View Full Version : Polish Options
11-27-2012, 07:02 AM
Trying to piece together a detailers starter set but I keep getting bogged down with all the polish options out there. I understand the idea is to use the least abrasive polish/pad that achieves the needed result. My car is a year old and has a few hard water spots. Is a product like Menzerna Super Finish (SF 4500) PO85RD too abrasive for something like this? Maybe just vinegar and no polish? :dunno: Please help.
Unfortunately the resolution on my iPad is such that I cannot see the water spots nicely. Are they localized - eg. From a garden sprayer - or more general - I.e. from washing? The PO85 Menz is really a "jeweling" polish -I.e a super final step before sealing and/or waxing. Do you plan to do it by hand or machine? I would first wash whole vehicle and clay a test spot. Then use a 4" LC foam pad with a "Polish Pal" on a 1' x 1' test area and observe the result in preferably sunlight. The foam pads often come in a set of 3 - in varying degrees of cut. Even if your mentioned polish does not do the trick after say 3 trials - the money is not wasted. It has a shelf life of 2 years and you can use it as a "cleaner polish" on areas otherwise in good condition. If not working for the water spots after above - you can safely step up to something a bit stronger - PO106 or even PO203. Sure other professional deatailers here may chip in - also there is Ask a Pro section on Detailed Image. Rest of the vehicle looks spanking nice though. Hope this helps.
11-27-2012, 02:30 PM
Thanks Sadi - the spots are more general from washing and faint enough for only a perfectionist to notice in the right light and angle. What you said is good to know. Think that the PO85 with a Blue LC pad on a PC will be a starting point. I guess my biggest concern as a noob was breaking out a polish too soon on a new car (not sure it's even a valid concern) and doing damage (near or long term) to get rid of something I only notice.
11-27-2012, 03:24 PM
heres a chart comparing menzerna products:
PO85RD has barely any cut and is usually used as a last step polishing to "burnish" the paint finish for even more gloss. Use this with the self diminishing method and it can make paint shine.
I personally think you may need something with a little bit more bite for the future and as well to get rid of ALL the water spots since some BMW black paint can be a bit hard. I'd suggest PO106FA as a step up and first to try the PO85 and then if needed step up to the PO106FA.
I'd also suggest you try using vinegar first. Take a MF towel and splash a little vinegar on it and let it sit on a 1" x 1" spot and see if it works to help remove it. Spray some IPA and wipe to clean off the vinegar and to see if the water spots are still there.
11-28-2012, 01:16 AM
There are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)
Stage I (Surface) Corrosion[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]
Stage II (Sub-surface) Corrosion[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
***8220;Removing Water (Spots) Marks***8221; - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/136608-removing-water-spots-marks.html#post1448627
I hope the information in this article is of some help to you. If you have any further questions please let me know
11-28-2012, 08:13 AM
You guys are the best! This is extremely helpful, especially the link from TOGWT. It was information overload - thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Will practice on my other two cars first.
12-06-2012, 01:24 AM
I agree, the link is very helpful. Very interesting too!
12-06-2012, 09:16 PM
I would go with Menzerna SF4000 (https://detailersdomain.com/Menzerna-SF-4000-aka-Super-Finish-PO106FA-Pint_p_134.html) as a starting point, what machine are you using the PC?
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