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gmcclintock
09-18-2012, 08:38 PM
Hey guys you all should remember me beause I posted a thread for "Dynamic Drive Inative" a few days ago. Well today I got the alternator checked at AutoZone and it was putting the voltage it should be, so I drove the care all day today (more than I usually do) and later this evening as I was going home (on a major road mind you) the car quit on me.

I pulled up to a light as I was pressing the brake the yellow engine light came on the care lost power I tried pressing the gas to revv it up and I can tell there was no power. The car then showed the "transmission fialsafe" error and shut off. I ejected the key put it back in and hit the start button and it started right back up and I drove home like nothing ever happened.

As soon as I got home I place the battery tender on and its currently fully charged but I do this every night so this is nothing new. I think my battery is bad what do you all thing? also where should I get my battery from? AutoZone has one but I'm not sure if I should trust what they have. Thanks in advance for your feedback.

csmeance
09-18-2012, 08:47 PM
where are you hooking up the battery tender to? Also to what voltage is it set? AGM batteries and our electrical systems are designed not to exceed 13.8 Volts. Most cars output 14.4V vs ours which is 13.8. Outputting 14.4 is a sign of other issues

DFEL750I
09-18-2012, 08:51 PM
You need an AGM type 49 battery. For something you change every 5 years, I would just get one from the dealer. Install it yourself and register it with INPA if you have it or get someone to register it for you. If your battery is older I would change it just a preventative maintenance.

If replacing e battery does not fix your problem then it may be your integrated power supply module. That module is about $100 from the dealer and it can be installed in about 20 minutes. It's right under the passenger side cabin filter in a box with a black cover held down by Torx screws. There is another thread on here showing pictures.

gmcclintock
09-19-2012, 05:21 AM
where are you hooking up the battery tender to? Also to what voltage is it set? AGM batteries and our electrical systems are designed not to exceed 13.8 Volts. Most cars output 14.4V vs ours which is 13.8. Outputting 14.4 is a sign of other issues

Thanks for the info. When the guy at AutoZone checked it it was putting out 14v with the car running of course, the tender I have (got from the dealer) doesn't have a voltage select settings its just plug-in hook-up and let it sit. I'm connecting it directly to the battery in the grunk.

You need an AGM type 49 battery. For something you change every 5 years, I would just get one from the dealer. Install it yourself and register it with INPA if you have it or get someone to register it for you. If your battery is older I would change it just a preventative maintenance.

If replacing e battery does not fix your problem then it may be your integrated power supply module. That module is about $100 from the dealer and it can be installed in about 20 minutes. It's right under the passenger side cabin filter in a box with a black cover held down by Torx screws. There is another thread on here showing pictures.

See this is why I think the battery needs to be changed because I've never changed the battery for the term of ownership. I was thinking of disonnecting it completely and checking the voltage to see if its holding 12v. I will get the system checked by the dealer tomorrow and I'm affraid of driving it now lol.

Mr_Burger
09-19-2012, 04:01 PM
You need an AGM type 49 battery. For something you change every 5 years, I would just get one from the dealer. Install it yourself and register it with INPA if you have it or get someone to register it for you. If your battery is older I would change it just a preventative maintenance.

If replacing e battery does not fix your problem then it may be your integrated power supply module. That module is about $100 from the dealer and it can be installed in about 20 minutes. It's right under the passenger side cabin filter in a box with a black cover held down by Torx screws. There is another thread on here showing pictures.

I've seen this mentioned before, but is their a tutorial on how to register it with INPA?

csmeance
09-19-2012, 04:10 PM
Thanks for the info. When the guy at AutoZone checked it it was putting out 14v with the car running of course, the tender I have (got from the dealer) doesn't have a voltage select settings its just plug-in hook-up and let it sit. I'm connecting it directly to the battery in the grunk.



See this is why I think the battery needs to be changed because I've never changed the battery for the term of ownership. I was thinking of disonnecting it completely and checking the voltage to see if its holding 12v. I will get the system checked by the dealer tomorrow and I'm affraid of driving it now lol.


I believe your supposed to hook it up under the hood to the power module to ensure that the car monitors the voltage properly.

gmcclintock
09-19-2012, 04:32 PM
@ csmeanace you're talking about the battery tender right?

csmeance
09-19-2012, 05:03 PM
@ csmeanace you're talking about the battery tender right?

yup, it needs to be hooked up underhood and if hooked up to the battery won't charge it properly!

MrBMW7
09-19-2012, 06:02 PM
I've seen this mentioned before, but is their a tutorial on how to register it with INPA?

See this post: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7062172&postcount=1

gmcclintock
09-19-2012, 08:04 PM
yup, it needs to be hooked up underhood and if hooked up to the battery won't charge it properly!

Ok got it, I just hooked it up correctly and will let it sit all night then drive it tomorrow to see what will happen.

Mr_Burger
09-20-2012, 03:19 AM
See this post: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7062172&postcount=1

Thanks for that :)

1bad540
09-20-2012, 05:52 AM
you have some sort of issue plus the batterys old, I would say its a good time to get a fresh battery in, register it and take it from there.:thumbup:

gmcclintock
09-22-2012, 07:56 AM
I took it in and they recommended I get injector (or something like that) serviced they said it could be carbon build-up so I will get that done. they also said my ARS Module is bad does so I'm trying to get ARS files form someone that uses Dashsoft to load to my ARS module to see if that does anything, or at lease learn how to work with it using Dashsoft.

DFEL750I
09-22-2012, 08:59 AM
I took it in and they recommended I get injector (or something like that) serviced they said it could be carbon build-up so I will get that done. they also said my ARS Module is bad does so I'm trying to get ARS files form someone that uses Dashsoft to load to my ARS module to see if that does anything, or at lease learn how to work with it using Dashsoft.

I don't know why you're not doing what everyone told you first and then go on to other things. Again, replace your battery, register it and go from there. Don't waste your money diagnosing a car with a potentially bad battery. Carbon buildup would not cause your car to shut down randomly and start right back up. Trying to get ARS files for what? Change your battery first before updating your ARS module software if that's what you're trying to do.

gmcclintock
09-22-2012, 04:00 PM
I haven't got the battery yet because I don't have INPA installed yet so I have no way of registering it besides taking it to the dealer of course. I'm working on INPA should be up soon if CCCP could square me away tonight but if not I'll just take it to the dealer and get it replaced. With that said I just got the car back from the dealer and they said my battery is fine, another reason I'm hesitant on replacing it.

Tarek307
09-22-2012, 05:52 PM
Exactly what was happening to me- also got alternator checked & it showed it was ok- but in the end the car did infact need a new alternator + Battery! & if you get both dont go cheap, get the right stuff, BMW

gmcclintock
09-22-2012, 06:06 PM
Ok point taken I will get the battery.......