PDA

View Full Version : 03 BMW Z4 Convertible Top Problem. Don't think its the motor!


Jermy1304
07-21-2009, 01:56 PM
I have an 2003 BMW Z4 3.0i with a convertible top problem. Very infrequently when i went to put the top down, the red indicator would just flash. Windows wouldn't go down. Top would not unlatch. It bit the bullet about 5 days ago and i took a look at it. The top takes 2 grown men to put down/up(Don't know if that is normal). The odd thing is when i get the top to about 1/3 the way from the lowered position, the top will work. The lower button works, and the top is pulled down and locked in. The top will go 1/3 the way back up with the button also. When i get 1/3 the way up, the red indicator just flashes and i have to manually raise it from there. I may be wrong, but I don't think this is a problem with the motor/pump. In that isolated range, the top works fine. I am hesitant to pull this thing apart without a good idea of what i'm looking to accomplish since i know this is a big job. anyone got any ideas? My alternative is to pay $20 for a BMW master tech to answer my question on justanswerDOTcom.

cavman
07-21-2009, 07:24 PM
I think it might be like a garage door. It might have lost it's travel range. The motor doesn't know where full close positon is or full open is. I think you might need to have a look at where the motor/s are located for the roof and see if there is a reset switch.

Good luck

CM

shipkiller
07-23-2009, 06:34 AM
"Very infrequently when i went to put the top down, the red indicator would just flash. Windows wouldn't go down. Top would not unlatch."The main cause of this (but not limited to) is normally the rear switch. (Convertible Compartment Floor Switch) This is a known issue.

"The top takes 2 grown men to put down/up(Don't know if that is normal)"Did you first pull/set the red hydraulic release handle located in the trunk? If you did not do this, the top WILL be very hard to move....

See this link on how to move the top manually:
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=11274

Personally, I really do think your electro-hydraulic motor is going out. Unless I read this wrong, the top goes down easier than going back up. Of course. It takes less hydraulic pressure to lower the top than it takes to raise the top.

Here are two links that tell you how to remove the top from the car and how to replace your motor:

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=10189

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=10190

basar13
07-23-2009, 10:06 AM
my motor changed

Jermy1304
07-26-2009, 05:01 PM
Shipkiller, I don't know if you could have made an "Instructional How-to" better than that. I was planning on pulling the top out Monday with a friend and this is beyond helpful. On behalf of everyone with a Z4 that this problem will most likely happen to during the ownership of the car, THANK YOU!

shipkiller
07-26-2009, 05:06 PM
Thanks.

Just make sure you seal the motor housing (Sound Insulation) well with RTV. I made sure that NO water will ever get into my new motor...

P2ayc
07-27-2009, 12:52 AM
I have an 2003 BMW Z4 3.0i with a convertible top problem. Very infrequently when i went to put the top down, the red indicator would just flash. Windows wouldn't go down. Top would not unlatch. It bit the bullet about 5 days ago and i took a look at it. The top takes 2 grown men to put down/up(Don't know if that is normal). The odd thing is when i get the top to about 1/3 the way from the lowered position, the top will work. The lower button works, and the top is pulled down and locked in. The top will go 1/3 the way back up with the button also. When i get 1/3 the way up, the red indicator just flashes and i have to manually raise it from there. I may be wrong, but I don't think this is a problem with the motor/pump. In that isolated range, the top works fine. I am hesitant to pull this thing apart without a good idea of what i'm looking to accomplish since i know this is a big job. anyone got any ideas? My alternative is to pay $20 for a BMW master tech to answer my question on justanswerDOTcom.


I may be off the mark - but when mine just flashes red & windows don't go down - I put the shelf up & then back down & it works. Seems to be something withthe contact from time to time.

Jermy1304
07-29-2009, 02:15 AM
P2ayc, I thought when the trunk compartment error light is a yellow solid led....I checked my trunk compartment and had a friend hold it all the way back while trying to open the top and nothing. the crazy thing is if i manually put it almost all the way down and lower it, the motor pulls it from 1/3 up position to down and goes click, click, click, click and the red led goes off signaling it is closed. When i try to put it back up it clicks then raises it 1/3 of the way and stops and flashes again. I am wondering about 4 different things. 1) Maybe it slipped off its tracks and doesn't know where it is in the open/close process...since it "remembers where it is at".. 2) The Trunk Compartment Switch is bad and it only affects the front 2/3 of the top lowering/raising motion. 3) A Weak electric motor 4) Maybe this top is driven by 2 hydraulic pumps, one raises it from the bottom to 1/3 raised and the other raises it the rest and that is bad. The terrible thing about this is there are 15+ things that can go wrong to make almost identical symptoms. I've got the top down and car cover on in the garage, and i'm pulling that top out tomorrow to waterproof the motor, clean and probably expand the size of the drain holes, and see what is going on...I hope i can get this fixed..I have 20 inch Beyern wheels, a tail light red out kit, a brushed aluminum illuminated shifter, and a imola red bmw emblem kit in the mail right now! I'll put pictures up after all the mods of course.

monfacile704
08-22-2009, 10:11 AM
i just reinstalled the convertible top on my 2003 z4 after rebuilding the hydrolic motor that lifts the top up and down. After reinstalling the top, the top goes up, but will not go down. The little motor that cinches down the top will not activate to release the top and the switch does not light. If I manually release the top by turning the motor with an allen key, the switch lights up and the bottom motor kicks in and brings the top down. Any suggestions on what could be wrong. The top motor locks in to close but is not unlocking to let the top down

shipkiller
08-22-2009, 11:21 AM
That sounds like the "Compartment Floor Switch" located on the back wall of your trunk (boot). That was the first problem I had with my top. The arm came off the switch, so I replaced it. A malfunctioning switch will let you raise the top but not lower it. Just make sure your top floor is in the DOWN position. You may want to cycle the floor up and down a few time to make sure. If that does not clear the problem, then remove the switch and activate it yourself while having a second person operate the top... If that fixes the problem, you can jumper out the switch until the new switch arrives.... This is a somewhat common problem with that switch. The arm falls off...

A picture of when I remove my Top. You can see the switch in the center of the rear firewall:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc36/shipkiller/BMWZ4/Softtop_removal/101_0053.jpg

Picture of the switch with the arm missing:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc36/shipkiller/Ragtop%20compartment%20floor/100_0215.jpg

The switch assembly:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc36/shipkiller/Ragtop%20compartment%20floor/100_0216.jpg

As seen through the rear window. Switch assembly removed:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc36/shipkiller/Ragtop%20compartment%20floor/100_0222.jpg

monfacile704
08-22-2009, 12:45 PM
I believe that that switch is good. I did what you said already and when the switch is activated the motor goes after i manually release the top motor. I believe that some sort of position sensor is bad, Do they exist and where are they?

monfacile704
08-22-2009, 12:46 PM
The top seems confused about its position on the way down and is stopping midway

shipkiller
08-22-2009, 01:36 PM
Attached are some drawings from the WDS on how it is wired up. They are not as good as seeing them on the screen. You will have to zoom in on part 1 & 2 to read them properly.

Before I go on. I have to ask the dumb questions. Are you SURE you got all the connectors attached. Since you pulled the top out, I know you now know the ones I am talking about. The ones to the control unit and the two connectors on the right side of the car? The ones behind the seats and trim...

From what I understand is there are only four sensors. The Softtop Floor, Softtop Lowered, Softtop Closed, Softtop Scuttle Released and Softtop Scuttle Locked.

I think the Scuttle is the locking mechanism on the front of the top. My 03 does not have the Hardtop Locating Point Hall Effect Sensor.

Hope this helps.

Here is what the WDS says:

Fully automatic convertible top

The fully automatic convertible top is a folding top fitted as an option.
The soft top is opened and closed hydraulically. When closed, the soft top is locked on the window frame via catches. The catches are driven by means of an electric drive. After opening, the soft top is stored in the convertible top compartment and locked in place by the catches.
Brief description of components

Convertible top module IV (CVM IV)

The convertible top module (CVM IV) controls and monitors the hydraulic and electrical drive and locking components of the folding top. The convertible top module also monitors the convertible top switch, the hydraulic pump and the locking drive, and saves any faults that occur in the fault memory.
The soft-top module is connected to the K bus.
General module

The power windows are controlled during soft-top operation by the general module of the central body electronics (ZKE). The general module therefore receives the information 'Open/close top' or 'Top complete closed' or 'Complete open' across the K bus.
Instrument cluster

The instrument cluster provides the convertible top module IV (CVM IV) via the K bus with the information 'Outside temperature' and "Vehicle moving" or "Vehicle stationary" (speed greater than/less than 4 km/h).
Exchange of information is across the K bus.
Hydraulic unit

The hydraulic unit creates the hydraulic pressure required for the top movement. The hydraulic unit consists of an oil reservoir that has an integrated pressure pump. All the hydraulic valves are integrated in the hydraulic unit. The hydraulic system is a closed, self-venting system. Topping up hydraulic fluid is not required.
The pressure pump is driven by a reversible DC motor. To change the direction of movement of the folding top, the direction of rotation of the pump motor is switched.
The pump only operates in the case of top movements. To prevent damage, the hydraulic unit is monitored by an integrated temperature sensor. At a temperature of 105C, the pump in the hydraulic system is switched off. The soft top can then only be moved by hand.
Hydraulic rotary drives

The soft top is moved in two directions by dual-action hydraulic rotary drives for opening and closing. Here, the racks of the hydraulic cylinder engage in pinions that convert the longitudinal movement of the hydraulic cylinder into a rotary motion. The pinions transfer the rotary motion across the main bearings to the convertible top frame. The hydraulic rotary drives are fitted on the left and right in the main pillar on the main bearings of the convertible top frame.
Soft-top locking mechanism

For the soft-top locking mechanism, there are two catches which are opened or closed by an electric motor.
When closed, the soft top is locked on the window frame (cowl panel) via catches.
After placing in the convertible top compartment, the soft top is also locked in place by the catches.
In the event of an electrical function failing, emergency release is possible by hand.
Convertible top switch and condition indicator

The convertible top switches are fitted in the switching center in the center console. There are separate switches for opening and closing the soft top.
For the display of the active and/or receding state, red and yellow LEDs are fitted beside the convertible top switch:
The red LED lights up while the top is moving. When one of the final positions is reached (top stored in the convertible top compartment or locked on the cowl panel), it is switched off. The LED flashes when the convertible top switch is released while the top is not in one of the two final positions.
The yellow LED lights up when the convertible top switch or the convenience function sends a request for opening while the convertible top compartment floor is not down.
Hall sensors

In order to detect the convertible top position and the two final positions of the locking mechanism, non-contact switches (Hall sensors) are used. The Hall sensors for identification of the convertible top position are fitted on the right-hand main convertible top bearing. The Hall sensors for the cowl panel lock are located on the cowl panel lock in the front convertible top bow strut. The information from the Hall sensors is processed in the convertible top module IV (CVM IV).
Convertible top compartment floor switch

The convertible top compartment switch is a ground-switching contact that generates the signal "Floor down" when the convertible top compartment floor is located in the lowest position. As long as this information is not present, the soft top cannot be unlocked and opened.
The convertible top compartment floor switch is fitted on the folding mechanism of the convertible top compartment floor.
Hardtop locating points

Contact plates are fitted in each of the two hardtop locating points at the main convertible top bearings. Each contact plate has a contact for power supply of the rear window heating and a contact for hardtop detection.
Main functions

It is possible to open / close the convertible top by means of:


Convertible top switch (open and close)
Convenience closing and convenience opening
via door lock or remote control (coding-data-dependent!)

The following conditions must be met at one time for automatic movement of the top:


General module can lower the window without faults
Vehicle standstill (v < 4 km/h)
No hardtop fitted (only applies to closing)
Ignition key position as of terminal R (not in the case of convenience function)
No short circuit and no breaks in wiring present
Outside temperature has not fallen below limit value

Opening the top with the convertible top switch

Pressing the convertible top switch for "Open top" opens the soft top according to the following sequence:


Windows are lowered (power window activated for 1.5 seconds if one window is detected as closed).
Lock hooks are opened. The convertible top is unlocked at the front cowl panel
The convertible top is moved backwards
Convertible top is stored in the convertible top compartment
The locking hooks are closed
The top is locked in the center in the convertible top compartment
Red LED goes out
Windows are raised (2 seconds after locking)

Closing the top with the convertible top switch

Pressing the convertible top switch for "Close top" closes the soft top according to the following sequence:


Windows are lowered (power window activated for 1.5 seconds if one window is detected as closed).
The locking hooks are opened and the catch in the center of the top is released.
The convertible top is lifted out of convertible top compartment
The convertible top is moved forwards
Locking hooks are inserted in the cowl panel
The locking hooks are closed and the top is locked at the cowl panel
Red LED goes out
Windows are raised (2 seconds after locking)

NOTE: If the convertible top switch is released during closing and opening, the movement and locking of the folding top is interrupted immediately. As there is no blocking of the drive, only the self-regulation system of the mechanical system and the hydraulic rotary drive have an effect. Pressing the convertible top switch again restarts the stopped movement.
Convenience opening/closing

The driver's door lock opens or closes the top in the following sequence:


Insert the ignition key in the driver's door lock
Turn the ignition key to the right and hold in this position
The general module (GM) immediately sends the telegram "Convenience operation" to the convertible top module IV (CVM IV)
The remainder of the sequence is the same as for "Opening the top with the convertible top switch", Steps 1 to 7.
Turn the ignition key to the left and remove
NOTE: Closing with the driver's door lock (convenience closing) is no longer possible as of terminal R.

Rear-window defroster (demister)

As long as the soft top is locked and terminal R is on, the convertible top module IV (CVM IV) provides a signal for control of the rear window heating.
Power supply for the rear window heating of the soft top comes from the convertible top wiring harness. If the hardtop is fitted, the power supply for the rear window heating is by means of contact plates on the rear hardtop locating points.
Hardtop detection

If a hardtop is fitted, a contact that closes to ground generates the signal "V_SPERR" which blocks the "Close" function.
Storage locking

To release: On completion of an opening procedure, the soft top is stored in the convertible top compartment and locked in place. As interlock, the central locking lug of the cowl panel lock engages in the retainer on the convertible top compartment.
To close: At the start of a closing operation, the cowl panel lock is operated first. Here, the center locking lug of the cowl panel lock is moved in. This disengages the mechanical interlock.
Cowl panel lock

Locking and unlocking the folding top on the cowl panel (upper window frame) takes place electromechanically with the cowl panel lock in the front convertible top bow strut. To this end, there are locking hooks on the left and right of the cowl panel lock.
For closing the folding top, the locking hooks are closed and locked after entering the cowl panel.
The rotary motion of the spindles of the cowl panel lock required for opening and closing is generated by a direct current motor with angle gear. The direct current motor with angle gear is located in the center of the front convertible top bow strut. The rotary motion is transferred via flexible shafts.
Emergency closing / emergency opening

In the event of failure of electrical and/or hydraulic functions, the top can be opened and closed using emergency unlocking/locking systems.
Emergency closing:


In the luggage compartment on the left-hand side below the convertible top compartment floor, pull out the plastic ring attached to a Bowden cable as far as it will go.
With a 90-degree turn, lock the plastic handle in this position.
In the hydraulic unit, a short circuit is enabled, making it possible to open and close the folding top by hand.
Pull the handle of the Bowden cable in the rear panel of the luggage compartment.
The interlock in the convertible top compartment is released.
Move the top forwards by hand until it reaches the cowl panel.
Take the Allen key from the on-board toolkit.
Remove the plastic panel from the front roof brace.
Insert the Allen key in the uncovered internal hexagon.
Lock and unlock the cowl panel lock by turning the Allen key.
Take out and replace the Allen key.

Emergency opening:


Perform steps 1 and 2 as well as 5 to 7 from 'Emergency closing'.
Unlock and open the cowl panel lock by turning the Allen key.
Take out and replace the Allen key.
Move the top backwards until it reaches the convertible top compartment


Edit: Adding a more files.

monfacile704
08-22-2009, 04:31 PM
Before I continue I just want to thank you again for all of the information that you have provided me with. There is no issue at all with the top rising up. Works fine if it is manualy released and I want to use the electric power top. The issue is on the going down. I press the down button and there is nothing. no red light nothing. If I manually release it by using the allen key on that small motor and press it with my hand, it blinks when it is released "red blink" It will then go down if I hold the button, but it stops a little more then halfway.. I know that that a tiny switch broke of the mounting somehow when I put the top back on, and I glued it back in place and dabbed a wad of silicone over it to keep it from moving anywhere. one screw that held it and it snapped off from the one screw mount. I crazy glued it exactly back and wadded silicone around it to hold it snug. I am wondering if that was the up position switch. It looks like a 1 cm box with a wire going to it. It is right next to where the top bolts back into the car. Could it be faulty by the way I glued it. I called the dealership and that switch is 130 bucks. I dont want to replace it and if find out it is something different that is wrong. Any thoughts?

Chris

monfacile704
08-22-2009, 04:54 PM
When i get back to my friends garage i am going to disconnect and reconnect the battery Will that reset the control module?

shipkiller
08-22-2009, 04:58 PM
Is that switch shown in any of the pictures in my last post? It sounds like the switch is activating or deactivating during movement of the frame when is should not be. Dollars to donuts that is your problem.

shipkiller
08-22-2009, 05:01 PM
When i get back to my friends garage i am going to disconnect and reconnect the battery Will that reset the control module?

yes. Leave the battery off for at least 10 minutes but I don't think it will fix the problem. It's worth a shot..

monfacile704
08-29-2009, 11:48 AM
Shipkiller,

Thank you so much for your help and info. The problem turned out to be that sensor switch. When I glued it back in place, it was glued 90 degrees off turn. Pulled everything apart and re glued it exactly where it broke of the holding screw. Perfect repair and all is back together. I think that I can pull off the top of that car now in less than 15 minutes.

birchescrest
09-20-2009, 02:26 PM
i just reinstalled the convertible top on my 2003 z4 after rebuilding the hydrolic motor that lifts the top up and down. After reinstalling the top, the top goes up, but will not go down. The little motor that cinches down the top will not activate to release the top and the switch does not light. If I manually release the top by turning the motor with an allen key, the switch lights up and the bottom motor kicks in and brings the top down. Any suggestions on what could be wrong. The top motor locks in to close but is not unlocking to let the top down

Hi Monfacile704, You mention that you rebuilt your motor. Have you completely stripped it down and rebuilt it? I have removed my temperamental roof and found the hydraulic motor bathing in a nice pool of rusty water. Looking at the motor I cant see any easy way to open it up without beaking it, is there any way of opening the motor so you can clean the bushes etc as the motor isnt completely shot and still has some life in it.

P.S. BIG thanks to shipkiller for all the instructions; I would not have even thought about removing the roof without it!

monfacile704
09-27-2009, 07:46 PM
I brought it to a local shop. Cost me a hundred and fifty bucks as opposed to the thirteen hundred that BMW wanted for a new motor. They rebuilt my motor and it is as good as new. I had to buy the hydrolic fluid from BMW and that was 60 bucks for less than a pint. If you have a small motor, starter/ alternateur guy by you, he can probably rebuild the motor for you. Good Luck with that. Your motor can probably be rebuilt

Jermy1304
09-28-2009, 12:19 PM
the motor is only $375 brand new from ECSTUNING.COM

drclark
05-01-2010, 03:48 PM
Well, it finally happened. My convertible top motor failed. The latch motor works but there is not a sound coming from the previously moaning motor that raises and lowers the top. I can't afford to fix it now but would still like to lower the top manually. However, when I tried to pull the red ring in the trunk, it doesn't budge at all, not even a fraction of an inch. The manual says to pull the ring and move 90 degrees from the original position when experiencing an electrical malfunction. The ring doesn't pull out at all. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.:mad:

RMeter
05-13-2010, 10:16 AM
the motor is only $375 brand new from ECSTUNING.COM

Jermy I also bought a new motor from ECS however the hydro lines on the new motor are in different positions. Did you change the hyrdro line positions of the 14, 12 and 13, 11 to match the new motor or did you keep them in the same spot as the old motor? Also did you wire it green wire to green and blue wire to red?

craig01b
05-14-2010, 05:20 AM
When I did mine, it worked fine until i reinstalled all the hoop, and buttoned everything up....was rather confused, since it worked before. With the power back on the car, and me, moving the roof during the install of the hoop, it seemed to confuse the module. At that point, I found a wiring diagram, and since everything goes thru that module, i figured a power reset might cure it....it did...Much like a bloody Airbus......Although, I had no red flashing light, the roof moved, but only a couple of inches at a time, and a 2 second delay before it would move again. It would fully open and close, just took 10 minutes to do. After the reset, operation has been flawless.

C

craig01b
05-14-2010, 05:22 AM
drclark....exactly same as mine. You have little choice but to replace it. I found, that with even pressure (i used a small jack to hold the roof open as I removed stuff) I found that the bypass was working, but extremely slowly. I ended up with the roof in the mid position which made the remove simpler.

Good luck

C

fatmurphy
03-29-2011, 10:23 AM
Do you know where I can find a similar procedure and operation sequence for a 95 325iC? My top does not work electrically at all. Just got the car and it's one of the first things I want to troubleshoot.

shipkiller
03-29-2011, 10:53 AM
Sorry, no clue since I do not own a 3-series...

ryushe
08-04-2011, 12:33 PM
That sounds like the "Compartment Floor Switch" located on the back wall of your trunk (boot). That was the first problem I had with my top. The arm came off the switch, so I replaced it.

Picture of the switch with the arm missing:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc36/shipkiller/Ragtop%20compartment%20floor/100_0215.jpg

The switch assembly:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc36/shipkiller/Ragtop%20compartment%20floor/100_0216.jpg

That's exactly my issue. Does that plastic part with the switch inside simply click or slide out of the rear firewall? Or is there a trick to removing it? I've ordered the new switch (minus the plastic cover) but want to take out the part in the meantime to see if can jury-rig it for now. Weather is too nice not to drive around with top down.

Thanks.

shipkiller
08-04-2011, 12:47 PM
The whole assembly is held by one Torx screw. Remove the screw, pull the assembly out and disconnect the switch. You can then take a piece of wire and jumper the socket until you receive the new switch.

ryushe
08-04-2011, 01:04 PM
The whole assembly is held by one Torx screw.
I assume it's the lower of the two holes in the plastic part based off of your pictures?
Thanks for the information though, most informative. I would not have guessed at first that it could be this switch. Here's hoping that's all that's wrong with it!

Thanks again!

