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View Full Version : Replaced my coolant pipe on 760 V12


Blackbox760
09-05-2012, 11:38 PM
Had a water leak and could not see from where so I decided to replace the valley pan water pipe. A lot of info for the V8 guys, not so much info for the V12 guys, my advise is to order the All German Pipe with the tool to install it, you will have to tighten the pipe from the front through the hole of the water pump intake, btw the tool is optional extra.

To get to the valley pan and to have access to the pipe you will have to strip everything out, remove all the injectors, remove the injector harness, everything. I then used a 38mm dremel saw to cut through the old pipe to remove it.

Pipe removed:
http://i.imgur.com/FrJme.jpg


New pipe installed:
http://i.imgur.com/vdKTx.jpg

Old pipe ends:
http://i.imgur.com/49nSw.jpg



In the end I think my water leak was from the two xrings that join the heat exchanger on the radiator but I am happy that the valley pipe was replaced so she should be good for another 160k :)

BTW I replaced all the water pipes, the expansion tank, the altenator o-ring, the xrings, the water pump and thermostat as well as a bunch of other spares as preventative maintenance.

sirstopher
09-06-2012, 01:14 AM
Great job, thanks for sharing. How long did it take you?

Blackbox760
09-06-2012, 03:02 AM
I was in no real hurry to do the job, but I would say if one work as to finish the job it could take about two days. I did a lot of other work as well, you will see for instance that I removed the complete engine harness because I wanted to replace it but when the new one arrived it was not the same so I had to fit everything back.

One advise I can give is something I read here on the board earlier, remove as much as possible of the things in the way to get better access, for example, it take only a few minutes to remove the radiator and the space gained is worth while to get in nicely.

Seven11
09-06-2012, 04:06 PM
damn

props!

new760Liowner
09-06-2012, 06:00 PM
Did you manage to take any pics of your intake valves while you were in there?
Nice job on the pipe..I'm sure you saved a bundle in labor!

Big N Fast
09-06-2012, 08:56 PM
Great job! You are so right...we get the benefit of the v12, but the v8 guys get the benefit of easier to find info! It also sounds like you have 160k miles? If so, glad to hear as it will be very tough for me to give up my 760 and I'm only at 75k. I have a mild oil leak near the alternator...I suspect the left (driver side) valve cover. Any advice on level of difficulty ior time required would be appreciated.
BTW, I just replaced all the hoses, expansion tank, water pump/thermostat and coolant flush. Was noticing the plastic components were cracking and leaking. Assume the heat makes the plastic brittle and since everything was in stock, I assume they are commonly replaced.

Blackbox760
09-07-2012, 01:55 AM
Did you manage to take any pics of your intake valves while you were in there?

I did not take any pictures but I had a good look at them with the boroscope, there is definitely deposit build up on the valves but not too bad


Great job! You are so right...we get the benefit of the v12, but the v8 guys get the benefit of easier to find info! It also sounds like you have 160k miles? If so, glad to hear as it will be very tough for me to give up my 760 and I'm only at 75k. I have a mild oil leak near the alternator...I suspect the left (driver side) valve cover. Any advice on level of difficulty ior time required would be appreciated.
BTW, I just replaced all the hoses, expansion tank, water pump/thermostat and coolant flush. Was noticing the plastic components were cracking and leaking. Assume the heat makes the plastic brittle and since everything was in stock, I assume they are commonly replaced.

The reason why I wanted to change the engine harness was just because of that, all the tubes around the wiring were brittle from heat build up.

I could see as well that the bolts holding down the valve covers were sweating and causing oil drip at the side of the engine. I did not replace them this time for two reasons, I need to get in there again and they are very expensive so I need to do some shopping around first.

To change the valve cover gaskets you will need to remove the engine harness, or at least get it out of the way, but it is not that difficult to remove it completely, I would not remove it from the bottom, just all the top plugs and lay it over the side of the car. Then you will have to remove all the fuel pipes on top of the engine, remove the ignition harness and then you will have nice access to the valve covers, of course I did not state the obvious of the air intake box and stuff.

I would not say it will be difficult, but involved definitely. You will also need to replace all the spark plug tubes while you are in there. So basically you will need two valve cover gaskets, 12 spark plug tubes, 32 (I think) bolts with new rubber gaskets, intake manifold gaskets and then you should be good to go. If you manage to get the correct part number for the bolts/nuts with rubber gaskets please post it here for reference.

Btw it is 160k km's, so plus minus 100k miles on the clock.

CEO
09-07-2012, 05:46 AM
More here


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoCED1jyfL4


http://allgermanauto.com/product/index-german.html

new760Liowner
09-07-2012, 07:58 AM
Something to consider about the plastic cooling components becoming brittle. I've had my E38 750 for about nine years and put about 100K miles on her. In that time, the expansion tank sealing rim near the cap started to leak as well as the auxiliary water pump/solenoid valve housing. I've always had a little coolant leak that I could never pinpoint the source, nothing major, maybe a cap full every other week or so. Turns out the rim on the expansion tank was leaking so I replaced the cap thinking that was the source.

I noticed that the expansion tank cap was rated for 140 kPa (~19psi) versus the 200 kPa (~29psi) that is standard. As soon as I replaced the expansion tank cap with the 200 kPa OEM version, the auxiliary water valve housing sprouted a bigger leak which almost overheated the engine. After I figured out the higher pressure from the 200 kPa cap was accelerating the thermoplastic degradation, I switched back to the 140 cap and ordered a
140 cap for the E66 760. The additional 60 kPa will increase the boiling point of a 50/50 coolant-water mix by about 20F. The additional 20F is still well above the normal operating temperature of the engine. You can mitigate this loss by using a 70/30 coolant-water mix which will recover about 12F out of the 20F lost due to the lower pressure. The 140 kPa cap is an OEM cap I think was used on the E30s.

At any rate, something to consider when dealing with BMW's thermoplastic. You do have a higher range with the 200 kPa cap before the coolant boils (an extra 8F if you use a 70/30 mix) but at the expense of thermoplastic durability with the higher pressure.

Big N Fast
09-08-2012, 08:52 AM
Anks all...great info. My advice to all is still change the coolant and water pump every 50K miles and the hoses at 75k. They are expensive, have significant heat and we love to tinker with them...or we would not be on this forum.
BTW...what temp does your 760 run at? Mine is around 105-107 C according to the dash. To check...
1) Start car, hold in the odometer reset button for about 15 seconds until it gets to the screen that says "identification".
2) press the rest button approx 18 times to get to the line that says "unlocking". Once that is highlighted, press and hold the rest button about 4 seconds until "code" is displayed. Then take the last five digits of your vin number and add them al together. If vin ends in 11111, your code = 5. Now that you have your code, press the reset button as often as necessary to get that number displayed. Once that is displayed, press and hold the rest button approx 4 seconds until the code disappears. Your now unlocked.
3) Once unlocked, you can now press the rest button several times until you get to "sensors". Once there you can press and hold the reset and it will then display several sensor data readings. By scrolling through these you can see water temp, rpm, etc.
4) If you press and hold the reset, it will then go back to the main menu so you can look at other parameters. Another common one I watch is operating voltage which is usually 13700-14200 mv (13.7-14.2 volts).

Anyway, cool useful stuff that I learned from people who are smarter than me on this forum...I wish I could remember who so I could give them some props. I'll close by warning you that you are on your own if you screw something up...this is just info that helps me. We all take a risks when we tinker into unknown territory.

Blackbox760
09-08-2012, 01:09 PM
Have a look here for engine temperature thread (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=579423)

new760Liowner
09-09-2012, 01:30 PM
Just used you dash sensor instructions and got a 102 Celsius operating temperature with the 140 kPa expansion tank cap. Outside temp around 90 Farenheit.

kjruben
09-12-2012, 03:05 PM
Great job Blackbox... wow I'm really impressed. I did my spark plugs and coils about a little less than a year ago and it sure was alot of work. Seeing that you pretty much took the whole top off your engine and performed a job that the dealer usually charges $5k is impressive. Thanks for posting it. I've been crossing my fingers that I don't have to change the water pipe anytime soon, even though I know that the longer I have the car I'm most definately going to have to do it.

wymo
09-13-2012, 11:04 AM
i have a coolant leak on my 745li and its running down from some where in the front of the engine. i have put it on the a lift but still could not see where it coming from. i see everyone talking about the pipe solution but a mechanic told me that it dont look like it coming from there. if anyone have any advice on what it may be please let me know.:confused:

new760Liowner
09-13-2012, 11:21 AM
Where did the mechanic see the white coolant residue (left side of the engine, right side, on the bottom of the hoses)?

wymo
09-13-2012, 11:43 AM
leftside more.

wymo
09-13-2012, 11:48 AM
more on the leftside which is the driverside mis where its running out at

new760Liowner
09-13-2012, 06:33 PM
Check the connections to the radiator and the auxiliary water pump (made of thermoplastic).

Big N Fast
01-18-2014, 03:40 PM
My turn!!! I have been fighting a coolant leak and after changing all the hoses, expansion tank, etc, the local BMW dealership Jake Sweeney agreed to confirm what was leaking for $140. Even with my camera scope I could not see the weep hole leak. At first they thought it was the water pump tube and we decide to replace the water pump, thermostat, tubes,etc. They have a lifetime warranty program now and for about $1100, I was willing to let them do it. ESP since condensate collects on everything in my garage when I use the heater and it's way too cold to work without the heater! Naturally, when they started into the repair it turned out to be the coolant tube. Since BMW does not support the expanding coolant tube, I could not afford to let them proceed and had it towed out of there. Hats off to Jake Sweeney as they were very apologetic, provided a loaner 328, lived p to their word of only charging me $140 for diagnosis, offered me a 15% discount, and they offered to put everything back together so I would not have to have t towed. I really can't criticize any of their efforts!!!
As I was towing it home, my buddy from Monroe Collision in Monroe, OH suggested I contact P3 Autocraft in Centerville, OH. I called them and Alfred quoted me just over $1900 for the repair within minutes. I told the driver to keep going and I dropped it off at P3. The guys there have also been great! They approached the repair just as I would have. They suggested we also replace the belts and spark plugs since there was no additional labor. They also inspected all the problem areas (valve cover gaskets, spark plug tubes, alternator bracket, etc. the VCG's were OK, however, as they went to change the plugs, they found oil from leaking plug tubes. This required the removal of the valve covers, etc.
In the end, I am having all the typical stuff done...coolant tube, VCG's, plugs, belts, and lots of seals. We also get to replace a lot of the brittle wire casing with new hi-temp wrap, I changed the belt idlers and I have all new hoses. The total job is going to hit $3400, but I would have spent nearly $1800 in parts. P3 has been taking pictures, allowing me to check out the progress and has called me every day they have had the car with an update.
I am pretty anal and really enjoy doing my own work, but P3 has been great. The cold weather, my work load and the fact that I have not been able to enjoy the 760 lately all makes P3 and the money I am spending seem worthwhile.
So I had a good experience with the dealer, an Indy and even BMWOEM1 has been great help. He was another option I was planning on considering. Props to him as well, unfortunately, it would require me towing the car about 10 hours. Luckily, I found P3 Autokrafte.


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