DIY - 528i OIL Change (E39) 6 cyl

[GOKOOLJAPAN]

528i Oil Change (no pics because it’s easy)


Disclaimer: The procedure below is to be done at your own risk. I have changed Oil numerous times using these procedures with positive results, but may not work for you. I am not stating that the procedures below are the proper BMW procedures. The instructions below were performed on a 1997 528i. Other years and models may differ, but I do not know for a fact. I will not be held accountable for any mishaps or accidents. Again, please perform these procedures at your own risk.

TOOLS & Parts NEEDED:

½ Drive Ratchet
17mm socket
36mm socket
Torque Wrench
Flat Head Screwdriver
Floor jack, hand jack or ramps and jack stand
7 qts of Synthetic Oil & Oil Filter


Tip: Warm up car to operating temperature to make oil drain out smoothly and almost completely.

1. Start by jacking up your car on the front passenger side jack point using a floorjack or hand jack (OR you can use ramps). Once high enough to get under, make sure to put a jack stand or hand jack underneath the front part of the cross member (place it on a point where you can still access the drain bolt).
2. Locate the drain bolt which will be facing downwards at an angle. The bolt is a 17mm bolt and is facing the passenger side front wheel. You can’t miss it! Look from underneath passengerside front towards the bottom of the engine. It’s the only bolt you can see. And also, you can’t miss it since the oil pan is a big square.

Using a 17mm ratchet (I would use the ½ drive socket and ratchet for added leverage), begin by loosening the bolt (counter clockwise). Strategically place the oil catch pan underneath. When loosening the bolt, push on the bolt until you are ready to remove it (what this does is that you don’t want to just straight loosen the bolt till it falls off). This will aid in not dropping the bolt in the oil pan and not having oil all over your hand. Let the Oil completely drain for a good 10 mins or so.

Tip: If using a floor jac, remove the jack stand and lower the jack just before it touches the oil pan. This enables the car to be leveled in order to get as much oil as possible out.

3. Loosen the Oil filler cap on top of the valve cover so that the oil will drain smoother. Then get your 36mm socket out and begin to remove the oil filter cap. This should be really easy to find since it is the only 36mm socket type in the engine bay. Look for the black plastic cover.

Remove the cap and the filter should come with it. Remove the filter just by pulling it out. Remove the large O-Ring on the cap which is located at the top to seal it (use a screw driver). Your new filter from BMW should come with one. Replace with new O-Ring and put a LIGHT coat of oil(oil that you are using in yor car) on the O-ring. Replace the oil filter. Wait till oil drains from the filter housing and then replace the filter and cap and hand tighten. Then take out your trusty torque wrench and torque the cap to 25 NM.(should say on the cap)

4. Raise car up like Step #1. Clean off drain bolt and replace the crushable copper washer. Replace bolt and hand tighten (clockwise). Make sure you clean ant oil around the bolt and oil pan. Torque that bolt to 21 ft lbs. Lower vehicle.
5. Pour 7 qts of oil into the oil filler on top of the valve cover. Tigten oil cap and start engine. Drive or let the car run for 3-5 mins and make sure there are no leaks underneath or in the oil filter housing.
6. Re-set the oil inspection light & that’s it!

Piece of cake!


-Gokooljapan

[sehiser]

Great post!

You'll all notice on your oil filter cap #NM, in my case thats 25NM. NM is Newton Meters. You'll have a hard time find a Torque wrench that shows NM.

Most of you will see 25NM, which converts to approximately 18.5 foot lbs of torque.

The oil filter cap uses an O-Ring, what's nice about that is it just needs to be snug. When an O-Ring isn't used on an oil filter, you need almost twice as much torque on it.

If you don't have a torque wrench, don't worry. 18lbs of torque is a nice snug tug, just once, don't over do it. You just want to make sure there are no leaks.

To be honest, you don't really have to worry about being as accurate with the drain plug, I would tighten that like you would any other bolt, just give it a nice light tug.

You'll notice on your BMW the torque specification are given in NM. Unless you're rebuilding an engine and dealing with piston rods and rod bearing, you just need to be close.

If you need to convert NM into Ft-Lbs, it's simple. 1 NM is approx. 0.74 Foot-Pounds

eg: 25NM x .74 = 18.5 ft-lbs

Don't skimp on the metric sockets by trying to get american to fit. You're talking $3 a socket, and $35 for a basic torque wrench if you want one.

Other than that, my dealership charges $465 for spark plug, oil, filters, and gear oil changes.

Changing sparks plugs and oil on a BMW is 5 times easier than on a domestic.

$9 or less for an oil filter.
7 qts of synthetic about $5.20 a qt = $36.40
$5.50 for NGK plugs, x 6 = $33
Gear Oil, about $5.
Fuel Filter = $10

You're out the door for under $100. The only other things you need to know how to do are check your brakes, lube stuff, and make sure nothing is getting worn out. Basically the service center is just looking for ways to make money off you. Don't buy the line "Well it's a German car, they are different". Yeah, they ARE different, they are easier to work on and more dependable. It's good to have a micrometer to check your rotors, and a few other tools here and there. If you don't check all these things, it's a good idea to let a service center have a good one over on the occasion, you don't want to be cheap but you don't want to get ripped off either. You can do the entire inspection in under an hour if you don't make a mess.

Probably the only thing I wouldn't do is my alignment and tires. An alignment is about $45-60 and worth it. They use some high end equipment for that, you can buy DIY alignment equipment for about $1400, but I'd personally save that for a service center.

The guys at the service center will get a kick out of a BMW owner who can actually work on a car.

Scott
Toledo, OH

[ketchup]

I don't know if you covered this, but don't forget to fill the oil filter canister with new oil too!

[luvdriven540i]

GoKoolJapan, thanks for the info, yes it is easy, but how's the synthetic oil working for your car? I just bought a 98 540i, should I use synthetic? I'm being told at the BMW dealership here in Las Vegas that they don't use synthetic on BMW's models earlier than 2000. I appreciate any and all input on this subject , thank you all.

[omarm_2000]

This questions is for Gocooljapan. On step 6 so said that you re-set the oil inspection light, how do you do that and where do I do it?

[M.Wong]

omarm_2000:


This might help...

Link:
Service light reset (http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/reset-plug/reset.htm)
:)

[omarm_2000]

Mr. Wong, thanks for the info. I have 2 questions,
first where do I get the tool to reset it?

Also some one else posted the following, please let me know if this might also be correct:

The ignition key must be in OFF position.
Press and hold trip odometer button in instrument cluster, and turn ignition key to ACCESSORY position.
Keep button pressed for approx. 5 more seconds until any of the following appear in the display: "Oil Service" or "Inspection", with "Reset" or "Re".
Press button again and hold for approx. 5 seconds until "Reset" pr "Re" flash.
While display is flashing, press button briefly to reset SII.
After display has shown new interval, the following will appear in display for approx. 2 seconds: "End SIA".

[M.Wong]

Keep in mind that it's usually helpful to post the year (model year and/or the build date on the door VIN plate) when you have questions. The link I posted shows two ways, depending on the year of your car.


Older E39s use the pin method under the hood. The link I posted also has a link to the Peake Research web site for an example of the reset tool:
http://www.peakeresearch.com

My E38 uses this pin method. However, I don't use a reset tool like the one from Peake Research. I use a wire as shown in this link:
Oil service light reset (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/206524/3)

(If your E39 is newer, the other method on the dash is what you need to do.)


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/206000-206999/206524_141_full.jpg

[Lord Bodak]

I don't know if you covered this, but don't forget to fill the oil filter canister with new oil too!

Bringing an old post back up to the top I know, but I have seen this mentioned occasionally. Is this something you must do, should do, or just might want to do?

[M.Wong]

Bringing an old post back up to the top I know, but I have seen this mentioned occasionally. Is this something you must do, should do, or just might want to do?
Personally, I don't do it... but many say you should.

[BMW1983]

I know this is a dumb question and I'm sorry for asking it but I don't have my car with me because its in the shop til next week. What does the pin configuration look like on a 98 540 i e39? Is it round and I have to buy the adapter that comes with the peake reset tool or is it the kind where I don't have to buy the adapter. The rectangular connection? The only reason I ask is cuz i think I saw it today when I was cleaning up under the hood and it was round but the peakeresearch website says that 97-2000 uses the rectungular connection. Thanks.

[aazzara]

Thanks for the info. Is there a dipstick on these cars to check the oil level in the engine? I just bought a used 1997 528 i and I could not find the dipstick. I bought it at an auction, so I was wondering if someone swiped it during the inspection.

[M.Wong]

What does the pin configuration look like on a 98 540i e39?
It should look the same as in my picture.


Is there a dipstick on these cars to check the oil level in the engine? 1997 528i
Have you no owner's manual? This one is similar: Manual from BMWTips.com (http://bmwtips.com/OwnersManuals/2000Manual-5Sedan-SportWagon.pdf).

Yes, it should be red. Left of center of picture for the V8, right of center near the fire wall for the I6. If it's missing, you should get a check engine or service engine soon light as it will allow excess air into the system.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/257000-257999/257557_70_full.jpg

http://photos.ebizautos.com/4146/860768_6.jpg
(Second photo from e-bay)

[psychop]

I know this is a dumb question and I'm sorry for asking it but I don't have my car with me because its in the shop til next week. What does the pin configuration look like on a 98 540 i e39? Is it round and I have to buy the adapter that comes with the peake reset tool or is it the kind where I don't have to buy the adapter. The rectangular connection? The only reason I ask is cuz i think I saw it today when I was cleaning up under the hood and it was round but the peakeresearch website says that 97-2000 uses the rectungular connection. Thanks.

For the 1998 no need for the tool; piece of wire will do just fine

[jimmerbimmer]

You don't have to jack the car up to drain. Just turn the wheels all the way to the right side. It is actually hard to find the plug. It's on the right. Behind right wheel. I don't have a picture, but it would help.

The hard part is resetting the idiot lights. You have to short out 2 jumpers on the diag. I also don't have that detail right now but might post it later...

[darrendrake]

I have a 2000 528i and attempted the reset of the service interval (green lights) indicator. I used the paper clip approach (looped both ends a little) and placed one end in position 7 and one in position 19 (look closely, they ARE numbered). After setting the paper clip in place, turn key in ignition to the 2nd position (DO NOT START) and then get out of the driver's seat and walk back around to the paper clip and remove. The turning of the key and the walk may take a total of 10 seconds. After pulling the pin out, check the dash- the lights will all be green. Secret is having dashboard lights on while SIMULTANEOUSLY removing pin.

[truelies]

You don't have to jack the car up to drain. Just turn the wheels all the way to the right side. It is actually hard to find the plug. It's on the right. Behind right wheel. I don't have a picture, but it would help.

The hard part is resetting the idiot lights. You have to short out 2 jumpers on the diag. I also don't have that detail right now but might post it later...

I am difficult to find a jack or a ramp to do oil change. Do you mean we even don't need to jack the car up? I only have a jack with my bmw.

[d101]

can any one tell me how to reset the inspection lights on my 1982 528i thank u my e_mail is jamesburns45@hotmail.com :)

[M.Wong]

I am difficult to find a jack or a ramp to do oil change. Do you mean we even don't need to jack the car up? I only have a jack with my bmw.
Don't use the emergency jack in the trunk, they are quite unstable. If you have no access to a floor jack and jack stands, or ramps, and you can't get to the plug, you might drive half way on the sidewalk (and half on the street) or onto a couple of very solid 2x10 planks.

I'd buy a floor jack and jack stands (or ramps, but I prefer having the jack/stands) before buying a top sider oil remover.

But on the 6 cylinder, I think you can do an oil change without lifting the car. (The V8 needs a little more room to access the plug.)

[M.Wong]

can any one tell me how to reset the inspection lights on my 1982 528i thank u my e_mail is jamesburns45@hotmail.com :)

This is from an E30 site, but I am pretty sure your car would be the same as the "pre 1987 connector" section:
Service light reset (http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/database.cgi?file=articles&report=view&ID=00042&Section=02)

http://www.bmwe30.net/pic/tech/early_connector.gif
(photo from bmwE30.net)

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/206000-206999/206524_141_full.jpg
(photo from my 2000 E38, which looked like my 1987 E30 connector)

[superghost]

Just wanted to let everyone know that the reset service with paperclip did not work for me, not sure if it was the paperclip itself or something else, but I used a 1 inch long 12 gauge wire and it worked perfectly after that.

Now, my oil filter cap is badly stripped from previous owner and its a pain to take out. So I went searching for the part online and I can't seem to find it. Does anyone know where I can find just the oil filter cap, other than the dealer?

[Tony]

I don't know if you covered this, but don't forget to fill the oil filter canister with new oil too!


Hi Ketchup.:thumbup:

[ptabaco]

Pelican parts

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE39/POR_BE39_ENGoil_pg1.htm#item1

[ProRail]

GoKoolJapan, thanks for the info, yes it is easy, but how's the synthetic oil working for your car? I just bought a 98 540i, should I use synthetic? I'm being told at the BMW dealership here in Las Vegas that they don't use synthetic on BMW's models earlier than 2000. I appreciate any and all input on this subject , thank you all.

My 99 uses synthetic. The oil change indicator is predicated on using synthetic, since it calls for a change at 12-15K. Natural oil would not last that long.

[gtx510]

For those who don't have or can't find metric tools.

17mm = 11/16"
36mm = 1-716"

Bav Auto and Mini Mania sell a (36mm) oil filter cap socket for under $20.


It's not really that good to run your oil past 10k, even with synthetics.
The purdent thing to do it change you oil at the 7-8k mark and not reset the lights.


(German) Castrol 0W30 from Autozone is the best oil for the money, $5.50/qt.
It's better than BMW Hi-Po 5W30 and M1 0W40. It's almost a xW40 and about as thick as M1 0W40. And it's LL-01 approved.

If you want a thicker xW40/LL-98 oil, I'd rec'd Motul, Amsoil, Liqui-moly, or Elf. You can get them on the net for about $7/qt.
Redline 5W40 would work well but I don't think it's LL-98, but that really doesn't matter.

[MBCisme123]

I want to start changing my own oil so i can afford to put synthetic oil in. I haven't been been asking the guys at the oil change place to put in the synthetic even though they recommend it for a bimmer.(Because of the Cost)
Is there anything i should worry about when switching over the oils? Since the car has been used to running of regular will everythiing be cool, or i do i need to do a flush or cleaning of some sort?
Thanks
Matt

[UDM_Pinoy]

This questions is for Gocooljapan. On step 6 so said that you re-set the oil inspection light, how do you do that and where do I do it?

You need to buy one or if you know someone who has it borrow and reset oil light, it's simple.

[Tony Whelan]

I have a 1998 528i and would like to change the head lights to the new xenon lights. Does anyone know if this can be done and what the cost whould be.

Thanks,
Rwhelan539@aol.com

[BigAl3]

[Thanks for the RIGHT info to reset my 325"s lights.It seems like north of Atlanta noboby understyands this feature. $149 for the tool or a paper clip duh
thanks again:) :)

[Tony Whelan]

I have a 1998 BMW528i, and would like to know which cylinder is number 3. Are the cylinders numbered 1 thru 6 if you standing if front of the car and looking at the engine, or is there another scheme. I have the Bentley manuels and cannot find this in them.

Thanks,
Tony Whelan

[boatingdobbins]

My oil filter cap is very tight. Is it a lefty loosey thread (standard) thread? '04 525i

[DasUberM52]

When doing an oil change, is it ok to use ''engine restore'' (silver can)?

[jvcajita]

I want to start changing my own oil so i can afford to put synthetic oil in. I haven't been been asking the guys at the oil change place to put in the synthetic even though they recommend it for a bimmer.(Because of the Cost)
Is there anything i should worry about when switching over the oils? Since the car has been used to running of regular will everythiing be cool, or i do i need to do a flush or cleaning of some sort?
Thanks
Matt

Do an engine flush first. The transition of the synthetic oil will be quite welcomed. What's ur OCI (oil change interval)? Also do you do more of surface street or freeway driving?

[jvcajita]

My oil filter cap is very tight. Is it a lefty loosey thread (standard) thread? '04 525i

it's lefty loosey =). But I think the reason for it being tight is because you must have your engine cooled down which equates to less pressure in the engine.

[jvcajita]

I have a 1998 528i and would like to change the head lights to the new xenon lights. Does anyone know if this can be done and what the cost whould be.

Thanks,
Rwhelan539@aol.com

Tony,

Firstly, I don't think this is the proper thread to post this question to since this is about oil changing. There are several threads pertaining to lights. But I'll still answer your question, lol =). Anyway when you say xenon lights, did you mean by just xenon white bulbs or actual HID (high intensity discharge) conversion? If its the later, then it'll cost you from $100-$1200. Why the big range? Well you got your rinky dinky ebay sellers with retrofit kits that would only last you 3 months then you'd need to replace the bulbs again (hopefully the ballasts will work still), then you have the OEM specified Hella D2 headlamps. Now if you were still going with Halogens but discharges from super white to blue depending on the tint, it can cost you $10 to $40.

[m0da]

just want to say i just tried out the paperclip method to resetting the oil lights and it worked fine.
just as the instructions said. connect to 7+19, turn key to position 2 without starting, take out paperclip, then check for the greens :)

[Ågent99]

bump

[JQuenga]

Man am I glad I found this thread. Best help so far.

Just my notes if anyone cares...

1. Get a 36mm socket! I used my vice grips and had to position them under the fan guard just to turn it, who ever put that on before tightened the hell out of it. I have a cheap tool set from Wal-Mart which obviously doesn't have a socket that big, but for future oil changes I'm getting one.

2. The paper clip method worked fine for me. I didn't really get what people were saying at first, but then I just guessed and got it right. All you have to do is bend the paper clip into a "U" and put one end in the #7 and #19 holes, turn the key, count to ten, pull the clip, walk back and notice all green lights are up. Took a picture if anyone cares to see it, just email me. But, it's basically the same as that red wire photo in the first page, but with a paper clip.


Oh, and I have a 1997 528i.

[otmlb1128]

528i Oil Change (no pics because it’s easy)


Disclaimer: The procedure below is to be done at your own risk. I have changed Oil numerous times using these procedures with positive results, but may not work for you. I am not stating that the procedures below are the proper BMW procedures. The instructions below were performed on a 1997 528i. Other years and models may differ, but I do not know for a fact. I will not be held accountable for any mishaps or accidents. Again, please perform these procedures at your own risk.

TOOLS & Parts NEEDED:

½ Drive Ratchet
17mm socket
36mm socket
Torque Wrench
Flat Head Screwdriver
Floor jack, hand jack or ramps and jack stand
7 qts of Synthetic Oil & Oil Filter


Tip: Warm up car to operating temperature to make oil drain out smoothly and almost completely.

1. Start by jacking up your car on the front passenger side jack point using a floorjack or hand jack (OR you can use ramps). Once high enough to get under, make sure to put a jack stand or hand jack underneath the front part of the cross member (place it on a point where you can still access the drain bolt).
2. Locate the drain bolt which will be facing downwards at an angle. The bolt is a 17mm bolt and is facing the passenger side front wheel. You can’t miss it! Look from underneath passengerside front towards the bottom of the engine. It’s the only bolt you can see. And also, you can’t miss it since the oil pan is a big square.

Using a 17mm ratchet (I would use the ½ drive socket and ratchet for added leverage), begin by loosening the bolt (counter clockwise). Strategically place the oil catch pan underneath. When loosening the bolt, push on the bolt until you are ready to remove it (what this does is that you don’t want to just straight loosen the bolt till it falls off). This will aid in not dropping the bolt in the oil pan and not having oil all over your hand. Let the Oil completely drain for a good 10 mins or so.

Tip: If using a floor jac, remove the jack stand and lower the jack just before it touches the oil pan. This enables the car to be leveled in order to get as much oil as possible out.

3. Loosen the Oil filler cap on top of the valve cover so that the oil will drain smoother. Then get your 36mm socket out and begin to remove the oil filter cap. This should be really easy to find since it is the only 36mm socket type in the engine bay. Look for the black plastic cover.

Remove the cap and the filter should come with it. Remove the filter just by pulling it out. Remove the large O-Ring on the cap which is located at the top to seal it (use a screw driver). Your new filter from BMW should come with one. Replace with new O-Ring and put a LIGHT coat of oil(oil that you are using in yor car) on the O-ring. Replace the oil filter. Wait till oil drains from the filter housing and then replace the filter and cap and hand tighten. Then take out your trusty torque wrench and torque the cap to 25 NM.(should say on the cap)

4. Raise car up like Step #1. Clean off drain bolt and replace the crushable copper washer. Replace bolt and hand tighten (clockwise). Make sure you clean ant oil around the bolt and oil pan. Torque that bolt to 21 ft lbs. Lower vehicle.
5. Pour 7 qts of oil into the oil filler on top of the valve cover. Tigten oil cap and start engine. Drive or let the car run for 3-5 mins and make sure there are no leaks underneath or in the oil filter housing.
6. Re-set the oil inspection light & that’s it!

Piece of cake!


-Gokooljapan
when you raise the car up with the jack to put the jack stands under, where do you put the jack stand? i've heard you can put the jack stand in the plastic square thing underneath the car but you can't raise it there and put the jack stand under it there as well.

[M.Wong]

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/257000-257999/257557_81_full.jpg
That is where I put my jack stands, but I use a floor jack at the center of the car's cross support. The car's jack should only be used in an emergency, as it's not terribly stable.

You might try driving the front wheels onto a couple 2X6s and see if that gives you enough clearance.



For reference, the center spot is like where the front round green circle is here:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/mwong/Jackpoints.jpg

[otmlb1128]

what kind of floor jack do you have. most of the ones i've found have a minimum height too low for my e39 so the jack wont fit under the car.

