Lost speedo, ABS light is on

[mikey4032]

Recently purchased a BMW 6-CD changer on e-bay, and installed in my 99 528it. Maybe a coincidence, but the next time we used the car, the ABS light and ASC lamp came on, the speedo quit working as did the "MPG" vacuum gauge. As we were doing short shopping chores, each time we would restart the car, the same things would be inop, and the same lights lit. We stopped for dinner (about an hour) and when we came out to the car again, everything returned to normal and remained so on the trip home. Twenty minutes or so. The car then sat for a week. Wife drove it yesterday, all normal, then shut the car off at her destination. When she came out and restarted the car, the ABS light and ASC lamp came on, and she had no speedo on her way home. Today I used the car, no speedo, both lites on, and the "MPG" gauge working ok.
Is it possible do you think, the installation of a (brand-new, far as i know) CD changer could have anything at all to do with these problems we are now having? :(

[CWolfey]

Not possible, if by chance the changer was bad or had a short of some sort the fuse for the radio would protect the wiring, but as far as the intermittent problem you are having it is a fluke.

Also you didnt mention if the changer is working normally especially when the problem occurs, that would also tell you it definitely isnt the changer

[mikey4032]

Recently purchased a BMW 6-CD changer on e-bay, and installed in my 99 528it. Maybe a coincidence, but the next time we used the car, the ABS light and ASC lamp came on, the speedo quit working as did the "MPG" vacuum gauge. As we were doing short shopping chores, each time we would restart the car, the same things would be inop, and the same lights lit. We stopped for dinner (about an hour) and when we came out to the car again, everything returned to normal and remained so on the trip home. Twenty minutes or so. The car then sat for a week. Wife drove it yesterday, all normal, then shut the car off at her destination. When she came out and restarted the car, the ABS light and ASC lamp came on, and she had no speedo on her way home. Today I used the car, no speedo, both lites on, and the "MPG" gauge working ok.
Is it possible do you think, the installation of a (brand-new, far as i know) CD changer could have anything at all to do with these problems we are now having? :(
Hi. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Doesn't seem to matter whether or not the changer is in use. The car is a CPO, so maybe I should go get the codes read. The changer works perfectly, BTW.
Thanks for the quick reply!

[SCAMP]

Let me know what the problem was. I have the same problem with a 99 528 iT that started with the ASC and ABS lights. The Speedo, Odometer and "MPG" lights went next. All seem to work on cold mornings for a short period and it seems as if the failure always occurs when I am applying the brakes. A thread on the Bentley Publishers E39 forum has several people with the same problem. The fix looks like it requires a new abs/asc control module.

[Sands]

Swap rear wheel speed sensors. About a 15 minute job if you have a decent floor jack and jack stands. the left rear controls the spedo (I think) and the right rear controls the cruise control.

If you loose cruise after the swap, just replace the speed sensor.

The abs/dsc/asc whatever systems need to have all 4 speed sensors working for the computers to do their thing. If one failes, the system shuts down.

Word of warning, your ABS will not work. So be carefull in panic stops and bad weather until you get it fixed.

[Hex$cyn]

Just reading your issue and it's exactly what I have going on. I check in the BMW TIS software and the only thing shown for the ASC/ABS lights going on and off is a bad ABS Sensor. According to the Artical on the TIS (Dealer software) it was that small "microscopic" cracks develop on the sensor wire causing the part to fail this causing the errors seen. According to the document the build date of effected models was from 9/98 - 3/99. Both E38 & E39. Also the Fault code (for those of us with Code Scanners) that will display are : error # 67 & or 112 . suposidly BMW fixed this issue in productions after the 11th week in 1999 production (this is how they wrote it). If anyone else knows about this issue and would have input I'd appreciate an E-mail and as always I will share what ever info I have that you may need. Thanks Hex

[Avatar1]

Just reading your issue and it's exactly what I have going on. I check in the BMW TIS software and the only thing shown for the ASC/ABS lights going on and off is a bad ABS Sensor. According to the Artical on the TIS (Dealer software) it was that small "microscopic" cracks develop on the sensor wire causing the part to fail this causing the errors seen. According to the document the build date of effected models was from 9/98 - 3/99. Both E38 & E39. Also the Fault code (for those of us with Code Scanners) that will display are : error # 67 & or 112 . suposidly BMW fixed this issue in productions after the 11th week in 1999 production (this is how they wrote it). If anyone else knows about this issue and would have input I'd appreciate an E-mail and as always I will share what ever info I have that you may need. Thanks Hex

Well then Sirs, it seems I am in the right place for this....here is what is happening to me if anyone has a fix please let me know.

I am at the end of the rope with my vehicle:

I have a 2000 523ise (525 engine) manual 5 speed.

The car is equipped with ABS and ASC. A few months back the ASC/ABS light went on, and when I put it on the scanner it said Rear Left Speed Sensor.

So naturally I changed the sensor and shortly after the light came back on...:(

Back on the scanner - Left Rear Speed Sensor Circuit......and the speedo does not work; So:

1. Cleaned the sensor's ring
2. Checked wiring visually
3. Checked that all tires are made by the same manufacturer and have similar thread thickness

So I went into troubleshooting mode....abserving the car carefully and this is what happens:

1. When you start the car in the morning - the light is off - speedo works....upon driving it a little distance (about 15 minutes or so) the light will come on.

2. If you start the car and just leave it running the light will come on without moving the car after a little while 15-30 min or so.

3. If you unplug the wire plug from the ABS pump/modulator - and then put it back on the light will dissapear and the car will run normally for an amount of time (again about 15 min or so) before coming back on.

4. I removed the modulator off the pump (6 screws) and cleaned the inside out with aircraft electronics cleaner(**great stuff) - replaced the modulator on the pump - and the light stayed off for what looked like about 15-30 mins or so.

I dont know what to do much more than that. Can someone PLEASE help me, I need to fix the car ASAP for a driving test - which cant be taken without the speedo working. Any ideeas would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Avatar1]

I have diagnosed the problem.

HERE'S HOW TO SEE IF IT'S THE ABS CONTROLLER UNDER THE HOOD OF THE CAR: (WHICH FOR ME IT IS 0 AND FOR MOST PEOPLE IT WILL BE)

1. GOTO AN OFFICE SUPERSTORE AND BUY A CAN OF COMPRESSED AIR
2. RUN THE CAR UNTIL THE LIGHT COMES ON
3. USE THE SPRAY UPSIDE DOWN AND SPRAY LIQUID OXYGEN ON THE UNIT UNTIL IT IS COLD (COLD COLD NOT EVEN ROOM TEMPERATURE)
4. IF THE LIGHT GOES OUT - ITS THE ABS CONTROLLER

THANKS EVERYONE!

[Lscman]

I have diagnosed the problem.

HERE'S HOW TO SEE IF IT'S THE ABS CONTROLLER UNDER THE HOOD OF THE CAR: (WHICH FOR ME IT IS 0 AND FOR MOST PEOPLE IT WILL BE)

1. GOTO AN OFFICE SUPERSTORE AND BUY A CAN OF COMPRESSED AIR
2. RUN THE CAR UNTIL THE LIGHT COMES ON
3. USE THE SPRAY UPSIDE DOWN AND SPRAY LIQUID OXYGEN ON THE UNIT UNTIL IT IS COLD (COLD COLD NOT EVEN ROOM TEMPERATURE)
4. IF THE LIGHT GOES OUT - ITS THE ABS CONTROLLER

THANKS EVERYONE!

Good to hear cooling of ABS unit can help identify problem! A can of radio shack "chilling spray" for electronics troubleshooting diagnosis will probably work better than a can of air. Just trying to help.

[jukyle]

What articel has this information about the micrsopic cracks in the ABS wireing? I have a problem where my ABS light comes on and stays on and the mechanic says I need a whole new ABS module and I cannot put that kind of money out till I am sure. The maechanic gave me the same code, #112 and I was hoping to see if there was another soloution. Also If there is now help there then does anyone know how to get the light to turn off? heat seems to be no factor, so chilling it doesn't help. If anyone has any help that would be great.

[528ian]

unfortunately there aren't too many other solutions in sight, i just got my 10/98 528i back today because of the same problem, car has abs/asc and transmission light on and goes into safe mode, you lose speedo, and car stays in third gear i think just so you won't burn up your clutch. the stealership offered to replace my hydraulic control unit for just under 2,500 :( so i went to bavarian hyper sports, where i should of been the whole time, and they had my car back in two days. they diagnosed and found that there is a repair kit for the abs module which is about $800 instead of the $1700-1800 it is to completely replace your abs module. my cars asc STILL won't turn off but they think it might be bedded into the computer andwill shut off once it realizes it has been fixed and if not then they will replace wheel speed sensors tomorrow. i hope this helps. BAVARIAN HYPER SPORTS IS ****ING AMAZING, highly professional, friendly, and most of all EFFICIENT, i can't tell you how pissed i am when going to pick up your car only for them to tell you...wellllllll....we're not done. again, bavarian hyper sports is amazing, not only for service but performance, if you are ever in houston i suggest checking them out!

[jukyle]

Did the fix Bavarian Hyper sport did fix the third gear and speedo issue? cause there is a rebuild option on ebay I was considering? could you let me know?

[pgl_gray]

I had the same issue, after several attempts, the dealer replaced the ABS wiring harness and haven't had a problem in 3 months.

HOpe this helps.

[killcrap]

I have diagnosed the problem.

HERE'S HOW TO SEE IF IT'S THE ABS CONTROLLER UNDER THE HOOD OF THE CAR: (WHICH FOR ME IT IS 0 AND FOR MOST PEOPLE IT WILL BE)

1. GOTO AN OFFICE SUPERSTORE AND BUY A CAN OF COMPRESSED AIR
2. RUN THE CAR UNTIL THE LIGHT COMES ON
3. USE THE SPRAY UPSIDE DOWN AND SPRAY LIQUID OXYGEN ON THE UNIT UNTIL IT IS COLD (COLD COLD NOT EVEN ROOM TEMPERATURE)
4. IF THE LIGHT GOES OUT - ITS THE ABS CONTROLLER

THANKS EVERYONE!


this method does work. but its not liquid oxygen. its called r134a refrigerant. they put it in the cans for dust and air.

[killcrap]

unfortunately there aren't too many other solutions in sight, i just got my 10/98 528i back today because of the same problem, car has abs/asc and transmission light on and goes into safe mode, you lose speedo, and car stays in third gear i think just so you won't burn up your clutch. the stealership offered to replace my hydraulic control unit for just under 2,500 :( so i went to bavarian hyper sports, where i should of been the whole time, and they had my car back in two days. they diagnosed and found that there is a repair kit for the abs module which is about $800 instead of the $1700-1800 it is to completely replace your abs module. my cars asc STILL won't turn off but they think it might be bedded into the computer andwill shut off once it realizes it has been fixed and if not then they will replace wheel speed sensors tomorrow. i hope this helps. BAVARIAN HYPER SPORTS IS ****ING AMAZING, highly professional, friendly, and most of all EFFICIENT, i can't tell you how pissed i am when going to pick up your car only for them to tell you...wellllllll....we're not done. again, bavarian hyper sports is amazing, not only for service but performance, if you are ever in houston i suggest checking them out!

you should try to get your money back, cuz its only $300 at www.modulemaster.com to rebuild the EBTCM

[honor24]

I had the same problem,,, for my car a 1999 BMW 528i I had to replace the ASC/ABS control module (just like SoonerE39) As soon as I drove my car into the dealer they told me what it was since they had just done two cars with the same problem a week before. They gave me an estimate of $1300. What I did was go to an imported salvage parts and found the ASC/ABS control module for $400 and with a month warranty. I changed the ASC/ABS control module in less than 20 min, it is an easy thing to do,,, My car to this date is running like a champ!

[MickeyMick]

Hello. How did you change it yourself? Did you have a manuel. I would be interested. I have the same problem with my 1999 528i. Any help would be appreciated.

[ChileBeem]

As far as I can see, you can not change this yourself as it requires dealer re-programming. I am not sure if the repair kit avoids this, I think not.

I guess the only thing that may be user doable is an ebay type rebuilder, but I would get them to guarantee no re-programming needed with their rebuilds before sending.

Let us know what happens.

[honor24]

MickeyMick,
I can only speak for my self but I changed it and I do not have any problems with my car,, I just disconnected the battery, poped the hood open and changed the ABS module. That simple for me,,,

[killcrap]

the ABS/ASC module is not Vin specific. it does not require reprogramming. but it does require coding

[Vette528i]

Hi killcrap, I have a 97 528i with the same problems, no speedometer, cruise, ABS and ASC lights on, I have replace both rear wheel sensers and swaped the abs/asc control unit that is behind glove box out of a 540i that had no problems I still had no speedo and lights were still on, I put my control unit in the 540i and the speedo worked and the lights didnt come on. I took the car in to local BMW dealer to have it hooked up to BMW diagnostic machine and tech said problem was control unit, he didnt even know there was a unit behind glove box but he insisted it was the unit on abs pump. I tryed to take the module off the pump but on this model it isnt a seperate unit, there is just the cover that covers a printed circuit soldered on the solenoids. Have you ever ran into this on a 97?

[gad_gady]

MickeyMick,
http://www.autopower.se/mekartips/mekartips.asp?dokid=103
Don't ask me what that language is... :)

Killcrap,
the ABS/ASC module is not Vin specific. it does not require reprogramming. but it does require coding

What do you mean coding? Do you need to somehow input some kind of code? How?

My friend's 1999 528i has exactly the same problem. We packed the ECU with a plastic bag and some dry ice. All the warning lights went off except the check engine light. We drove around for about an hour without any problem till the ice melted. We were convinced that the ABS ECU is the culprit and it's related to the temperature. We are going to clean up the wire harness of the ECU to see whether it helps. Next thing is then to get it rebuilt or get a used ECU. When it is fixed, we plan to build a heat shield around it cause it sure was hot around the engine.

[killcrap]

Dont bother getting the wiring harness cleaned. just get the unit rebuilt. BMW vehicles are ZCS/VO coded. meaning the control modules don't know what kind of equipment is installed in the vehicle, like ASC DSC, 5.3, or 5.7 left hand Drive, or Right hand side. the ZCS coding is Stored in the instrument cluster.

[wad06]

This is my first post here, and through the search function, found this very relevant thread.

About a year ago, my asc and abs lights came on. At that point, the dealer said it was a sensor problem and fixed it for ~$100. Both came on again about three days ago. Just got the call from the dealer, who says it is a ASC Control Unit problem and will cost about $1200 to fix.

Well, I found out that I can get my unit rebuilt for about $300 from modulemaster.com or autoecu.com. The installation also seems pretty simple (4 or 8 screws). The "coding" is what worries me.

First and foremost, if I get my part rebuilt, will I need to get anything reprogrammed or coded? If so, approximately how much does that cost at the dealership (the independent I use said he can't do it)?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Wad

[killcrap]

do not worry about coding if getting it back from modulemasters. they wont change it.

[JEREMYZ]

I am having the same problem with the ABS and ASC lights coming on intermitently. It seems like they come on about 50% of the time, or every other time that I start the car. Sometimes they stay on all day, sometimes I will go about 3 days with the lights not coming on. It all started when I went over a dip too fast and ripped the ambient temperature control sensor as well as the plastic sheilding on the front of the passenger side wheel well completely off of the car. All that was left of the exterior temperature sensor was 2 hanging wires. I purchased the new plastic shield and temp sensor and installed them. Temp sensor now works fine, but ASC and ABS lights still come on and I don't know where to start troubleshooting. Maybe the ABS sensor in the same area?

Also, my instrument cluster shows that I have a passenger side rear tail light out, but all bulbs are working. What could be the cause of that?

Thanks,
Jeremy

[mancer619]

ABS lights, same problem here. in a process of removing my ABS module and send it in for a repair. as far as your tail light, I had the same problem and it drove me crazy!! anyways, check the 3rd break light, once i replaced mine the indicatore went away!

[bawb]

Can I run the car without the module installed for the 2 weeks its going to take to ship it out for repairs?
Anyone know any Canadian companies that will rebuild this as well?
I'd hate to have to wait the extra month it generally takes Customs Canada to get a clue.

Thanks.

[atarighi]

..

[dangerous]

Can I run the car without the module installed for the 2 weeks its going to take to ship it out for repairs?
Anyone know any Canadian companies that will rebuild this as well?
I'd hate to have to wait the extra month it generally takes Customs Canada to get a clue.

Thanks.

I drove mine for a day without the module. Sent mine to modulemasters on a thurs, got it back on Wednesday the next week.
Cost $314. plus shipping to them.

[Ghostrider 61]

Thanks for the great advice on this site! I know nothing about auto repair, but we have a 1999 BMW 528Ia that had the ABS light & warning triangle (TCS) light up. I called Gavin at Module Master (www.modulemaster.com) and proceeded to send him the Bosch 5.7 module out of my car. All I did was unscrew the 6 screws and unplug the wiring harness (about a 10 minute job since I had to put WD-40 on the screws to loosen them). Gavin sent me an e-mail w/ pictures on how to get it out. I put plastic over the harness and the exposed area where I pulled the module. Had to leave the car parked for about 8 days, but no big deal. Module Master fixed it quickly and I reinstalled it in 5 minutes...the lights on the cluster went out and I saved some bucks! $300 for the repair + $14.00 for the FEDEX. The dealer wanter $1300 and the German repair shop wanted $1100! So, I actually came out ahead for once. Thanks for the help! (Reprogramming was not an issue.):)

[Petes540i6]

FOr what its worth, I read the first few entries in this thread and thought "abs module." My wife has a Volvo XC70, and these go bad all the time. I sent hers to Modulemaster, and I am very very happy with the results. Saved me hundreds over the Volvo stealer.

[aiwapro]

Hmmm, I may have a bad ABS module, but I haven't tried the chill test to confirm.

My question is: I have a third-party warranty, so should I just go get ripped by the dealer, since the warranty company is paying for it. My local BMW dealership doesn't accept third-party warranties though, so I'll have to pull ~$1300 from somewhere, and front it to them, until I get the refund from the warranty company?

What do you all recommend? Also, do your local BMW dealerships accept third-party warranty?

[520i]

I had the same problem last mont but i got a new ABS module and everything is fine now. By the way don't quote me on this but i heard if you get the old one fixed there is a chance of it messing up again.

[aiwapro]

Ok, so I have the ABS & ASC lights on, and I think it's the ABS module. I took it to an Independant Shop, because they accept my 3rd party warranty, and my local BMW Dealership doesn't (does yours?). The mechanic said 3 sensors (or maybe 3 codes) showed up bad when he checked (scanned fault codes, I guess). I told him from the beginning that I thought the ABS module was the problem, as I had done research, and other people with this same model year car, have had the same issue. He wants to replace the wheel sensors, but I want to replace the module, or actually, I want to have it rebuilt by Modulemaster.

I need advice. My warranty covers the ABS module, and maybe the sensors, but the mechanic wants to replace the sensors instead. The dealership will take care of whatever the problem is, for sure, but I don't want to front $1300 if it's an ABS Module, because they don't take my warranty directly (they will work with the warranty company, but I have to pay first, and be re-inbursed by the warranty company). Also, I don't know if I want a new one, as it may fail for whatever reason this one, and everybody elses failed. Modulemasters says on their website that they rebuild it to be better than the original, and even last longer than a new one. Lastly, yeah, I would just replace the ABS module myself, but the warranty company said I can't do the repair for them to cover it. Is there a way I can trick the warranty company, and do the repair myself?

What to do, I just don't know where to start. Anyone's help would be appreciated.

[520i]

It's not a sensor so don't go and change sensors on you car and lose more money. Sounds like the abs mod. for sure just get it replaced or rebuilt, as far as tricking the warranty company i don't think u can fix it on your own. Good Luck

[paul snock]

we had no speedo abs light and trans in limp replaced both rear wheel speed sensors . fixed speedo and trans still have abs light we still have problem with right front sensor havent tracked it down yet.

[aiwapro]

It's not a sensor so don't go and change sensors on you car and lose more money. Sounds like the abs mod. for sure just get it replaced or rebuilt, as far as tricking the warranty company i don't think u can fix it on your own. Good Luck

So how do I get the warranty company to pay for it, if the mechanic wants to replace the sensors, which probably isn't the problem.

[Jalli]

Just curious, why does the chill test work...

[aiwapro]

I'm not sure, but I'm thinking this implies that the ABS module failure is related to heat. Maybe cooling it off, allows it to function properly.

[BmW745On19's]

Had the same problem with the RSA, turned out to be a blown fuse. Problem solved. Check them and see if they are alright, if not, call your dealer.

[killcrap]

I'm not sure, but I'm thinking this implies that the ABS module failure is related to heat. Maybe cooling it off, allows it to function properly.

the heat makes the circuit expand, when you cool it off the circuits contract and allow more contact area on the circuit.

[dangerous]

Just curious, why does the chill test work...

The Chill test probably works because there is a Cracked connection on a Circuit Board. I'm sure all ModuleMasters does, is solder the crack. When the Unit is cold, parts SHRINK, thus closing the crack and making the connection.

When it heats up. everything expands including the crack and the connection is broken.

that sum it up?

im sure the fix is a simple 2 minute ($5.00 fix) Solder on a joint somewhere, knowing where to solder is where Modulemasters makes the other $295.

:)

[Paw5018]

OK, maybe I'm the exception to the rules.

My ABS light went on and I lost speedo and odo. So, I sent the module to modulemaster.
I put it back in this morning but the ABS light is still on. :(

So, what are the other things to check. OBD code is P0500 (Speed sensor malfunction) - Anyone know what that really means?

[stewart.thompso]

I'm in UK driving a 2001 E39 520 which went without fault for 5 years. Then like others here after 15 minutes or so of driving my ABS and ASC lights came on. Nobody seems to mention that I also lost my economy guage, speedo, odometer, wipers behaved as if the car was stationary (Fast becomes slow, slow becomes intermittent etc) the parking sensor did not turn itself off at a preset speed and the car stopped locking itself at a preset speed and finally, and strangely, the damping on the fuel guage stopped meaning that my fuel level went up or down when I cornered. Clearly the problem was speed related and my local non BMW garage identified a dodgy nearside (drivers side in USA) rear wheel speed sensor was faulty so I swapped the two rear sensors. No change. So I put it in to my dealership telling them it wasn't a wheel sensor. Foolishly they didn't listen and changed the sensor then had to take them off again. Then they quoted about £900 (about $1,700) for a new ABS ECU, including coding.

I turned to eBay and found out that new Bosch units are available for £280 so I bought one. I was told it will need coding but changing it (10 minutes, 6 T20 screws, and new screws came with the unit) has fixed almost everything. The only issue I still have is that the ASC light remains on. I live in remote Wales and we have no approved Bosch Centre. I am hoping that coding the unit will solve this next time I visit London. One fact that my research revealed is that this is an unreliable component and BMW are aware. I hope the current generation 5 series are more reliable. If anybody knows if coding will fix my final ASC problem by coding I'd love to know. Stewart T

[Paw5018]

I had the same issue, except my abs light was still on after replacement. They replaced my module with a bad module. So, I'm on module number three now. I haven't installed it yet. I will let you know how it goes.
Phil

[ChopperDoctor]

Paw5018, it means one of your speed sensors is either toast, or the electrical connections to it are damaged. The question now is, which one?

[ChopperDoctor]

Any time you replace a module with a different one, it has to be recoded to the car. I'd save your time and money and have Module Master rebuild it for you. He upgrades the weak spots so it won't ever happen again, and a 5 year warranty. A new one will have the same under engineered circuits in it, and will likely fail again eventually. Plus it remains coded to your car. Just reinstall it, and the lights should go out right away, or within a few km's of driving after the system runs it's checks.

[ChopperDoctor]

I know first hand. I've sent mine back three times now. He's found a different problem each time, and in new places he's never seen them before. He says it's been the most frustrating and challenging one he's seen yet. I should have it back next week, and he's confident it's fixed for sure this time. The problem is that it's such a complicated unit, he's not able to really trick it into thinking it's in a vehicle. The last time I spoke to him, he was looking into buying a used e39 just so he could have a test platform. Gavin is very knowledgeable, and all of the staff at Module Master are fantastic to deal with. Just be patient and understand that sometimes, it's not just a simple thing to fix. In the end, you'll have a module that is way more reliable than any new one you can buy from BMW, and for 1/4 the price.

[stewart.thompso]

Thanks for your feedback. This site is helpful but can confuse. If I re-fit my original module, on a cold morning everything is OK for 10 minutes or a few miles. It will fail when I hit the brakes. This suggests to me that the car is OK except the module. The new module has fixed everything except ASC. Some feedback says the module does not need coding and others say it does. I was an Army electronics engineer with good diagnostic skills and I am baffled that there are so many symptoms that there is not a simple fault diagnosis flow chart available. How can so little be known for certain about such a common component? Somebody out there knows what is going on and not telling. Come on Mr Bosch. What is the truth about your overpriced, unreliable ABS ECU?

ST

[Paw5018]

Gavin finally helped me out here. I received my rebuilt module and the abs still didn't work. Everything else did. So, they sent me another one. Same issue. They sent me one more module and it works great. So, I guess there is something in there that either doesn't work with my car or I've just had bad luck. Either way, it's working now. Thanks to modulemaster.com
Phil

[aiwapro]

My ABS Module was also rebuilt by www.modulemaster.com , and once I received it back and installed it, the ABS & ASC lights that were lit, went off, with the engine icon light to go off a few miles later, as it became lit as well, once I removed the module from the vehicle.

I am very happy with the service provided my www.modulemaster.com . The turnaround time was good in my view as well. I sent the module USPS Priority on a Saturday, and received it back that upcoming Friday. I will continue to be happy, as long as the module continues to work correctly.

[aiwapro]

Duplicate Post.

[stev1]

MickeyMick,
http://www.autopower.se/mekartips/mekartips.asp?dokid=103
Don't ask me what that language is... :)

Killcrap,
the ABS/ASC module is not Vin specific. it does not require reprogramming. but it does require coding

What do you mean coding? Do you need to somehow input some kind of code? How?

My friend's 1999 528i has exactly the same problem. We packed the ECU with a plastic bag and some dry ice. All the warning lights went off except the check engine light. We drove around for about an hour without any problem till the ice melted. We were convinced that the ABS ECU is the culprit and it's related to the temperature. We are going to clean up the wire harness of the ECU to see whether it helps. Next thing is then to get it rebuilt or get a used ECU. When it is fixed, we plan to build a heat shield around it cause it sure was hot around the engine.



gad_gady, the language is Swedish. I can translate if you need.....Steve :)

[jk808]

Just reading your issue and it's exactly what I have going on. I check in the BMW TIS software and the only thing shown for the ASC/ABS lights going on and off is a bad ABS Sensor. According to the Artical on the TIS (Dealer software) it was that small "microscopic" cracks develop on the sensor wire causing the part to fail this causing the errors seen. According to the document the build date of effected models was from 9/98 - 3/99. Both E38 & E39. Also the Fault code (for those of us with Code Scanners) that will display are : error # 67 & or 112 . suposidly BMW fixed this issue in productions after the 11th week in 1999 production (this is how they wrote it). If anyone else knows about this issue and would have input I'd appreciate an E-mail and as always I will share what ever info I have that you may need. Thanks Hex

I've been looking for a abs code scanner. Can you tell me about yours, what's the make and and how much does it cost?

[JME36]

All -
A quick question to clarify. I too suffer from the ABS/ASC light issue and the speedo failure on my E39. I understand that the rebuild of the unit via modulemaster or autecu should fix the abs/asc issue but will it also fix the speedo issue or is it more likely that is a rear wheel sensor issue? Thanks.

[Ågent99]

bump

[Paw5018]

The Unit rebuild fixed my abs asc light and my speedometer. They had issues with mine though and had to do it 3 times. It did save me a lot of money even though it took a month. Thanks modulemaster.