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HerbP
09-11-2011, 06:06 PM
I am getting the 4 codes below. It seems that they are pointing to a air leak, or a Crank Case Valve problem. Can the valves be checked with a vacuum gauge, or must they be inspected by the eye. If I use a hand vacuum pump from the rubber hose, they will hold 20lbs of vacuum without leaking. I am not sure that this is a valid test, due to the check valve in the top. This has started since I changed my valve cover gaskets a while back, but I don't know if it can be related?

Need some help!


29EF Fuel mixture adaptation, sum check error
29F0 Fuel mixture adaptation 2, sum check error
29E7 Fuel mixture adaptation, idling, per time unit
29E8 Fuel mixture adaptation 2, idling, per time unit

HerbP
09-12-2011, 07:34 AM
Yorgi, Where are you?

HerbP
09-12-2011, 03:24 PM
I think I found my problem with the sealing ring on my Eccentric shaft sensor. I checked both CCV valves, & found them to be good. I plugged up my crank case vent lines to my intake manifold, & noticed that smoke starting come out from the back of the engine. The 1st thing I thought was a secondary air problem. After removing the cowl, I could see it was coming from the damaged seal. I am going to assume that if smoke can come out of the seal, that air can leak in causing my 4 codes. This would make the engine run lean.

Dis will only get you so far in trouble shooting a problem like this. I hope that I found the problem, & the seal will clear the codes. I will give an update when I get the seal. It would be nice for DIS to give more steps in trouble shooting. Dis was written for BMW Techs, not us.

A good document that help me trouble shoot the problem is here!

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Crankcase+Vent+Valve,+Fault+codes++P2187+P2189+BMW +5+Series+2004+-+2010

HerbP
09-15-2011, 06:23 PM
I got around to replacing both Eccentric Valve seals today. My fuel additive numbers have dropped back down to normal. It is hard to believe that a 3/4" diameter seal could cause a lean condition in the motor. It is even harder to believe that monitoring the fuel additive numbers with DIS, can distinguish which side has the problem. DIS is hard to learn how to use, but rewarding in itself when you learn how to use it!

tampamark
09-15-2011, 07:36 PM
Herb, you are definitely in the advanced class! Your mechanic skills are impressive.

Maybe this is a dumb question, but how does the DIS work? I know nothing about that and read a little bit on the net, just curious.

Yorgi
09-15-2011, 09:07 PM
To give you an idea how complicated setting up DIS/GT1 and the related software is, here is the best guide I've seen on the net: Making sense of INPA, EDIABAS, NCSExpert, NCS Dummies, DIS/GT1, EasyDIS, & Progman (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=561237&)

There are some screenshots at the bottom of the post.

HerbP
09-16-2011, 06:35 PM
Herb, you are definitely in the advanced class! Your mechanic skills are impressive.

Maybe this is a dumb question, but how does the DIS work? I know nothing about that and read a little bit on the net, just curious.

DIS is the dealer level of diagnostics that is used for diagnostic & trouble shooting. It can be very hard to install based on your computer, & OS you are running. It does a lot of the the things that INPA does, just based off of a logic tree. There is no operating manual available that I know of, just a lot of options in solving problems. The problem that I have was found in the DME section. The next tree would be based off of fuel problems, the next to specific fuel problems. I had a vacuum leak, giving me 4 codes indicating it was running lean. I started looking at fuel & vacuum related parameters. I located that I had high additive (5.0 both banks) numbers. The multiplicative numbers were great, both around 1.0. High additive numbers indicate a problem at idle.

After a lot of head scratching, I starting plugging off high vacuum related hoses. Once I had eliminated vacuum to the valve covers, I created a positive pressure from the engine. After I did this I noticed smoke coming out of the back side of the motor. At this point I said WTF, & started looking from the source. I was shocked to see that the smoke was coming from the seal around the Eccentric Shaft sensor. I removed the seal to inspect, & found that it was cracked from dry rot & heat. I replaced the seal, & cranked the engine back up. After it ran for around 5 minutes, the leaking smoke was gone. At this point I realized that if smoke can find its way out of the engine, air could find its way in. I inspected the remainder of the engine for more problems, & found the same DS seal leaking also. After all leaks were gone, I ran diagnostics to see if my problem had cleared. My additive readings went from 5, down to 0.14 indicating all vacuum leaks were gone. I really don't understand all of the terminology that DIS uses, but I play with it to see if it makes since. Since diagnostic on DIS want damage anything, it does not hurt to look searching for answers. The more you use it, the more since it makes!

Yorgi, that was a great link that you pointed to for diagnostics explanation. I don't know if my explanation makes a lot of sense, but it worked for me. I was hoping that I would get some help from someone, but I did not get a response. I thought maybe everyone might be mad at me about something, but I see that was not the problem.

Thanks!

tampamark
09-16-2011, 06:53 PM
The problem is that none of us (except maybe Yorgi) have the troubleshooting skill set that you possess. So while you asked the question we were all on the sideline waiting for you to post the end result.

Your explanation makes perfect sense.

HerbP
09-16-2011, 07:11 PM
Thanks, I will take that as a huge compliment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

tampamark
09-16-2011, 09:54 PM
To give you an idea how complicated setting up DIS/GT1 and the related software is, here is the best guide I've seen on the net: Making sense of INPA, EDIABAS, NCSExpert, NCS Dummies, DIS/GT1, EasyDIS, & Progman (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=561237&)

There are some screenshots at the bottom of the post.

Thanks Yorgi! I scanned through it, that was all I needed to see for me to decide I will never do this myself. I would rather take it to an indie and pay them to figure it out.

bigtyme562
09-26-2011, 01:23 PM
HerbP
did you take the engine cover off to get to the Crank Case Valves? There are two (one on each side) that I need to change. I was wonding if this is something I can change in an hour or less.

HerbP
09-26-2011, 05:35 PM
If you remove the engine cover attachments, the CCV valves can be changed in 5 minutes each. Look in the DIY section, I think that someone might have done one. Before removing yours, make sure to look at the new ones. BMW has made a change on the valves, removing the 2 vacuum hoses from the intake inlet. I have not seen the new SIB, but maybe someone else might have. The new valves come with the instructions, just be careful not to break any of the 6 plastic tabs if you plan on reusing yours!


Good Luck!

Here is a pic showing the difference


http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa6/hpippin/BMW%20645Ci/048-1.jpg

bigtyme562
09-27-2011, 10:19 AM
Thank you for the additional information HerbP!!! What tool if any do you recomend to aid in taking off the 6 plastic tabs?

HerbP
09-27-2011, 05:46 PM
Anything with a small point, like a dental pick. Take your time, and keep a little upward pressure as you remove the cap. Your dealer might have the correct part!


Good Luck!

bigtyme562
09-29-2011, 09:08 PM
HerbP you were right about the new CCV change. I went to the stealer to buy two ccv kits and they did not have the vacuum hose attachment on them. The sales person said it would be okay. So what do i do with the hose's... leave them lose? Im going to try to remove the cap and reuse it, unless the stealer needs to order the CCV with the vacuum hose attachment

HerbP
10-01-2011, 04:57 PM
I have seen the SIB for this change. I would think that some vacuum related, would have to open & close the CCV valve. Do not leave the hoses open, because they would suck air into the system. Try & reuse your caps.

Maybe Yorgi has seen or read something?

bigtyme562
10-02-2011, 03:48 PM
I was able to remove the caps without damage and reused them.

HerbP
10-02-2011, 03:51 PM
I was able to remove the caps without damage and reused them.

:thumbup: