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View Full Version : DIY: FSU (aka Blower Motor Resistor) replacement pictorial guide


Starless
07-24-2010, 08:46 PM
It was my turn to replace the FSU (blower motor resistor). I just got tired of the pulsating pattern of the blower and its shutting off on its own accord. It is especially frustrating in the 100F degrees St. Louis weather. I ordered the part through one of my favorite sites: www.eeuroparts.com that has great prices and both OE and aftermarket parts. The FSU is made by Behr (OEM). The cost was $59.99 shipped. It took an hour to install and it was a pain in the neck (literally) due to its location under the dash. If you have problems with your back/neck/shoulders Iíd recommend to delegate this repair to a shop technician (hopefully without these problems). You have to spend some time in the area below the glove box on your back and side with your legs on the passenger seat. There is simply no other way.

The DIY is in the pictures. Sorry if I missed something. But thatís just pretty much the way I did it. Iíll just mention it here one more time that I did not find it necessary to remove the air duct and control motor to get to the resistor like some other diys suggest. Of course it will make things a little easier but will take more time. And I did not want to spend more time on the 95F degrees evening sweating in the footwell of the car. So here is the pictorial guide:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur5bRSweI/AAAAAAAABiM/yDQNw3s20f8/FSU%20repair%201%20copy.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur5w7czzI/AAAAAAAABiQ/MxujsCIkpx8/FSU%20repair%202%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur6UvpzGI/AAAAAAAABiU/SiquyIzYf90/FSU%20repair%204%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur6mv8h7I/AAAAAAAABiY/4Z3KgpS7QH4/FSU%20repair%205%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur7LAJS6I/AAAAAAAABic/qXhzFNQn1KY/s640/FSU%20repair%206%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur77KWn2I/AAAAAAAABig/ghHtAF4d3Xk/s640/FSU%20repair%207%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur8AsGSKI/AAAAAAAABik/dpRJoiaB8dQ/s640/FSU%20repair%209%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur8iGjfqI/AAAAAAAABio/tPA5Hh1AFxc/FSU%20repair%2010%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur8_hTpPI/AAAAAAAABis/VIGoS8-tBp4/FSU%20repair%2011%20copy.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur9ez36MI/AAAAAAAABiw/_YsRxWiI45g/FSU%20repair%2012%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur9mL3TqI/AAAAAAAABi0/HDYn3opF_II/FSU%20repair%2013%20copy.jpg

Solidjake
07-24-2010, 09:03 PM
Very nice as always. Thanks.

mawana
07-25-2010, 03:23 AM
Very clear and cleanly done! I will definitely come back to this when it's time.

marinekilz
07-25-2010, 07:40 AM
:thumbup: Very nice work, enjoy all your constant cool air this summer

Ryans323i
07-25-2010, 09:01 AM
Thank you! And bookmarked!

P_T
07-25-2010, 10:05 AM
I vote for a new title of Chief DIY Illustration Guru.

Great job as always...thank you.

Starless
07-25-2010, 12:34 PM
I vote for a new title of Chief DIY Illustration Guru.

Great job as always...thank you.

Haha, I just like to take pictures of my repairs when they come up :)

Thanks everybody for comments. I'll need to include some other good FSU links for those who decide to remove the air duct. It's a couple of extra steps from what I've read.

C-Bear
07-25-2010, 02:05 PM
To the wiki we go?

maviduya
07-25-2010, 03:34 PM
starless,

i've replaced the fuse for the blower motor three times today and the only DIY that i did was to disconnect the power window motor on the front passenger side. i've checked all the wires in that door and none are exposed.

i'd like to confirm that a faulty blower resistor pack (aka FSU) would lead to multiple blown fuses...

more background material: the lights on the IHKA panel turn on with the key in the pre-ignition position...just no air from the vents...

thank you in advance!

mark @ san antonio

Starless
07-25-2010, 03:40 PM
To the wiki we go?

I'll link it there later :) Thanks!

New FSU definitely solved the pulsating/interrupted air stream problem. Cause it started getting annoying...A lot of maintenance still ahead...

Starless
07-25-2010, 03:47 PM
starless,

i've replaced the fuse for the blower motor three times today and the only DIY that i did was to disconnect the power window motor on the front passenger side. i've checked all the wires in that door and none are exposed.

i'd like to confirm that a faulty blower resistor pack (aka FSU) would lead to multiple blown fuses...

more background material: the lights on the IHKA panel turn on with the key in the pre-ignition position...just no air from the vents...
thank you in advance!

mark @ san antonio

Not sure about fuses, mine never blew...
The IHKA lights working and no air is definitely the FSU. Is it only with the key in pre ignition? What about when the car is running?

akhbhaat
07-25-2010, 04:06 PM
I performed this job in my old 323i, and this is really a top shelf DIY. The photos and description are excellent. Nice work.

Hopefully, you won't have to worry about this again. The FSU design was revised twice, I believe. All I can tell you is that my 2005 got the newest version of the part from the factory and has not once had FSU issues even at 5.5 yrs/62k miles, whereas my 323i had it twice in 7 years/75k miles (first at 2.75 years/20k miles, second at 7 years/75k miles). I do believe the part installed during the first repair was the same as the original, because I don't think it had yet been revised even once at that point.

maviduya
07-25-2010, 04:46 PM
starless,

you asked: "Is it only with the key in pre ignition? What about when the car is running?"

answer: BOTH...the fuse blows when i turn on the A/C in pre-ignition AND when i turn on the A/C when the engine is running.

thanks!

mark

Starless
07-25-2010, 08:02 PM
starless,

you asked: "Is it only with the key in pre ignition? What about when the car is running?"

answer: BOTH...the fuse blows when i turn on the A/C in pre-ignition AND when i turn on the A/C when the engine is running.

thanks!

mark

Mark, there is a BMW TSB concerning your problem. Here is the link:

http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B641005g.htm

So, I'd research the "e-box fan" version discussed in the document.

Also, read these threads on e46F:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/search.php?searchid=15113165

One guy in the thread below claims that FSU solved his blown fuse problem:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=687597

Keep us updated!

EDIT: In TSB I believe they are talking about part # 5 in this diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=ET37&mospid=47720&btnr=12_0899&hg=12&fg=35&hl=3

Part #5 cover with blower. There are 2 part #s, one for manual , second for autos.

And IF this is indeed the cause of the short, then this thread has instructions how to change the "e-box fan"

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=291383

jcatral14
07-25-2010, 10:06 PM
Thanks for taking the time to put this together Alex. Excellent DIY :thumbup:

...2005 got the newest version of the part from the factory and has not once had FSU issues even at 5.5 yrs/62k miles...

Great news :D

maviduya
07-26-2010, 03:12 AM
starless,

i discovered the reason for my problem...remember how i said that i worked on the passenger power window? the fuses that control window lift are #48 and #49. the fuse that kept blowing was #50.

#49 is supposed to have a 5 amp fuse and #50 a 40 amp fuse...

here's what happened: when finishing up with the DIY on the window, i transposed the fuses...i put the 5 amp fuse in #50 and the 40 amp fuse in #49.

i discovered this when, as a last-ditch effort before ordering the resistor pack, i checked each and every fuse for correct amperage.

THANK YOU for sticking this out with me and for answering my questions...

naturally, i feel really dumb...next time, i'll be more careful...

mark @ san antonio

Alex Phillips
07-26-2010, 12:35 PM
Starless,

I have had a problem with the AC/Heater air flow being inconsistent when the fan speed is in the middle range (not low and not high). The AC airflow seems to be like a rollercoaster almost shutting off and then revving up a little when in the middle range.

Could this be the blower motor resistor? If it is, I'd like to DIY. Your instruction guide looks very good. My car has almost 90k and is 8 years old.

Starless
07-26-2010, 01:01 PM
Starless,

I have had a problem with the AC/Heater air flow being inconsistent when the fan speed is in the middle range (not low and not high). The AC airflow seems to be like a rollercoaster almost shutting off and then revving up a little when in the middle range.

Could this be the blower motor resistor? If it is, I'd like to DIY. Your instruction guide looks very good. My car has almost 90k and is 8 years old.

Alex, yes, this is your blower motor resistor for sure. Classical symptoms. Let me know if you have any questions how to diy.

Alex Phillips
07-26-2010, 01:24 PM
Thanks Alex. Other than a t-20 screwdriver, I should be good to go. Thanks for the DIY guide. I am going to give this a shot probably this weekend.

chodan1
07-29-2010, 12:30 PM
Hi there, just wanted to drop a note thanking you for the intructions and pictures to replace the blower resistor. I wasn't sure I wanted to do this myself but your pictures gave me the courage to do it. I just replace mine for a 2002 325i. I payed $127 for the part and 2 hours of work. For those out there who is looking for tips, you need a good light b/c it is pretty dark in that area. There is not alot of room to fit your body to work on this so I pushed the chair back, sat reverse on the chair and slid myself down under the glove box. I did my in two stages with a 1/2 break in between, 1. teardown until I am able to see the FSU. 2. Remove and install.

Starless
07-29-2010, 08:51 PM
Hi there, just wanted to drop a note thanking you for the intructions and pictures to replace the blower resistor. I wasn't sure I wanted to do this myself but your pictures gave me the courage to do it. I just replace mine for a 2002 325i. I payed $127 for the part and 2 hours of work. For those out there who is looking for tips, you need a good light b/c it is pretty dark in that area. There is not alot of room to fit your body to work on this so I pushed the chair back, sat reverse on the chair and slid myself down under the glove box. I did my in two stages with a 1/2 break in between, 1. teardown until I am able to see the FSU. 2. Remove and install.

