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View Full Version : DIY - guibo joint / flex disc / universal joint replacement procedure thread


Keif
03-29-2010, 01:29 PM
Feeling some drivetrain/shifting slack - and my car being at 138K miles and 8-ish years old - I figured I'd go ahead and replace my guibo joint / flex disc / universal joint. I haven't yet seen any pictures on doing this yet, so I figured I'd go ahead and do it / post pictures.

The basic procedure is:

Drop exhaust system
Drop heat shields
Drop transmission mount
Drop driveshaft (CV joint at rear, center mount, then guibo joint)


So far I have the exhaust system down and the heat shields off. Had to take the car down to shut the garage door, but will hopefully have it in the air again and finish in the next few days.

Because the space in which I chose to do this is limited, I'm going to make an attempt to skip #3 and replace the guibo joint without dropping the transmission mount. Stay tuned for updates.

See pictures / procedure --> here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28107540@N02/sets/72157623599676461/).
 

KSO745Li
03-29-2010, 01:34 PM
Let us know if you feel a difference... Great thread BTW, I'm not a DIYer but I'm sure this will be useful to many members.

BnWBMW
03-29-2010, 01:42 PM
I really really really appreciate this Keif!

Keif coming through in the clutch again

bmw74me
03-29-2010, 05:11 PM
thanks keef .....looking for you final result

robohopar
03-29-2010, 06:25 PM
amazing DIY...props man.

Seven11
03-29-2010, 08:24 PM
i just had mine done at the dealer

they charged the warranty company about $1000

i had rough shifts, i wonder if that would fix the problem

robohopar
03-30-2010, 02:12 AM
i just had mine done at the dealer

they charged the warranty company about $1000

i had rough shifts, i wonder if that would fix the problem

definitely will make it better...i had the same problem. jesus...$1000 for the guibo???

wow what a rip

Keif
03-30-2010, 06:39 AM
+1. If I had a lift, this would almost be a trivial task.

Judd944
03-30-2010, 06:50 AM
+1. If I had a lift, this would almost be a trivial task.

what about a pit? ;)

BnWBMW
03-30-2010, 10:00 AM
definitely will make it better...i had the same problem. jesus...$1000 for the guibo???

wow what a rip

it's really like $150 for the guibo. How can they justify $850 in labor? that's like 10 hours worth of labor at most shops

Keif
03-30-2010, 10:57 AM
what about a pit? ;)

Still all kinds of jealous of your pit!

gringojj
03-31-2010, 07:33 AM
Could you please list all the parts needed to do this job? I am going to get all the parts together and have my mechanic do it.

Thanks!

Keif
03-31-2010, 08:37 PM
The guibo joint / flex disc / universal joint, part #2 here (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GN63&mospid=47785&btnr=26_0189&hg=26&fg=10) was the only part I bought.

Tonight I took the driveshaft down, put the new guibo joint on, and bolted the driveshaft back up. Tomorrow I should be hanging the exhaust and bolting everything back up. Also, you do NOT have to drop the transmission mount -- there is a gap where you can hold the necessary bolts at the guibo joint with a 16mm crescent wrench with the transmission mount in place.

Seven11
03-31-2010, 08:42 PM
definitely will make it better...i had the same problem. jesus...$1000 for the guibo???

wow what a rip

yea but its the warranties job to complain about getting ripped off

when i know i am being ripped off, i raise hell

bondheli
04-01-2010, 06:26 AM
How about a video of how it sounds without the exhaust? :supdude:

Chillviper
04-01-2010, 08:06 AM
I just got mine replaced yesterday under the SIB that covers the E65, otherwise it would have been about $800!

Keif
04-01-2010, 12:08 PM
How about a video of how it sounds without the exhaust? :supdude:

Looking for a fire extinguisher, then I plan on it. =]

teejaylentz
04-01-2010, 11:02 PM
Very cool. Been thinking of tackling this one myself - you beat me to it!

Keif
04-02-2010, 06:38 AM
No go on the video without exhaust -- I couldn't find a fire extinguisher that wasn't behind glass. =( Next time I'll come prepared.

Finished everything up last night. It helps to have a second person when hanging the exhaust, so my dad came over to help. After hanging the exhaust in its rubber mounts, bolting everything back up was very easy. The exhaust system is sealing well and I have no parts left over. :D

While the old guibo joint didn't appear to have anything but hairline surface cracks in small places, replacing it definitely tightened up the little bit of slack in the drivetrain I felt when shifting and stopping/starting. Very happy with the results.

I will post up a few more pictures later today or this evening in case anyone is interested (mainly of the driveshaft and its various joints).

Keif
04-02-2010, 06:45 PM
Final pictures posted. Will label and add descriptions and stuff later tonight.

Khabar
08-19-2010, 10:02 PM
The guibo joint / flex disc / universal joint, part #2 here (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GN63&mospid=47785&btnr=26_0189&hg=26&fg=10) was the only part I bought.

Tonight I took the driveshaft down, put the new guibo joint on, and bolted the driveshaft back up. Tomorrow I should be hanging the exhaust and bolting everything back up. Also, you do NOT have to drop the transmission mount -- there is a gap where you can hold the necessary bolts at the guibo joint with a 16mm crescent wrench with the transmission mount in place.

I saw u did a great with univeirsal joint. What the difference? I want change mine I have some metal soung coming when i shift from R to D. What you think?

Keif
08-23-2010, 10:49 PM
There was a little slop in the shifting, mainly while moving, but none now. Is the sound coming from the transmission itself, or somewhere along the driveshaft?

Khabar
08-24-2010, 03:58 PM
Some time i feel like it comes from transmition,but some time i hear it coming from the back , but some time it dose not happen it all 10% of the time. I show one mech he said transmtion another UJ:)

Keif
08-25-2010, 02:36 PM
Try having someone else shift while you listen under the car to see how far back the noise is coming from. There is a crossmember underneath that you can use as a point of reference. As you can see here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28107540@N02/4471413769/in/set-72157623599676461/) and below, the crossmember is roughly where the middle universal joint is (the bolts coming down from the body on the left and right are where the crossmember bolts on). There is also a similar joint at the very rear of the driveshaft.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4471413769_8d6e87717e.jpg

Khabar
08-25-2010, 05:06 PM
I can be all 3 parts central mount UJ and rear joint ? how much time did take for you to do all work?

Keif
08-25-2010, 08:43 PM
A few hours, mainly because I was taking my time and taking pictures and stuff. Doing it again, maybe 3-4 hours still doing it at a leisurely pace.

jrcarter_2000
08-26-2010, 04:40 AM
will this fix an inch or two of play in the steering?

GrantWC
08-26-2010, 08:02 AM
will this fix an inch or two of play in the steering?

This has nothing to do with the steering.

Khabar
08-26-2010, 11:28 AM
What is the name for rear joint? How are screws? Are they to rusty to removed with hand tools? The center mount dose it has to be relaxed whole or only ring in the middle?

Sent from my Nexus One using BimmerApp

MOPAULY
11-13-2010, 05:12 AM
I would like to do this tomorrow - Keif do you have the torque specs for the guibo bolts?

Keif
11-19-2010, 02:46 PM
What is the name for rear joint? How are screws? Are they to rusty to removed with hand tools? The center mount dose it has to be relaxed whole or only ring in the middle?

The rear joint is the constant velocity (CV) joint. Everything should be able to be removed with hand tools.

I would like to do this tomorrow - Keif do you have the torque specs for the guibo bolts?

See attached file.

corian25
11-24-2010, 04:33 AM
the rear joint is the constant velocity (cv) joint. Everything should be able to be removed with hand tools.



See attached file.

is there a place to purchase the guibo joint..i wanna buy the part and have my mechanic replace it for me.

kwang0429
11-24-2010, 11:04 AM
is there a place to purchase the guibo joint..i wanna buy the part and have my mechanic replace it for me.

Ditto

Keif
12-14-2010, 02:41 PM
I just bought mine at the dealership...I didn't want to risk something spinning at that speed with an aftermarket vendor.

yamein1212
09-29-2011, 10:14 PM
Hey Kief, I do hope all is well my friend. I have been dealing with the famous "ClUNK" sound while downshifting from 2nd to 1st also. I had my Guibo replaced about a week ago and still am experiencing this same harsh downshift. Since the "Guibo replacement it does feel better but it only decreased what used to be a very loud "CLUNK & HARSH DOWNSHIFT" to a downshift that's now not as "LOUD AND HARSH BUT STILL VERY NOTICEABLE".

After looking at you DYI on the Guibo i noticed that there are a few other parts besides the guibo that may cause slack in the drive train. Could the center bearing, driveshaft, transmission mount possibly cause the slackage within the drivetrain and whats the possibility that my driveshaft is bad???

