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View Full Version : CV - Output Shaft Inner Boot Replacement How-to


yetiboy
10-24-2004, 12:21 AM
Both my inner CV boots on the output shafts cracked, so I decided to tackle them today.

Part List for Both Sides...
2 qty. Inner Boot Repair Kit - 33 219 067 805
2 qty. Axle Nut - 33 41 1 133 785

**Some pictures below**

1) Jack up rear and place car on jackstands

2) Remove rear wheels

3) Loosen rear axle nut (36 mm socket). I ended up using my floor jack handle as an extension on my 1/2" drive ratchet as a long breaker bar, as the axle nut is torqued down to 221 ft/lbs

4) Remove the six output shaft screws with E12 socket

5) Remove output shaft ---> BMW TIS will tell you that you need a special tool to remove and install. I just took a large wooden dowel (so as to not damage the output shaft), placed it on the output shaft end and gave the dowel a few blows with the hammer and it popped right out

6) Place halfshaft in vice, if you have one, and take a small screwdriver and pop off the cv joint sealing cap (the one at the very end of the output shaft)w/ a few soft blows with the hammer. You can now see the inboard side of the cv joint

7) Remove small circlip on cv joint inboard side

8) Take your small screwdriver again and pop off the sealing cap on the other side (this is the side with the actual rubber boot on it)

9) Take a small dowel or, in my case, I used a small piece of strong plastic about 6 inches long place it at the back of the cv and softly tapped on the cv to remove it from the shaft. (once again the BMW TIS says you need to press the CV off --absolutely no need to have a press ---> just take your time and don't hammer on the cv directly)

10) Clean the CV joint of all the old grease. If you end up wanting to take the entire joint apart you will need to mark everything, so you can re-assemble EXACTLY as it was assembled before.

11) Slide new CV boot onto shaft...Make sure you put some grease (included in the repair kit) in the CV boot

12) Grease up the CV joint and tap it softly back on the axle shaft

13) Install new circlip

14) Put sealing gel on the inside of the sealing cap (the one on the boot side) and install on the cv joint

15) Put a bit of grease in the outside sealcap and make sure the outer portion of the CV has plenty of grease.

16) Put sealing gel on the inside of the sealing cap and install on the cv joint

17) Make sure you install the small clamp that is included in the repair kit on the rubber boot

18) Install output shaft and reassemble

19) Make sure you torque the new axle shaft nut to 221 ft/lbs and lock /secure the axle nut by "caulking" the nut at the flat area of the output shaft

Inner CV Joint Repair kit
Top row from L-to-R - Sealing cap, Rubber boot & Sealing cap, Grease
Bottom row L-to-R - Sealing gel, CV Circlip, CV boot clamp, Axle Nuts

http://bockusbrewing.com/Halfshaft5.jpg

Output shaft removed.....

http://bockusbrewing.com/Halfshaft1.jpg

Old cracked & nasty CV Boot...

http://bockusbrewing.com/Halfshaft3.jpg

CV Joint after removal from Axle...

http://bockusbrewing.com/Halfshaft2.jpg

New CV Boot after installation....

http://bockusbrewing.com/Halfshaft4.jpg

MSH

bob lindquist
10-24-2004, 03:57 AM
Great post, Thanks.

This will come in handy when its my time.

How many miles on the car?

Randy Forbes
10-24-2004, 08:26 AM
Thanks Mark!

I believe you're the first one of "us" to do this. I know I haven't seen the inside of my CV's yet...

Of course you realize, you just generated another Fix-it Day! :p

Let us know how (all) the IE Bushing installs go.

yetiboy
10-24-2004, 09:28 AM
Great post, Thanks.

This will come in handy when its my time.

How many miles on the car?

Bob,

I only have 40K miles on the car. I'm not sure why mine failed so early. It's kind of bizarre that both inner boots failed at the same time. BMW denied me warranty coverage on them by using the..."it's probably your low car with the suspension" argument. They used the stiff and low suspension argument when I went in for my diff mount and floorpan cracking issue, but I was having none of it with that issue. I didn't give them any flak this time around because, for the most part, my dealer has taken very good care of me.

Possibilities...

1) The single walled pipe from the Magnaflow exhaust may have generated more heat than the stock double walled system. I imagine all the track days I have done has got the exhaust up to some pretty high temps. My solution will be to apply some sort of heat shield on the exhaust in that general area of the cv boot

2) Abuse Factor - My 3.23 and 3.73 diffs have been in the car and out of the car what seems like 100 times. Maybe the constant touching/rubbing, etc weakened them somewhat

3) The subframe cracking/reinforcement by body shop - When my car was being repaired for the diff mount crack and floorpan cracking the body shop could have partially damaged or compromised the integrity of the boot in the entire process??

MSH

Ron Stygar
10-24-2004, 11:06 PM
[QUOTE=yetiboy]Both my inner CV boots on the output shafts cracked, so I decided to tackle them today.

The outer ones were fine?

yetiboy
10-24-2004, 11:07 PM
[QUOTE=yetiboy]Both my inner CV boots on the output shafts cracked, so I decided to tackle them today.

The outer ones were fine?

Yes...outer ones were a-ok.

MSH