Congrats! Good tips. The only thing is - $127?:yikes:From dealership that must be? My price was $59...

chodan1
07-30-2010, 06:54 AM
The best price I saw online was $76 + at least $20 shipping since I needed it fast, so I got it from the dealer.

Alex Phillips
07-30-2010, 11:33 AM
Chodan - eEurope Parts had it for around $59 with shipping included (FedEx) which was like a 2-3 day turnaround. I got it from there and plan to try this job later today or tomorrow.

Alex - I am giving this a shot and thanks for the assistance/DIY details above. I'll let you know how it goes.

chodan1
07-30-2010, 12:18 PM
When I was searching online, this parts store never came up ;) , I do see it now and you are right, this is actually the same part ( brand) I installed and payed $127. Now I know!

conrad721
07-31-2010, 02:44 AM
i think my blower resistor needs replacement too.

the air shuts off even with the a/c compressor is running.
playing with the fan speed doesnt do anything.
i did a "reset" by placing the ignition key all the way to pos 2 and then back, and somehow it finally worked.
this happened twice already.
im afraid time will come that the blower might not even work anymore.

with the heat and humidity here in my place, driving without the air conditioning will literally melt me.

thanks to starless for the DIY.

TDS1
08-06-2010, 07:31 PM
My story - The climate control in my 2000 328i started acting up about 3 weeks ago. As any of you know that it has happened to, it is extremely annoying especially in the middle of summer. A brief google search confirmed that blower motor resistor was indeed the problem. I read some of the DIYs on how to replace it, but I am really bad at these sorts of things, so I didn't think I could handle the repair. It seems that in a 5 series this is a much easier procedure. So I contacted some local places to inquire about replacement cost. An independant BMW mechanic wanted $260 to do the repair, and dealer wanted $400+. So, was about to schedule an appointment when I found this thread. The pictures are so much clearer than the other DIY that I found, and it inspired me to give it a try. Ordered the part from Eeuroparts as OP suggested. Part arrived in 2-3 days. Figured I would get started tonight and see how far I could get. Bottom line - I was able to complete the entire repair in about 45 minutes. THANK YOU OP!!! Again, if I can do it, it can be done by almost anyone. The 2 parts I had a bit of trouble with were 1) Removing the floorboard trim piece - hard to get the final clip off - had to push really hard 2) Getting the FSU out of the socket - it was really hard to get it unclipped, but once I did I was able to wiggle it out - it was much easier to get the new one in.

A few of my own thoughts:
1) My FSU did have 2 screws in it, despite many reports that the factory doesn't put the screws in. Odd, but it wasn't hard to remove them.
2) A magnetized T20 definitely helps
3) I was able to kneel on the ground outside the car looking in to do the replacement - didn't seem too hard to do it that way
4) My best tip - I used an adjustable headlight to see what I was doing rather than a flashlight. It made it really easy to see what I was doing.

Many thanks OP!

bluebee
08-06-2010, 10:49 PM
FWIW, we've been trying to find which FSR 'brands' are the reliable ones over in this FSR/FSU autopsy (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309399) thread in the E39 forums ...

So far, we "think" the only reliable FSR is Sitronic/Bosch ... but time will tell of the others ...
Recommended:
- Sitronic/Bosch

Not recommended:
- GKR
- Behr
- Valeo (http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=AB2&url=accessories/valeo/ultimate.jsp),
- Siemens

Certainly not recommended:
- Meyle
- Hella (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=9024382&postcount=204)
- Uro
- Denso
- Power Pro

Let's all pitch in to report the bad ones (e.g., GKR), so we can understand the good ones.

Starless
08-07-2010, 04:38 PM
^ I'm not sure all this applies to E46. BMW FSU part numbers lead to 2 brands - Behr and Meyle. The part has been updated many times and the final version of Behr (0365 part number) seems to be problem free.

bluebee
08-07-2010, 10:17 PM
^ I'm not sure all this applies to E46. BMW FSU part numbers lead to 2 brands - Behr and Meyle. The part has been updated many times and the final version of Behr (0365 part number) seems to be problem free.

FWIW, I understand. The electronics may be different. However, the symptoms are the same, the solution is the same, and even the brands are the same ... so I'll wager there's more similarity than differences.

So far, we're staying away from anything with GKR stamped on it, either in the metal or on the sticker. If it says Behr, you have to be careful as it also says GKR and BMW. Some even have FOUR brands listed.

So, it's confusing at best - but that's why we're all working together to identify which FSR brands to avoid in that thread (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5378045&postcount=73) where we took 'em apart.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=197831&stc=1&d=1250803843

cesmoot
08-16-2010, 04:10 PM
It took me 4 hours (including going to get the replacement part) and a lot of frustrating moments and feelings of claustrophobia, but with my wife's help (her hands were small enough to push back the clip and remove the FSU (blower motor resistor).

Then we were off to BMW for the part: $134.00 ( I didn't want to wait to fix it)
The reassembly was a little tricky and only took about 1/2 hour and we were off to the car wash.

I did manage to break both the clips off the SDU harness, so be careful not to remove the harness until the FSU is out. Even with the broken clips the unit connected snugly.

Also, it was tricky getting the heater duct out (I do not see how you can do this job otherwise) and back in, but take your time you will figure it out. Pull back gently on the leather trim till it pops loud, but no more. You will not do any damage you can see. You have to work the heater duct out from the back to the front (use a light to see).

Drink lots of water and take several breaks. Once you do this once it will be a piece of cake the next time. I was moving nicely until I had to deal with the heater duct removal. Take your time here....

It helps if someone can hold a flashlight and hand you tools as you go. You will be working in a very tight space, so be prepared. My feet were dangling over the reclined front seat and out of the open back passenger door.

Thanks everyone for the threads. I couldn't have attempted this without you.

ElRosbo
08-16-2010, 05:58 PM
I strongly recommend anyone replacing the FSU on an E46 buy the following:

Craftsman Specialty Tool Set 4717

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904717000P?prdNo=13

That set contains a magnet on an telescoping handle that is perfect for removing the 4 Torx screws so they don't drop into a black hole, never to return. The kit also includes a Phillips/Torx screw starter that made reinstalling the Torx screws a breeze. I also used the bent end of the scriber to help me release the clips on the FSU wire harness plug (although maybe I could have released the plug easier after sliding the FSU out).

If you don't already have Torx screwdrivers, Craftsman has an inexpensive set for about $10 but I recommend that you instead buy their better quality drivers.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00949302000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipme nt&keyword=torx+set&prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=L5

The handle gives a much better grip and the shank is much longer, which also was a help on this job. You can buy the set of 5 drivers for about $35 or just the T20 for about $7.

cesmoot
08-17-2010, 02:08 PM
After all the work I did yesterday replacing the FSU, I am frustrated today....the vents on the right drivers side are blowing cold air, the vents on passenger side are blowing warm air...did I do something wrong? Did I disconnect or not reconnect something? Please advise....

Starless
08-17-2010, 07:00 PM
After all the work I did yesterday replacing the FSU, I am frustrated today....the vents on the right drivers side are blowing cold air, the vents on passenger side are blowing warm air...did I do something wrong? Did I disconnect or not reconnect something? Please advise....

You did nothing wrong. It's a classical bmw symptom of low/leaking AC refrigerant. I'd go to an indy shop and have them evacuate the system and refill it with the correct amount of refrigerant. In many cases just this solves the problem but if you have a persistent leak then it will need to get fixed too. Keep us updated.

cesmoot
08-17-2010, 08:14 PM
Alex, I called BMW; they were kind enough to give me the shop foreman after hours. He said I should add freon first. Went to Auto Zone and purchased the can with the gauge etc for about 27.00.

The gauge read in the blue zone, but I added more till it was just shy of the yellow area. What do you know...I drove the car home and noticed that the air was getting colder on the passenger side as well.

I suspect I may have a slow leak though and will keep an eye on it.

:thumbup:Thanks Alex. You were right on....Boy am I relieved... I love this forum

jenshields
09-08-2010, 12:56 PM
I did it! Have never done a single car repair in my life, but my husband is in Afghanistan and I'm stuck at home with two little kids and the BMW dealer and repair shop are both 30 minutes away. Followed the instructions and now the AC is blowing cold again. Hallelujah!

One small issue, though...as I was wrestling everything back in place to reassemble it, I managed to pop the metal rod off the control motor. When I finally got the control motor back in place, the rod was back in the top (resting in the round yellow disc) but I don't think it was snapped in or attached. How important is that piece? Any idea what will happen? Hope I haven't made things worse...

Starless
09-08-2010, 07:53 PM
I did it! Have never done a single car repair in my life, but my husband is in Afghanistan and I'm stuck at home with two little kids and the BMW dealer and repair shop are both 30 minutes away. Followed the instructions and now the AC is blowing cold again. Hallelujah!

One small issue, though...as I was wrestling everything back in place to reassemble it, I managed to pop the metal rod off the control motor. When I finally got the control motor back in place, the rod was back in the top (resting in the round yellow disc) but I don't think it was snapped in or attached. How important is that piece? Any idea what will happen? Hope I haven't made things worse...

Jen, welcome to the forum and congratulations on the first repair!

My understanding (although I'm not 100% sure) is that the function of that motor with the rod is to switch between the outside airflow and recirculation of air withing the cabin. If my understanding is correct than this system will not work properly with the rod disconnected. I use this function occasionally and could definitely live without it. But I also like everything to work 100% in my car, so it's up to you how important this is :)

catso
09-08-2010, 08:09 PM
I did it! Have never done a single car repair in my life, but my husband is in Afghanistan and I'm stuck at home with two little kids and the BMW dealer and repair shop are both 30 minutes away. Followed the instructions and now the AC is blowing cold again. Hallelujah!

One small issue, though...as I was wrestling everything back in place to reassemble it, I managed to pop the metal rod off the control motor. When I finally got the control motor back in place, the rod was back in the top (resting in the round yellow disc) but I don't think it was snapped in or attached. How important is that piece? Any idea what will happen? Hope I haven't made things worse...

Now that you've entered the world of car repairs, you have learned that it's important to not create a new problem when you're repairing an old one. :eek: So get back in there and fix it right. In the future when you see a post about FSU's or outside air control motors you'll qualify as our new resident expert. :rolleyes: Keep up the good work! :thumbup:

READYON3
09-08-2010, 11:33 PM
^ I'm not sure all this applies to E46. BMW FSU part numbers lead to 2 brands - Behr and Meyle. The part has been updated many times and the final version of Behr (0365 part number) seems to be problem free.

I hope so. I just ordered my FSU at eEUP website and its manufactured by Behr.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/main/partdetail.aspx?id=64116920365

:eeps:

catso
09-09-2010, 06:25 AM
I hope so. I just ordered my FSU at eEUP website and its manufactured by Behr.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/main/partdetail.aspx?id=64116920365

:eeps:

When you receive it, let us know where it was manufactured. Most of the Behr parts used to be made in Germany, now some of the stuff is made in China. :mad:

Starless
09-09-2010, 10:30 AM
When you receive it, let us know where it was manufactured. Most of the Behr parts used to be made in Germany, now some of the stuff is made in China. :mad:

He ordered the same part # from the same web site as I did. And mine IS made in Germany. Everything has been good so far.

catso
09-09-2010, 12:32 PM
He ordered the same part # from the same web site as I did. And mine IS made in Germany. Everything has been good so far.

That's good to know, except for the fact that I just bought a new Behr aux cooling fan that says "made in China" on it. :mad:

READYON3
09-09-2010, 08:23 PM
The part will be here in a couple of days. the wait is driving me crazy. LOL.

READYON3
09-15-2010, 04:27 PM
finally came in. Gonna do the install this weekend.

Made in Germany.

http://i55.tinypic.com/2eds2o5.jpg

jeffmr
09-17-2010, 01:11 AM
I read somewhere where a person had this problem and simply replaced (I think by replaced he meant pulled out and put back in) fuse 50 and that solved his problems. I have a fluctuating fan speed sometimes when I turn the unit on then it evens out. I'm trying it to see if it works but has anyone heard of this?

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-series-e46-e90/how-replace-final-stage-resistor-46839.html

Flycaster
09-17-2010, 08:53 AM
I read somewhere where a person had this problem and simply replaced (I think by replaced he meant pulled out and put back in) fuse 50 and that solved his problems. I have a fluctuating fan speed sometimes when I turn the unit on then it evens out. I'm trying it to see if it works but has anyone heard of this?

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-series-e46-e90/how-replace-final-stage-resistor-46839.html

Although I got the new FSU, I figured I'd give the "fuse pull" approach a try first to see if it resets things. Certainly easier to do and worht the try. The blower has been behaving erradically: Speeds don't vary, but blower just turns off and on at the oddest times. Anyway, it's my wife's car (LOL as long as she doesn't see this).

mirakid
10-06-2010, 11:28 AM
Excellant instructions & pictures, followed everything to the T, very informative, you did not miss anything, it took me about 90 minutes. I had to pause from time to time (I have a bad back ) Thanks Again, greatly appreciate it. It was my turn to replace the FSU (blower motor resistor). I just got tired of the pulsating pattern of the blower and its shutting off on its own accord. It is especially frustrating in the 100F degrees St. Louis weather. I ordered the part through one of my favorite sites: www.eeuroparts.com that has great prices and both OE and aftermarket parts. The FSU is made by Behr (OEM). The cost was $59.99 shipped. It took an hour to install and it was a pain in the neck (literally) due to its location under the dash. If you have problems with your back/neck/shoulders Iíd recommend to delegate this repair to a shop technician (hopefully without these problems). You have to spend some time in the area below the glove box on your back and side with your legs on the passenger seat. There is simply no other way.

The DIY is in the pictures. Sorry if I missed something. But thatís just pretty much the way I did it. Iíll just mention it here one more time that I did not find it necessary to remove the air duct and control motor to get to the resistor like some other diys suggest. Of course it will make things a little easier but will take more time. And I did not want to spend more time on the 95F degrees evening sweating in the footwell of the car. So here is the pictorial guide:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur5bRSweI/AAAAAAAABiM/yDQNw3s20f8/FSU%20repair%201%20copy.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur5w7czzI/AAAAAAAABiQ/MxujsCIkpx8/FSU%20repair%202%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur6UvpzGI/AAAAAAAABiU/SiquyIzYf90/FSU%20repair%204%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur6mv8h7I/AAAAAAAABiY/4Z3KgpS7QH4/FSU%20repair%205%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur7LAJS6I/AAAAAAAABic/qXhzFNQn1KY/s640/FSU%20repair%206%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur77KWn2I/AAAAAAAABig/ghHtAF4d3Xk/s640/FSU%20repair%207%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur8AsGSKI/AAAAAAAABik/dpRJoiaB8dQ/s640/FSU%20repair%209%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur8iGjfqI/AAAAAAAABio/tPA5Hh1AFxc/FSU%20repair%2010%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur8_hTpPI/AAAAAAAABis/VIGoS8-tBp4/FSU%20repair%2011%20copy.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur9ez36MI/AAAAAAAABiw/_YsRxWiI45g/FSU%20repair%2012%20copy.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86lz7nzpGDQ/TEur9mL3TqI/AAAAAAAABi0/HDYn3opF_II/FSU%20repair%2013%20copy.jpg

lfhdez
10-18-2010, 06:28 AM
Hey guys. newbie here.
I'm about to order this part from eEuroparts but I wanted to know....

IHKA is on in any situation (pre-ignition/ignition) but there is no air coming out at all... would this be the culprit?

I had disconnected the IHKA because I was running some cables through there for a headunit. I connected the IHKA back up and it would light up, but there was no air coming out into the cabin.

might this be the reason why it's not turning on? could I have shorted it and not even realize it?

slangups
10-19-2010, 07:56 PM
Hello All,
This is a great forum, thanks so much.
Now...I know the FSU issue has been batted around quite a bit, but here is my issue.
My ac blows cold-..okay cold-ish, except on the driver defrost and floor vents. No matter what the setting is-the air there is hot. Quite hot. Not good in Texas. The other thing is-when I turn the car off I hear a kind of buzz that seems to emanate from behind and to the left of the glove box. Is there where the FSU is on my car? And could that be causing my ac problems? The battery also drains after a couple of days without driving.

Lots more bothersome things going on with this car, but those are the major ones.
The car has 230k miles and has been an absolutely fabulous car for me, but not having proper ac is a drag. I can repair this myself as long as I know where to look for the part. It's not under the passenger beneath the glovebox--at least not that I can see (I removed the cover-which in this case, has two screws-you don't just yank it off).

Help is greatly appreciated.

Starless
10-19-2010, 08:13 PM
Hello All,
This is a great forum, thanks so much.
Now...I know the FSU issue has been batted around quite a bit, but here is my issue.
My ac blows cold-..okay cold-ish, except on the driver defrost and floor vents. No matter what the setting is-the air there is hot. Quite hot. Not good in Texas. The other thing is-when I turn the car off I hear a kind of buzz that seems to emanate from behind and to the left of the glove box. Is there where the FSU is on my car? And could that be causing my ac problems? The battery also drains after a couple of days without driving.

Lots more bothersome things going on with this car, but those are the major ones.
The car has 230k miles and has been an absolutely fabulous car for me, but not having proper ac is a drag. I can repair this myself as long as I know where to look for the part. It's not under the passenger beneath the glovebox--at least not that I can see (I removed the cover-which in this case, has two screws-you don't just yank it off).

Help is greatly appreciated.

This diy is for E46 cars only. I'm not sure if E36 FSU is similar or not but if you post in the E36 section of the forum I'm sure you'll get better help there. Here is the link:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=97

Welcome to bimmerfest! :)

slangups
10-19-2010, 08:47 PM
thanks very much

bluebee
10-19-2010, 08:54 PM
This diy is for E46 cars only.

And, while we're at it, here are the DIYs for the E39 from the bestlinks thread (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5455479&postcount=39).

- FAN CONTROL: poorly ventilated fan-control (FSU/FSR) modules that are practically sure to go haywire due to poor heat-sink design (1 (http://www.540i6.com/finalstagereplacement.html)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3887553&postcount=236)) (3 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4450488&postcount=292)) (4 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309399)) (5 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4437275&postcount=3)) (6 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3203133)) (7 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3523483&postcount=1)) (8 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472392)) ... Autopsy (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3203133&postcount=148)) (2 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=16684783&postcount=9)) (3 (http://electricwiringdiagram.com/bmw-320i-air-conditioning-wiring-diagram.htm)) (4 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=16690365&postcount=2))

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=173718&stc=1&d=1233568427

marqe36
10-24-2010, 05:11 PM
On my 2001 M3 convertible..

I am stuck in the middle of this DIY. Before I can have access to the FSU itself, the motor bracket is in the way where I'm having trouble getting out of the way. The lower screw was easily visible and is now removed, now the other screw?? where can I find it.. I've looked around and there nothing visible. Mind you the air duct is still intact since it doesn't seem to pull out easy. Please help!!

Starless
10-24-2010, 05:55 PM
On my 2001 M3 convertible..

I am stuck in the middle of this DIY. Before I can have access to the FSU itself, the motor bracket is in the way where I'm having trouble getting out of the way. The lower screw was easily visible and is now removed, now the other screw?? where can I find it.. I've looked around and there nothing visible. Mind you the air duct is still intact since it doesn't seem to pull out easy. Please help!!

The arrow in one of my pictures points to its location. It's not easily visible but can be reached with a torx screwdriver. Just stick a torx driver there and you'll feel it. I took me a good 5-7 minutes to remove that screw, so be patient...

ToddJ
10-25-2010, 07:44 PM
That was a great DIY pictorial. I replaced my blower motor resistor a week ago. I did it the same way you described in your DIY. Great job.

Starless
10-29-2010, 10:07 AM
I personally have no problem of buying parts from eBay. If you look at one of the links above, the part is Behr brand. So there is no question about the part. After I get the original part, the rest is not important to me. I believe the big sellers still have big margins on the parts although they sell less than BMW dealers. I think eBay is the main selling channel for the companies/individuals who have no access to big sellers.

Kubi, I also do not mind ebay for some purchases at all. If this is Behr and made in Germany that *should* be fine. The problem with FSUs is that even *good* resistors by reputable German brands still fail. It's important to go with the latest updated and improved version and part number issued by BMW. The one that I and other people used seems to be the latest improved part number and so far so good. If you ordered that ebay resistor just keep us updated how it works out for you. This is how we learn on this forum, mainly from experience of other people. If it fails, let us know and if it lasts a long time let us know too.

Update. I looked closer at those ebay resistors:

The part # of the ebay one ends in 3204. I've seen those made by Meyle too. They have 39 heat fins. It's an updated part number but might not fit all E46 properly and some have been known to fail shortly after installation
The part # I recommend ends in 0365. It's an updated part # too (latest I believe), has 58 heat fins and fits all E46 properly. Note, these resistors fail because of overheating. So more heat fins = better ability to dissipate heat.

Rick C.
11-10-2010, 11:15 AM
Thanks so much for that detailed DIY! My blower motor gave me only one warning before it stopped working altogether. I found my part at AutohausAZ.com for $70...followed your steps...and now I'm back in business! It's a little tricky contorting yourself into position and trying to get a light on things, but if you take an occasional break to stretch out...you will get it done.

EnduroGuy
11-12-2010, 04:04 PM
Haven't noticed any fluctuating fans speeds (unless it's on auto) but my ac is not blowing cold even after a fresh charge. Cool at best.

Could the fsu still be contributing to this even if the blower seems to be functioning normally?

My local mechanic thinks I may have an oil lock in the dryer or a jammed up expansion valve. I'm not sold on any of it. Input would be appreciated.

Great site btw.

Starless
11-12-2010, 08:17 PM
Haven't noticed any fluctuating fans speeds (unless it's on auto) but my ac is not blowing cold even after a fresh charge. Cool at best.

Could the fsu still be contributing to this even if the blower seems to be functioning normally?

My local mechanic thinks I may have an oil lock in the dryer or a jammed up expansion valve. I'm not sold on any of it. Input would be appreciated.

Great site btw.

Fsu has nothing to do with cold/hot air just the blower motor speed (pulsating, not working at all, etc). You need to have your ac system diagnosed. If you get a constant stream of air, your fsu is fine but you might have a leak somewhere

hudock
11-30-2010, 04:55 PM
Incase anyone is still receiving thread updates, I had the same issue, 325 blowers just cut out one day, abruptly.

I followed DIY and installed the new FSU. Checked it and system is working fine.

I'm currently stuck though with reassemble. I'm really struggling with getting the Control Motor to reallign with the torx screws. As if almost the wires seem to be holding it up, I'm pretty sure at this point I'm going to give up completely on the top one, any suggestions on bottom one? Anyone else get held up at this point?

Besides that AWESOME DIY that even my Indy said "take it to a dealer" lol.

- hudock

hudock
11-30-2010, 06:58 PM
*Update!! Got it. Didn't bother with top screw but finally got bottom to go in once i pressed on the wire hard enough to make it lay flat against the motor.

Everything works great, awesome DIY! Also, I'm a pretty big guy and it wasn't that bad, cramped for sure, my shoulders are a tad bit sore. Something that helped too was an Android Incredible, camcorder mode with flash, allowed me to easily see the screw up top!

Thanks again!

Starless
11-30-2010, 07:45 PM
*Update!! Got it. Didn't bother with top screw but finally got bottom to go in once i pressed on the wire hard enough to make it lay flat against the motor.

Everything works great, awesome DIY! Also, I'm a pretty big guy and it wasn't that bad, cramped for sure, my shoulders are a tad bit sore. Something that helped too was an Android Incredible, camcorder mode with flash, allowed me to easily see the screw up top!

Thanks again!

You are welcome. Glad you figured it out. Those motor screws can be annoying for sure.

MLC2010
12-02-2010, 11:36 AM
Great DIY. Relaced with the modified BEHR & don't anticipate any problems. This was my first repair to a new to me BMW. Trying to solve the next issue with an intermittent no start.

catso
12-02-2010, 01:18 PM
Great DIY. Relaced with the modified BEHR & don't anticipate any problems. This was my first repair to a new to me BMW. Trying to solve the next issue with an intermittent no start.

Does it always crank? :dunno:

maybebimmer
01-03-2011, 05:52 PM
I had this issue, but over the weekend, I think the fan/blower quit totally. I can still hear the system turn on, but I'm getting no air/heat at all. Am I too late?

Starless
01-03-2011, 09:04 PM
I had this issue, but over the weekend, I think the fan/blower quit totally. I can still hear the system turn on, but I'm getting no air/heat at all. Am I too late?

Do all the lights on the HVAC panel work normal? If yes, then you are probably not too late and it's likely your fsu

zukman31
02-01-2011, 09:12 PM
Ok guys Im a newbie in here but am haveing a problem with my AC/Heater fan blower motor. Friday I had to go jump my daughter 2001 330I off at her school. It charged up on the way home and cranked right up. Saturday morning it was dead again, Went and got a new battery and everything seemed fine. Monday, same thing dead battery. I brought it home myself but when I turned the car off I noticed the fan motor was running slow and I could hear it speed up and slow down and it would never cut compleatly off. I pulled the cabin air filter and you can hear the humming louder in there. So does this sound like the FSU has gone bad? I need to get this fixed so my daughter has a way back and forth to school. From the excellent DIY write up I do believe this will be an easy fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone
Jimmy

hudock
02-02-2011, 04:52 AM
Morning Zukman,

While doing research on replacing my FSU in my 02 325i, I came across others with your exact situation, and many times it was just the FSU.

I read that the FSU can cause the blower to stay on and killing the battery over night.

It was really easy to replace, took about an hour. Hardest part was I'm a pretty big guy and getting under that dash. As soon as I hooked up everything worked fine.

If your worried about spending the cash on an FSU or her needing the car back right away, I would imagine it would be ok to just pull the FSU.

Mind you, your heat goes away, but battery drain should in theory as well.

Anyone else think so?

- hudock

Starless
02-02-2011, 07:16 AM
Ok guys Im a newbie in here but am haveing a problem with my AC/Heater fan blower motor. Friday I had to go jump my daughter 2001 330I off at her school. It charged up on the way home and cranked right up. Saturday morning it was dead again, Went and got a new battery and everything seemed fine. Monday, same thing dead battery. I brought it home myself but when I turned the car off I noticed the fan motor was running slow and I could hear it speed up and slow down and it would never cut compleatly off. I pulled the cabin air filter and you can hear the humming louder in there. So does this sound like the FSU has gone bad? I need to get this fixed so my daughter has a way back and forth to school. From the excellent DIY write up I do believe this will be an easy fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone
Jimmy

Meanwhile she can pull a fuse to stop the fan. It's in the glove box, I do not remember the #, but you can look it up on the card in the fuse box. It will temporarily prevent from killing the battery.

hudock
02-02-2011, 07:17 AM
See that, much better idea!

zukman31
02-02-2011, 08:57 PM
I tried pulling the fuses and it still would run. Im going to try to go tomorrow and get a new FSU and attempt to install it. This was a great DIY write up and I do not think it could be any clearier. Thanks so much for the write up and everyones input..
Jimmy

zukman31
02-07-2011, 01:42 PM
OK guys, Today I replaced the FSU. Believe it or not its actually a pretty easy job. 30 min. total. I cranked the car and everything worked perfect. I shut the car off and the blower motor quit running.. I was soooo dang happy. But I started listening and I could hear a very light noise coming from the Control unit sitting below the radio. I pulled it out and there is a small fan in the back of it that will not stop running. Has anyone ever had this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jimmy

Starless
02-07-2011, 02:37 PM
OK guys, Today I replaced the FSU. Believe it or not its actually a pretty easy job. 30 min. total. I cranked the car and everything worked perfect. I shut the car off and the blower motor quit running.. I was soooo dang happy. But I started listening and I could hear a very light noise coming from the Control unit sitting below the radio. I pulled it out and there is a small fan in the back of it that will not stop running. Has anyone ever had this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jimmy

Yes I made a DIY for it too. It's a sensor blower fan (inside the HVAC unit). It's supposed to run for about 15 minutes after shut off, but silently. The solution is to lube the little bearing

Flycaster
02-07-2011, 03:01 PM
Just an update re my FSU problem: Fan stopped working, but never did slow down. Anyway, as you may recall, I noted that there was a thread that said pulling the two fuses that the FSU uses and replugging them in, is worth a try. Well, did that several months ago, and the fan is still working as it should.

disbsohn
02-12-2011, 11:48 AM
walk through was freakin awesome!! it took me 30 minutes and i was done.. thanks for the help i dont think i woulda known what was wrong with my 325 if it wasnt for you guys!! keep up the good work! :thumbup:

MuZikMaKer
02-26-2011, 08:38 PM
Hi Everyone,

I have a 2000 323i and ran across the FSU (BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR) issue, Blower turning on and off by itself. Saw Starless's DIY which was amazing and easily felt I could do the job. I never buy from the stealership unless absolutely necessary and have always been very fortunate to find what I need on eBay or other online sources.

After doing an eBay search for the FSU, I came across this very unique aftermarket FSU. I have included links to the eBay ad, and the manufacturers website. This thing is short of amazing and you'll see why. (NO COOLER PRONGS & RUNS AT 90 DEGREES WHILE OEM PARTS RUNS AT 250 DEGREES, DID I SAY, NO COOLER PRONGS?)

And GET THIS only $27.45, yes $27.45 plus about $6 bucks in shipping. I have been using it for sometime now with no issues whatsoever and unless I am having a placebo affect, I can swear I'm getting more pump from the blower. (or maybe thats the cabin filter I just replaced? dont know?)

In any case, I was waiting for this thing to stop working or not work at all after installation but honestly, it's just an amazing part. Took me about 45 minutes to complete the installation and a few back ache pills but all is working perfectly. I heard of some people paying $135 at the stealership which is just insane. Hope this helps some of you!!! They also have a reseller program. This could be the find of the year.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-Final-Stage-Unit-FSU-Blower-Motor-Resistor-/170587164447#ht_1329wt_1167

http://betterpartx.com/

catso
02-26-2011, 08:44 PM
Hi Everyone,

I have a 2000 323i and ran across the FSU (BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR) issue, Blower turning on and off by itself. Saw Starless's DIY which was amazing and easily felt I could do the job. I never buy from the stealership unless absolutely necessary and have always been very fortunate to find what I need on eBay or other online sources.

After doing an eBay search for the FSU, I came across this very unique aftermarket FSU. I have included links to the eBay ad, and the manufacturers website. This thing is short of amazing and you'll see why. (NO COOLER PRONGS & RUNS AT 90 DEGREES WHILE OEM PARTS RUNS AT 250 DEGREES, DID I SAY, NO COOLER PRONGS?)

And GET THIS only $27.45, yes $27.45 plus about $6 bucks in shipping. I have been using it for sometime now with no issues whatsoever and unless I am having a placebo affect, I can swear I'm getting more pump from the blower. (or maybe thats the cabin filter I just replaced? dont know?)

In any case, I was waiting for this thing to stop working or not work at all after installation but honestly, it's just an amazing part. Took me about 45 minutes to complete the installation and a few back ache pills but all is working perfectly. I heard of some people paying $135 at the stealership which is just insane. Hope this helps some of you!!! They also have a reseller program. This could be the find of the year.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-Final-Stage-Unit-FSU-Blower-Motor-Resistor-/170587164447#ht_1329wt_1167

http://betterpartx.com/

:confused: Funny how I don't see you on the sponsor's list.....:tsk:

MuZikMaKer
02-26-2011, 08:47 PM
Hi there,

Sorry I'm new to all this. This is my first post ever of any kind (so I guess I'm what the veterans call noobie?)
Anyhow, what do you mean " Funny how I don't see you on the sponsor's list....".

Regards

MuZikMaKer
02-26-2011, 09:09 PM
Hi again everyone,

Forgot to add that they have a lifetime warranty too. I've heard that some people have gone through like 2 or 3 or these during the life of their cars and if they're paying stealership prices, do the math..With this you pay $27 bucks and that's it for life. Sorry if I sound like a spokesman but I'm super frugal and you really don't need to pay so much for this dingy part.

Again, hope this helps some of you.

Starless
02-27-2011, 04:13 PM
Hi there,

Sorry I'm new to all this. This is my first post ever of any kind (so I guess I'm what the veterans call noobie?)
Anyhow, what do you mean " Funny how I don't see you on the sponsor's list....".

Regards

It means - become this site sponsor and only then advertise your product. :thumbdwn::thumbdwn::thumbdwn:

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 04:38 PM
It means - become this site sponsor and only then advertise your product.

Hi Starless,

Again please explain what I'm doing wrong. I'm not advertising my product and I'm not advertising for anyone else. Am I not supposed to add links to other websites. please let me know. Again, I am new to all this and I believe I gave some really good info to help out some people and you guys are giving me thumbs down, confused looks.***** what a rough place for a new person, lol, (just joking guys) but honestly someone please spell it out for me so I don't offend anyone.

Thanks!

hudock
02-27-2011, 06:01 PM
Clearly he is the owner of this product, however, he has some positive reviews on ebay already for the item. I may try it if my replacement fails ever!

- hudock

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 06:05 PM
Hi there hudock,

Is your reply stating I am the owner of the product?

hudock
02-27-2011, 06:13 PM
Oh no, not at all, Im pretty new to these forums, I don't really know how this all works.

(MOD Feel free to delete these posts that have clearly hijacked the thread. I seriously considered not replying but way to much of a smile for me) :angel::angel::angel:

- hudock

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 06:17 PM
Hello Bimmerfest,

If there is a reasonable person on this thread? please let me know.*****!!..I posted some information about a great product I found simply to try and share and all I've been getting is crap from people telling me this is my product. THIS IS NOT MY PRODUCT!! I DONT SELL AUTO PARTS..I found this on eBay and simply wanted to share my experience because I was stoked about getting this issue fixed so cheap...For those of you who are reasonable and need this to fix your car, use it..I especially love hudock's reply "Clearly he is the owner of this product, however, he has some positive reviews on ebay already for the item. I may try it if my replacement fails ever!"....***** what a pompus..then he replies again with more sarcasm..what the hell?...i will leave you to your little club here and never post about a find..... what an uncomfortable forum

catso
02-27-2011, 06:30 PM
Hello Bimmerfest,

If there is a reasonable person on this thread? please let me know.*****!!..I posted some information about a great product I found simply to try and share and all I've been getting is crap from people telling me this is my product. THIS IS NOT MY PRODUCT!! I DONT SELL AUTO PARTS..I found this on eBay and simply wanted to share my experience because I was stoked about getting this issue fixed so cheap...For those of you who are reasonable and need this to fix your car, use it..I especially love hudock's reply "Clearly he is the owner of this product, however, he has some positive reviews on ebay already for the item. I may try it if my replacement fails ever!"....***** what a pompus..then he replies again with more sarcasm..what the hell?...i will leave you to your little club here and never post about a find..... what an uncomfortable forum

Don't let the door hit you on the ass on your way out.....:rolleyes:

hudock
02-27-2011, 06:32 PM
:rofl:

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 06:42 PM
LOL..come on is this for real? you guys are hysterical and creepy..never mind the point of this forum which is to help people..I just dont get it? turn the light on and get out of moms basement . I seriously don't understand what is going on? just tried to help..casto and hubard,...do you guys sit at this forum all day.?..your replies are instant...I refuse to believe everyone is like you too...hopefully someone will reply that the info helped them...

hudock
02-27-2011, 06:46 PM
I use my phone to post, so yeah, its pretty instant. And listen, were just having fun. I clearly just jumped on the bandwagon from everyone else. Do we think you are affiliated with this product? Of course we do, but that's ok. I gave you a plug, i saw it had some good reviews.

Again, if mine ever fails again, I will try that product.

- hubard ;)

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 06:55 PM
Im glad to hear its in good fun but for the last time..IT ISN'T MY PRODUCT!!! I own a cell phone store so if you want a phone i'll push that lol...But darn it, it isn't product..i dont want to insult you and anyone else but to me it's pompous because your so locked into thinking its mine but it isnt, lol..

I FOUND IT AND EBAY AND SIMPLY WANTED TO HELP.!! why is it so hard for you and others to believe..i think my writeup just sounded like an advertisement and if so i apologize for that...

iphone 4 or evo anyone??

1Dreamer
02-27-2011, 07:11 PM
Guys, I find no evidence to suggest that he is affiliated with the product. Cut the new guy some slack until you have evidence to the contrary. :stickpoke

Hey new guy, we usually don't have someone come here and make their first post with links to a product for sale. I'd have thought the same thing, so please cut them some slack as well.

Thank you. Carry on. :)

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 07:29 PM
Hi 1Dreamer,

Thanks for the support. I completely understand how the guys could have thought I was affiliated, I write listings all day for my cell phone store and after reading my original post I could see how it looks like a product push..Hope we can all just get along , lol...I am a frugal buyer and I just wanted to pass on a killer discount part that really works..

have a good night all!

PS: Felt like a gang initiation lol

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 08:16 PM
so can someone please tell me, do I NOT post links to other sites or products? THX

1Dreamer
02-27-2011, 09:31 PM
so can someone please tell me, do I NOT post links to other sites or products? THXNo, it's fine. You just can't advertise your own products unless you're a site sponsor. Otherwise this place would get spammed to death and drive everyone away. If you find a product you really like that has worked well for you, by all means, share. :)

MuZikMaKer
02-27-2011, 09:43 PM
Ok, i still don't follow "site sponsor" but i guess if it has to do with selling anything here, don't really need to know now as we have already established im not selling anything here lol..Thanks again 1dreamer, appreciate your help! ..and BTW yes, this part kicked ass, couldn't believe how cheap it was (and different looking) but it seems like its all that company manufactures which is probably is why it works..its still working great..really hope some people take heed..the dealer prices are crazy..Have a good evening!

MuZikMaKer
02-28-2011, 11:44 AM
Hi,

Had a question hope someone can answer. Before I replaced my FSU, every time I turn my car on, the climate control would automatically turn on as well. After installing the FSU, still does the same thing. Is this normal for BMW's or this particular model (3-series?). Is there something I can set in the computer to stop the CC from turning on when the car turn on's.

Ant help of info would be appreciated..thx!

MuZikMaKer
02-28-2011, 11:49 AM
To clarify, the CC turns on at the lowest setting..it has always done this since I got the car..i just thought maybe it may have something to do with the FSU, clearly the FSU I installed has nothing to do with this because it has done it before and I could have sworn my sisters 330xi did the same thing...any thoughts? (btw, fsu is still working perfectly, lots of heat in this crazy NYC weather.)

MuZikMaKer
02-28-2011, 05:18 PM
Spoke to BMW today and they said climate control turns on when ignition is turned so final comment on the aftermarket fsu repair is thumbs up, works perfect!!..give more pump to the blower. easier install, super cheap, lifetime warranty, and as starless stated in his DIY,, no need to remove motor or air duct to install...thanks 1dreamer and Tim for your help also!!

hudock
02-28-2011, 05:45 PM
:stickpoke

are we done?

av98
02-28-2011, 07:16 PM
Great DIY Starless! Keep up the awesome work. :)

Fifty_Cent
03-07-2011, 09:39 AM
I'll link it there later :) Thanks!

New FSU definitely solved the pulsating/interrupted air stream problem. Cause it started getting annoying...A lot of maintenance still ahead...
Mine started having the same problem on startup...I can hear the fan speed pulsating, and then it will work ok....wonder if its the same problem...

BlackThunder
03-15-2011, 05:22 PM
Is there anybody that had the case that a faulty blower motor caused a faulty FSU blower motor resistor? I am asking because I am suspicious that blower motor would be in bad shape or the fuse for the blower motor was replaced and upgraded to a higher fuse capacity (ie. from 20amp to 40amp) just to keep the blower running.

bluebee
03-15-2011, 08:09 PM
Is there anybody that had the case that a faulty blower motor caused a faulty FSU blower motor resistor? I am asking because I am suspicious that blower motor would be in bad shape or the fuse for the blower motor was replaced and upgraded to a higher fuse capacity (ie. from 20amp to 40amp) just to keep the blower running.

I don't know fact but there have been MANY who 'suspected' the blower motor actually blew the FSU (in some cases, multiple FSUs).

For example, see this from a couple days ago (03-11-2011):
- Heater motor issues? (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5910917&postcount=3)
I have replaced the 'FSU' 3 times now. The garage says the 'FSU' is OK and that the 'heater motor' is broken and that the 'heater motor' destroys the 'FSU'.

In the the VERY best of E39 Links (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165198), you'll find more details:

- FAN CONTROL GOES HAYWIRE: poorly ventilated final stage resistor/final stage unit (FSR/FSU) modules that are practically sure to go haywire due to poor heat-sink design (1 (http://www.540i6.com/finalstagereplacement.html)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3887553&postcount=236)) (3 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4450488&postcount=292)) (4 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309399)) (5 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4437275&postcount=3)) (6 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3203133)) (7 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3523483&postcount=1)) (8 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472392)) ... Autopsy (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309399)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3203133&postcount=148)) often causing the battery to drain overnight (1 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1079602)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5620764)) (3 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=341891)) & how to isolate and replace the blower motor (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5777823&postcount=2)) (2 (http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/45351)) (3 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343525)) (4 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5899354&postcount=4))

mikevaquez
03-23-2011, 12:52 PM
Just did mine today and it was a breeze thanks to your instructions. Thanks for a good DIY!

Tom Moore
04-09-2011, 09:29 AM
Awesome DIY. I've ordered the part and perhaps I'll report back on how it went. Just the size of that radiator array tells you there is too much stress on this part! Hopefully the new ones are up to the job...

bluebee
04-09-2011, 02:09 PM
Just the size of that radiator array tells you there is too much stress on this part!

And, all it does, apparently, for all that heat dissipation, is control something as simple as the fan speed.

willyhood
04-18-2011, 05:27 PM
I'm new and not sure if I'm putting this in the right place, but on a 2001 325i, what fuses do I need to check for a heater/ac blower that does not work at all?

Starless
04-18-2011, 08:27 PM
I'm new and not sure if I'm putting this in the right place, but on a 2001 325i, what fuses do I need to check for a heater/ac blower that does not work at all?

Do not remember off top of my head, but there should be a fuse chart in the fuse compartment. Is yours missing?

willyhood
04-19-2011, 09:01 AM
Thank you for your reply, Alex. I do have a fuse chart, but I'm told there are several fuses that relate to the blower, and want to make sure I test them all.

Fifty_Cent
04-20-2011, 08:23 AM
Mine started having the same problem on startup...I can hear the fan speed pulsating, and then it will work ok....wonder if its the same problem...

So is this BEHR product a good part to change the oem with?
Blower Motor Resistor (Final Stage Unit) for BMW vehicles

<TABLE id=ctl00_Zone1_tblPartDetailTable class=PartDetailTable border=0>*******><TR><TD id=ctl00_Zone1_tcImage class=partDetailImage>http://data.eeuroparts.com/Images/parts/md_64116920365.jpg Zoom in (javascript:WebForm_DoPostBackWithOptions(new WebForm_PostBackOptions("ctl00$Zone1$btnImageZoom", "", true, "", "", false, true)))

</TD><TD id=ctl00_Zone1_tcPartDetailArea class=partDetailArea>Name: Blower Motor Resistor (Final Stage Unit)
Part Code: 64 11 6 920 365
Brand: http://data.eeuroparts.com/Images/manufacturers/sm_b41e7c13-bade-40de-beb3-f35d9e7e1ba9.gif
Description: A/C Heater blower motor resistor (aka final stage unit).


Price: $64.90


Quantity: (javascript:WebForm_DoPostBackWithOptions(new WebForm_PostBackOptions("ctl00$Zone1$btnQuantity", "", true, "", "", false, true))) ******* style="WIDTH: 30px" id=ctl00_Zone1_tbQuantity value=1 maxLength=3 name=ctl00$Zone1$tbQuantity>******* style="BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 10px; BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px" id=ctl00_Zone1_btnAddToCart alt="Add to Shopping Cart" align=absMiddle src="../App_Themes/default/Images/btnAddToCart.gif" type=image name=ctl00$Zone1$btnAddToCart></TD></TR>********></TABLE>

Starless
04-20-2011, 04:23 PM
^^^ Yes, the BEHR unit part # ending in 0365 is a good FSU.

willyhood
04-20-2011, 04:58 PM
Is it true that in the 2001 325i, I should be mindful of a midyear product change in the FSU final resistor for the blower?

conrad721
05-06-2011, 11:43 PM
^^^ Yes, the BEHR unit part # ending in 0365 is a good FSU.

yup, i too got BEHR from the dealer.
used this DIY and got my fan working again.
i completed it in about 1.5 hrs.

never had any fan oscillating problem.
however, i experienced it stop and work again.
then one day it just died.

thanks to starless.
bimmerfest FTW! :thumbup:

Keomapedro
05-07-2011, 06:02 AM
I just got my first BMW. It's a 2001 320I. Reasonably well maintained.
I've noticed the first issue. The blower is pulsating intermittently. It's ramping like: "voom", "voom", "voom", "voom". Mainly on 1st & 2nd speed. When I switch to 3rd & 4th, it runs continuously. Can someone please help? Thank you, K.Pedro.

slimg00dy
05-07-2011, 02:09 PM
this took me about 3 hours to do particularly on picture 6 I didnt realize the there were 2 screws holding the motor mount. if you could please specify that there is a hidden screw on top that would be great.

slimg00dy
05-07-2011, 02:11 PM
by the way thanks.

hhariri
05-10-2011, 03:42 PM
Well after 61k the dreaded FSU finally went bad on me a month ago. Used this excellent DIY to replace it over the weekend. Took just under 2 hours.

Thank you Starless (Alex?) for sharing. You have saved a lot of people a lot money!

Cheers

cfmdev2000
05-11-2011, 09:35 PM
Mine stop functioning today no ac nor heat in fact no air blowing period, how can I make sure it's not the blower motor or booth? Excuse me but I have never done a single repair and am a total noob....... HELP

catso
05-11-2011, 09:42 PM
Mine stop functioning today no ac nor heat in fact no air blowing period, ow can I make sure it's not the blower motor or booth? Excuse me but I have never done a single repair and am a total noob....... HELP

Start with checking the fuse.

bluebee
05-12-2011, 09:16 AM
Do not remember off top of my head, but there should be a fuse chart in the fuse compartment. Is yours missing?

From the VERY best of E39 Links (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165198) thread:

- Where to find E39 fuse boxes (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5894077&postcount=11)) (2 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1472510)) (WDS (http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/e39new/index.htm)) (WDS.ru (http://www.bmwtech.ru/wds/)) & how to find the front passenger seat undercarpet fuse panel (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423666))

Tom Moore
05-14-2011, 02:21 PM
Fabulous DIY! Thank you so much! About the only thing I could have used was a note about that extremely hard to see or reach bracket screw being nicely caught in a horizontal channel leading to the screw hole. That made it a whole lot easier to reinstall than I feared when I started unscrewing it!

Three cheers for Starless!

Splitknuckle
07-14-2011, 08:09 PM
Starless, thanks for your post on replacing the AC blower resistor. It was excellent and I had no problems following your instructions. Fixed the problem and saved $460 over the dealer quote!!!$$$:)

Starless
07-14-2011, 09:26 PM
Starless, thanks for your post on replacing the AC blower resistor. It was excellent and I had no problems following your instructions. Fixed the problem and saved $460 over the dealer quote!!!$$$:)

No problem, glad it helped! :thumbup:

bluebee
07-15-2011, 02:36 AM
For the record, we're 'still' trying to (anecdotally) identify which is the 'right' FSU/FSR to buy (that won't fail):

- What is the right brand FSU/FSR to purchase when your interior heating & air conditioning HVAC/IHKA blower motor goes haywire (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528566)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5452052#post5452052))

If you have information about which brands fail on the E46, that would be helpful to add to that thread.

CQHixi
07-26-2011, 07:03 AM
Nice pics, excellent job in describing the fix. I suspect I have to go through this, my display works 100% of the time but the blower is inconsistent--sometimes it blows like it should, sometimes it blows really hard and then really soft (alternating for the entire trip) and sometimes it just decides to quit blowing altogehter. At least the display thinks it's working!
Anyhow, I noticed that this is for a 2001 325, I wonder if it's the same as for a 2002 330ci? From other forums and online searches I think I've heard the FSU location described as being behind the glove box, so this sounds right--just want to confirm that with someone if at all possible before I get to ordering the part....
Thanks in advance,

Starless
07-26-2011, 11:21 AM
Nice pics, excellent job in describing the fix. I suspect I have to go through this, my display works 100% of the time but the blower is inconsistent--sometimes it blows like it should, sometimes it blows really hard and then really soft (alternating for the entire trip) and sometimes it just decides to quit blowing altogehter. At least the display thinks it's working!
Anyhow, I noticed that this is for a 2001 325, I wonder if it's the same as for a 2002 330ci? From other forums and online searches I think I've heard the FSU location described as being behind the glove box, so this sounds right--just want to confirm that with someone if at all possible before I get to ordering the part....
Thanks in advance,

Yes, what you are describing IS the symptom of a bad FSU. It fails on all e46 cars, it does not matter if it's 2001 325i or 2002 330i. I would not hesitate to order and install the part.

elader
07-31-2011, 09:24 AM
Resurrecting this old thread just to say a big thank you. The blower just died, no fuses blown..I thought I could hear it turning slowly so I followed the instructions here to replace the fsu and yay it all works now. I can't begin to imagine how much this website has saved me over the years.

farrpost
08-06-2011, 08:51 PM
Thanks for the post.

This made the job easy.

t1nm4n
10-08-2011, 08:18 PM
Sorry for bringing up an old thread..

I'm new to BMW's and glad there's a helpful community like bimmerfest. Along with someone that know's how to write a DIY.

bobbiejohn
12-18-2011, 08:59 PM
Haha, I just like to take pictures of my repairs when they come up :)

Thanks everybody for comments. I'll need to include some other good FSU links for those who decide to remove the air duct. It's a couple of extra steps from what I've read.
Starless,

Thanks for the innformation on the FSU. I had the ssame thing happen to me with my CFO in the car on the way to the airport!

I'm also from St. Louis. Do you have an indie place that you use for serious repairs? Dealer is way expensive!

Starless
12-18-2011, 09:31 PM
Starless,

Thanks for the innformation on the FSU. I had the ssame thing happen to me with my CFO in the car on the way to the airport!

I'm also from St. Louis. Do you have an indie place that you use for serious repairs? Dealer is way expensive!

Bavarian is an awesome indie shop. Reasonable rates, honest knowledgeable mechanics. Can be opinionated about certain things and stubborn, but I have yet to see a mechanic who would not be... They have 2 locations now, in Olivette and in Manchester. Highly recommend them. They have a very good reputation in stl.

stlmethod
03-12-2012, 12:16 PM
Agree about Bavarian. Very good and opinionated, they do good work for a lot less. Debating on them or me doing the FSU.

PugLord
04-01-2012, 07:17 AM
Easy fix because of your post.

Thanks Mike:thumbup:

Solanab88
04-02-2012, 07:23 AM
This was my first DIY, whish I had seen this post prior, nice job!!

6sleight6
05-07-2012, 02:08 PM
Thanks to this and a couple other video's it took me 17 minutes to replace the FSU, saved me $200 easy!

Almost longer to watch the DIY's than it is to actually replace.

/hugs!

tol4o
05-29-2012, 08:27 AM
I had my blower changing and jumping speed for more than a year. This morning it was completely dead. I am pretty sure is the FSU but I'll check the fuse first, it's easy enough.
Thanks for the nice DIY I am sure I'll use it very soon :)

Mark in TX
06-10-2012, 05:03 PM
Currently attempting FSU removal. Ain't budging.

What do you grab to pull it out? I'm grabbing the harness, which doesn't seem too smart and the connector keeps disconnecting when I do and then there's nothing to grab to pull it out.

I did one of these in another E46 a year ago but am just having an absolute hell of a time with this one. Hands shredded from the sharp plastic bits down there.

What am I missing? I'm aware of the locking tab on the FSU and the upper T20.

Suggestions?

Starless
06-10-2012, 09:50 PM
Currently attempting FSU removal. Ain't budging.

What do you grab to pull it out? I'm grabbing the harness, which doesn't seem too smart and the connector keeps disconnecting when I do and then there's nothing to grab to pull it out.

I did one of these in another E46 a year ago but am just having an absolute hell of a time with this one. Hands shredded from the sharp plastic bits down there.

What am I missing? I'm aware of the locking tab on the FSU and the upper T20.

Suggestions?

Have no idea...It should come out. But let us know when you figure out...I just pulled it by the harness and it came out with zero drama as far as I remember...

Jammer754
06-11-2012, 08:42 PM
Have no idea...It should come out. But let us know when you figure out...I just pulled it by the harness and it came out with zero drama as far as I remember...

I just changed my FSU, Great write up Starless. I have a response to the above question. On one side of the FSU is a hard black plastic tab on the side toward the firewall that helps hold the FSU in place. I had to push back and hold it with a screw driver while I pulled and wiggled the FSU out of its socket with the other hand.

Thanks again Starless. I could not have changed the FSU without your write up and pictures.

Mark in TX
06-15-2012, 11:26 AM
A few thoughts as a follow-up to my post above.

Although I had done this job once before on another E46, this one really kicked my ass. As I suspected, the original FSU was just an incredibly tight fit. Finally got it out and got everything back together. I'll add to the OP's original write-up that if you have hands wearing anything larger than a medium glove size, get someone with smaller hands to help you. Also, wear work gloves; there's a lot of sharp-edged plastic down there. And of course a small flashlight is key. Mine broke in the midst of the job but I borrowed a nice one to finish up. If you can lodge it up near where you're working, it'll help tremendously. You definitely need both hands free.

It's a hassle mainly due to the contortionist act one has to perform but the job is straight forward and I'd recommend DIY vs paying someone else. Another plus is you can take your time putting it back together, which a mechanic on the clock may not do as carefully as you.

Also, on the topic discussed earlier in the thread about various FSU re-designs:

The first one I replaced came out of an '02 E46 sedan and was the earlier design with a small number of cooling fins. That car had been experiencing the pulsating blower fan symptom. This recent one I removed from a June '03 E46 sedan and has the same number of cooling fins as the new Behr FSU. See photos. The Behr part number, however, is different on the 2 units. The original FSU started acting up in summer of 2010. I did not use the car at all during summer of 2011 but I figured I'd replace this year before it went haywire again. I had experienced the fun symptom where the fan won't turn off at all and will kill the battery unless you start pulling fuses (which does work as a temporary fix).

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/aurelius3/Random%20BMW%20Pics/91fdd045.jpg
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/aurelius3/Random%20BMW%20Pics/9be98848.jpg

indru123
06-28-2012, 03:33 PM
This is a great forum for BMW owners. Especially for those who can do some repairs themselves. I used the instructions as given here to get access to FSU and the instructions are great with pictures. I tried to replace my FSU and got stuck at the control motor. I have removed both T-20 screws holding the control motor and the motor is loose, however, it would not come off from the side slot in the frame. I have tried every way to get it off but have been unsuccessful in my efforts. Is there any special way to tilt the motor in order to remove it? I am afraid that if I use too much force I might break the side tab and end up with a bigger problem. Any helpful tip will be highly appreciated. Thanks.

Indru

Mark in TX
07-04-2012, 02:30 PM
As noted in prior posts, you do have to move the locking tab toward the front of the car to release it. You don't have to move it much -- the remaining issue may well be what I reported above, that being just a really tight fit. Ironically, the new FSU will pop right in.

It helps tremendously to lodge a small flashlight up near where your hands are working. I lodged it somewhere above the black plastic air vent.

Mechanic's gloves (at least on the right hand) plus a pad for your knees are a plus too.

Aside from all the bending forward, reassembly is easy but do take the time to think thru the correct routing of the wires for the glove box lamp and flashlight charger.

jburns
07-07-2012, 01:15 PM
I just replaced mine the night before last. The blower had been acting up off and on for the past year. It had worked flawlessly for the past few months and then the day before yesterday it quit. It was 105 degrees that day! So, I came back to this DIY and printed it out to take to the garage! The hardest part for me with this DIY was getting to the 2 Torx screws, especially putting them back in!!! I taped the screws to the end of my Torx Driver when reassembling. I just don't see how you can successfully get them back in without doing that or having a good magnetic Torx driver! Anyway, much appreciated Starless!!!

Bimero
08-15-2012, 08:03 PM
Thank you so much from the deep of my heart and wallet!!
I replace the fsr in my 2001 330i following your diy.
I pay 23$ for a new resistor in Ebay and i did the job in 1 hour.
I really appreciate you.

Starless
08-15-2012, 08:17 PM
You are very welcome and welcome to the forum! :thumbup:
Make a thread if you need help in the future with anything else, there are people here who can offer a solid piece of advice.

Jlsclarity
08-18-2012, 12:27 PM
I appreciate all of you for posting here - I have no doubt i would have paid hundreds of dollars for this fix at the dealer or somewhere else..

I paid $52.09 at www.autohausaz.com - and they shipped it to me for free. It took me 15 minutes to put in, most of which was trying to get it to fit back in (it did not, fully - although the bolt holes lined up, it wouldnt go in far enough to click in. But it sat firmly in the spot).

Im thanking God for you guys right now! No more riding in the rain with the windows down.

GoForthFast
08-19-2012, 08:36 PM
Thank you so much from the deep of my heart and wallet!!
I replace the fsr in my 2001 330i following your diy.
I pay 23$ for a new resistor in Ebay and i did the job in 1 hour.
I really appreciate you.

You probably bought a cheap sub-par in quality FSU that comes from China.
These frequently fail quickly. Don't be surprised.

yetieater
08-19-2012, 10:16 PM
I'm convinced that this is a problem with electrical contacts and not a part failure. Anyone else?

Gerry4.0
08-26-2012, 09:05 AM
Just a quick Thank You to Alex for doing this write up :thumbup:. I'm not sure what the dealer charges for this repair but I'm sure it's more then the $60 I paid for the part.

The blower in my wife's 2001 330 died two weeks ago so I started searching for a fix and found your thread. I read your instructions and after 45 minutes kneeling on the garage floor reaching under the dash I had the FSU replaced and everything back together again. The blower woks as it should and my wife is happy so that's all the matters :D.

As for the FSU itself.... Mine is the BEHR/Hella one pictured above and I order mine from AutohausAZ for $60 shipped.

Anyway, just wanted to say Thank You for saving me and many others a trip to the repair shop.

Gerry

akabdog
10-13-2012, 04:38 PM
Great DIY, thanks for that.
Once I completed the FSU install I noticed that I had broken the plastic connector on the control motor to the metal rod. I tried to figure out what it does, when I turn the AC off and on it actuates 180 degrees, but I see no change in the functionality of my AC.

A few questions for you guys:
1. What does this part actually do?
2. If I can live without it, should I zip tie the rod one direction or the other?
3. If I can't live without it, does anyone know how to replace it? Half the plastic is still attached to the rod and my searches online haven't revealed the exact piece of this part that I need, nor how to disassemble the big part that I have (pic below).

Thanks again!
http://www.the408.com/temp/bmwMotor.jpg

Starless
10-13-2012, 06:04 PM
My understanding is that this motor is responsible for switching between supplying the flow of air from the outside and re-circulating air withing the cabin. Activated by the corresponding buttons below the HVAC controls. You can live without it but if there is a diesel truck in front of you, re-circulation usually helps :-) Not sure how to go about fixing it, I'd somehow figure that out if I needed to, but I've never done it before.

akabdog
10-13-2012, 07:13 PM
Your correct sir, thanks for the quick reply.
Switching from external to internal air does activate that motor (well its more of a actuator, imo).
I rarely use re-circulation (unless I'm in cow country), but I may still replace it, if someone knows the part and how to do it... maybe I'll leave my glove box off for a week and see if anyone replies.

Thanks again!

My understanding is that this motor is responsible for switching between supplying the flow of air from the outside and re-circulating air withing the cabin. Activated by the corresponding buttons below the HVAC controls. You can live without it but if there is a diesel truck in front of you, re-circulation usually helps :-) Not sure how to go about fixing it, I'd somehow figure that out if I needed to, but I've never done it before.

athomas387
11-29-2012, 05:59 AM
DYI is flawless. Removed the FSU in wifes car after a year of her delaying nd stalling from a dealer shop visit.
Done in less than when I deduct the time forgetting that there is a tab holding the FSU in place.

Thanks Starless.

jaysubway
12-27-2012, 03:55 PM
is there a way to check this? sorry if this has been answered and I missed it. fuse is good. fan used to flutter a little once in a while. But nothing really bad.. today fan turned on and then a second later quit completely. could the fsu be the problem or the fan motor itself? any thoughts?

thanks a lot in advance

jay

MOOSE4GOLF
05-03-2013, 05:40 PM
Fresh from completing my replacement FSU.
Couple of comments: I also did not remove the control, merely positioned it out of the way a bit. I did, however remove the air tunnel. I don't know how easily the swap would have been without completely removing it but I would suggest trying to swap without removing the air tunnel first. Reason is it is hard to get it repositioned completely. I think I finally got it back as it should be. Related to that, make sure your actuators work properly before buttoning everything back up. Mine were. just turn the key on and select the floor vent, then the dash vent and watch the upper actuator movement (above the tunnel). Also check the "recirc" button and observe the actuator arm down by the FSU. I also left the connector on the old FSU until I pulled it out, made it easier to unlatch the connector I believe.

Thanks to all for the documentation of their replacement, especially Starless for the great pics. If anyone has a question i'll try to answer (I don't get on here everyday though).

MOOSE4GOLF
05-03-2013, 07:02 PM
BTW, I received the exact same part as Starless got, although from a different vender, shown in the first pic in the original post to this thread. Mine was $59.95 plus S/H from Turner motorsports. I had specified in my order that the part must be Made in Germany, not China. I received a nice e-mail confirmation that my order was being processed and that the part was in fact made in Germany.

My original FSU also was exactly like the pic #10 in the original post. Hopefully the new 58-pin heat sink will not have the same issue down the road.

tol4o
05-03-2013, 09:35 PM
I replaced mine last summer and I can confirm it's PITA
Be prepared to:
- sweat like a pig and lose 2-3 pounds of weight /my advice have a gallon of water close by/
- stay at least half an hour with your body position at 45 degree legs up and head shoveled under the glove box
- wish you had a third hand for the flashlight
- swear like never before
- after all you will be proud that you did it yourself and nobody can take you away that pleasure :)
Good luck

knopp113
05-12-2013, 05:27 AM
We don't get ac out of the center vent, just warm to hot, even when the vent setting is on 3 blue dots. Could this be a faulty fsu? Thanks

Takashi Alfred
05-22-2013, 10:22 PM
Hi, I am new here but I really thank you experts for the information in 525i series.
My car stop blowing air at all,:cry: and here in Houston the temperature is going up each day, I was about to order the FSU replacement part, but I have to wait 2 days for shipping. Well then I have the idea to clean up the FSU, I use the CRC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner, and it works great, I spray the large pins with out touching any electronic device, I wait the same time as I were cleaning my Air Sensor, and finally I put it back in place, Turn on my car and YES, YES!,,,it really works . At least it will save me a few dollars until the part fails again. I will post back if I have the problem back. Thank you for all the information, I really feel my self a DYS Guy!!! :rofl:

GoForthFast
05-23-2013, 10:41 PM
Sorry to be the downer that tells you your repair is bogus. Will fail again soon and might darn well leave you stranded.

Yazied
08-24-2013, 06:41 PM
Does this also apply to a 2001 325 ci ?


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Starless
08-24-2013, 07:31 PM
Does this also apply to a 2001 325 ci ?


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Absolutely, still an e46 :-)


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Yazied
08-24-2013, 07:36 PM
Awesome man ! Bought mine last week , replaced a couple things so far , the blower works but runs high speed only . Also I turn it off when I shut the car off but when I start the car it's on by itself ! Hope replacing the fsu will resolve that too393396


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bluebee
08-24-2013, 08:12 PM
Just for the record, see these related FSU/FSR threads:
- How to troubleshoot a bad FSU final stage unit (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716322)) and how to build a test jig for your FSR final stage resistor (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=678534)) & how to autopsy or repair solder cracks in your blower motor resistor (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7764643#post7764643)) & how to replace your HVAC blower resistor (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6007231#post6007231)) & what FSU is the right one to buy (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528566))
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=392335&stc=1&d=1376901992

Yazied
08-30-2013, 09:19 AM
For it replaced a couple days ago , tool me about 45 mins


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naftaturbo
10-30-2013, 02:40 PM
Wanted to add my gratitude for a fine posting. Just changed the FSU on my wife's 2001 325i and thanks to the pictorial posting it was an easy job.

For the question about holding the torx screw on the driver to reach the upper mounting point, I suggest magnetizing the screwdriver. I used a torx bit from a kit which requires a 1/4" socket to mount the bit in. My electric screwdriver accessory kit includes a couple of magnetized extensions so I used those. The magnets are strong enough that it keeps the screw on the torx bit.

If you have drive up ramps, use those and drive up the front wheels. That lifts the car enough so that less of a contortion is required working under the dash. And knee protectors add to making it easy.

But the posting was the key tool in making this job easy.
Thanks again!

Horch325
11-09-2013, 01:45 PM
Thank you Starless!!

$40 part which would take +$200 for stealer/labor!

You inspired me, and with a Torx 20 in hand I was able to remove using your incredible pictures and discriptions.

Thank you! (Sorry about your Birds vs. Red Sox)

J

[spurt]
02-22-2014, 10:34 PM
Thanks for the great DIY. My install went smooth and took about 30 minutes.


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Robertooberto
04-29-2014, 05:51 PM
Thanks for this. I asked yesterday for some info or pictures on doing this and I'm glad I could find this thread

Starless
04-30-2014, 07:36 PM
You are welcome guys, 4 years later the new FSU does not miss a beat.

ETHERSEEKER
06-07-2014, 11:04 PM
Original FSU went 115 K then went out .... replaced with updated model ..... now this just went out with less than 5,000 K ..... tic nology is grand ...... how about a bypass, no auto function ..... just manual/select control without the FSU ..... ??? Is this possible .... calling all Neanderthals .....