02x745Li
11-05-2011, 07:55 PM
Hey Kief, I do hope all is well my friend. I have been dealing with the famous "ClUNK" sound while downshifting from 2nd to 1st also. I had my Guibo replaced about a week ago and still am experiencing this same harsh downshift. Since the "Guibo replacement it does feel better but it only decreased what used to be a very loud "CLUNK & HARSH DOWNSHIFT" to a downshift that's now not as "LOUD AND HARSH BUT STILL VERY NOTICEABLE".

After looking at you DYI on the Guibo i noticed that there are a few other parts besides the guibo that may cause slack in the drive train. Could the center bearing, driveshaft, transmission mount possibly cause the slackage within the drivetrain and whats the possibility that my driveshaft is bad???

I am experiencing this too. I clicked on the Resource - FAQ for 745i/Li & 760Li (E65,E66) (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26900) and it took me to THIS (http://members.roadfly.org/e65faq/#CPPS3) and got this

"Transmission shifts are less than smooth at low speeds or stops?

This problem also seems to be corrected by software updates. Confirmed latest update is CIP 9.2 (the version number is show on your work order if any software updates were done)."

1. Would the software update help out?
2. How much does the software update cost?
3. Can i do the software update myself without any special tools?

Keif
11-07-2011, 09:16 AM
I reset the transmission adaptations once finished and it cleared everything up. There are other potential places for slack in the drivetrain, for example the center bearing, various mounts, and the rear differential. Additionally, how is your transmission fluid level?

02x745Li
11-07-2011, 04:58 PM
I reset the transmission adaptations once finished and it cleared everything up. There are other potential places for slack in the drivetrain, for example the center bearing, various mounts, and the rear differential. Additionally, how is your transmission fluid level?

No clue.

Busterdan
12-11-2011, 05:55 AM
I just opened a hood with a broken cable thanks to kief and his post and pictures. Had to go thru the wheel well but the pictures were awsome. I fixed this for a friend. The dealer was telling him to drop off and expect the bill to be one to two thousand dollars to reapair. Thanks again, Dan:)

Teamdavis
05-15-2012, 06:48 PM
My car is doing the same thing,will try checking the air pressure first then i will put it on the lift and check the drive axle and inspect the guibo joint

flash_n
05-21-2012, 07:54 PM
Keif, many many thanks for your DIY.
Went ahead this weekend and replaced the guibo using your description.

Some additional points I noted along the way, that I hope may be helpful.
- the collar nuts attaching the front silencer to the manifold should be replaced (at least have them available before you start). See attached picture
- try no to damage the knurled bolt from the other side, when removing the nut.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7104/7246401654_74dccd887b_m.jpg

- have a E12 female torx socket ready for the CV joint. Luckily Advance Auto has them on a Sunday.
- indicate which way to install the guibo, and mark the orientation of the prop shaft, the transmission flange and the CV.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8165/7246401694_ee9ed7cfff_m.jpg

- replace the self-locking nuts (6x) connecting the guibo.
- when torquing around the crossmember I had the hardest time to grip the nut with the wrench. Here a picture how I held the wrench when reassembling. Made it so much easier for me.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7211/7246401596_f5a9639225_m.jpg

- when re-assembling the exhaust to the manifold you have to loosen the cross brace. It was late in the day and I fiddled forever trying to get them together again. Loosen the cross brace and voila, fits together again.

Vxin
02-17-2013, 07:32 AM
Hi i see your post about the flex disc. Im not 100% sure but i think mine has gone bad also. I have a 2000 323i. When im in 2nd gear at about 3000 rpms, i hear a loud grinding, rattling, vibration sound. It does it in 3rd gear also. Does anyone know if this is indeed the flex disc?

