Lowering and sports suspension vs. non-sports

[mjames]

My car came without the Sports Package (SP), but I added the SP wheels later. I still ride with the standard, non-SP suspension. I was wondering if anyone has pics or info on how the SP looks vs. the non-SP. I might want to lower my car and might just go with the SP suspension if I can find one for sale. Do you all think it would be worth it? The wheels are the big thing especially for looks, but what about non-SP vs. SP?

The main thing I want to do is lower my car to the SP level ... should I just buy some new springs? I saw like Eibach Pro-Kit Springs at BavAuto.com for less than $300 and they are supposed to lower you 1.4". Is that good? And does anyone know how much this stuff will cost (about) to get installed?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks!

<edit>I found this (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82131&highlight=Eibach+ProKit+Springs) thread and it looks like Eibach tend to be pretty stiff. I'm not looking for a cushy ride, but nothing extreme, either. What's my best bet to lower my ride in the $300-$500 range?

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

My car came without the Sports Package (SP), but I added the SP wheels later. I still ride with the standard, non-SP suspension. I was wondering if anyone has pics or info on how the SP looks vs. the non-SP. I might want to lower my car and might just go with the SP suspension if I can find one for sale. Do you all think it would be worth it? The wheels are the big thing especially for looks, but what about non-SP vs. SP?

The main thing I want to do is lower my car to the SP level ... should I just buy some new springs? I saw like Eibach Pro-Kit Springs at BavAuto.com for less than $300 and they are supposed to lower you 1.4". Is that good? And does anyone know how much this stuff will cost (about) to get installed?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks!

<edit>I found this (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82131&highlight=Eibach+ProKit+Springs) thread and it looks like Eibach tend to be pretty stiff. I'm not looking for a cushy ride, but nothing extreme, either. What's my best bet to lower my ride in the $300-$500 range?
There is no best bet. The car will feel like crap with stock shocks and springs.

[mjames]

Well, Nick, you must admit you have pretty strict standards... :rofl:

I'm just looking for advice on the best way to lower my car to SP-levels ... what would be the price range a dealer would charge for this? Or should I go aftermarket?

[EdCT]

Well, Nick, you must admit you have pretty strict standards... :rofl:

I'm just looking for advice on the best way to lower my car to SP-levels ... what would be the price range a dealer would charge for this? Or should I go aftermarket?

I went with a TC Kline set-up, koni sport adjustable shocks and H&R springs.

This brought the front down 1.4 and the rear .75; I did this to improve the car's handling over the non sp for autocross purposes, NOT for looks (I dislike lowered suspensions aesthetically).

It's a big change, you'll need to re-aim the headlights, do a four-wheel alignment and get used to being a bit pitched a bit forward in the driver's seat.

The SP package that was available on my car, an '00 323, didn't lower the car quite as much, I believe, but it's difficult to find one with less, these days.

Just about everyone who sees my car, now, loves the look, except me :dunno: I don't have a pic, sorry.

Ed

EDIT: BTW, the car is transformed, without getting into its superior handling for autox etc., it's much more stable on the highway, my old suspension always got light and floaty at higher interstate speeds, this new setup makes the car feel glued down at 80 mph plus.

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

I went with a TC Kline set-up, koni sport adjustable shocks and H&R springs.

This brought the front down 1.4 and the rear .75; I did this to improve the car's handling over the non sp for autocross purposes, NOT for looks (I dislike lowered suspensions aesthetically).

It's a big change, you'll need to re-aim the headlights, do a four-wheel alignment and get used to being a bit pitched a bit forward in the driver's seat.

The SP package that was available on my car, an '00 323, didn't lower the car quite as much, I believe, but it's difficult to find one with less, these days.

Just about everyone who sees my car, now, loves the look, except me :dunno: I don't have a pic, sorry.

Ed
Your car would handle better with the tail lower. E46es need all the front travel they can get, and like the rear slammed.

...of course, the front fenders on the M3 are just barely over the wheels simply because my Motons won't allow the car to go any higher, and as a consequence the rear it seriously freaking low, too. I actually wish that I could get the car up a bit higher.

[mjames]

So what's the height difference between the sports package and non-sports? I definitely don't want to be so low it sticks out. I just want a slightly lowered, more aggressive appearance.

But re-aiming my headlights? I have halogens, is that necessary?

I don't do any tracking now. I am doing this for appearance and handling because I do like to have fun on twisty roads.

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

Well, Nick, you must admit you have pretty strict standards... :rofl:

I'm just looking for advice on the best way to lower my car to SP-levels ... what would be the price range a dealer would charge for this? Or should I go aftermarket?
You need shocks and springs. The stock shocks degrade to 50% of their as new damping capacity within 10,000 miles. And that's with stock springs.

[EdCT]

Your car would handle better with the tail lower. E46es need all the front travel they can get, and like the rear slammed.

...of course, the front fenders on the M3 are just barely over the wheels simply because my Motons won't allow the car to go any higher, and as a consequence the rear it seriously freaking low, too. I actually wish that I could get the car up a bit higher.

Nick,

Good point, I've been pondering the rear ride height issue as, like you, I'm married to this front ride height. I would've preferred a higher front drop, either .75 or an inch, but all the kits I looked into from Turner, Kline, Autotechnic etc., seemed to go at least 1.4 in the front.

The adjustable Koni's are fantastic, though; I've got them at full soft for daily driving up here in bumpy NE and it's exactly what you want a street suspension to be, compliant, yet stiff at the same time (sounds funny, but true).

Ed

[EdCT]

So what's the height difference between the sports package and non-sports? I definitely don't want to be so low it sticks out. I just want a slightly lowered, more aggressive appearance.

But re-aiming my headlights? I have halogens, is that necessary?

I don't do any tracking now. I am doing this for appearance and handling because I do like to have fun on twisty roads.

Re-aming the headlights in an E46 is a cinch, there are two "cranks", one controls height, the other side to side.

The one you'll mostly use is the height, it's on the inside (under the hood) of the headlight assembly and can be turned with your fingers (perhaps someone can show you a pic), before lowering the car, park your car and check your light beams (at night) against your garage doors, then, after lowering simply raise the lights to match the old height. then drive around a bit, at night, and see if you're pissing off oncoming drivers :D

If you don't re-aim, your low beam cut-off will be way too low and your visibility will be reduced for anything above 20 mph.

Ed

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

Nick,

Good point, I've been pondering the rear ride height issue as, like you, I'm married to this front ride height. I would've preferred a higher front drop, either .75 or an inch, but all the kits I looked into from Turner, Kline, Autotechnic etc., seemed to go at least 1.4 in the front.

The adjustable Koni's are fantastic, though; I've got them at full soft for daily driving up here in bumpy NE and it's exactly what you want a street suspension to be, compliant, yet stiff at the same time (sounds funny, but true).

Ed
Yeah, unfortunately, the bling monkeys rule on cheap spring kits, and they seem to like absurd rake. I think my 323 came with Eibach springs, although I'll check on that when the A-D coilovers go on this weekend. It's not very low in the front and slammed in the tail, which is perfect. It's got almost no rake measured to the rocker panels (which leaves just enough chassis rake).

[mjames]

So I'm looking at the UUC Motorwerks site and the tuned spring set runs $350. Then they recommend you get their SwayBarbarian if you have the stock non-SP suspenson. That's $700, not including installation. Now I need new shocks and will have to fiddle with my headlights? Ouch. This is seeming too costly and not worth the trouble. :dunno:

[Pinecone]

You need shocks and springs. The stock shocks degrade to 50% of their as new damping capacity within 10,000 miles. And that's with stock springs.

That's on the M3s, not necessarily the non-M E46s.

The E46 M3 has very high dapening rates, but a relatively cheap, lower line shock. Sachs makes higher line shocks that can maintain the high dmpening rate for much longer, but BMW seems to have cheaped out.

Typically on non-M cars, the shocks are good for some 80K miles, with stock springs. Put in aftermarket springs with stock shocks and all bets are off.