PDA

View Full Version : Air Conditioning "Slow Start"


parodielin
07-02-2012, 09:10 AM
If this has been discussed, my apologies for my bad search skill.

I found my 08 528xi's air conditioning has a "slow start" issue. The first time it happened was a few months ago. When I start the car in the garage, the AC won't be cold for a few minutes. It is longer than usual, meaning my other cars (like 10 years old) will generate cold air a few minutes faster.

I was thinking maybe I didn't turn the air condition on. It's on. It was generating hot air up to a point that I was bothered enough to check. It wasn't like that when it is "normal". Once it is functioning, it will be good.

Where could the problem be? Could this be a sign of anything? I re-charged the battery using a battery tender so I think the battery is fine.

lbcdude
07-02-2012, 01:41 PM
May need to have the AC system charged.

kmacivor
07-11-2012, 12:03 PM
Having the same issue with my 2007 525. It happens if I leave my car sitting for a few days. The A/C will be slow to kick on and only after I start driving. Then it will be fine for the rest of the day. But if I let it sit for a few days it will do the same thing and be slow to turn on again. Do you think the system being low on freon would cause this to happen? Thanks!!

rijc99
07-11-2012, 02:31 PM
Replace the AC final stage. It's a resister.

parodielin
07-11-2012, 04:01 PM
Replace the AC final stage. It's a relay.

How can we diagnose this? Is it easy DIY?

kbeamer
07-11-2012, 04:26 PM
Might want to read my tread. Mine had this issue last year and then again last week. It completely stopped working, a day later it kicked back on and has been working fine. You might need a new fsu which is located in the glove box. My tread has a link that goes to the DIY on how to fix this. I would check your a/c belt and have your a/c checked, I hogan email from me thy are doing full a/c check for 49.95. Just a thought. Good luck

rijc99
07-11-2012, 05:24 PM
Need some clarification. Slow start as in fan speed or fan speed is fast right away but it's not cold?

If fan speed is slow to start check the final stage unit (FSU). If AC is slow to cool but eventually does check refrigerant, compressor, receiver dryer, expansion valve and also if the AC assist fan kicks in.

Also check the AC relay.

parodielin
07-11-2012, 05:44 PM
Need some clarification. Slow start as in fan speed or fan speed is fast right away but it's not cold?

If fan speed is slow to start check the final stage unit (FSU). If AC is slow to cool but eventually does check refrigerant, compressor, receiver dryer, expansion valve and also if the AC assist fan kicks in.

Also check the AC relay.

In my case, the fan is strong right away, but take a few minutes to cool in the morning.

rijc99
07-11-2012, 05:52 PM
First things first. Recover the freon. Do a vacuum test. If vacuum holds for a few minutes. Recharge the freon per spec on the sticker.

The vacuum test will show if you have a leak or not along the line. To see if you have a leak on the compressor you'll have to inspect it. It should be dry.

if you still have problems then check the other components.

Sorry, misread you first post. The Final Stage applies to incorrect fan speeds.

parodielin
07-11-2012, 06:28 PM
First things first. Recover the freon. Do a vacuum test. If vacuum holds for a few minutes. Recharge the freon per spec on the sticker.

The vacuum test will show if you have a leak or not along the line. To see if you have a leak on the compressor you'll have to inspect it. It should be dry.

if you still have problems then check the other components.

Sorry, misread you first post. The Final Stage applies to incorrect fan speeds.

Does that mean I need to "acquire" an AC Vacuum Pump?

rijc99
07-11-2012, 06:38 PM
Does that mean I need to "acquire" an AC Vacuum Pump?

Would be best. Rule out low freon charge first. Then diagnose from there. Some parts store rent them out.

kmacivor
07-12-2012, 08:52 AM
Same thing with mine. The fan is strong with no cooling. If it is cooling the fan does not come on as strong.

Locomotive
07-12-2012, 08:38 PM
Get someone to put the gauges on and check the high and low side before you worry about breaking the system open.
You don't have to break the system or drain it to find that much out. It could easily be a little low on 134.

If you're willing to get a vacuum pump, get some gauges first.

l1tech
07-13-2012, 07:23 AM
.

The vacuum test will show if you have a leak or not along the line. To see if you have a leak on the compressor you'll have to inspect it. It should be dry.

.

Neither one of these is a good test for leakage. I get cars all day long that will hold vacuum for hours but once they start operating and the high pressure ac lines get a couple hundred psi in them they start to leak/ Also just because a compressor is dry doesn't mean it's not leaking, alot of compressors will leak at the front seal which is behind the clutch and and coil adn they will be dry as a bone. Both the vacuum test and also the visual test are only 2 tests that need to be performed to verify a leak free system.

Arctic-Rodz
07-13-2012, 08:10 AM
Mine is in the shop for this issue and the transmission.

Dealership found a front engine cover oil leak and valve cover oil leak. They said the leaking oil is landing on the A/C pulley which might be the cause of the a/c delaying from cooling. They said when they fix the leaks they will double check the a/c.

l1tech
07-13-2012, 08:36 AM
Mine is in the shop for this issue and the transmission.

Dealership found a front engine cover oil leak and valve cover oil leak. They said the leaking oil is landing on the A/C pulley which might be the cause of the a/c delaying from cooling. They said when they fix the leaks they will double check the a/c.

That's a stretch. If there were that much oil on the belt that it was casuing te belt to slip around the ac pulley there would be oil flung all over the engine compartment not to mention a ton of oil on the ground when you park the car.

rijc99
07-13-2012, 01:56 PM
Neither one of these is a good test for leakage. I get cars all day long that will hold vacuum for hours but once they start operating and the high pressure ac lines get a couple hundred psi in them they start to leak/ Also just because a compressor is dry doesn't mean it's not leaking, alot of compressors will leak at the front seal which is behind the clutch and and coil adn they will be dry as a bone. Both the vacuum test and also the visual test are only 2 tests that need to be performed to verify a leak free system.

So if both the vacuum test and also the visual test are only 2 tests that need to be performed to verify a leak free system why wouldn't they be good tests for whether there is a leakage in the system or not?

The OP did not indicate how much R134 he had so my thing is recover the freon, see how much is there. If its low or empty there is probably a leak depending on how much is missing. If there is no freon, do a vacuum test to see if it holds. If it does not, do a visual check to see if you can find signs of a leak. If vacuum holds, charge it, run it and check for a leak. If there are no signs of a leak and the AC still behaves the same, check components or control system.

If the front seal has a leak it will have signs. It may be bone dry but you'll see residue if you inspect carefully. Freon leaking out from that seal will attract dirt.

l1tech
07-13-2012, 06:55 PM
rijc99


Like I said those are only 2 tests out of 4 that need to be performed and while the visual test is really a no brainer a vacuum test is not conclusive as systems that hold vacuum may develop a leak when operating and under a couple hundred psi. Slight leaks, ones that may only lose a couple ounces a year, often leave no telltale signs visually no matter how closely you inspect and almost always will pass a vacuum test. In these instances one would need to either add leak tracer dye to the system and use a blacklight to locate the source of the leak or use an electronic leak detector. Personally I am a big fan of tracer dye, we add it to systems that we know have a leak but are unable to locate the source and have the customer return in a week so that we can reinspect it. I have had some instances where I have actually had to wrap a plastic bag around the compressor and let it sit for a few hours and then check it with an electronic leak detector to pinpoint the leak.

When we get a customer complaint of poor ac performance the first thing that is done is a set of gauges are hooked up and a visual inspection is performed, next the refrigerant is recovered and weighed and then the system is recharged and then evaluated but this is more in depth than 99.9 percect of the DIYers out there as they don't have the equipment to evacuate the system . While the ac system is pretty straight forward proper equipment and technique is a must when it comes to servicing them, thers just no way around it if you want a properly functioning ac system that is going to last.

manvee1
07-15-2012, 10:08 AM
You definitely seem to know lots bout ACs. Might be able to shed light on below.

My AC cuts in and out especially when in traffic.
Highway driving Ė Ac functions perfectly.
Get off highway and into traffic Ė AC Malfunctions and only blows hot air, no matter how high I turn the fan.
Get out of traffic - and everything is back to normal.

Iíve had this problem going on 3yrs and ve taken it to BMW about 3 times. Each time they tell me they canít find anything wrong. Iím sure theyíre not test driving since they feel no need to.
I work from home so I hardly use the car

I have it scheduled to get looked at again this week but I need help in telling them how to diagnose issue. Warranty ran out last yr but I have extended warranty/ maintenance for another 2/3 yrs respectively

2008 528i spt pkg

..thanks in advance

l1tech
07-15-2012, 11:13 AM
If the ac works fine while your driving but gets warm in traffic or while stopped the first thing that should be looked at is the electric cooling fan. When the car is moving the force of air being pushed through the ac condensor is enough to keep the condensor cool so the fan is not needed, but when driving slow or stopped the fan must kick in to draw air through the condensor to cool it, if it can't do this it will give you the exact sypmtons that you are describing. Of course correct refrigerant charge needs to be verified before further diagnosis.

manvee1
07-15-2012, 08:06 PM
Thanks for your insight.
I will point this out to the BMW service person when I take it in this week. hopefully it gets fixed this time.

...2008 528i spt pkg

v8power
07-16-2012, 05:10 PM
Im having similar experience. Start car in the morning, it would not get cold. The compressor is on, the idle is up but the engine fan is off. However, once drive for 5 min , from there on it will be cold as usual. Even if I park the car for an hour. Then everything works fine, even the fan now.

Prior to this , I was experiencing water flying out my cabin ac vent and can hear water slushing inside the vents.Funny because I thought my wife was spitting and talking to me. From there on everything went downhill. Im out of warranty but like to have some diy if possible.

l1tech
07-16-2012, 05:17 PM
V8POWER

If you have water coming out of the vents then chances are that the condensation drain is plugged. Also the fan may not run all the time. The fan being on and also the speed at which it is turning is dependant on the high side pressure in the ac system.

SportUniversaal
07-29-2012, 07:09 PM
I'm having the same problem as OP described.

- After a cold start, AC will blow hot for 2-5 minutes
- It will then kick in quite strongly & blow cold as if new
- Fan speed is normal

I've been in other cars where the freon's been low, and this is very different. It's not that it blows weak at first- it's like the a/c is switched off and then it's switched on.

This makes me think it's a relay or a bad compressor clutch. Since it sounds like quite a few people have a similar problem, I'd love to hear if anybody has found clear resolution for this issue. I'd prefer to DIY rather than take it in for service.

Best,

SU

Sing141
07-31-2012, 09:26 AM
Air conditioner on my 528i takes 8-10 minutes to start cooling particularly after the car has been sitting on a hot 90 + F day. I started complaining to the dealer many miles ago but they claim they can't find the problem. Any suggestions as to what I should ask or tell (LOL!) the dealer when I take it in again this Friday. It does seem to happen most frequently after the car has been sitting for a while on a hot day and I haven't noticed it on cool days or when the car has not been parked for very long on a hot day. Any suggestions are appreciated. My Warranty runs out soon although I've complained about this problem enough that they should still cover the repair if they can find the problem.

Oceans10
07-31-2012, 09:45 AM
Not to hijack this thread, but my issue is that the climate system is blowing hot air into the footwell and on the dash even when it is 95 degrees outside and I have A/C on and blowing cold air out of central vents. It seems to be related to the solar sensors on the windshield. When it gets dark outside, like cloudy, the heat kicks in. Same around dusk, as daylight fades I get the hot air on my feet and via the top dash vents.
So far nobody has any input. BMW useless as well.
I have temporarily solved this by hitting the individual climate control button and I dialed down the upper and lower vents so only the centers push air.
Any insight appreciated.

balkanbase
07-31-2012, 04:29 PM
Might want to read my tread. Mine had this issue last year and then again last week. It completely stopped working, a day later it kicked back on and has been working fine. You might need a new fsu which is located in the glove box. My tread has a link that goes to the DIY on how to fix this. I would check your a/c belt and have your a/c checked, I hogan email from me thy are doing full a/c check for 49.95. Just a thought. Good luck

I have a problem with the FSU. However it seems like FSU and Heating Resistor are used as one and the same. All the instructions for replacement of the FSU are for older models. Can someone tell me where the FSU exaclty is located on the E60? I have actually taken off the glove box, vent and cannot find it ;(

manvee1
09-04-2012, 10:14 PM
Update- So I've taken the car in 4 service 2ce in past 2 mths and each time the problem comes right back the 1st time I drive it after the service. In a couple of days, its going back to BMW Service for the 3rd time; and for the same problem. BMW says they've fixed a few things here and there but AC still cuts out in traffic and it still takes well over 10mins to start blowing cold air on hot days. I don't know how it is that I can find the problem the 1st time I test drive it and BMW cant. this is getting very frustrating.:mad: