View Full Version : Here With New Car!! 93 BMW 525i
12-06-2009, 07:45 PM
O.k. So i am sort of new here I posted a while back about a friends car.... Anyways I just bought a 93 BMW 525i, I bought it from the original owner with all documents and paper work the car is in great shape, there are just a few minor problems that the seller didn't want to get into or put any more money into the car to get it fixed... they are as follows...
1.) he said the car would over heat, Well i drove it for about 45-60 minutes today and it didn't over heat the only thing i noticed was that the Temp gauge would go from halfway to all the way and then back again it would jump around but no signs of over heating..
2.) i went to put the heat on and it blew cold, I then tried again later and it blew warm but not as warm as it should be, So i read on the forums here to bleed the system because there is probably air bubbles in the heater core, so i think that might fix problem 1 and 2.. no smoking or bad smells or anything...
3.) I noticed when i was driving the car that the SRS light stayed on the entire time is that normal for a BMW or is a sensor not working for the safety belts or something???
4.) In the Information window where the gauges are there is a message that says "Trans Program" not sure what that means or what to check for that one?? any ideas...
Other then that the car ran great and it was a nice smooth drive for the little bit of time i had it out... I am looking forward to getting this thing fixed up and ready to go asap!!! thanks for the help in advance!!
12-07-2009, 02:15 PM
Hope you got it for cheap, and prepared to drop some money in it very quickly. I would first start with the cheap methods first; bleed the system, replace temp sensor if needed, and run a diagnostic to see why the trans program is coming up. These cars have a very fragile cooling system, so if the water pump, radiator, thermostat, thermostat housing, accessory belts, and coolant hoses haven't been replaced in the last ~60,000 miles, I would start preparing to. The trans program could be something serious, or since you made no mention of any issues with it, may be something stupid. Regardless, I would get both those looked at VERY quickly.
12-07-2009, 03:14 PM
I did get the car for cheap... lol that is why i picked it up i figured i would have to dump some money into it to get it running perfect, When i was driving it on a test run for about 45 minutes nothing out of the ordinary just those couple things i mentioned i do have to get it inspected as it needs inspection next month, So i figured i would mess around see what i can figure out and what ever i can't ill let my mechanic see what he can do with the rest thanks for the help let me know if you think of anything else
12-07-2009, 08:29 PM
the trans program light is caused by transmission, does it slip around corners?, you could always go to aamco and get a transmission flush and filter change, it works great you will be suprised if you have trans problems.
12-08-2009, 03:03 PM
When i drove the car for about an hour the other day i had no slipping or anything?? that is why i was confused about the "trans Program" i thought i would have felt something off with the trans but nothing at all?? I might just have it flushed and have a new filter installed when i go to get it inspected if i can't figure it out....
12-10-2009, 11:48 PM
I also agree with all of you about the 'Trans Program' and that it can also be caused by electrical faults like the car charging system, tranny ECU sensors and fuses.
So just get the car diagnosed and fault code printed.
12-12-2009, 09:55 AM
OK!!!!!!!!!! Well im back i finally got some time to work on the old car!! well here is what i found out and fixed so far, I charged the battery checked all the fuses and did some minor cleaning of the throttle body and positioning sensors.. re connected the battery turned the car over and no "TRANS PROGRAM" Light!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Drove it around and everything was fine except now i have the SRS light blinking the whole time i buckled the seat belt and still same thing, Checked the passenger side seat belt and no change still blinking?? So i think im going to take the seat apart and see if there is something going on with the SRS light... I Also tried to get the bubbles out of the coolant system i thought i did it right but i still have absolouty no heat inside the cab none at all?? i tried finding the direction on here to try again because maybe i didn't do something right, but having no luck :( let me know what else you guys got for me!!!
P.S. I also have a leak of exhaust where the header is connected to the rest of the system is this common on the old cars i think i may need a new header because so far what i can see the rest of the exhaust system is new.. Where is the best place to buy parts for these things??? thanks again for all the help! im really starting to like BMW's LOL
12-12-2009, 03:02 PM
Glad you resolved the "Trans Program" warning. :thumbup:
Low battery voltage can cause all kinds of weird stuff to happen - or not happen ;)
The SRS Light is a warning for the Supplementary Restraint System, aka Airbag! If the Steering Wheel was removed then that can trigger the light or it could be a problem with the SRS system. I believe that the circuit has to be reset using the diagnostic computer at a dealer, although there might be a way of doing this by jumering pins on the OBD port as we do for the Service reminder. Anybody know?:dunno:
Usually the exhaust leaks are due to the O-Rings at the joint of the Header/Exhaust system failing and needing replacement. The Header itself is seldom the problem.
12-12-2009, 05:27 PM
Ok sounds good i look up new O ring for the header, Other then that the car seems to be running great and strong!!! i just need to fix up the SRS light and i should be good to go other then the no heat problem :( that i will have to fix since its getting colder out and and i will need the heat!! thanks for the help ill keep everyone informed on whats going on with my new project
12-13-2009, 02:13 AM
Very nice find. I also have a 93 525i. The SRS light comes on if ANYTHING concerning the Airbags is messed with. If you remove the steering wheel, either of the front seats, or even fudge with the 2 orange boxes under the hood...... which is what i did to cause my light to come on. I have searched and searched, but the only way to reset the light is to have a dealer do it.
12-13-2009, 02:32 PM
As mentioned before, the SRS light will come on if ANYTHING is messed with, and will remain on (even if no fault is present) until the light is reset. Usually you need to go to a dealership to do this, however you can purchase a SRS light reset tool from Bavauto. This is not cheap though (~$140).
As far as the no heat, I got a question for you: when you turn the dials on the climate control over to full heat, are you also moving the switch on the center vents to full heat? While the main passenger/driver controls can be on full heat, if the center vent one is on cool, the center vents will only blow cold. Switch it over to red and they will blow hot. Sometimes this switch gets broken and will remain on cold/hot. A good test for it is that the floor vents should still blow hot if the drivers switch is on full heat, regardless of the center vent.
12-13-2009, 10:11 PM
I will try the heat trick, tomorrow i am pretty positive i have everything set to heat but i will double check my self, I hope it is something stupid i have looked over... As far as the SRS light i will make an appointment at the dealer to get that reset hopefully it is nothing big... Also i have a couple more questions... I have no interior lights when the doors are opened, etc.... which fuse or where would the fuse be located for those lights i checked the bulbs some are bad and some are good i am replacing all them tomorrow, The dash lights work fine, just the courtesy lights and map lights i got nothing even after messing with the switches, is there a fuse schematic or do you know which fuse it is??? also how do you reset the oil change indicator? is that also a dealer thing or is there a way for it to be reset manually?? thanks again
12-15-2009, 03:21 PM
Still No Heat??? Not Sure what else to do, The car runs fine, the coolant must need to be bleed again can someone list a step by step so i can get it right this time, i think i rushed things last time and didn't do it properly??? thanks
12-16-2009, 11:29 AM
O.k. Well i bleed the radiator again, and still no results the temp gauge stays right at 12 o clock.. so we are good there... i kept checking to see if i had heat inside the vehicle. well i found out that there is heat coming out of the drivers side deforster and thats it??? could it be something else?? no im stumped??? it is about 38 degrees here and i need to get the car inspected i was hoping to drop it off this weekend but im not going too unless i can't figure out this heat thing because i don't want to get charged an arm and a leg for the mechanic to check that out and fix that problem?? so i am not sure where to go from here, as far as i know the radiator should be bleed right... i just need to figure out why there would not be heat?? any ideas??? thanks
12-17-2009, 01:54 PM
12-17-2009, 03:52 PM
Sounds like an HVAC issue. You probably need to start diagnosing things one step at a time. Stuck HVAC flaps could be the issue, broken dial/switch/wire to control the separate temps, and a slew of other things, HVAC issues can be a bit of a headache to diagnose because everything is hidden behind the dash.
Other things to look for are the heater valves (located next to the positive jump port under the hood), or even a clogged heater core (usually thanks to someone uses a stop-leak).
12-17-2009, 06:36 PM
Clogged heater core is exactly what i was thinking.............. when i was a kid, i used to take both heater hoses off at the local power car wash, take that wand thing and jam it in one of the hoses, and run the high pressure water through the heater core. You would not believe the crap that would come out of those things.
HOWEVER, i am pretty sure the heater on the e34 has 3 hoses going into various heat valves and in and out of the heater core. I would look on realOEM.com for a diagram of the hose routing if that's something you might want to do.
ALSO, it would be a good idea the check if the flaps and cables are working in(behind) the dash itself. If the flaps are sprung closed with no cable attached, the heater core may be working perfectly, with nowhere to send the heat like WOLF said above.
12-20-2009, 10:53 AM
I think you should check your watervalve located on the left in the engine bay.Most off the time there is the problem.I think for your car it is partnumber 64 11 8 391 417
12-25-2009, 11:22 PM
The heater valve defaults to open (max heat). I have yet to see one fail closed, but it is possible.
There's also a chance someone got the heater hoses mixed up. I believe there is a check valve in the heater core to prevent it from flowing backwards. (At least we had an E32 that had the hoses switched and no heat--another shop replaced the valve thinking that to be the problem).
As far as the transmission goes, if you want to keep the car, DON'T FLUSH IT. I can personally recount dozens of stories of flushing a trans and having it take a dump immediately after. If the transmission is indeed marginal, drop the pans and replace the filter. Don't take it to AAMCO unless you have unlimited money to spend on getting f**ked in the wrong door. (If you do I suggest finding a hooker, much cheaper and better results). Take it to someone that has a scan tool to read the codes. You don't need the dealer to do it.
Same with the airbag light. Take it to a shop that has a Snap-On or OTC or other scan tool with the Euro software, they can reset all the lights and read your codes. I can't count how many times individuals take it to the dealer to get an airbag light reset when a local indy often has the software and can and will do it for a box of donuts (although donuts get old, try mixing it up a little!) or for a couple bucks. With my Snap-on brick (old scan tool) I can get into the DME, EGS, airbag, ABS, climate control, and I think there was another, can't remember. If you do need to remove the seats or steering wheel, DON'T turn the key on. The SRS computer won't know anything is happening unless it's powered up. It's like changing the hardware on a PC, if you do it when the computer is off, it's all good. You only freak it out if you do it when it's running.
12-26-2009, 06:56 PM
I am going to check those couple valves and hoses for the heater core to see if thats the problem, Other then that every thing else is good besides the SRS light the trans light hasn't come on since i bought the car and charged up the battery, and everything else seems to work great well besides the heat of coarse... If it is not the hoses i think it might be my heat controls i was just moving them around and i noticed that the left warm/cold knob has a little resistance like it is suppose to, but the passenger side has none you can spin it either all the way hot or cold...??? so it could be that... I will check out the hose situation this week and i hope its that because i really want to drive this thing!!! thanks for all the help ill keep you all posted let me know if there is anything else thanks!!
12-26-2009, 07:43 PM
I don't have my camera with me otherwise I'd take a picture right now to show you exactly how the hoses should be routed. I'll try to describe it though:
The hose from the back of the head runs to the auxiliary water pump (the device closest to the firewall with two hose fittings and a two-wire electrical connector. From there, a short hose connects the water pump to the water valves. One hose enters, two exit. These go to the two fittings closest to the driver's side fender. The farthest right (passenger's side fender) goes to the water distribution hose (the big expensive one) under the intake manifold and ends up at the belt-driven water pump. I'm not 100% sure which way coolant flows through the system (I assume it's coming from the head).
If the hoses are connected like that, then check the auxiliary water pump and the heater water valves. Do you get any heat at all if you rev it up? The water pump is there for heater performance at idle. Unplug the water valves and see if you get any heat. With the valves unplugged, you are forcing it to max heat. If still no heat, either the heater core is full of air or it is plugged (or the valves could be stuck closed). How does the rest of the cooling system look? Any sludge buildup? It took a couple days to bleed the air out of mine when I replaced my heater water valve, but my symptoms were the exact opposite of yours and the most common mode of failure on the HWVs--too much heat.
12-27-2009, 08:53 PM
O.k. Ill check that out tomorrow and let you know how that goes.. i will get on that later in the afternoon i have a couple of things to do tomorrow since its my only day off this week.. then im gonna check those lines and see what i get... thanks again ill let you know the progress!!
12-27-2009, 09:52 PM
when I got my 91 the heater didn't blow hot air, and the srs light would stay on. I changed the cabin filter and solved the problem here is a link
as for the SRS i took it to a local independant shop they shut it off for $40.00 no more light
01-02-2010, 10:05 AM
I am about to go outside and work on the Bimmer in this 29 degree weather so i will let you know how it goes and if i can get the heat going i will check and replace the cabin filter first.. Hopefully i can get the heat going because that is the only thing keeping me from driving the car!! I'll let you know how it goes and what i find out, Thanks
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.