time you replaced the plugs? What kind did you use?

A fuel filter wouldnt hurt either.

CJ74753
01-08-2009, 09:08 PM
Oh wow...it didn't seem like its been that long since I've been here. Okay well I got around and ordered some new thrust arms and bushings and fuel filter that I plan to put on this weekend. No the power loss doesn't go away, I can be driving and start off and if I push down on the accelerator too much I can feel the car kinda jerk and it has even cut off for a split second on me before. Usually I just let off the gas a bit to stop the jerking or down shift if I need to get out of the way of something. Honestly I'm not sure the last time the plugs were changed, I bought the car in June of 2008. Sorry for such a late reply. Is there a way to test the coils?

EDIT: I had a link in my bookmarks that showed how to press the bushings into the control arms with a threaded bolt and I've seem to lost it. Does anyone remember the link?

bimmer dot info
01-09-2009, 09:08 AM
Change the plugs. If that does not fix it get 1 or 2 new coils and swap them in for the existing coils and test drive. Note any improvements and you will know which coils are weak or bad.
I think you can test the resistance. I did and they all showed up as good but swapping in a new coil fixed the problem.

You can probably rent a screw type press from autozone or you can have a shop use a hydraulic press to instal them.
I have not seen the link you are talking about.

CJ74753
01-09-2009, 07:29 PM
The link was very similar to this http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_26.htm but everything he made his from was readily available from Lowes Hardware I think but I might just go take it to a shop. Any opinions on spark plugs?

CJ74753
01-11-2009, 04:28 PM
Well my weekend just hasn't went all that great...I got my bushings pressed into my thrust arms but after that everything has went downhill. I couldn't get the ball joints broke loose no matter what I tried and NO one around had the small ball joint separator and the pickle fork wouldn't work. Guess I'm just going to have to order a small ball joint separator. I even tried a pitman arm remover as someone suggested and it was too big and I'm thinking it bent a ball joint on my tie rod when I tried to remove it :mad::mad: