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View Full Version : Wiper Fluid Leak?


wdaveweaver
02-09-2011, 09:19 AM
Guys,

I have an 04 330I with the cold weather pkg and the headlight washers. I think I have a leak in the pass side washer as I have spotted a small puddle of wiper fluid (greenish) and not coolant in the garage this AM when I left. I know lots of guys don't care for them, but what is the best way to access the back of the washers to check the hoses and connections. I did replace my secondary wiper motor last year and they do work, just looks like a bit of a leak. Let me know as I'd like to get this fixed.

stickbuilder
02-09-2011, 10:23 AM
First place I'd look is the pump grommet in the tank. They are notorious for leaking.

kunal_D
02-09-2011, 11:46 AM
First place I'd look is the pump grommet in the tank. They are notorious for leaking.

+1 , This is usually where it leaks from. If it's not that, then it could be the associated hoses or even the nozzles( one on each side). I have never had to access the nozzles but at the very least the headlights look like they will have to come off. In case you did not know, the headlight washer pump is the one in the front of the tank closer to the headlights.

wdaveweaver
02-09-2011, 01:08 PM
+1 , This is usually where it leaks from. If it's not that, then it could be the associated hoses or even the nozzles( one on each side). I have never had to access the nozzles but at the very least the headlights look like they will have to come off. In case you did not know, the headlight washer pump is the one in the front of the tank closer to the headlights.

Yup, replaced that pump last year, so I know where it is. I've ordered the gromets from the dealer and will pick them up later this week. Anyone else have experience getting to the nozzles and hoses for the headlight washers?

jtb.baker
02-10-2011, 08:34 AM
I have the same problem on the driver's side. Waiting for warmer weather to fix. You will have to remove the headlights to access the nozzles. I removed them when I did my angel eyes. Real PITA.

kbeamer
02-10-2011, 10:13 AM
ah i'm having the same issues on my 2002 330ci coupe. At first the thought it was the coolant but its only leaking on the pass side. ( greenish blue ) Im sure its the weather 5 degrees here to 40 in two weeks and now back down to 16. :( how much does a new pump grommet run??

kunal_D
02-10-2011, 10:16 AM
ah i'm having the same issues on my 2002 330ci coupe. At first the thought it was the coolant but its only leaking on the pass side. ( greenish blue ) Im sure its the weather 5 degrees here to 40 in two weeks and now back down to 16. :( how much does a new pump grommet run??

Shouldn't be more than a couple dollars. I'm sure the dealer will find a way to inflate that price though :p

kbeamer
02-10-2011, 10:18 AM
I dont take it to the dealer here in pa. I do most of the things myself. Doesnt sound that hard to fix. :)

wdaveweaver
02-10-2011, 11:15 AM
ah i'm having the same issues on my 2002 330ci coupe. At first the thought it was the coolant but its only leaking on the pass side. ( greenish blue ) Im sure its the weather 5 degrees here to 40 in two weeks and now back down to 16. :( how much does a new pump grommet run??

Dealer is $7 for the main pump gromet and $10 for the headlight pump gromet. Online they are $2-5 a piece, but around $7 for shipping so if you have a dealer in your area it's the same price just to pick one up.

kbeamer
02-10-2011, 11:16 AM
okay. its about a 40 min drive to the dealer but thanks.

mujjuman
02-10-2011, 11:22 AM
I have the same problem!!!!
By accident i put in the rain-x washer fluid that only protects till 32 degrees.... I checked the tank and grommets and visible hoses and they're all fine. It's somewhere in my passenger side headlight washer but I'll wait till warmer weather to fix even tho having a working washer fluid is helpful in winter weather

kunal_D
02-10-2011, 12:57 PM
I dont take it to the dealer here in pa. I do most of the things myself. Doesnt sound that hard to fix. :)

I just changed my Headlight Washer Pump about a week ago. Easiest DIY I have ever done. Took an entire 5 mins from Hood up to Hood down.

jcourcoul
02-10-2011, 03:23 PM
Besides stopping the leak, changing the grommet also gets you a new (and unclogged) fluid strainer so the pump won't have to suck the liquid thru all the accumulated crap of the ages.

stickbuilder
02-10-2011, 03:38 PM
Shouldn't be more than a couple dollars. I'm sure the dealer will find a way to inflate that price though :p

Yeah, BMW of Nashville asked me 38 bucks each for the Secondary Air Pump mounts. The little rubber thingies. Did it with a straight face too.

jcourcoul
02-10-2011, 03:50 PM
Should have asked for a detailed breakdown. Pretty sure about $30 was for the abundant amout of K-Y needed for every dealer visit...

lancelot1959
02-10-2011, 10:42 PM
Probably the washer pump, they go bad...not too expensive and easy to replace.

bluebee
02-11-2011, 01:19 AM
I don't know if this helps, but on the E39 side of the house, we have LOTS of problems with leaks in the windshield wiper system (ask me how I know (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503193&highlight=windshield+wiper)).

Here, if it helps, are some reference threads:
- WINDSHIELD WASHER LEAKS: windshield reservoirs prone to leaking due to an ill-fitting pump o-ring gasket (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=400924)) (2 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1315539)) or to hose disintegration (1 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1567747)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486575)) or to leaks in the main reservoir (1 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584735)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260416)) (3 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180101)) or leaks in the intensive wash system (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=475422)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180101)) or the pump itself goes bad (1 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1054965)) (2 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271140)) & debugging hints (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503193)) & adjusting nozzles after repair (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4995700&postcount=5)) & windshield washer fluid (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=461085)) and intensive cleaning system fluid (1 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5299552&postcount=1))

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257109&stc=1&d=1291426185

ringting
02-13-2011, 11:00 AM
Good day,
These comments are offered to aid wdaveweaver not hijack. I am right in the middle of refurbishing my washer system, 330i 2003 approx 65,000 miles. All units are standard as I have forgotten my metric stuff due to 16 years of sunny weather.

At about 50,000 my grommet went and I used DUCT TAPE (thank you Red Green). The solution worked great.

Technical Details I have learned

Washer Nozzles HT Left Hand (LH) E51 & Right Hand (RH) E52
- activate at 37 degrees F
- Wires to both sprayers are 0.5, Brown (Pin 1) and Green/Yellow (Pin 2)
- Connectors are LH X105 & RH X106, these connect at X219 then travel via a Brown 2.5 wire to Ground X490
- Bentley Manual schematics RH on ELE-119 & LH on ELE-120 [these are titled Splice Connector (X219)]
- Data from electrical connectors BMW 8 385 385, AMP 1-983658-1, 1-985 182-1

Washer Pump M4
- 8 362 154, Made in CZ, 008 017 12V, PA6 GBGF10
- Wires are Black (Pin 1) and Brown 1.0 (Pin 2) which leads to Ground X166
- Connector is X107, BMW 8 364 516, PBT, .8199, 14725
- Bentley Manual schematics ELE-60 and ELE-134

Washer Fluid Level Low Sig S136
- Wires are Brown/Black 0.35 (Pin 1) and Brown/Green 0.35 (Pin 2)
- Connector is X10046 See ELE-273
- Ground is X10012 See ELE-159, ELE-149

If you want more let me know. Good Luck with your work.
Take care,
Ringting

ringting
02-13-2011, 12:24 PM
Last few details

With washer arm pulled in cabin voltage across pump Pin 1 (closest to square end of connector) and Pin 2 should be 12 volts or greater. I measured 12.65 meaning my pump is dead.

Fuses are F49, F52, and F59. ELE-133 covers first two.

Be sure to check S136 where connector area meets sensor (90 degree bend). I found mine cracked, yet still works.

Take care