Abdul aziz
04-18-2013, 11:34 PM
Can you help me by showing me how to remove the rooftop, if possible through a video??? Any help will be appreciated!

shipkiller
04-19-2013, 08:30 AM
No videos.

Just look at the DIY's on this site. There are two of them, how to remove the softtop and how to replace the motor.
Pretty self explanatory.

Deros50
04-19-2013, 09:37 AM
Replaced my top last year. Since then top closes slow and It sounds like the hydraulic fluid builds up pressure until it has enough force to move the linkage. Not sure if the fluid needs to be toped up and if this is the case, can it be done without taking the top off.



Thanks


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

shipkiller
04-19-2013, 07:08 PM
can it be done without taking the top off.



Thanks


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

This has been discussed here on several occasions.

But if you think you need more fluid, then you have bigger issues than low fluid.

craig01b
04-22-2013, 04:53 AM
And, if you find the arm, the switch can be reassembled quite easily....overstaffing the trunk with groceries and stuff can make the deck floor bounce up and down, that switch if pushed the wrong way it is quite fragile.

Awkward spot, I use a very long extension and it makes it easier....also, undoing the flap attached to the floor that moves up and down for the roof space, gives you easy access to the upper screw of the switch.

RiN
06-11-2013, 01:29 PM
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/01%20E85%20Complete%20Vehicle.pdf

page 23 onwards, find on E85 Complete Vehicle Tab.

Your Welcome:bigpimp:

dixieflyer09
06-11-2013, 07:31 PM
I want to THANK YOU for all your time...you have helped so many...! I had the problem with the top going down...thanks to you, I lowered the 'floor'...tried again, the windows came half-way down...the top was un-latched and then nothing! so, I put it down myself...but, could not get it to go back up!! I hate to use the 'female' word but I am! I really get into a car and expect it to work and if doesn't...I am LOST! I live in the country so I would have to take my little car there...but, again I sure do thank you for your all you have done for me and others...ps my Dad was a marine aviator in all wars, Vietnam and Korea and the Bay of Pigs...I thank you, Sir!

dixieflyer09
06-11-2013, 07:32 PM
your wife's car is just like mine...The Black Cat!!

asurber
10-12-2013, 09:11 AM
I contacted the dealer and everyone else and they told me I had a bad pump/motor. The first thing I did was pull the switch in the trunk and check it, it worked fine. the next thing I did was find a small guage wire and jump the switch wiring harness to simulate a closed switch. The top worked fine! What turned out is the connector for the switch in the trunk was dirty, not allowing it to make good contact. I cleaned it and haven't had any problems for 6 months! If I would have brought it in I believe they would have gone right to the motor, replacing the switch also. I guess this is the same thing I would have done if I didn't get lucky and jump the harness. Saved $1500.00! :)

WVpaid4it
04-20-2014, 06:00 PM
After reading all the posts I originally thought the motor is the problem on mine ... However with reading this "switch" info ... I'm not so sure that may be it.. How can I determine the difference? When I turn the key and push the down button ... I only get a solid red light .. No sound, no movement, no nothing


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

dc_wright
04-20-2014, 07:28 PM
After reading all the posts I originally thought the motor is the problem on mine ... However with reading this "switch" info ... I'm not so sure that may be it.. How can I determine the difference? When I turn the key and push the down button ... I only get a solid red light .. No sound, no movement, no nothing


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

Are you seeing a solid red light or an orange light? When the switch is indicating the compartment floor is in the up position an orange light, just slightly lower than the normal top operation red light, is illuminated. It's not a greatly different shade than the usual red, but if you look closely you'd see a difference.
When my main motor died, the forward latch motor still operated. If your storage floor switch is bad the forward latch motor won't run.

shipkiller
04-21-2014, 03:40 AM
If the Compartment Floor switch is faulty, the motor will not OPEN the top.
If you open the top (use the manual procedure) and attempt to CLOSE the top normally and it works, that proves the Compartment Floor switch is GOOD......