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rummajor
12-11-2009, 11:03 AM
Hey guys, I am curious here if anyone knows if low transmission fluid could possibly cause the engine to stall. The stalling typically occursafter the engine is fully warmed up when stopped in traffic or at a light. There is also sometimes a slight hesitation (hic-up) on initial acceleration. No problem with top-end power. Mass airflow sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, throttle position sensor, vacuum hoses etc, check out as good. 1992 525i M50 non vanos.

jenlex
12-11-2009, 03:44 PM
I do not know how to call this in english so here is my maybe stupid translation out off dutch......

Stepping engine we call it:eek:.It is a round device connected to some hoses and it should be on the left side off the engine.It measures the air that goes into the engine and it has a valve in it.Through the years it gets dirty inside and then it does not work properly.Clean it with brake cleaner and then check if it is better,

Hope you understand what I mean with this ridicilous translation.

Alex

rummajor
12-11-2009, 05:31 PM
I think you may be thinking of the idle control valve. If so I have removed it cleaned and replaced it and no change.

tmertz
01-02-2010, 10:00 PM
Brake cleaner! Never but on brakes! Maf cleaner kid ouch..: ouch

macgy
01-04-2010, 09:31 PM
you probably have to change the idle control valve then and have you clean the MAF?

Ryan M
01-04-2010, 09:34 PM
Hey guys, I am curious here if anyone knows if low transmission fluid could possibly cause the engine to stall. The stalling typically occursafter the engine is fully warmed up when stopped in traffic or at a light. There is also sometimes a slight hesitation (hic-up) on initial acceleration. No problem with top-end power. Mass airflow sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, throttle position sensor, vacuum hoses etc, check out as good. 1992 525i M50 non vanos.

Sounds a lot like the mass airflow sensor (MAF). Do you have trouble restarting the car when it's hot?

Difficult hot starts, stalling, and falling on it's face when you first hit the gas, are classic signs.

ferland
01-09-2010, 08:19 AM
I tend to start simple and work my up. it may sound silly but have you had the fuel filter changed recently? fueled up at a gas station that you don't normally go to? If the filter is restricted on acceleration the fuel pump might be able push the fuel through when the demand is high. If you have had the filter changed could you have purchased some bad gas. stations with low volume sales may develop water problems in there tanks.

rummajor
05-15-2010, 05:45 PM
I have been caught up with so much stuff lately I had to put the car on hold but I still have not solved the problem of the stallin once the engine gets hot. The fuel filter is new oxygen sensor is new the usual suspects check out as good but it still happens. If I shift into neutral when I come to a red light or stop it does not stall if it si a long stop it will surge and you feel the brake pedal push up against your foot but it does not stall. Once you stop and leave the car in gear typically within thirty seconds it stalls. I starts up fine, no hesitation whatsoever. I'm still stumped. Any help is appreciated, Thanks.

rummajor
06-28-2010, 09:59 AM
I cannot believe there is no one who has had this kind of issue and found a fix. Help.

Passntyme
06-28-2010, 10:18 AM
When the car stalls ohm out the crank sensor and or the cam sensor. I've seen these kill a car dead and then start right up again. (thermal intermittant condition) crank sensor should ohm out at 530 ~1100 ohms. suspect the cam sensor is right in there too. I just went thru this on a honda accord...check it out.

rummajor
06-28-2010, 07:57 PM
I am now leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator being the problem. I will have to get the necessary equipment to do the tests on the fuel delivery system but in changing the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator I was able to reproduce the sound tha I hear whenever the engine stalls. Its a kind of a hiss like pressure being released from a valve. Has anyone ever had the stalling symptoms i have as a result of a bad fuelpressure regulator? :dunno:

gricey
06-29-2010, 09:45 AM
I am now leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator being the problem. I will have to get the necessary equipment to do the tests on the fuel delivery system but in changing the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator I was able to reproduce the sound tha I hear whenever the engine stalls. Its a kind of a hiss like pressure being released from a valve. Has anyone ever had the stalling symptoms i have as a result of a bad fuelpressure regulator? :dunno:

I have pretty much the same problem with my m60b30. I changed the fpr as i was it starting on the second try. It solved the starting problem but not the warm stall. have you disconected your maf, what happens when you do that?

I get the hissing noise too. I believe it has something to do with the ICV or the MAF.

Are you getting any codes?

Just to add, I have replaced a bunch of parts chasing this down, including all vacuum lines, valve cover gaskets, injectors, fpr, plug boots, a coil etc.... pretty much everything bar the ICV and MAF

rummajor
06-29-2010, 10:59 AM
I have cleaned the ICV and tested the terminals which all are in spec, checked if the ICV is buzzing when ignition is on and it is. I have tested the MAF and it comes out as good and when i unplug it the idle goes to hell and it triggers a code for the MAF. I changed the vacuum line from the FPR and when the engine is running and I pull the end that plugs into the intake the engine stalls and gives off the same hissing sound I usually hear when it stalls. I will run tests as soon as i can to determine if the FPR is shot. That's where I am right now its just real frustrating.

gricey
06-29-2010, 11:30 AM
When i umplug my maf, nothing happens....Nada.

I drove home with the maf unplugged the other day, mine ran better

cpnwrench
06-29-2010, 09:46 PM
:smokin:

Rummajor...think you should change that fuel press regulator...if you are removing vacuum from the engine and it stalls then your regulator isn't sending enough fuel to the rail for the injectors to operate properly....am really surprised you don't have a code in the CPU.. also a very dumb question here.....

When your car is idling (whether warm or hot) what is the idle speed in RPMs?

mine is right around 800. does yours drop significantly when idling in drive vs. in neutral or park? It should not.

Also as the dutchman previously stated...if you have an automatic, there is a vent hose from the tranny to the manifold of the engine (some have 'em some don't) check that hose as there is a lso a pressure solenoid in most auto tranny's which need that proper vacuum to operate the torque in the right way.

anyway just some suggestions... also find a good BMW mech (not dealer) and see what he thinks..

take care..and best of luck

cpnwrench

:smokin:

rummajor
06-30-2010, 04:15 PM
The rpm is usually right around 750 in neutral and in gear at idle around 650-700. I guess it wont hurt changing the FPR. As for that hose from the transmission I will have to do some checking. Thanks for the imput man every little bit helps:thumbup:.

Passntyme
07-30-2010, 09:10 AM
Only a coulpe things cause a stall, fuel or spark. it's not getting enough of one or the other. You really need to OHM out all the sensors to see if they are within the proper operating values. sometimes when the engine is warm ~ hot these values change. check them cold as you have no problems then, and then check them hot after stalling. see who changed the most drastically. you can then verify the results by useng a can of air upside down (will come out liuid and freeze component) and retest\check then see if car stalls while component is still cooler than when it origanlly stalled. This applies to fuel pressure as well, check pressure cold and then hot. BMW parts are somewhat expensive so it pays to really check things carefully before throwing parts at it.

Are ya throwing codes?

Good luck!

93bimmer325I
06-24-2011, 12:21 PM
I have a 1993 BMW 325I. I bought this thing last year before Winter began and it ran great.....until the weather heated up. Now, it runs great and starts with no issues when its cold outside. When I drive it and it reaches normal operating temperature, it wants to stall out....only when Im at an intersection or stopped at a light or stop sign. It starts right back up no problem though and idles perfect in Park or Neutral. Can anyone help? This has been going on for months. I have changed the Mass Air FLow Sensor and it still hasnt changed. I just bought a coolant temp sensor as I read here it may be it also. Next will be the Idle Conmtrol Valve which runs over $230 at my local Autozone. Hope someone can help before I put tons into this car. Thanks!!

mygalLucy
06-25-2011, 05:09 PM
Im having the same problem, have replaced 02 sensor, tps, coolant temp sensor, replaced all air hoses and cleaned the crap out of her, and its getting worse, i can barely drive a mile or two and it will die. I used to be able to shut it off and re start and get it to drive fine again. I hope we both can figure this out, Im stressed and just found out Im pregnant and need to get this girl running good again! in the cooler weather, she runs PURFECT!

ThoreauHD
06-25-2011, 09:25 PM
If you get no code from a stomp test, then replace the idle control valve.

luckydog
06-25-2011, 10:38 PM
Ok the majority of no starts,hard starts, stalls and poor performance reports have been linked to fuel pump failing,and idle control vacuum hoses coming off under intake manifold.

93bimmer325I
06-26-2011, 10:34 AM
Okay guys and girls......think I found the culprit. I called a bmw shop and spoke directly to the owner, who has owned this shop and worked on bimmers for over 20yrs. He said he is 99.9% sure its the idle control valve. I looked under the hood for over an hour but could not find it. So..Tuesday he wants me to bring it in and he will take a look at it and have it up and running great...with no more stalling. Hope this helps. Will report back this week with results.

jricky74
04-02-2013, 02:00 PM
Okay guys and girls......think I found the culprit. I called a bmw shop and spoke directly to the owner, who has owned this shop and worked on bimmers for over 20yrs. He said he is 99.9% sure its the idle control valve. I looked under the hood for over an hour but could not find it. So..Tuesday he wants me to bring it in and he will take a look at it and have it up and running great...with no more stalling. Hope this helps. Will report back this week with results.

so what happened agter you took it into the shop was it the icv

snowsled7
04-02-2013, 08:07 PM
Please check the date on the post you are relying too;) You asked a question of a post from almost two years ago.

Thanks for using the search before starting a new thread though:thumbup: