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veerina
02-26-2009, 09:33 PM
Trans Fail Safe Warning
Hi Friends:

I have a 2003 BMW 530i with 46K miles on it. I got 'Trans Fail Safe Warning' couple of days back on the dash when I tried to start the car and it didnt start. I tried twice or thrice again after 5-10 min gaps and the car wouldnt start. Finally after a 1 hr gap I tried to start it before I had to call for a towing service and it started.

I drove straight to the dealer and after 48 hrs I was give this summary:

Weak battery test drive and unable to duplicate cut concern. Hooked up GT1 and short test found no fault in the EGS. Found fault in the DME and Instrument cluster fault. F/C EE DME: MISFIRE CYL.1 Due to low fule signal and instrument cluster fault. F/C.11 EGS signal line disturbed, Fault currently not present and the fault has occurred at least once. Also noticed vehicle have a slow crank. hook up Mitronics Battery Tester and test the battery and found battery 11.49V and 58CCA. Battery Rating at 765 CCA. Battery needs replace and if the battery weak and it is causing hte TRANS slipping also. Replacement cost of battery $565.00.

Can any body pls comment on the problem - if the transmission failed and if replacing the battery will solve the problem. I have other cars that never costed beyond $150max for battery replacement?

Thanks,
Veerina
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Fudman
02-27-2009, 03:58 AM
First off, did the tranny go into default mode (3d gear only). This is a tranny self preservation mode to allow you to limp to a dealer. If it did not, then the likely cause is a sensor initiated warning light. Even if it did engage, you could still have a faulty sensor. Many posts on this topic (do a search)

When I got my warning light w/tranny default, the dealer wanted to replace my tranny (at only 50K). I had them reset the OBC and the problem never recurred. So be wary of any dire warnings from the dealer.

But clearly, you need a new battery. Replacing the battery is an easy DIY (do a search). If you go to AutoZone, they may even do it for you. The battery (49DL) costs $89 there vice the dealer. Good luck

bschmidt25
02-27-2009, 08:03 AM
This may or may not apply as it happened on my A4, but I had a similar situation last summer. The battery went out and would barely start the car. I was just trying to get by that day until I could get another one. On more than one occasion, the light for EPC (Electronic Power Control - the drive by wire system for the car) came on immediately after start up. It would run (rough) but the accelerator didn't do anything. Turning the ignition off and on again would fix it. It's never happened after replacing the battery in June. My guess is that the battery didn't have enough voltage to start up that module.

In your case, that may be happening with the TCM. It definitely can't hurt to replace the battery first since you need it anyways. If that's the case, you're getting off cheap!

bmw_n00b13
02-27-2009, 08:17 AM
I rofl'd at that price. $565 for a battery? They don't call 'em the stealer for no reason. The guy obviously is new to a keyboard too; that wouldn't encourage me to go back there over an indy (mine can write english, and takes the time to).

bschmidt25
02-27-2009, 08:28 AM
I rofl'd at that price. $565 for a battery? They don't call 'em the stealer for no reason.

Man... I didn't even see that the first time around. That's ridiculous.

Adrian H
02-27-2009, 08:45 AM
Man... I didn't even see that the first time around. That's ridiculous.

Be glad we don't have to deal with the batteries on the 850's.... My aunt and uncle have one... Oh dear lord. It actually IS that expensive.

bmw_n00b13
02-27-2009, 10:25 AM
Be glad we don't have to deal with the batteries on the 850's.... My aunt and uncle have one... Oh dear lord. It actually IS that expensive.

****…that's why they're still $20k after 20 years?

veerina
02-27-2009, 10:37 AM
Thanks for all your replies and comments. I sincerely appreciate. I will first replace the battery and check out if the problem re-occurs with diagnostics at the dealer . What is OBC and how could it be reset.

540 M-Sport
02-27-2009, 10:44 AM
Go anywhere but your dealer for the battery. Granted he is including labor, but that is all of 15 minutes, so $25 for that. Bottom line, even from the dealer, the battery should be no more than $170, and you can get one at AutoZone (as previously mentioned) for $90. Batteries Plus has an even better, higher Cold Cranking Amps rated battery for $100 or so, it is rated at 900 CCA. It is also availabe in an absorbed glass mat construction which should give even longer life (8 to 10 yeas) for $150 or so. They are made by East Penn batteries.

Oh and yes, the new battery should fix your transmission fault codes. I had similar codes when my alternator failed. Apparently the computer is voltage sensitive and will send fault codes if the electrical system is not up to snuff.

Fudman
02-27-2009, 02:40 PM
Thanks for all your replies and comments. I sincerely appreciate. I will first replace the battery and check out if the problem re-occurs with diagnostics at the dealer . What is OBC and how could it be reset.

OBC is onboard computer. You will require a code scanner with code clearing capability (e.g. Peake). Not sure if Autozone will do this for you. The dealer should have cleared your codes after service (although they would recur if you start the car again).

dannyc9997
02-27-2009, 04:29 PM
Be glad we don't have to deal with the batteries on the 850's.... My aunt and uncle have one... Oh dear lord. It actually IS that expensive.

I think theres 2 batteries in those cars if I recall correctly.

Cool 530i
08-22-2009, 07:37 PM
Hello,
I've been getting the "trans fail safe" & the traction contol warning light (no abs), on & off for the past few days. According to the Peake reader I got the following 2 codes as per table 19:
53: Crankshaft sensor
F4: Flywheel Adaptation segment timing faulty

What do these codes mean?

The first time this warning popped up when the fuel tank was almost empty, I filled up the tank & reset the codes the next day the same warning popped up & transmission went into limp mode again. The gear indicators on the instrument panel display the correct gear selection i.e D or P or R. Here is a brief history of my 2001 530i auto with 146KKms:
For the past few months the abs & ASC lights have been coming on & off intermittently. The abs module was repaired last year and one of the rear speed sensor was replaced. CC, speedo, fuel consumption gauges all work fine even with ASC ABS lights on. The car has the SI2 done at 78KKms, by the previous owner. I'm not sure if tranny fluid was ever replaced.
I'll hook up the carsoft tomorrow to check what other codes are stored, until then I'm open to any suggestions & advise.
Thanks in advance

Cool 530i
08-23-2009, 02:06 PM
So today while stopped at stop light the car stalled. Started right back up (no lights) but after a couple of minutes of driving the check engine, trans fail safe and ASC (no abs) light came on. As usual the car went into limp mode and drove it back to home then hooked up the carsoft and the error codes found in DME, ASC and EGS modules.

DME:
83 Crankshaft position sensor 'A' circuit intermittent
123 Map cooling thermostat control circuit signal low/high

ABS/ASC:
33 Tachogenerator in front on the left of 5E38/E39 or in front on the right of (E46) incorrectly.
31 Tachogenerators cables in the back right incorrectly
75 ASC indication light

EGS:
150 CAN BUS- Timeout
149 CAN - ABS/DSC Techaogenerator

I erased all those codes and reset the EGS adaptation values. So if someone can please guide me to the right direction as to what parts I should be replacing/repairing.
Thanks.

bmw_n00b13
08-23-2009, 02:42 PM
Have you tested your battery?

The large number of issues that have cropped up overnight makes me wonder if there's a single component that's messed up. If so, it could be expensive.

On the face of it, you need your CPS replaced, thermostat replaced, wheel speed sensor on the front left wheel and rear right***8230;a lot of items***8230;

Cool 530i
08-23-2009, 04:13 PM
Thanks n00b, no I've not tested the battery yet. I ran the live data of EGS and the power supply field was fluctuating between 13.5 & 13.7 volts, I'm not sure if it was battery or alternator voltage. I'll get the battery checked tomorrow. Do you think if all these problem caused by running car on near empty gas tank?