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View Full Version : I got hosed now i need to paint my car


sunny 2005 bmw
08-22-2011, 03:03 PM
So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i. I love the car so far I have put about a $1000 in to it for various things. I am also hoping the trany lasts but thatís a different topic.

When I bought my car it had some scratches on the hood roof and trunk the sides are clear as day. The dealer I bought it form was a little dealer not a bow dealer. They had covered the scratches up with wax and didnít look too bad. I washed and clay bared my car and now it looks like crap the clear coat is so scratched up that I took it to 3 different detailing shops and they said I have to repaint.

I am feeling so stupid and mad. :mad::mad::mad:
I live in Hanover Maryland can anyone recommend a paint shop that is decent price.

If anyone is looking at a new car please look at the paint closely not just the engine and mechanics. Learn from my mistake.
:dunno::mad:

sunny 2005 bmw
08-22-2011, 03:05 PM
The roof is the worst part and it is actually turing kind of a off white thats the only way i can explain it. Here is a thought how about vinyl wrap and what color will look good. Please give me some sugestions

dboy11
08-22-2011, 04:58 PM
If who ever waxed the car before you got it, used a filler product. In the short order you could do the same to cover up the scratches.

ProRail
08-22-2011, 08:24 PM
So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i. I love the car so far I have put about a $1000 in to it for various things. I am also hoping the trany lasts but thatís a different topic.

When I bought my car it had some scratches on the hood roof and trunk the sides are clear as day. The dealer I bought it form was a little dealer not a bow dealer. They had covered the scratches up with wax and didnít look too bad. I washed and clay bared my car and now it looks like crap the clear coat is so scratched up that I took it to 3 different detailing shops and they said I have to repaint.

I am feeling so stupid and mad. :mad::mad::mad:
I live in Hanover Maryland can anyone recommend a paint shop that is decent price.

If anyone is looking at a new car please look at the paint closely not just the engine and mechanics. Learn from my mistake.
:dunno::mad:

Why shouldn't the tranny last? Mine has lasted since 1999.

mikenap
08-22-2011, 08:26 PM
Post some pics if you can. Your issues may be fixable by a competent detailer, and then again they may not. At least let us see what you're working with so we can better help you.

BigPat3472
08-22-2011, 08:32 PM
Pics plz, the dealer probably glazed and waxed it.. Ill send you a pm on a site you can check out the guys there should be able to point you in the best direction

Sent from my DROIDX using Bimmer

POof540i
08-22-2011, 10:31 PM
If who ever waxed the car before you got it, used a filler product. In the short order you could do the same to cover up the scratches.

^^^ +1

OP, the swirls were already there. When you clayed it, you exposed the swirls. You can try to re-fill them with glaze or waxes, or you could have them removed by a detailer.

Ilovemycar
08-22-2011, 11:09 PM
So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i.

Try this guy. He is in Lancaster, PA, which I don't think can be too far from you? This here is an extremely oxidized '86 MB black. It looks to be three steps of decontamination, and five polishing steps.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/121395-86-mercedes-turbo-diesel-27-hours-polishing-barry-theal-presidential-details.html

Now, while the above is black, at least in recent years MB is known to have a very tough clear. I'm not sure how their black rates. However, BMW black is not only the softest BMW paint made, according to some, it might be the softest paint, period.

Next time you go visit detailers, ask them to give you some paint thickness readings where the damage is. Jot them down, and also ask which paint meter he's using. If none of the three you visited had a paint meter, you can likely find a more advanced/knowledgable detailer.

I wish you luck.

edit: Hm, I guess he's 88.2 miles away (I see Hanover now), that is a long drive I guess, but maybe worth it? . . . Toughie . . .

dboy11
08-23-2011, 08:38 AM
Try this guy. He is in Lancaster, PA, which I don't think can be too far from you? This here is an extremely oxidized '86 MB black. It looks to be three steps of decontamination, and five polishing steps.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/121395-86-mercedes-turbo-diesel-27-hours-polishing-barry-theal-presidential-details.html

Now, while the above is black, at least in recent years MB is known to have a very tough clear. I'm not sure how their black rates. However, BMW black is not only the softest BMW paint made, according to some, it might be the softest paint, period.

Next time you go visit detailers, ask them to give you some paint thickness readings where the damage is. Jot them down, and also ask which paint meter he's using. If none of the three you visited had a paint meter, you can likely find a more advanced/knowledgable detailer.

I wish you luck.

edit: Hm, I guess he's 88.2 miles away (I see Hanover now), that is a long drive I guess, but maybe worth it? . . . Toughie . . .


The paint on that MB you've linked is not clear coated paint. That's the reason he was able to get off the oxidation with polishing/ compounding

dboy11
08-23-2011, 08:41 AM
So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i. I love the car so far I have put about a $1000 in to it for various things. I am also hoping the trany lasts but thatís a different topic.

When I bought my car it had some scratches on the hood roof and trunk the sides are clear as day. The dealer I bought it form was a little dealer not a bow dealer. They had covered the scratches up with wax and didnít look too bad. I washed and clay bared my car and now it looks like crap the clear coat is so scratched up that I took it to 3 different detailing shops and they said I have to repaint.

I am feeling so stupid and mad. :mad::mad::mad:
I live in Hanover Maryland can anyone recommend a paint shop that is decent price.

If anyone is looking at a new car please look at the paint closely not just the engine and mechanics. Learn from my mistake.
:dunno::mad:

Question?, I should have asked, can you feel any of these scratches with your finger nail?

One thing about using filler products they are effective on minor marry, but on deeper scratches that you can feel with your finger nails they are not, It would be nice to post some pics of the paint and its issues. A good detailer can work wonders on paint, and save you a ton of cash on a repaint

sunny 2005 bmw
08-23-2011, 11:50 AM
Here is the video of scratches. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRii8i6zUc4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
A

I used a filler they get better but gone in2 weeks and the scratches are back. They are not finder nail deep but too many per square inch. Let me know what you guys think after looking at the video.

POof540i
08-23-2011, 12:28 PM
That looks pretty bad, but not impossible to fix. You have three options: buy a dual action polisher and polish the paint yourself, hire a professional detailer, or live with them. It seems like option 3 is not really an option for you, so I'll give you some pro's and con's for the first two choices.

Option A: You do it yourself - A PCXP buffer will cost you about $130. A good polish combo like Meguiar's M105 Compound and M205 fine polish will set you back about $60. At least 2 cutting pads and 2 polishing pads will cost about $30-40. You would need at least 4 good quality microfiber towels for removing the compound and polish, 1 for removing wax or sealer and 2 for drying. That could cost you about $30-40 bones. Good waxes and sealants start at $20 and up. Your minimum costs so far are about $300 dollars.

This option is a lot of work, but you'll have all the tools you'll need to buff it again and again whenever it needs it.


Option B: You pay a professional - Most good professionals cost anywhere between $300 and up. If you're lucky, you may be able to find someone cheaper, but you run the risk of hiring an incompetent detailer and making things worse (like burning the paint with a rotary).

This option, assuming you find a good detailer, will most likely produce the best results, but when, and I do mean when, you put swirls back into your paint, you'll need to take it to the detailer to have the swirls removed again.

dboy11
08-23-2011, 12:30 PM
Based on what I'm seeing I would find a good detailer, that has experience with a rotary buffer and wet sanding ( its going to take that) I've worked on cars much like this and pulled off some amazing finishes. What I'm seeing is surface related marring, that can be cut and leveled. This is a fairly new car, the clear unless its just be abused to death can be restored,

sunny 2005 bmw
08-23-2011, 01:01 PM
That looks pretty bad, but not impossible to fix. You have three options: buy a dual action polisher and polish the paint yourself, hire a professional detailer, or live with them. It seems like option 3 is not really an option for you, so I'll give you some pro's and con's for the first two choices.

Option A: You do it yourself - A PCXP buffer will cost you about $130. A good polish combo like Meguiar's M105 Compound and M205 fine polish will set you back about $60. At least 2 cutting pads and 2 polishing pads will cost about $30-40. You would need at least 4 good quality microfiber towels for removing the compound and polish, 1 for removing wax or sealer and 2 for drying. That could cost you about $30-40 bones. Good waxes and sealants start at $20 and up. Your minimum costs so far are about $300 dollars.

This option is a lot of work, but you'll have all the tools you'll need to buff it again and again whenever it needs it.


Option B: You pay a professional - Most good professionals cost anywhere between $300 and up. If you're lucky, you may be able to find someone cheaper, but you run the risk of hiring an incompetent detailer and making things worse (like burning the paint with a rotary).

This option, assuming you find a good detailer, will most likely produce the best results, but when, and I do mean when, you put swirls back into your paint, you'll need to take it to the detailer to have the swirls removed again.




Thank you a lot of good info . I am not sure what I am going to do right now but what do you guys think about vinyl wrap. That is cheaper than paint and will last 2-4 years. any thoughts

Ilovemycar
08-23-2011, 01:41 PM
The paint on that MB you've linked is not clear coated paint. That's the reason he was able to get off the oxidation with polishing/ compounding

Ah, it's a single stage, eh? (OP forgive my need to pick his brain.) How did you know what it is (whatever it is)? Do you know when clearcoats started to become commonplace? (Hm, google is telling me it varies with brand, and even then there's confusion.) I was particularly curious about my friend's mom's car, it's been a while, but I believe it was a black E36 with what I thought at the time had clearcoat failure that I could not help out with. It isn't a single stage, possibly with oxidation only, could it be?

Can you describe the idea of using a glaze on single stage? Does it really "moisturize" or anything like that?

Thank you a lot of good info . I am not sure what I am going to do right now but what do you guys think about vinyl wrap. That is cheaper than paint and will last 2-4 years. any thoughts

I would have originally voted for POof540i's Option A, until I see that dboy thinks wetsanding is required. POof540i seems to be familiar with the necessary cost breakdown, but FWIW I think you can get good waxes and sealants at below $20 (that's coming from someone with a $70 wax on his car right now). Also, watch out for sales. Amazon had a recent sale on the Griot's RO for $80 recently, and I think it's supposed to be stronger than the PC. There are sales here and elsewhere, look out for promotions/coupons, free shipping, etc.

The vinyl wrap is an idea that never occurred to me. However, if you're going to have the paint corrected on both the hood and trunk, might as well hit the roof too. Yeah, I don't know how much a good wrap costs, but I'd put this money towards a top detailer to make it all brand new again. It'll be worth it, as even the resale value will be increased. Keep us posted . . .

sunny 2005 bmw
08-23-2011, 01:48 PM
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376442&page=10

this threat above is the whole reason I started thinking about vinyl wrap. Check it out

Ilovemycar
08-23-2011, 01:56 PM
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376442&page=10

this threat above is the whole reason I started thinking about vinyl wrap. Check it out

Ohhh. I was thinking like a CF style wrap just for the roof like I've seen Don Nguyen post here at BF.

Personally, I hate the total vinyl wrap, ew. If you like it, go for it I guess. Personally, I'd rather have corrected paint.

sunny 2005 bmw
08-23-2011, 02:06 PM
Ohhh. I was thinking like a CF style wrap just for the roof like I've seen Don Ngyuen post here at BF.

Personally, I hate the total vinyl wrap, ew. If you like it, go for it I guess. Personally, I'd rather have corrected paint.

Actually I was just wrapping the the roof trunk and Hood. I am not sure where to buy it from or what color.

Ilovemycar
08-23-2011, 02:29 PM
Actually I was just wrapping the the roof trunk and Hood. I am not sure where to buy it from or what color.

Sorry I spelled his name incorrectly. Make sure the correct type of vinyl is used, or else when you remove it- it could look like this:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6174256&postcount=155

Some very random search results of his stuff to maybe get you ideas.

http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462770
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489825
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6148758

dboy11
08-23-2011, 02:53 PM
Ah, it's a single stage, eh? (OP forgive my need to pick his brain.) How did you know what it is (whatever it is)? Do you know when clearcoats started to become commonplace? (Hm, google is telling me it varies with brand, and even then there's confusion.) I was particularly curious about my friend's mom's car, it's been a while, but I believe it was a black E36 with what I thought at the time had clearcoat failure that I could not help out with. It isn't a single stage, possibly with oxidation only, could it be?

Can you describe the idea of using a glaze on single stage? Does it really "moisturize" or anything like that?

I'm not sure what the paint was but Imron was very popular as a replacement to lacquer based paints in the 80's Reason I know this I was detailing in the 80's and started driving a BMW in 1979 it was Imron paint.

A glaze would work very well on SS paints, they work even better on clear coats. Glazes are for two reasons, one as a filler of minor marring and they add lots of shine but no protection. Its why they are popular on show cars

sunny 2005 bmw
08-23-2011, 03:02 PM
http://www.carbonfiberfilm.com/ Check this out and still cheaper than repaint or stone wash. I used the turtle wax black box it is filler and wax the marks got better. I am thinking about doing it again and wrapping it. Any thoughts

sunny 2005 bmw
08-24-2011, 12:39 PM
I used turtle wax balck box and these are the results. form a far it looks like some used a dirty rap and made swirls.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3LhXRs-Njs

POof540i
08-24-2011, 01:38 PM
I used turtle wax balck box and these are the results. form a far it looks like some used a dirty rap and made swirls.

That still looks pretty bad. If you want to save money, you can polish your car by hand. Buy some applicators and Megs Ultimate Compound (commonly found over-the-counter) and have at it. You could do one panel a day to minimize fatigue.

sunny 2005 bmw
08-24-2011, 02:37 PM
That still looks pretty bad. If you want to save money, you can polish your car by hand. Buy some applicators and Megs Ultimate Compound (commonly found over-the-counter) and have at it. You could do one panel a day to minimize fatigue.

I tried 3m rubbing compound but didnt do much what else can I use?

dboy11
08-24-2011, 05:30 PM
I used turtle wax balck box and these are the results. form a far it looks like some used a dirty rap and made swirls.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3LhXRs-Njs

A good detailer can remove a lot of that. Your wasting time and money trying to cover that up by hand. Its not going to happen

dboy11
08-24-2011, 05:35 PM
This is a much older JB car that yours, and in much worse condition. I did this with a rotary buffer and compounds. The hood here is not dust or dirt it was oxidized and swirled greatly

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a182/djm0816/B4-1-rs.jpg


After

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a182/djm0816/Cmac-1986BWM528e013-After.jpg


I was lucky that the person I did this for took the before and afters in the same place.

superalex
09-17-2011, 02:42 PM
am a detailer myself but you are too far from me :( it looks bad but take it to some professional detailer that specializes on polishing mostly. its possible to fix it but will not be too cheap. maybe 500- 1000 $. professional detailer WILL take time and WILL do a test spot to see if its possible to remove. (it needs wet sanding) From your words i can tell that those detailers you went too just doesn't know what they're doing or didnt want to mess with it. don't forget that not all pros can perform a wet sand too!

superalex
09-17-2011, 02:43 PM
This is a much older JB car that yours, and in much worse condition. I did this with a rotary buffer and compounds. The hood here is not dust or dirt it was oxidized and swirled greatly

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a182/djm0816/B4-1-rs.jpg


After

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a182/djm0816/Cmac-1986BWM528e013-After.jpg


I was lucky that the person I did this for took the before and afters in the same place.

that loooooksss sick!!!! love it :thumbup: