Car Wax Help

[redcjwing]

What kind of Wax should i use on my black 328i and I really want to wax it now can i wax my car in the cold its about 39 F here.

[bimmerbarbie]

In the show car world, the rule of thumb for brands are Meguire's and Mother's. Here's my set-up once a month for my show car with custom paint, all year round (in that cold, if you have access to a heated garage, it'll make it easier for you, but the best bet is to read the label instructions on the product):
1. Wash the car with Meguire's car wash (kitchen dish soap will take off previous wax, so using quality car wash is a good idea. If you have too much of a wax build-up, it can make your paint hazy, but if you don't over-wax her, you should be good to go.); dry it with a good chamois if its chilly out, or take a break and let it dry before you wax, those waterspots don't matter all that much when you're waxing just add a little bit more elbow grease needed.
2. Wax the car with cleaner wax, and buff it off (my favorite is called Zymol cleaner wax and the only place I've found it is, surprisingly enough, Wal-Mart; it's a blue wax and its not only easy to buff off but it helps condition and clean the paint -- I use this every time I wax.) If you want to wax your seals and rubber/plastic pieces, check a small inconspicuous part first to make sure that the wax won't stain it. Waxing these pieces is not necessary in most cases, it's taken care of farther in the process.
3. Wax the car with Meguire's Carnuba Wax, Deep Crystal System, buff off. This is the last step to the waxing process so make sure you buff everything really well.
4. Using Mother's Back to Black on all plastic and rubber pieces and seals. Its an oil that conditions and adds shine. This stuff is magic! Prevents fading and in some cases (if the damage isn't too severe) can bring the plastic back to factory condition. I never skip this step. Careful with it on the paint, it can leave smudges.
5. Clean windows using Stoner's brand Window Cleaner (Windex will cause glare!) and newspaper, inside and out. Also be careful with this near your paint, it can leave smudgies as well.

Interior is a whole other world, and can take just as long. At shows or for a quick polish-up when I don't need new wax on the paint, I use TurleWax Ice Synthetic Polish. Please note: This is the ONLY TurtleWax product I use and endorse. Some of their products can actually dry out and increase wear and tear on the car's materials. The Ice Polish is relatively new and pretty hot in the show world: it's extremely quick to use and creates a gorgeous shine that you usually can only achieve with a buffer and polishing compounds.

There are various other brands that are promoted at shows, such as Jax systems, but in my experience they are much pricier, harder to restock when you run out, and have no extra benefits. Generally Mother's and Meguire's will get you through anything, but its a personal choice in most cases. This is just my preferred method after much experimentation.

If you're as OCD as I am, the most relied-on piece of equipment in my cleaning arsenal is a great quality chamois (my show car was tri-stage, black on top) that you keep in a case in the car. Waterspots drove me crazy, so I would give the black portions a once-over with the chamois when it was clean -- make sure the car doesn't have any dirt under the damp areas, or you will just grind the dirt into the paint and make swirls and scratches.

A really good detailing kit will end up being pretty expensive, but the best part is it will usually last you at least a year. Since you aren't showing, you will get a much longer life out of it as well. A lot of people go overboard with waxing, and as I said before be careful of this as it can dull your paint with a haze, as well as creating a wax buildup in corners and seams. Proper waxing is essential to the life of your paint, especially in southern climes due to severe sun damage. A new paint job is unbelievably expensive, and in most cases something that can be prevented with proper care.

I hope this helped you to some extent!

[E36 Phantom]

:thumbup:

Very similar to what I said not too long ago. Although, you should definitely claybar. That's a necessity for a car that hasn't had it done for a while.

[BoomKing]

the ICE wax works well. It a clear wax so you won't have any white residue which is always a plus on a black car.

but bimmerbarbie has it down to a science where as i just make my whip look spiff

[bimmerbarbie]

Claybar isn't always needed, depends on how damaged the paint is. And if its bad enough to need claybar, then I'd say invest in a good buffer, some serious polishing compound from a body shop and possibly even getting some new clear coat sprayed! Maybe its just me, but claybar is a pain and it's never helped out as much as a down and dirty buffing.

Yeah, if I'm seriously detailing, it can take up to 5 hours. And show days? Day before is completely devoted to show prep and cleaning, then the first two hours of set up at the show is more fine tuning. Its a pain, and the 5 hour session isn't really needed for every car... but I've got the trophies to prove it works! :) You don't get best in show for a dirty ride!

Oh, and for chamois, this sounds silly, but I like the Absorber more than the super expensive leather ones. They leave less streaks, take WAY less initial prep just to use, last longer, can be thrown in the washer when they need it. If you get one, do throw it in the wash before you use it, maybe even a couple times. They seem to perform much better after a couple washes or use.