Garland745Li
02-24-2013, 06:07 PM
Wanted to know if we can get this done free of charge from putting in a PuMA Case or is this something that has to be done at the shop? Heres the SIB for it:

I B 24 17 07
Automatic Transmission
December 2007
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B24 17 07 dated July 2007.
designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
Harsh 3-2 and/or 2-1 Downshifts
MODEL
E65 and E66 (7 Series) 745i and 745Li with N62 and GA6HP26Z transmission
Vehicles from SOP up to 03/2005
SITUATION
IMPORTANT :
Depending on the production date of the vehicle, there are different situations and corrective measures that must be carefully followed. Running production changes in vehicle hardware and software divide these situations into three distinct production periods.
A. For vehicles produced from SOP up to and including 02/2003:
^ A harsh 3-2 and/or 2-1 downshift when slowing to a stop
^ A harsh downshift when accelerating at highway speeds
^ A "clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during a load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.
B. For vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003:
^ A "clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during a load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.
C. For vehicles produced from 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005:
^ A harsh 3-2 downshift when slowing to a stop
^ A "clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during a load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.
CAUSES
EGS software calibration
Driveshaft guibo coupling deterioration for "clunk" noise complaint
CORRECTION
For Situation A: Harsh downshift complaints
1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.
2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain-related faults first.
3. [NEW] If the vehicle integration level (vehicle data status) is E065-07-03-800 or less, reprogram the vehicle using the latest version of Progman to E065-07-09-800 or higher.
4. Clear the EGS adaptations after programming is completed.
5. If after reprogramming, harsh downshifts are still felt, submit a regular PuMA case entitled "ZF shift quality". To be processed, the case must include ALL information listed in SI B24 23 07.
For "clunk" noise complaints in vehicles produced from 10/2002 up to and including 02/2003, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
For Situation B: "Clunk" noise complaints
1. Verify the complaint.
On vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003, the only repair is to inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
Note :There are no further EGS software changes for vehicles in this production period.
For Situation C: Harsh 3-2 downshift complaints
1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.
2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain-related faults first.
3. Submit a Puma case entitled "Urban Program" to obtain the access code needed to complete the retrofit reprogramming of the EGS module.
4. Start a programming session using the latest version of Progman and select "Urban Program" from the retrofit options menu. The measures plan should indicate a higher programmed number and an EGS calibration change.
5. Clear the EGS adaptations after the programming is completed.
For "clunk" noise complaints in vehicles produced from 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Garland745Li
02-24-2013, 06:09 PM
I just got mine replaced yesterday under the SIB that covers the E65, otherwise it would have been about $800!

How did you go about doing this and did you have to pay anything out of pocket?

02QTR28
05-21-2013, 04:37 AM
EXCELLENT write with pics & all! Finished up yesterday & gotta say the most PIA part was my exhaust bolt rusty as hell had to cut the off! I also have mention I removed the transmission mount it makes it 100 times easier to take off guibo as long as you use a ck to support the tranny to lower & raise back up much easier this way! I unfortunately was unable to unbolt rear drive shaft that top not was unreachableto get a good torque on it but no biggie I just attached new guibo to the tranny then attached drive shaft to new guibo with out taking it down!!! & honestly my old guibo didn't look that bad!!!

cansea54
05-27-2013, 06:19 AM
Hi Keif, first of all thank you for all the great tinkering instructions and pictures. they have been so much help in keeping my 2003 e66 running smooth. I was feeling a bunch of vibrations or thumping under the floor upon acceleration from a stop and did some searching. I decided to go ahead and replace the giubo and when I got into the process discovered that my drive shaft bearing/center support is worn out. The rubber that supports the bearing is torn more than half way around. The actual giubo doesn't look too bad but I have it so I'll replace it. What I haven't been able to find is how to re and re the actual driveshaft support/bearing. I can't figure out how to get it off and then put the new one on. Is it something that can be tackled by a junior tinkerer or do you think I should just take it to a shop.

markandersonus
05-31-2013, 01:02 PM
i just had mine done at the dealer

they charged the warranty company about $1000

i had rough shifts, i wonder if that would fix the problem
Hi There

Who do you have warranty through and what does it cost. I have an 05 745i with 68K. Wondering about a warranty for it

markandersonus
05-31-2013, 01:03 PM
it's really like $150 for the guibo. How can they justify $850 in labor? that's like 10 hours worth of labor at most shops


10 hoiurs fro 850. About $160/hour in Chicago

slowd
07-05-2013, 01:10 PM
Love this post about the Guibo flex disc replacement which led me to believe I had this problem. I am putting everything back together and I wanted to make sure I understood the torque specs. My bolts are M12, not sure if they are 8.8 or 10.9 I'm assuming that since there is an E66 listing for the M12 10.9 that I should use 50Nm @ 90 degrees for the connection of the flex disc to trans output flange. The flex disc to driveshaft bolts are also M12 and I don't see any spec for that in the posting earlier in this thread for an E66 M12. Am I reading it wrong?