flash_n
10-21-2012, 07:36 AM
After taking care of the oil leak coming out of the vac pump, now it's time to turn my attention to the valve cover gaskets. This DIY is about the drivers side (so far).
For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 5-8) : 11127513195 : 75$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)
- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders
Difficulty Level 1-10: 8 -- there is danger of breaking other items and you may be left with a non-driveable vehicle. Took me 2 full days to complete.
Before starting to work, remove the lover engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
Also let the engine cool down.
Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.
Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part.
- there is a levelling sensor at the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir. If your not careful, it breaks. Sensor is cheap, but you need the drain the reservoir to replace.
- the fuel liine needs to be disconnected to take the cover out. You'll be surprised how much fuel comes out. Have plugs for both ends ready... before you disconnect.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- the TIS tells you to replace the round rubber seals before re-inserting the valve cover. 3 of the lower ones popped out and were found a day later in the most unaccessable areas. I'd suggest to insert them after the valve cover is back in.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily - even with anti-friction coating. The lower cap nuts then will not engage. I used some self made washers to use the upper cap nuts and increase tension. Also wood and a mallet comes to thought.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque.
1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove ignition coil covering
5) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
6) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
7) Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
8) Replace sealing left cylinder head cover (1112005)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is very difficult, as there is not enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25° to clear it. Took me forever.
- I used permatex ultra blue where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- Glycerin served as my rubber anti-friction coating, but was not helpful enough.
- To torque down the lower side I used self made aluminum washers. Most likely there are off the self washers, that can be used instead.
- Initially I overtorqued the fasteners. My final setting was 10NM.
9) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor
10) I've attached some additional pictures of where I was able to find the dropped parts. All where accounted for. A stick with some duct tape proved to be most helpful.
Hope this is a help.
Regards, flash-n
For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 5-8) : 11127513195 : 75$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)
- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders
Difficulty Level 1-10: 8 -- there is danger of breaking other items and you may be left with a non-driveable vehicle. Took me 2 full days to complete.
Before starting to work, remove the lover engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
Also let the engine cool down.
Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.
Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part.
- there is a levelling sensor at the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir. If your not careful, it breaks. Sensor is cheap, but you need the drain the reservoir to replace.
- the fuel liine needs to be disconnected to take the cover out. You'll be surprised how much fuel comes out. Have plugs for both ends ready... before you disconnect.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- the TIS tells you to replace the round rubber seals before re-inserting the valve cover. 3 of the lower ones popped out and were found a day later in the most unaccessable areas. I'd suggest to insert them after the valve cover is back in.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily - even with anti-friction coating. The lower cap nuts then will not engage. I used some self made washers to use the upper cap nuts and increase tension. Also wood and a mallet comes to thought.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque.
1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove ignition coil covering
5) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
6) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
7) Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
8) Replace sealing left cylinder head cover (1112005)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is very difficult, as there is not enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25° to clear it. Took me forever.
- I used permatex ultra blue where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- Glycerin served as my rubber anti-friction coating, but was not helpful enough.
- To torque down the lower side I used self made aluminum washers. Most likely there are off the self washers, that can be used instead.
- Initially I overtorqued the fasteners. My final setting was 10NM.
9) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor
10) I've attached some additional pictures of where I was able to find the dropped parts. All where accounted for. A stick with some duct tape proved to be most helpful.
Hope this is a help.
Regards, flash-n