View Full Version : Best carnauba wax for Deep Sea Blue?

06-22-2011, 08:51 PM
I'm looking for a good carnauba wax for Deep Sea Blue.

Dodo Juice (Blue Velvet or purple haze) vs Zymol Carbon?

What do you use? any pics?

06-22-2011, 09:44 PM
When I want carnauba, I use Pinnacle Souveran, but in reality, the majority of all waxes look the same (especially the good ones). It would take a trained eye to distinguish between waxes of varying price ranges and manufacturers. The reason being, polishing accounts for over 90% of the paint's final look. Wax/sealer makes up the rest. Optimum Opti-Seal (http://properautocare.com/1876-Optimum-Opti-Seal-8oz.aspx) sold by www.properautocare.com is a wipe-on, walk-away type of sealant. You spread it and walk away. There's no need to buff off any residues because there isn't any. I'm not sure about durability, but I use a very similar product and the durability for that one is about 5-6 months.

07-02-2011, 11:08 PM
I. Have a DSB E90. I am partial to liquid waxes and Meguiars in particular. I wax in two cycles a year. (spring and end of summer). I use Meg's liquid wax because it has a polish in it and then about a month later apply the Meg's synthetic wax (NXT 2.0). I love this product and may switch to just waxing three times a year with it. It is thinner however and I don't think it has a polish element...

07-25-2011, 10:13 AM
Just put two coats of Griots carnuba on my DSB

07-25-2011, 03:20 PM
Am with Dincic on this one as well. I use 2-3 thin, thin coats of Griots Best of Show...and use the stick. BUT like any really good wax, it needs some sacrifice barriers on it to make last even longer. Their detailer SprayonWax works great...and if car is kept dusted with a clean duster, or gently washed, the carnuba lasts. Have the Souveran, but have not tried it yet. But thinner is better in applications of most--and layering helps.

Good luck with your choice. But when done, try to keep the day's "dusty-dirties" from sinking into the hot wax that has been heated up during the day if its out. Settles into the wax when it cools at night. Gives you that kind of less-than-smooth finish after a few days, even tho you spend hours on the car. :thumbup:

07-30-2011, 05:51 PM
I just picked up my DSB 535ix from the Performance Center this past Monday. We had a good rain a day or so later, and it beaded up nicely. Tomorrow I want to give it its first bath. Should I use just water and a sponge, or what mild soap should I use to get a few dead bugs off the hood? I'm torn after reading several posts which sort of wax I should use, and how soon should I apply the first coat.

I've used NuFinish polish on my previous vehicles, but I want to keep this car looking good. It's my wife's car, but I get to drive it once in a while. HELP! :)

07-30-2011, 07:21 PM
Applying any quality wax or sealant, commonly referred to as "LSP" (Last Step Product), to your car's paint will never ever harm it. So you can put a coat on immediately or wait until you feel comfortable. However, I must say, the sooner the better. One step you may want to take before applying an LSP is, checking for bonded contaminants (stuck to your paint) using the sandwich baggie test. You'd be surprised how many cars, even brand spanking new cars, have bonded contaminants. Immediately after washing your car, place your hand in a sandwich baggie. Gently glide your hand over the paint, checking for any kind of texture. If it does not feel as smooth as glass, you may need to clay the paint before applying your choice of LSP.

If you want to buy over the counter (OTC) waxes or sealants, look for Meguiar's (Megs) products. They really do manufacture quality products. I've heard from a few detailers that Megs NXT 2.0 is like a sealant and is found OTC at your local O'Reilly's, Autozone, etc.

07-30-2011, 08:02 PM
Thanks, I appreciate your input. Megs, Griots, Mothers -- seems like they're all good, just personal preference?

07-30-2011, 08:46 PM
Basically, yes. Over 90% of the car's paint final look is attributed to polishing. Waxes and sealants only make-up less than 10% of the paint's final look. Some of the main traits you may want to look for in a LSP are: ease of application, ease of removal, durability, shine, look, cost and beading properties. One of my personal favorites is Ultima Paint Guard Plus (UPGP) (http://www.ultimafinishcare.com/ult-1004-100.html). Phil at www.detailersdomain.com sells really good quality products.

For the dead bugs stuck to the hood, if a regular wash can't remove them, you may need to use specialized bug removal products. Some products designed to remove dead bugs, like Stoner Tarminator, can stain plastic, so be careful with it and try to minimize overspray.

07-31-2011, 02:27 PM
^What POof540i is saying. I've used NXT 2.0, and I've been reading that it has a more amped up in your face finish, and that it might not last as long as other sealants. I've also used Meg's Ultimate Syn wax, and it seems to sit a bit thinner to me.

It is almost a rule that first time enthusiasts use too much product. You don't need much to spread around.

Make sure to pull the car in before applying, just in case, so that none of the product "flash" dries before you wipe off. With a machine, sealants are often applied with a blue pad, on low speed.

Right now, I just have a carnauba layer on. Before the winter, I'll surely throw a coat of sealant on again.

I have to admit that one of my least favorite things in all of car detailing is trying to clean sealant off the pads.

Don't forget guys that you can do multiple coats (as aforementioned) each separated by a day. For example you could do two coats of polymer sealant for superior durability and UV protection, followed up by a carnauba wax for more beauty, acting as a sacrificial barrier. Depending on your climate and/or laziness factor, maybe just do the multiple-coating once a year before the harsh winter or something.

Oh regarding the Opti-Seal, Optimum describes it as "permanent", and I have read that it lasts until it is mechanically abraded away. I guess it's about as permanent of product we might find today, considering its ease of use and availability to enthusiasts. However I've read almost nothing about the UPGP, but it does seem to well reviewed.

08-01-2011, 06:36 PM
My 550 is Carbon black, deep blue. I used Meg's Gold Class wax and it was OK. I changed to NXt 2.0 and my car looked a little better, but my wife;s red 328 really stood out!

I will try Megs high tech yellow 26 next to see what it does.

08-01-2011, 06:53 PM
I got hooked over at autogeek, they have alot of info for detailing, videos and the people are very helpful.... from my personal feeling, you can wax a turd but its still a turd..... When you work your cars paint you would be surprised how many people dont know how to wash a car without putting switls and scratches...wash, clay bar, wash, dry, compound if needed, polish, glaze, wax.... If you want to get crazy... Or wash, clay, wash, dry, polish, wax check out autogeek for tips, chemicalguys have some really good products, I like the xxx hardcore nuba wax for dark cars and its under 20$

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