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View Full Version : Thanks To all You Detailers


Bimmernut68
06-21-2011, 12:44 PM
Your help was fantastic on my first attempt to detail my 335ix.

I started by washing the car with Dawn;
Used Pinnacle Clay;
Washed again to remove clay bar lube;
Applied Zaino AOI, Z2 Pro, Z-Clear Seal, Z8 and Z6.

Wow...Thanks again for all your helpful threads...

Now for the bad news hit by a rock yesterday that took a chip from my roof...Needless to say, I have been reading all your comments on rock chips..


282577

Ilovemycar
06-21-2011, 01:11 PM
It's been argued here before, but I wouldn't use Dawn. I've seen TOGWT mentioned a particular chemical in Dawn that is bad for your paint, but I can't find it right now. He has put up some posts like the below. It's not the end of the world, and many others do and have done it, but it's something I wouldn't. If you want a wax-stripping wash, check out Chemical Guys Citrus for example.

Also, washing after a clay is not needed +99% of the time according to pros, unless the car was extraordinarily dirty.

For rock chip, check out 3M kit or Langka. Even if you get the 3M kit, get the Blob Eliminator from Langka. The BE comes with a card, but when I next use it, I might try some plastic razors I recently acquired because I think they may be thinner/sharper, IIRC.

Be careful what you use on a paint surface; a polyurethane paint (high solid, low solvent clear coats) can absorb moisture; as water molecules are smaller than a cross-linked clear coats molecule. So be aware of the contents in car wash liquids or concentrates, sealant and waxes (i.e. low pH acids, high pH alkaline, Dimethal (DMS) silicones or solvents that contain butyl, heptanes, and xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents.
(See also MSDS, Potential of Hydrogen (pH)

Generally avoid the use of household cleaning products for automotive detailing as they are formulated for an entirely different type of cleaning. Quote "Your car surface and the dirt that gets on it are a lot different from the food soils and dishes that dishwashing liquids clean effectively. We don't recommend them for cleaning your car". Proctor and Gamble (Mfg. of Dawn dishwasing liquid)

Alternative products- DuPont Prepsol II, Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Klasse All-In-One, Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

dboy11
06-21-2011, 01:45 PM
It's been argued here before, but I wouldn't use Dawn. I've seen TOGWT mentioned a particular chemical in Dawn that is bad for your paint, but I can't find it right now. He has put up some posts like the below. It's not the end of the world, and many others do and have done it, but it's something I wouldn't. If you want a wax-stripping wash, check out Chemical Guys Citrus for example.

Also, washing after a clay is not needed +99% of the time according to pros, unless the car was extraordinarily dirty.

For rock chip, check out 3M kit or Langka. Even if you get the 3M kit, get the Blob Eliminator from Langka. The BE comes with a card, but when I next use it, I might try some plastic razors I recently acquired because I think they may be thinner/sharper, IIRC.

Agree leave the dish soap in the kitchen from now on. Secondly re-washing the car wasn't needed on future clay jobs.

Get yourself a good car wash soap there are many on the market.

Congrats on the detail job.

Bimmernut68
06-21-2011, 02:26 PM
I followed the advice that was given by Zaino regarding the Dawn wash.

They also said leave it in the kitchen from now on -- which I plan to do.

On my Porsche 911, I used Adams soap, clayed and did not wash the second time. I simply went to the Z-aoi, etc. The Porsche turned out great. Hence, I agree with both of you that the need for a second wash is not necessary after the clay bar.

BTW, I used RejeX on the rims of both car with excellent results. On the wheel wells, I washed with a brush and used Adams VRT trim Dressing...I am waiting to see how they turn out. I just was curious about how this last step would look on the Bimmer.

I still am undecided about the windows

As usual, your comments have been helpful and will be followed on my next detailing effort.

dboy11
06-21-2011, 03:45 PM
I followed the advice that was given by Zaino regarding the Dawn wash.

They also said leave it in the kitchen from now on -- which I plan to do.

On my Porsche 911, I used Adams soap, clayed and did not wash the second time. I simply went to the Z-aoi, etc. The Porsche turned out great. Hence, I agree with both of you that the need for a second wash is not necessary after the clay bar.

BTW, I used RejeX on the rims of both car with excellent results. On the wheel wells, I washed with a brush and used Adams VRT trim Dressing...I am waiting to see how they turn out. I just was curious about how this last step would look on the Bimmer.

I still am undecided about the windows

As usual, your comments have been helpful and will be followed on my next detailing effort.


Yea I know that Zaino always suggests a dawn wash for the first time application. That said the clay will take off anything that is on the surface so the dish soap isn't needed.

As for windows I like two glass cleaners. Sprayway and Stoners both are good by I like the Sprayway cleaner better, it foams up real nice and cleans better IMO. I found it at Target, Wal-Mart and ACE Hardware

Ilovemycar
06-21-2011, 05:10 PM
BTW, I used RejeX on the rims of both car with excellent results. On the wheel wells, I washed with a brush and used Adams VRT trim Dressing...I am waiting to see how they turn out. I just was curious about how this last step would look on the Bimmer.

I still am undecided about the windows


As with dboy11, I also have both Sprayway and Stoner's, but prefer the former and recently ordered a box full of Sprayway cans. They are both recommended because they do not contain any ammonia which is not good for window tint (Windex has ammonia for example). I like to clay my glass every now and then as well. The key to taking care of glass is pretty much like most of car detailing such as with paint and leather, and that is frequent care. Or at least frequent enough that you don't let grime and tar build up too much in the micro pits of the windshield for example.

For wheel wells, I typically use APC and even then I don't always brush as often as I perhaps should.

I've Rejexed my wheels before, and honestly, it's more work than I care to do as far as the wheels are concerned. What I find to be a much more bang for buck (in terms of effort/time) is Armor All Wheel Protectant. No, you won't find me pushing any other AA product. Well, spray a light coat on, wait a bit enough for drying, then spray another coat on. Make sure wheels are completely dry before any application. That's it, no long curing time, no wiping off and better make damn sure you got every spot, and the best part is that I believe it actually works better than Rejex. I've clayed wheels too recently, but the little ball of clay I used for the wheels I put in its own bag, which I wrote "wheels" on with a Sharpie. I don't want to ever use the same clay on the paint.

There are a lot of threads on the AA, but this one might be the original, and if not it's definitely the longest:
Brake Dust Cured (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452619)

However, there is someone in the 3er forum who does both, Rejex cured, then AA on top. I suppose if you wanted to go real nuts, you could do one coat Rejex, wait 12hrs or whatever they say is enough for full cure, another coat and yet another 12 hrs, then a couple coats of AA. :eeps: