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sirstopher
06-11-2012, 05:28 PM
I just had my oil changed last week. I start the car in the morning and after work and hear a high pitched whine coming from up front, almost like a turbo noise, the car a couple of times ran the starter a while longer than normal, and the car seems to be idling a little higher rpm, 1000-1200. The whine goes away after a minute.

I hope it's something simple, but my guess it's gonna cost me. Do our cars have a oil separator valve?

No codes

samadkins29
06-11-2012, 06:44 PM
Yes, replace the CCV's. I dont know why an oil change would cause that issue. But those should fix it and they are cheap if it doesnt. It could also be your idle belt and tensioners.

sirstopher
06-11-2012, 07:08 PM
Belt was replaced when alternator was fixed.

ONLY happens when car has been sitting cold, when it's warm it runs fine.

samadkins29
06-12-2012, 10:49 AM
Its the tensioners that will whine. I would do the CCV's first.

sirstopher
06-12-2012, 11:00 AM
First off, thanks for the direction, I am planning on changing my plugs this weekend so the CCV replacement is almost a no brainer. I am really considering replacing the hoses at the CCV also due to the newer design, but I will look a little closer to see how they look and the condition of the rubber.

The car only whines at startup, it's effecting how the car starts due to it running the starter a little longer than normal, I get a higher rpm till the car warms up, or the oil pressure seems to level out? Frankly I don't know and I'm kinda talking out my arse.....

I am going to check the dipstick to see of I am getting suction from the motor, I am sue that now locating this will result in more items down the road failing, like the valve seals, valve cover gaskets, or even the head gaskets from what I have read so far. I really take my time in hearing everything that is going on with the motor when I start her up.

Anyone else have any other items I should be looking at or replacing while I am changing the plugs and the ccv's?

sirstopher
06-12-2012, 11:02 AM
Its the tensioners that will whine. I would do the CCV's first.

Could be the tensioners, but wouldn't the sound and vibration remain, when the car is warm everything seems very smooth?

samadkins29
06-12-2012, 11:03 AM
Sorry for the super short answers. Im at work and cant do teh proper research to give you a better answer. But the CCV's dont have any hoses that run to them. The new design simply hides the blow off nipple. Ill try to give you better info tonight. But im in the process of moving and my comp is not hooked up.

sirstopher
06-12-2012, 11:08 AM
No problem, you say ccv's and I research the diagnosis and read the crap out of the forums finding DIY.

Thanks a Ton.

sirstopher
06-12-2012, 11:10 AM
The new design simply hides the blow off nipple.

My wife has the same design..

sirstopher
06-12-2012, 11:27 AM
Ok, a little more info.

I started the car and checked for suction at the dip stick, I do hear suction, and when I pull the dipstick out the car has hesitation in idle.

Thanks

samadkins29
06-12-2012, 11:29 AM
My wife has the same design..

LOL

Anyways.... Turn the car on and unscrew the oil cap, the car will idle rough but if you hear a whistle noise, the CCV's are bad for sure.

king0fspades
06-12-2012, 04:34 PM
My wife has the same design..
and also high pitched whine?:)

sirstopher
06-12-2012, 05:50 PM
Ok, no whine when I removed the fill cap for the oil, really didn't even run rough? I did manage to splatter oil all over the engine.....

sirstopher
06-12-2012, 05:53 PM
and also high pitched whine?:)

Oh yea, I'm very away when I need to service that machine. Reminds me of a v12 Ferrari.

cooptra
06-13-2012, 05:12 PM
I have my 760 in right now for the same thing. Mechanic says its both idler and tensioner pulleys.. fairly cheap fix.

sirstopher
06-13-2012, 05:55 PM
I have my 760 in right now for the same thing. Mechanic says its both idler and tensioner pulleys.. fairly cheap fix.

Did the car also idle when started up cold, then run fine after it was warmed up, dammit I just had the belt and alternator changed and it would have cost me another 30 bucks...


I will get more into this in the upcoming week as I need to change my plugs.

Thanks everyone.

Keif
06-13-2012, 10:01 PM
To help eliminate an item in your earlier list, and get all kinds of technical, full oil pressure should be near immediate when starting the car; there are 3 check valves in each head that keep oil up in the heads when you turn off the car and the pressure drops, and this car has a two-stage oil pump that provides full pressure even near idle. Additionally, this engine uses hydraulic valve actuators, so if no oil pressure, then no valves opening, and no run (or at least run like crap)...so generally, if it's running then you have decent pressure.

sirstopher
06-13-2012, 10:14 PM
To help eliminate an item in your earlier list, and get all kinds of technical, full oil pressure should be near immediate when starting the car; there are 3 check valves in each head that keep oil up in the heads when you turn off the car and the pressure drops, and this car has a two-stage oil pump that provides full pressure even near idle. Additionally, this engine uses hydraulic valve actuators, so if no oil pressure, then no valves opening, and no run (or at least run like crap)...so generally, if it's running then you have decent pressure.

Well, let me go thru this again, I thank you Keif for posting and I also have read a ton of your post and DIY stuff over the last year, thanks.

1. Morning- first start
Key in and press start button, starter is running longer than normal to start motor, crank, crank, crank, crank, start, high rpm-1100 to 1200 and a hum and vibration that reminds me of a turbo.

The car will idle like this for around a minute to a minute 30, then the car idles back down to 600 rpm.

I can run the car, when I get back in it the car will start right up, no problems.

If I work all day, 8 hrs the car will result as discussed above.

Thank you all, it's a small sound and vibration but I don't want this to become a bigger problem.

cooptra
06-14-2012, 07:57 AM
Did the car also idle when started up cold, then run fine after it was warmed up, dammit I just had the belt and alternator changed and it would have cost me another 30 bucks...


I will get more into this in the upcoming week as I need to change my plugs.

Thanks everyone.

I also have a bit of rough idle when it's the first start or been sitting for awhile. Some say is common, my Indy says may need to change a few sensors ? Can't recall which ones

sirstopher
06-14-2012, 08:01 AM
Update: The car started just fine this morning, I am thinking out loud that my car just needed to be burped? I have no idea and am going to watch it for the next couple of days untill my software and cable arrive.

Keif
06-15-2012, 03:23 PM
I finally got time to read all the posts. When you start it cold next time, listen under the passenger side of the front bumper and see if you can isolate the noise to near there. The secondary air pump is just above there (can see from under the car with splash guard removed), and runs for around 90 seconds when the car starts cold. Have you driven through high water or anything lately? Water can get in it -- I think LawyerAdam may have written up something about it, and even if not, he can tell you about it. The purpose of the secondary air system is to inject air into the exhaust path for secondary combustion when cold to help with emissions (and I think to help heat up the catalyst faster). Your problem may indeed be something like a belt tensioner, as Sam mentioned, but if you can isolate it to the front-passenger side, this would probably be your next thing to look at.

sirstopher
06-17-2012, 11:28 PM
Car is still taking a while before it fires, 1100 rpm for 1 minute then everything is normal. I get my inpa cable this week, will I see codes if there is no check engine light on?

I will replace the CCV when I replace the plugs. Starting to scare me!!!!lol

sirstopher
06-17-2012, 11:38 PM
I finally got time to read all the posts. When you start it cold next time, listen under the passenger side of the front bumper and see if you can isolate the noise to near there. The secondary air pump is just above there (can see from under the car with splash guard removed), and runs for around 90 seconds when the car starts cold. Have you driven through high water or anything lately? Water can get in it -- I think LawyerAdam may have written up something about it, and even if not, he can tell you about it. The purpose of the secondary air system is to inject air into the exhaust path for secondary combustion when cold to help with emissions (and I think to help heat up the catalyst faster). Your problem may indeed be something like a belt tensioner, as Sam mentioned, but if you can isolate it to the front-passenger side, this would probably be your next thing to look at.

No, it's more on the drivers side close to the firewall, I can really hear it better when I am sitting in the car, its more of a vibration than anything. The vibration is not really what is bothering me as much as why it's taking the car longer to fire up, my starter runs for quite a long time before it starts.

Where is the fuel pump located? I will look on oemparts.

Thanks again everyone.

Rookie2008
06-17-2012, 11:43 PM
Fuel pump is located underneath rear back seat on passenger side. If you want a quick test to see if the fuel pump is working properly then have someone start the car. While they are trying to start the car hit the fuel tank with a rubber mallet not too hard but hard enough to assist the pump in kicking on. If the car cranks then most likely its the fuel pump if not then more than likely not your problem. Good Luck though.

sirstopher
06-17-2012, 11:47 PM
Fuel pump is located underneath rear back seat on passenger side. If you want a quick test to see if the fuel pump is working properly then have someone start the car. While they are trying to start the car hit the fuel tank with a rubber mallet not too hard but hard enough to assist the pump in kicking on. If the car cranks then most likely its the fuel pump if not then more than likely not your problem. Good Luck though.

Nothing like the rubber hammer DIY, lol. Thanks I was looking at this on the TIS. I don't think that's the problem, but who knows with these cars.