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CPAULPERSAUD
07-07-2012, 04:42 AM
My 2006 550i 102,000 miles. Valve Seals leaking, any ideas how much it will cost me to fix or will it be better to put a new engine in? Thanks.

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phlfly
07-07-2012, 05:20 AM
well about 500-700 USD at local shop and 1000+ at dealer.

550iMarine
07-07-2012, 08:06 AM
well about 500-700 USD at local shop and 1000+ at dealer.

What shop or dealer would charge so low? I've heard of people being quoted $5k and up

TRS550
07-07-2012, 08:15 AM
My 2006 550i 102,000 miles. Valve Seals leaking, any ideas how much it will cost me to fix or will it be better to put a new engine in? Thanks.

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Are you talking about the valve cover gaskets or the valve guides themselves?????

:dunno:

phlfly
07-07-2012, 08:24 AM
I thought he is talking about valve cover seals. Well I have never heard valve seals are leaking anymore. It was 20 years ago on cars but now I have never heard it, unless engine was overheated or use wrong type of oil, or some solvents.

CPAULPERSAUD
07-07-2012, 09:41 AM
Valve Guides

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CPAULPERSAUD
07-07-2012, 09:56 AM
After the car idle for a few min a puff of smoke comes out when I take off. BMW diagnostic is the valve Guid seals is the problem. The problem is do I fix it or put another engine in? If I decide to fix, any idea about how much it will cost me. Thanks.

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TRS550
07-07-2012, 09:59 AM
As far as how much it costs to replace the valve guide seals then I don't have a clue. It''s pretty rare these days unless you happen to have bought a Bimmer that only had oil changes every 15K. If that it the case then you'll need to find an Indy mechanic and let him make the assessment. The valve guides can certainly be replaced but if the engine is worn to that point, then I would consider putting a rebuilt engine in place.

Cha-ching $$$$ for sure though. :yikes:

Did the BMW Tech give you an estimate???? They'll know the cost better than any of the rest of us...

dolfan13
07-07-2012, 11:00 AM
Indy did mine for 3500$. Pulled engine replaced upper and lower oil pan gaskets,oil filter housing and alt.gasket.Did valve seals with heads on,this saves money from taking head off engine.There's a major write up but keif member either on this forums or one of the other BMW boards.He did a pic by pic that my Indy actually was thankful I showed him.10k ago running great and no smoke.Do a search the write up has hundreds of pics on the valve seal change.It was a 545 but should be similar.This is a common problem on n62 and now n62tu

CPAULPERSAUD
07-07-2012, 11:21 AM
BMW dealer quote $5,000-$7,000

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bimmerfan52
07-07-2012, 02:55 PM
As far as how much it costs to replace the valve guide seals then I don't have a clue. It''s pretty rare these days unless you happen to have bought a Bimmer that only had oil changes every 15K. If that it the case then you'll need to find an Indy mechanic and let him make the assessment. The valve guides can certainly be replaced but if the engine is worn to that point, then I would consider putting a rebuilt engine in place.

Cha-ching $$$$ for sure though. :yikes:

Did the BMW Tech give you an estimate???? They'll know the cost better than any of the rest of us...

+1

Yep, sooner or later them 15K drain intervals will bite ya.

Blue Blood
07-07-2012, 09:43 PM
BMW dealer quote $5,000-$7,000

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To change valve seals? Can this not be done with the heads on the car? What's so different on a BMW and any other car? Using compressed air in the cylinder will keep the valves closed while the rings and seals are replaced. It's a PITA, but it can be done... At least on other cars...

dolfan13
07-08-2012, 06:54 AM
Yes blue blood read my thread. heads on but not enough room on 5 series at rear of engine compartment.So engine out but still leave heads on.

dolfan13
07-08-2012, 06:56 AM
.

marky boy
07-08-2012, 02:09 PM
Help- i have just bought a 530D and the day after I bought it I have noticed under the bonnet at the right side is black with soot and is around the rubber hose at the outlet of the turbo there is a lot of this soot and looks bad could anyone tell me what it could be thanks

550iMarine
07-09-2012, 04:23 AM
After the car idle for a few min a puff of smoke comes out when I take off. BMW diagnostic is the valve Guid seals is the problem. The problem is do I fix it or put another engine in? If I decide to fix, any idea about how much it will cost me. Thanks.

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Do you have an extended warranty? I would say have the warrant comPany foot the bill

marky boy
07-09-2012, 08:15 AM
No don't have a warranty bought it from a private sale took it to the mechanic the day and it's not the turbo it's a thick rubber hose coming out the right side of the engine cover when we reved the engine we can see smoke coming out so he is going to replace the hose and do a smoke check to see if it's leaking anywhere else keep you's posted on how I get on

phlfly
07-09-2012, 08:30 AM
It maybe your an oil separator is bad, it will give same symptoms as like blue smoke in exhaust pipe, because it's not separated gas from oil so the oil leak to exhaust pipe. It can damage O2 sensor as well

silver550RS
07-10-2012, 06:38 PM
I wonder if your problem looks similar to the video I just uploaded? I've replaced the CCV with no change and am using a quart of oil every 1500 miles or so. I suspect a valve seal replacement is in my near future. :yikes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ke5IPhi7IcM

phlfly
07-10-2012, 07:40 PM
I thought valve covers are oil separator and have two vent valves that vent gases to tube just above throttle control unit. The actual CCV was on previous generation of E46 and e39 I6 engines. It might happen your one of vent valves don't work properly, so it's open all then time so oil going to exhaust.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/e/218.png

silver550RS
07-10-2012, 09:12 PM
The CCV valves are item number 13 in your pic. Its like a spring loaded diaphragm under the plastic BMW engine covers just above the spark us. Mine were both tore and I expected that to fix the problem but as you can see no luck. Most of the reading I've done leads me to believe this is a valve guide or seal related. The oil separator sure sounds like a cheaper option.

dolfan13
07-11-2012, 07:34 AM
Yes siver550 you are correct.The pcv's are the round caps on the valve cover,orange diaphragm when cap removed.If you've replaced these and still loosing a lot of oil ,look for smoke on take off after short idle.If so valve seals.

dolfan13
07-11-2012, 07:48 AM
Also what happens to the mech sleeve as I hear is the wiring insulator grommet breaks down to the "sleeve".The sleeve is a controlling valve pack in the transmission.

550iMarine
07-11-2012, 11:44 AM
I wonder if your problem looks similar to the video I just uploaded? I've replaced the CCV with no change and am using a quart of oil every 1500 miles or so. I suspect a valve seal replacement is in my near future. :yikes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ke5IPhi7IcM

Love the sound. That white smoke is from valve seals? Does the car run crappy because of the smoke? How long can you drive it like that?
How hard is it to replace the seals? I thought someone had a DIY here for it. I figure if you tackle the project, just change all your gaskets at the same time.

What can we do to keep this from happening besides changing oil on a regular?

silver550RS
07-11-2012, 12:12 PM
You know I don't know for sure at this point but I'm pretty sure it is the valve seals. There are no other warnings and the car still runs well but i'm sure there will be an air flow sensor alarm in the exhasut system at some time. I haven't noticed any decrease in power though. I want to say the DIY I read is for a 7. I talked to a BMW mecahnic yesterday and he says that its a real PITA on the 5's. He says that the motor and heads have to be removed so it's predominatley a labor issue. I'm looking at my opptions and will update with any info.

That's what people keep saying. Change the oil more often than the 15k interval.

dolfan13
07-11-2012, 12:43 PM
Heads don't need to come off but engine out.Find another mechanic if he can't do it that way.

550iMarine
07-11-2012, 01:08 PM
Does this mean the engine is bad? I see people asking to fix seals or replace engine. Supposed the two in the back of the engine are not leaking. Would it be feasible to just replace the front 6? I'm just trying to offer an easier alternative

dolfan13
07-11-2012, 01:46 PM
Engine not bad just valve seals.We who have done or had this done hope the problem was in part caused by extended oil changes,not design problem.Since not all n62 n63tu do this maybe not design.

550iMarine
07-11-2012, 02:44 PM
How long can he drive it like this? what other things will go wrong?

dolfan13
07-11-2012, 06:06 PM
Drive like this for however long the cats last and you last puttin oil in it.

550iMarine
07-11-2012, 07:05 PM
Drive like this for however long the cats last and you last puttin oil in it.

The cats? How would it affect the cats? Sounds like he can still drive and save up his funds for an indy. I hope If this happens to me, it happens during my extended warranty and that rt66 covers it.

dolfan13
07-12-2012, 06:58 AM
Your putting a lot of contaminates into your exhaust stream that were not designed to be in that amount.Valve seals that go bad are usually the exhaust side seals.This oil was not burnt in the cylinder but rather by the exhaust manifold heat and cat heat .Thats why it is white and confused for coolant.This I believe is harder on the cats.Oil burnt in combustion is blue.

phlfly
09-11-2012, 03:37 AM
Well I was wrong to say about valve seals in my posts, actually it's common thing on 4.4 L engines, after reading on 7-series forum. One guy did DIY for valve seals. But what more interesting my friend's shop just got car for valve seal on X5 with 4.4 L. They tried oil separator and didn't help. I took couple pictures for 4.4L engine.

dolfan13
09-11-2012, 06:12 AM
Valve seals are under those springs in third pic.Easy job on old pushrod engine.

phlfly
09-11-2012, 06:19 AM
Its exhaust valves but I guess it's leaking at intake in the most cases. The valvetronic needs to be remove but timing needs to be lock, so special tool required for this job, otherwise losing timing will be not fun to get it back right.
It was easy used be you are right I did back those days on my Lada very easy and quick, and it needed to replace each about 30,000 km to 50,000 km. Now days with hydralic lifters it's all like a science.
One of those:

http://img10.auto24.ee/auto24/560/470/18887470.jpg

550iMarine
09-11-2012, 08:55 AM
So how much is your friend charging him to fix it? not the original $500 - $700 quote right? lol. Was there more room in the X5 bay than the 5 series?

phlfly
09-11-2012, 09:03 AM
I think about 24 + hours of labor plus parts.
I don't think it's much more room, only engine is sitting higher then on 5 series.

CPAULPERSAUD
09-11-2012, 02:03 PM
Update on the N62TU V8 engine. I found a European mechanic and after he open the head he found all the valve seals fried plus coolant leaking. Hope ths will fix the smoke problem when he put it back together.

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phlfly
09-12-2012, 04:45 PM
So I talked to about price for this repair my guys is charging around 30 hours of labor, so if you are interested let me know.

phil996
09-28-2012, 09:34 AM
Its the valve guides...AND the valve seals will be a very expensive and temporary fix.
It will start smoking again. anyone found a way to repair the guides ? so far they are :cry:not repairable and no part is available ,my 06 750i with 191k smokes at idle everytime.

phlfly
09-28-2012, 09:45 AM
Its the valve guides...AND the valve seals will be a very expensive and temporary fix.
It will start smoking again. anyone found a way to repair the guides ? so far they are :cry:not repairable and no part is available ,my 06 750i with 191k smokes at idle everytime.

Do they worn inside the channel? So there is no replacement part for guides?
If yes this is another confirmation of the:
1. 15,000 oil change is bad
2. BMW oil is not last 15,000 miles, but more likely 10,000 max only as oil test showed
3. BMW oil is not full synthetic oil
4. Use Mobil1 5W-30
5. Do oil changes every 5,000 to 7000 miles.

dolfan13
09-28-2012, 02:14 PM
Valve seals only... done 25k ago,was using a quart of oil every 1000 miles or less depending on stop and go.Now not a drop.So maybe a gamble but I had a lot of leaks and was easier to pull engine anyway.

phlfly
01-01-2013, 12:01 PM
My friend's shop got another 06 550 with valve seals are bad. The car has 110000 miles and it feels good now because I sold my car.

550iMarine
01-01-2013, 04:45 PM
My friend's shop got another 06 550 with valve seals are bad. The car has 110000 miles and it feels good now because I sold my car.

So what did you end up buying to replace it?

phlfly
01-02-2013, 07:03 AM
So what did you end up buying to replace it?

I got 12' VW Passat TDi, since I don't money for newer BMW. I will for several years, but I will definitely buy only 3-series. I was looking at 335 but price tag 47,000 even lease to much money with a lot money down. It was not make a sense to do so.

550iMarine
01-02-2013, 07:49 AM
Big difference than your 550i? Did you have alot of problems with it? Mine isnt problem free but all pretty minor. So far after 1 year, I have put 26K miles on it. The only issues so far was battery (I put a post on here somewhere), expansion tank, coolant sensor (expansion tank and sensor fixed under Rt 66 warranty). My passenger airbag warning light comes on sometimes but goes out on it's own within moments. I guess it depends on the weight of the passenger and how they move around in the seat. Another issue but I've read is common is if I dont start it in a few days, It will sound a lil rough at initial start for a few seconds then idle fine. I've read there was a flash for this. My biggest issue that I'm trying to decipher now is "Why in the hell is it eating up the inside of my rear tires (275/30/20) so damn fast!!! Brand new tires didnt even make it to 10K miles without the wires (radial) showing!! :mad: :bawling:

Not to mention, I'm without a spare and cant seem to find one :dunno: I've gone to "Pick-a-part junk yards but go figure, no E60s on the lots. A three series spare will fit right? I just want something to pack in my trunk for a "just in case" moment.

Once that issue is resolved hopefully I can continue to Rack up miles!!!

phlfly
01-02-2013, 08:01 AM
O sold it because I couldn't solve a problem with battery discharge, it would not discharge completely but it would rest clocks, some memory things. Well BMW dealer and my guys don't know what is wrong, just said let replace boxes, well I don't go there since too too much money.

550iMarine
01-02-2013, 08:17 AM
O sold it because I couldn't solve a problem with battery discharge, it would not discharge completely but it would rest clocks, some memory things. Well BMW dealer and my guys don't know what is wrong, just said let replace boxes, well I don't go there since too too much money.

Ahh, I have that issue if I let the radio run or leave a door open too long when the car is not running. I thought it was the car until a friend of mine with a Chevy Avalanche told me his truck doesnt like the radio being left on without the truck running as well. Guess it's all these new gadgets that place a high demand on the battery.

Also I noticed that if I dont start the car for a while the clock would have to be reset. If I charge up the battery on a tender for two hours, I no longer have to reset the clock, however over a few days, the clock will not be accurate (a few minutes behind actual time). :dunno: I've read where some members just keep their cars on trickle chargers. I only charge mine if the time resets starts happening again. (I put a new battery in back in April 2012).

Oh well, hope you get to enjoy the VW. Did you have any E60 accessories leftover that you wanna get rid of?

phlfly
01-02-2013, 12:17 PM
Can take voltage measurement in the morning? I had 11.6-11.8, but it should be at least 12.3V

phlfly
03-11-2013, 06:04 AM
I brought back this thread just because a lot V8's are getting over the 100K mark, so watch out before buying or you may consider to sell it before you see a "blue smoke" out of your exhaust pipe.
For last several months, my friend***8217;s shop have done around 4-5 BMW V8 with this problem. A lot of them 4.5L (since most of those models have more miles already), but it's getting 5.5 L on door step. And stay away from 745, all these cars have this problem eventually.

bmwoem1
03-11-2013, 09:49 AM
If anyone located in the Long Island, ny area needs this repair done, send me a PM. I'm a BMW master tech who can do this job for a fraction of the dealer cost.

schpenxel
03-11-2013, 09:50 AM
What would the price be??

(just curious. I am not in the area, but mine is beginning to have a little smoke if I sit for 15+ minutes and idle, then rev it up)

bmwoem1
03-11-2013, 09:57 AM
I don't want to list prices on the thread because it depends on which model it's in and if you have a check engine light on or not (secondary air faults). PM me with your info

phlfly
03-11-2013, 10:04 AM
yea you are right, somehow 4.5 L is little more to do, that valvetrain spring is looked like pain to installed after all seals are done, right? (the big spring in front the engine at intake side).

bmwoem1
03-11-2013, 02:05 PM
If you're talking about the valvetronic intermediate lever springs, then you wouldn't have to remove them, the whole assembly comes out with the intake camshaft.

jim165
03-11-2013, 02:09 PM
If anyone located in the Long Island, ny area needs this repair done, send me a PM. I'm a BMW master tech who can do this job for a fraction of the dealer cost.

So, what's causing this issue? Are the valve guides and seals just crap or does the 15K mile oil change interval cause this? Thanks for your offer to help...:thumbup:

bmwoem1
03-11-2013, 02:22 PM
I think the seals are just no good. The smoke comes from the exhaust valve stem seals because they are running at a much higher temperature when compared to the intake side and fail earlier. The N62 and N62TU have this issue, not other BMW engines (for the most part). If the 15k oil service interval was the cause, then all engines would have this problem.

phlfly
03-11-2013, 03:22 PM
If you're talking about the valvetronic intermediate lever springs, then you wouldn't have to remove them, the whole assembly comes out with the intake camshaft.

yes I guess it's one I don't remember seeing one on 5.0 L engine. I saw everything removed but spring is still there. But these guys don't remove valve block as I heard you do at BMW, and rebuild whole assy.

bmwoem1
03-13-2013, 03:09 PM
Bump, for anyone in New York that needs this repair done at a reasonable cost

micosan
03-14-2013, 06:13 AM
Well I was wrong to say about valve seals in my posts, actually it's common thing on 4.4 L engines, after reading on 7-series forum. One guy did DIY for valve seals. But what more interesting my friend's shop just got car for valve seal on X5 with 4.4 L. They tried oil separator and didn't help. I took couple pictures for 4.4L engine.

Is the area circled burnt oil in the picture? If so, is it the reason the valve seals failed? Any history on the car to indicate the oil may be the reason for seal failure? Keif from the 7 series forum suggested the oil tubes may not be providing enough oil.

HPIA4v2
03-14-2013, 06:41 AM
Is the area circled burnt oil in the picture? If so, is it the reason the valve seals failed? Any history on the car to indicate the oil may be the reason for seal failure? Keif from the 7 series forum suggested the oil tubes may not be providing enough oil.

That is normal amount of sludge baked on to hot engine, I've seen it on all type of engine from 4-banger, I6 and V8.

That's a good hypothesis, could be oil starvation at start up where most of the wear occurs (both on cam lobes, valve guide and valve seals). From what people has been saying since it only happens on this particular BMW engine is because of design flaw.

Vapiano
03-14-2013, 06:59 AM
What would the price be??

(just curious. I am not in the area, but mine is beginning to have a little smoke if I sit for 15+ minutes and idle, then rev it up)

What is your mileage?

bmwoem1
03-14-2013, 09:43 AM
Here's a pic of the last valve stem seal job I did. You can see the difference between the old and new seal. This engine had 69k miles, the valve guides measured within spec, no wear. No more smoking after replacing just the seals.

dolfan13
03-14-2013, 11:17 AM
That's the way mine looked , not really bad to the eye.I didn't measure but I've done valve seals on other cars that looked way worse not near the smoke or oil consumption as this n62.What do you think bmwoem1 ,why the wear and so much oil getting by if not that badly worn?This is such a common problem I think someone would have solved this out of curiosity by now.

bmwoem1
03-14-2013, 02:13 PM
Well, I know this for sure.... The oil leaks past the exhaust valve stem seals, not the intake side. The exhaust valves obviously run a lot hotter, which in turn cooks the exhaust valve stem seals. So, the oil is not leaking into the combustion chamber but directly into the exhaust manifolds. The spark plugs on these cars are clean. This is why the smoke is so bad out of the tail pipe. The oil is being vaporize by the heat of the manifolds, not burned up during the combustion process. The oil consumption is higher with this issue (in comparison to other engines/brands) because during a deceleration, the vacuum in the exhaust (scavenging effect) is higher than the vacuum in the intake. Valvetronic engines engines have close to 0 intake manifold vacuum when fully warmed up.

jim165
03-14-2013, 02:44 PM
Well, I know this for sure.... The oil leaks past the exhaust valve stem seals, not the intake side. The exhaust valves obviously run a lot hotter, which in turn cooks the exhaust valve stem seals. So, the oil is not leaking into the combustion chamber but directly into the exhaust manifolds. The spark plugs on these cars are clean. This is why the smoke is so bad out of the tail pipe. The oil is being vaporize by the heat of the manifolds, not burned up during the combustion process. The oil consumption is higher with this issue (in comparison to other engines/brands) because during a deceleration, the vacuum in the exhaust (scavenging effect) is higher than the vacuum in the intake. Valvetronic engines engines have close to 0 intake manifold vacuum when fully warmed up.

So crap, what you're saying is this seal problem is inevitable regardless of what we do to try to prevent it? And here I am, cutting my oil drain intervals in half in hopes of avoiding this issue. Man, as soon as I get this problem, I'm dumping some thick diesel engine oil in it and trading. Proof positive that BMW only engineers these cars to be leased...:mad:

phlfly
03-14-2013, 04:40 PM
Yes it will happen eventually. I will recommend do alternator bracket and after market cooling transfer pipe (http://www.bimmerzone.com/BMW_Performance_Cooling_Bimmerpipe/PRT-BIM-PIPE-N62.html) (PRT-URO-PIPE-N62).

phlfly
03-15-2013, 07:07 PM
couple pic from another 745, just recently was replaced alternator seal.

schpenxel
03-15-2013, 07:22 PM
For those of you who have done alternator seal--do you put the new seal in dry or put some sort of sealant on it? Seems some good sealant couldn't hurt with how often they fail..

phlfly
03-16-2013, 03:14 AM
I forgot to mention, that my last post, person who owns the car has to replace catalytic because valve seals failed and oil had damaged catalytic converter. Just part itself 1,000 bucks. So if you have oil leak thru the valve seals, don't wait, fix it ASAP, otherwise another 3,000 bucks for repairs, since you have to remove all front engine subframe.

BMWOEM1, please confirm.

dolfan13
03-16-2013, 05:12 AM
I am of the opinion much of these failures are premature because of the 105c operating thermostat.Ive tried modifying a stock tstat to run cooler but not much luck yet.

schpenxel
03-16-2013, 07:42 AM
I am of the opinion much of these failures are premature because of the 105c operating thermostat.Ive tried modifying a stock tstat to run cooler but not much luck yet.

You do realize the thermostat is electronically controlled, right?

(although admittedly I don't know if it's 100% computer controlled or not. There's no telling with BMW)

Vapiano
03-16-2013, 09:53 AM
Yes it will happen eventually. I will recommend do alternator bracket and after market cooling transfer pipe (http://www.bimmerzone.com/BMW_Performance_Cooling_Bimmerpipe/PRT-BIM-PIPE-N62.html) (PRT-URO-PIPE-N62).

The video makes it seem like a doable job for most DIYers.

schpenxel
03-16-2013, 10:29 AM
The video makes it seem like a doable job for most DIYers.

I agree, seems doable, just very time consuming and intimidating looking at first glance for most DIY'ers.

I'd be replacing most of the plastic hose crap hooked to the intake while I was at it--chances of getting all that off and back on without a crack somewhere is slim to none

phlfly
03-16-2013, 10:40 AM
If you have willing to drive to Leesburg VA, google European Service Center (Harrison St), ask for Patric and tell him you are from vadim and you want a discount for this job ( i don't make any money on it, just know him for more then 10 years). But as I said before at least do the cooling trasfer pipe, as intake is out anyway.

JFIVE
03-17-2013, 05:55 AM
New hear and been reading this thread, I have an 05 545 with a 157,000 miles on it and when I purchased it had 136,000
Changed the oil twice between the miles that are on it now
First oil change took it on a 2 hour road trip then sat for an hour with the engine at idle then started seeing smoke then cleared up
Drove back 2 hours and the idrive came on for oil at minimum level
Went back to the service center where the oil was changed they added a quart and it never happened again smoke or low oil
Changed the oil at about 150,000 at 157,000 got the same smoke and low oil
Is this the beginning of valve seal failure or something else?

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phlfly
03-17-2013, 06:37 AM
it might hard to say. Check your oil level daily at dip stick. The most time when is blue smoke on idle that is valve seals are bad.

JFIVE
03-18-2013, 10:42 AM
Thanks will check

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Bitna
05-03-2013, 09:26 PM
Can anyone recommend a BMW master tech with low overhead in west central Florida? I'm in Inverness but I'm willing to travel to have the seals replaced in my '06 550i as well as whatever else should be done while the genie is out of the bottle.

aTdHvAaNnKcSe

Bitna
05-03-2013, 09:38 PM
I wonder if insulating the exhaust manifolds would keep some of the residual heat away from the guide seals thereby extending their life?
Ceramic coating?

dolfan13
05-06-2013, 05:22 AM
You do realize the thermostat is electronically controlled, right?

(although admittedly I don't know if it's 100% computer controlled or not. There's no telling with BMW)

This thread already revived ,yes I do know it electronically controlled.A good write up on M62 mod YEP M62 controlling temp by fooling computer to open tstat.If temp lower already DME just won't open it.Ive been running this way ,95c for 7000 miles.Waiting on my UOA to return,but all seems ok.I simply shimmed under the tstat stem. Vette guys showed me this.