View Full Version : DIY - Vacuum Pump Seal Kit & Oil Pressure Switch

09-12-2012, 09:05 PM
I recently noted some oil leaks and figured I'd start with the vacuum pump and oil pressure switch.

For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Oil pressure switch : 12617568480 : 10$
- Vacuum Pump Seal Kit : 11667545384 : 18$
- Hose clamp : 2$
- Vacuum Hose 3,5mmX1,8mmX3m : 10$
- Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 : 10$
- Mobil 1 syntetic grease (or any other) : 10$

- Torque wrench capable of 10 - 20NM
- Torx sockets (male & female)
- 24mm deep hex socket for sensor
- 27mm deep hex socket to crank engine to align vac pump groove

Difficulty Level 1-10: 3

To have good access to the sensor I cleared out the area quite a bit. Its a suggestion.
Also let the engine cool down.
1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove air filter housing from MAF
3) Disconnect MAF sensor cable
4) Loosen clamp between MAF and engine intake, remove small hose and rotate MAF 90 degree up
5) Remove radiator fan (see TIS)
6) Remove vacuum pump (see TIS)
- you really have to remove the hoses from the bracket. Otherwise you can't get it out.
- the small hose attached to my vac pump was really brittle and I had to replace the line.
- get about 3m of hose, then you won't be short.

- check if you have oil in the thick tube connected to the vacuum pump. I used a QTip for that. If you do have oil in the hose, the vacuum pump is defective and could damage your brake booster.

Now is a good time to replace the oil pressure sensor. (See TIS)
a) Release the plug connector
b) Unscrew the sensor
c) Put some (LITTLE) Permatex on the middle of the thread. I'd apply it with a QTip.
d) Torque to 13NM
e) Re-attach connector plug


7) Once the vacuum pump is out, you can take the cover off, clean the surfaces and replace the inner seal. Some joker had overtorqued one of the bolts, which I had to replace with a 6mm round head. Torque housing bolts to 12NM.
8) The outer seal is replaced last.

9) Reinstall the vac pump with the groove and drive aligned vertical. I put "some" grease on the drive to prevent flopping. Make sure the seal is in place and not being pinched anywhere.
10) Before you put the fasteners back in place, you can slightly rotate the vac pump 5-10 degrees. If you hear a light smacking sound, then its aligned.
11) Torque vacuum pump to cylinder head with 10NM.
12) Attach the hoses to the vacuum pump using a new hose clamp.
14) Put everything back together again.

Hope this is a help to someone.
Regards, flash-n

10-09-2012, 09:57 AM
Great write-up. I did this this past weekend. The tip on cranking the engine with a 27mm socket was super helpful.

On my 2006 E65 I didn't need to remove the radiator fan. Once I took out the passenger side filter box and the engine cover housings, MAF air intake, there was plenty of room for me to work. I used a 4 inch deep female torxx socket for the star bolts on the pump. This helped with the lower bolts.

One of the easier jobs I've done.

01-09-2013, 04:29 AM
The seal kit is available at BMPDesign with the following PN 305162.

03-17-2013, 01:57 PM
Great write ups. Thank you! I am need of some help as soon as possible. I will pay for some telephone or email support if necessary, as I need this car running by morning.

I just replaced my vacuum pump and the 2 seals on each of the 2 solenoids . I also read the TIS. The install seemed to go well, including cranking the engine shaft to vertically align drive. When I started the car. It ran very rough. Passenger side of bank was making missing/knocking noise. I re-installed the pump. Everything seemed to install easy and fine. When I start the card it runs very rough- knocking and missing noise.

Please help. Text, call or email. I am on EDT. It is currently 4:56 here.

03-19-2013, 11:51 AM
Luckily we were able to trace the problem with the install of the solenoids.
We should open a separate thread on the resolution, in case s.o. else runs into the same issues.

04-01-2013, 08:49 AM

I'm about to take on this vacumm pump seal problem in the near future. I have an 05 545i. What solenoids are you guys referring to? Do the solenoids have to be removed with installing new gaskets in the vacuum pump? I appreciate this write up!

04-01-2013, 04:42 PM
Hi, the solenoids and the vacuum pump are independent from one another. But you might as well do both jobs when you're in that area anyways.
Intended to do a separate writeup of the solenoids but didn't get around to it. There is some good info in the E65/66 forum.

04-02-2013, 09:12 AM
Thanks for the follow up. I appreciate the feed-back.

05-19-2013, 03:11 PM
Hey guys. I'm working on my friends '07 750Li (E66), and the only thing left to do was the vac. pump. So I went to install it, and it wouldn't go in! I mean, it went in, but not tight. It had about 1/8 of an inch left to go, and it JUST WOULDN'T GO!!! I tried turning the engine over, and nothing. I then tried pulling it in with the bolts, it worked until I started it... and then the case broke.

So I went to a junk yard and got one off a wrecked car (same year and model). After a fight, it went in. But then, about 24 hours later, it started leaking a little, so I pulled it off and cleaned it up.

Then, as I was putting it back on, guess what happened... IT WOULD NOT GO IN THE 1/8" AGAIN!!!

Now I broke that one (after over an hour of a fight that I apparently lost).

WTF am I doing wrong here???


05-19-2013, 03:31 PM
You are aligning the butterfly tab in the slot (step 9)? This would be the first question coming to my mind.

05-19-2013, 04:32 PM
Every time! At least i think that i am. If i wasn't, would that be the result? An 8th of an inch or less out??? I can't tell you how nuts this has made me!!!

(Image of how far it is still out)

05-20-2013, 10:56 AM
Yes that looks to me like the butterfly tab is not aligned.
If you manually rotate the crank bolt slowly, the slot will move along. Stop when its vertical.
Turn the tab on the vac pump until its vertical as well. Now put it on. It will be flush.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

05-21-2013, 08:14 AM
You nailed it! It went right in. Thx!!!

09-12-2013, 09:14 AM
can all of the work performed be done through the hood of the car? Or does it need to be on stands?

09-12-2013, 09:46 AM
can all of the work performed be done through the hood of the car? Or does it need to be on stands?

No. To do the tasks listed the car can be on the ground, & no tires need to come off.

Good luck!!!

10-14-2013, 12:34 AM
Hi guys!

I have a little problem after addressing the oil leakage from the vacuum pump. When the car idles and I hit the break pedal 2-3 times the break pedal becomes very hard and stays that way until I press the gas pedal and rev the engine. After revving the engine the break pedal becomes soft.

I've replaced all seals but a think I noticed is that before I disassembled the front part of the pump, the pump was rotating very hard! After I assembled it it was going without any problems, very easy. I'm not sure if what exactly the (9) means. When I was installing the pump on the car it was vertically and it snugged in perfectly.

I made an image after removing the cover. The photo is attached. The pump was assembled the same way.

P.S. After removing the pump from the car about 50ml of oil leaked on the ground. After installing the pump I didn't fill it with oil manually. The question is should I do it or the engine already filled it?

Thanks for your help!

10-14-2013, 03:50 AM
I've disassembled the pump again. It is filled with oil but I have an other concern. When I removed the pump the first time before removing the front cover the pump was spinning hardly and it was going half a lap at a time. After the sealing change and assembling the pump is spinning freely, which I think might be the problem.

10-15-2013, 12:46 PM
Did you check if any oil went in direction of the brake booster? If that is ok, I'd try another round of assy/disassy of the pump.
Be careful whatever you do. Not having full braking capability is a serious matter.

10-15-2013, 02:22 PM
Thanks for the reply!

I' e sorted things out!

The vacuum pump is as simple as it looks like! The problem in my case was the new inner sealing, it was a bit higher and because of it the pump couldn't make enough vacuum fast when the car is ideling. Now I'm using the old sealing and some thermal silicone.

10-16-2013, 08:42 PM
Might be a dumb question but where is this located? I can't totally tell from the pix... Passener side front of the motor, correct? If its leaking i would hear a vacuum leak, rt? The dealership said I needed to replace whatever that part is I'm speaking of... This sounds like the same thing... Also would/could this also cause a drop in mpg around town?

10-24-2013, 05:31 PM
I just got my 08 550i from California. The dealer had it for about six months. All the records for service are up to date. And it only has 32000 miles on it. But since it has been sitting I decided to go ahead and change the oil.
The dealership told me the I had some leaks from my vacuum pump and my oil pressure sensor. Could the breakdown be attributed to the car setting and the seals breaking down?
I am going to tackle it this weekend. I will let you guys know how it goes!!!!!

PS the dealership wanted $1000 dollars to change the vacuum pump and do the switch!!!!!!!!!

01-08-2015, 03:18 PM
What female torx size holds the pump in place? I think I have the right one but there's no way I can take it off with a screw driver. I need to use a wrench. Kinda confused :/ hope someone can help

A B Able Truck
01-09-2015, 07:03 AM
What female torx size holds the pump in place? I think I have the right one but there's no way I can take it off with a screw driver. I need to use a wrench. Kinda confused :/ hope someone can help

E8 - female torx (mount bolts)
T25 - male torx (housing screws)

I used a slight layer of silicone as a secondary line of defense (longevity)
Just be careful around oil port & allow to dry for an hour or more after install


07-15-2015, 12:11 PM
Is a torque wrench absolutely necessary for these jobs? Have you all used one? I don't want to be a cheapskate but I really don't have any other use for one besides this that I can think of.

A B Able Truck
07-17-2015, 12:51 PM
Is a torque wrench absolutely necessary for these jobs? Have you all used one? I don't want to be a cheapskate but I really don't have any other use for one besides this that I can think of.

I don't use one unless I'm doing heads, rods/main bearings, etc. But after 30+ years, I have a good feel for bolt limits.

07-18-2015, 10:55 AM
Is a torque wrench absolutely necessary for these jobs? Have you all used one? I don't want to be a cheapskate but I really don't have any other use for one besides this that I can think of.

I don't use one for anything under 20ish nm. Anything less than that is basically tight and a quarter turn. You also take the risk of over torquing when trying to hit those low torque values. Makes a lovely snapping sound....:yikes:

03-13-2016, 03:35 AM

Vacuum pump was not installed flush when reassembling, as a result this is what happened when I took the pump off after hearing noises when cranked. What does this piece go to? It got messed up pretty bad but can anyone help me ?

03-14-2016, 06:45 AM
Possibly a part of the flapper that is suppose to fit into the slot on the upper timing case? I see a new pump in your future...

03-14-2016, 10:13 AM
Yes I am soon going to purchase a pump from a member on here. So if I just replace the pump I should be good?

03-16-2016, 06:01 AM
Yes, assuming that it is the flapper. Just look inside the original to see if was destroyed. You HAVE to line the flapper up with the slot in the upper timing cover otherwise you will have a gap and will get the chance to do it all over again.

03-16-2016, 08:03 PM
I believe the flapper is still on the pump, I'm thinking it's something inside the block that was damaged. I pray that it's not but I think it is

03-17-2016, 04:38 AM
Post pictures of both the pump and the access hole into the upper timing case cover so we may get a better idea of what has happened.