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View Full Version : Another project "HACKED"...Autodimming rearview mirror


The HACK
05-19-2002, 06:00 PM
Picture to come later...I didn't actually take any but I can snap a few picture of the interior to give y'all some idea how the entire process goes.

First off, I started the project yesterday with the intention of finishing it up by the time Kaz stopped by to look at his sway/suspension problems. The Mirror and the wiring harness is fairly straight forward, the mirror snaps right off and the harness is a simple plug and play...The instructions tells you exactly where to plug in the little wires into the harness. Removing the headliner is also a piece of cake, remove the long strip on the A pillar, remove the 3 #20 Torx screw, and just yank the cover off. The driver's side Oh Sh*t handle cover hides 2 screws, the vanity mirror has 2 screws, and the vanity mirror holder has 2 screws AND an expanding rivet. Of course, in removing the headliner I accidentally torn my weather stripping, now it's being held in by some epoxy glue. :(

Anyway, hooked up the wiring harness, snaked it along the headliner and clipped them into the existing wiring clip along with some plastic ties, and removed the driver's side vent by removing the trim panel and exposing the 2 screws holding the vent in. Funny side note, you'd be surprised how crappy the worksmanship is in your car. I noticed 1 missing rivet in the passenger side vanity mirror holder and 1 missing screw in the driver's side vent. But I digress. Anyway, I snake the wiring harness around the HPS airbag, through the driver's side vent carefully avoiding the pipes feeding into the vent, and down underneath the driver's side underpanel. All this took about 15-20 minutes, and I was just thinking, god, this is pretty easy! Took off the panel underneath and started looking for ground X217. Checked the diagram, checked underneath the steering column...Nothing. Nothing looks even remotely like ground X217 on the diagram. I even have Kaz look for me and I was baffled as to what to do next...If I can't ground the wires then it might set off some fault code or have some problems. So I just bundled everything back up and drove off since I had to catch Star Wars Episode II in a couple of hours.

Anyway, after playing hockey this morning and a quick shower, my hack instinct tells me it's got to be a lot easier than this. The ground was pretty much the only thing holding up the installation (so I thought). Screw this, I'm just going to find another ground wire and splice in. 20 minutes later I have a make shift splice with one of the provided splitters and found a suitable brown/black wire. Cross my fingers and hooked that up. Snaked the wires around the steering column and up a small, 1" diameter tunnel up to the back of the fuse box. Dismantled the glove compartment by unhooking the hinges, unscrewed the hinge cover, and removed the 5 screws holding the glove compartment in. Voila, dropped the fuse box and found the two remaining wires hanging down from the top of the tunnel. Inserted the blue/yellow wire into the top part of the fuse box (I think this is what provides power when you turn key to access II/Power on mode), inserted the green/yellow wire into fuse position 24 and...Realized I had inserted the wire into the wrong slot. There are 3 slots on a fuse panel, the top one I have no idea what it's for, the bottom one goes to the Central Control Unit and the middle one is where I'm suppose to insert the wire. Great I though, just pull the wire out, right? WRONG. I had to insert a tiny screw driver and pound the wire back out with a hammer because it's got this small tab that holds the wire into the harness/fuse panel. It took me about an hour's worth of struggling to get it out in decent shape.

Now that I got the wire into the right fuse panel, turn on the keys, put my finger over the front censor...VOILA! The mirror slowly dims. Another "successful" hack project completed. I just got to put the glove box back together. :)

nate
05-19-2002, 06:00 PM
I would read it all, but I already have one :p

jpherit
05-19-2002, 09:13 PM
:dunno:

Did you get the autodimming mirror from BMW, if so what is PN?

Or, did you buy it from the company that makes them?

Kaz
05-19-2002, 09:19 PM
Originally posted by jpherit
:dunno:

Did you get the autodimming mirror from BMW, if so what is PN?

Or, did you buy it from the company that makes them?

IIRC, he traded with an E46M3 owner who wanted a non-dimming mirror. I saw HACK's mirror yesterday and its the oval M3 one. Looks cool, and the clownnose is more hidden (which I like) but the overall usable area is smaller. :thumbdwn:

___lk___
05-19-2002, 10:06 PM
ok hack, now tell me how to DISABLE my factory dimming mirror, since i hate it for the same reason Andy Chi traded his to you: you cant tell when an unmarked cop car is following you at night...hell u can barely see the lightbar on a fully marked cruiser.

it creeps me out when u can just see a pair of dim headlights in your rearview for miles.. :rolleyes:

Mr Paddle.Shift
05-20-2002, 01:07 AM
Great Job! :D :thumb:

Also for those who are thinking of retrofitting the dimming mirror, the E46M3 oval one will work on a sedan too. :) And E46 sedan here ordered it from Germany.

Alex Baumann
05-20-2002, 03:28 AM
Originally posted by VinceTopasBlau3
Great Job! :D :thumb:

Also for those who are thinking of retrofitting the dimming mirror, the E46M3 oval one will work on a sedan too. :) And E46 sedan here ordered it from Germany.

Isn't the oval mirror a bit smaller than the 'normal' ones ?

The HACK
05-20-2002, 09:05 AM
Originally posted by ___lk___
ok hack, now tell me how to DISABLE my factory dimming mirror, since i hate it for the same reason Andy Chi traded his to you: you cant tell when an unmarked cop car is following you at night...hell u can barely see the lightbar on a fully marked cruiser.

it creeps me out when u can just see a pair of dim headlights in your rearview for miles.. :rolleyes:

Remove fuse number 24 in your fuse box inside the glove compartment. Do be aware that also disable your PDC

The HACK
05-20-2002, 09:06 AM
Originally posted by Alex Baumann


Isn't the oval mirror a bit smaller than the 'normal' ones ?

The oval mirror is larger in surface area but smaller in usable area because of the shape. It doesn't cover the corners in your rear winshield where as the normal mirror will show all 4 corners and then some.

JK
05-20-2002, 09:48 PM
Did your harness come with all the bits noted on the instruction sheet? I got harness 51 16 0 001 231 and received only the harness. The Service manager printed off the instructions from the CD and I notice on page 2 there are about 8 extra pieces I should have. Did you order a different harness number?

The HACK
05-21-2002, 08:48 AM
Originally posted by JK
Did your harness come with all the bits noted on the instruction sheet? I got harness 51 16 0 001 231 and received only the harness. The Service manager printed off the instructions from the CD and I notice on page 2 there are about 8 extra pieces I should have. Did you order a different harness number?

I'd have to look it up on my invoice, but it came with everything, including the wire splitters, wire ties, the connector housing, and a spare fuse, and a couple of wire clips.

KP
05-21-2002, 12:12 PM
:D Nice. I always thought the oval one would have more visibility, which is why I thought about getting one (or the lovely broadway mirrors:lmao: ). I would choose for no-dimming, since I hate auto-dimming at night:)

The HACK
05-21-2002, 12:37 PM
Originally posted by KP
:D Nice. I always thought the oval one would have more visibility, which is why I thought about getting one (or the lovely broadway mirrors:lmao: ). I would choose for no-dimming, since I hate auto-dimming at night:)

Well, they'll come UN-DIMMING if you don't have autodimming mirror already. The reason why I opted for the retrofit of the wiring harness is PURELY due to curiosity, and the fact that the autodim mirrors does not have that little featuer where you just flip the clown nose and it flips the mirror down. :(

You can always remove fuse #24 too. :)

KP
05-21-2002, 12:51 PM
Originally posted by The HACK


Well, they'll come UN-DIMMING if you don't have autodimming mirror already. The reason why I opted for the retrofit of the wiring harness is PURELY due to curiosity, and the fact that the autodim mirrors does not have that little featuer where you just flip the clown nose and it flips the mirror down. :(

You can always remove fuse #24 too. :)

Yeah, I forgot about that little clown nose:tsk: . But I would never pay the ridiculous amount for the mirror, way too much. Wonder if they have one that is not auto-dim...:dunno: . You were lucky you have a friend to trade with.

JK
05-21-2002, 09:05 PM
Have you been able to track down the part number of your harness/retrofit kit? Or have you been busy working on another mod?!

The HACK
05-21-2002, 11:14 PM
Originally posted by JK
Have you been able to track down the part number of your harness/retrofit kit? Or have you been busy working on another mod?!

Sorry, was writing an evaluation article for the local chapter newsletter. :D

Part number on the invoice was 51 16 0 001 231, same as yours. I ordered from Pacific BMW if that matters. Comes with all clips and even a spare fuse.

JK
05-22-2002, 06:58 PM
Thanks, HACK! I told the dealer where I purchased my stuff (Alexander) and he is reordering the part # and will give me the extra bits.

Kaz
05-22-2002, 07:21 PM
Originally posted by KP


Yeah, I forgot about that little clown nose:tsk: . But I would never pay the ridiculous amount for the mirror, way too much. Wonder if they have one that is not auto-dim...:dunno: . You were lucky you have a friend to trade with.

I just checked and it looks like the oval mirror only comes in autodim.

The HACK
05-22-2002, 10:51 PM
Originally posted by Kaz


I just checked and it looks like the oval mirror only comes in autodim.

Just don't hook up the harness and it won't autodim. :D

By the way, bought some REAL rubber sealant/glue this afternoon...The tear in the weather strip is GROWING. :(

Kaz
05-22-2002, 10:58 PM
Originally posted by The HACK


Just don't hook up the harness and it won't autodim. :D

By the way, bought some REAL rubber sealant/glue this afternoon...The tear in the weather strip is GROWING. :(

But a disconnected non-dimming mirror still costs the same as one that works. :D

I think you need new weatherstrip...

The HACK
05-22-2002, 11:06 PM
Originally posted by Kaz


But a disconnected non-dimming mirror still costs the same as one that works. :D

I think you need new weatherstrip...

Yeah, tell me something I don't know.

I'm trying to find a way to weasel my service department into fixing it for free. Joanne's car needs a new door strip too. :(

Hey, I finally got Raffi's short shift kit to stop making a noise when it's in gear...It turns out the missing screw on the ERK made that big of a difference. However, now his shifter is making a soft, plasticky rattling sound as he changes gear. I remember you had SOME issues with that as well...Did you ever properly get that resolved?

I guess I can always just search the archives. ;)

Kaz
05-22-2002, 11:27 PM
My SSK action is pretty much perfect now. No clunks, no wooshing, and really minor noise transmission. Had to take the top half of the lever apart completely, and hopefully it'll never have to come apart again.

I don't know if the more recent production change changes the noises it makes, but here's how mine is:

Take the sucker apart. There is a hex setscrew on the front of the lever behind a sticker or a gob of silicone that needs to back most of the way out (you can remove it but there's no need). Use a 24mm wrench or channellocks and loosen the bottom 'nut' till its completely free. The upper lever should pull off. Heck, the 2nd time I left the knob on and pulled it off with the boot as an assembly. There will be 2 orange silicone rubber pieces. One is a tube about 1.25in long, and the other is a cap that SHOULD be attached to the shaft that remains sticking out of the console. If its not there, its lodged in the part you just removed. It may take a little effort to take both pieces out of the upper lever. Clean everything, especially the inside of the cap and the top of the stub.

Now for reassembly. Make sure that lower nut is on the stub. Slide the tube on. Use some sort of adhesive to attach the cap to the top of the stub. I used JBWeld the first time and it fell off after a couple weeks, so I went with CA the 2nd time, and its held up so far.

Now the stub should have the nut, tube and cap on in that order. Slide the upper lever on. This might take a bit of wiggling around, since its a pretty close fit. Just make sure that cap is really on, or else it'll fall off while you're doing this. Aline the hole with the setscrew with the groove on the front of the stub, making sure the rubber tube is far down enough to not block the hole. Thread the nut back into the upper lever, but not tight. Adjust the height of the lever to your liking (mine is 'stock', i.e. all the way up), tighten the setscrew until the setscrew is riding in the groove, enough that the lever won't pop off, but not tight tight down to the stub, or else it will transmit noise. Tighten the lower nut till the lever is solid.

Enjoy!