[Knophat]

Just a quick note to thank the people in this thread for all the helpful info...Especially the little tid-bit about resetting the service meter...I happen to have some speaker wire in my toolbox and just like that, all green lights...Now I'm off to see what I can learn about changing out my A/C compressor...later

Oh yeah, I got a '98 528i

thanks again

[M.Wong]

what kind of floor jack do you have. most of the ones i've found have a minimum height too low for my e39 so the jack wont fit under the car.
Mine came from Sears. It's low profile, but not that low.

I drive the front wheels up on a couple of 2x6's first.

[VinZul]

Man am I glad I found this thread. Best help so far.

Just my notes if anyone cares...

1. Get a 36mm socket! I used my vice grips and had to position them under the fan guard just to turn it, who ever put that on before tightened the hell out of it. I have a cheap tool set from Wal-Mart which obviously doesn't have a socket that big, but for future oil changes I'm getting one.

2. The paper clip method worked fine for me. I didn't really get what people were saying at first, but then I just guessed and got it right. All you have to do is bend the paper clip into a "U" and put one end in the #7 and #19 holes, turn the key, count to ten, pull the clip, walk back and notice all green lights are up. Took a picture if anyone cares to see it, just email me. But, it's basically the same as that red wire photo in the first page, but with a paper clip.


Oh, and I have a 1997 528i.


holding for 10 secs resets oil and service light
holding for 3 resets oil only

[Lonny Humphrey]

I have 2002 530i and a 2002 525i how do I reset after an oil change?

[VinZul]

they just said it like 3 times in this thread just scroll up and back a page and read

I have 2002 530i and a 2002 525i how do I reset after an oil change?

[Newbie528]

I have a 2000 528i and attempted the reset of the service interval (green lights) indicator. I used the paper clip approach (looped both ends a little) and placed one end in position 7 and one in position 19 (look closely, they ARE numbered). After setting the paper clip in place, turn key in ignition to the 2nd position (DO NOT START) and then get out of the driver's seat and walk back around to the paper clip and remove. The turning of the key and the walk may take a total of 10 seconds. After pulling the pin out, check the dash- the lights will all be green. Secret is having dashboard lights on while SIMULTANEOUSLY removing pin.

If its that Simple I can have my wife pull OUT the paper clip when I say "GO". :rofl:

[Newbie528]

I want to start changing my own oil so i can afford to put synthetic oil in. I haven't been been asking the guys at the oil change place to put in the synthetic even though they recommend it for a bimmer.(Because of the Cost)
Is there anything i should worry about when switching over the oils? Since the car has been used to running of regular will everythiing be cool, or i do i need to do a flush or cleaning of some sort?
Thanks
Matt

Shut up and just do it Matt. Its no big deal. Changing oil is something I've been doing since I was 17 in all the cars we have, and have had at home. Since I'm new to BMW's, my only concern would be the oil compatibility - meaning the oil should be BMW rated Longlife (I guess). Other than that, no big deal. And switching from your current oil to Synthetic IS only GOOD, no problems. In any car - you can always switch to synthetic. I don't know why ppl are so worried about it. Just do it! :thumbup:

[Newbie528]

just want to say i just tried out the paperclip method to resetting the oil lights and it worked fine.
just as the instructions said. connect to 7+19, turn key to position 2 without starting, take out paperclip, then check for the greens :)

Can someone eleborate on the 17/19 method. What is 17/19, where its located? And how to insert the pin: Plz be a little more specific. Thanks.

[Newbie528]

When doing an oil change, is it ok to use ''engine restore'' (silver can)?

Not really! Why? Is there a reason you want to? Those things are barely marketing items, and not good for high performance or quality engines. A good quality oil is all you'll need. I say this with hundreds of times me asking the same question, and everytime getting the same answer that I gave you. So, save yourself the time & money. Use a high quality Synthetic oil & filter.:thumbup:

[KRZ]

I have a 2000 528I, Can anyone tell me if there is an oil overflow feature if you put too much oil in after an oil change? (Dumb Question) I know you can simple let some out by removing the drain plug but I thing I put too much in an didnt realize. I was getting a lot of leakage and not its been fine. I have monitored the oil level and all has been well after seeing lots of oil in my driveway and smelling oil burn off. It wasnt coming from a loose drainplug, but I think from an area of the right side of the engine.

[KRZ]

I found out my oil leak was from the oil filter housing gasket. The replacement part was $11.00 usd from the BMW dealer. Total repairs was $350 from a non dealer shop and $550 at the dealer. The oil was dripping down and noticable from the right side of the engine block and on thr ground in my driveway.