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  • · Registered
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    41 Posts
    well. anyways. when you get this....

    I just purchased a 2001 530i. The keyless entry doesnt work. None of the buttons.
    When I use the key in the door it does lock and unlock all doors, and beeps to sound the alarm.

    I have tried the following.
    Turn key to position 1 (for less then 5 secs)
    Take key out
    Hold near rear view mirror
    Press and hold unlock button while pressing lock button 3 times
    door locks do not cycle

    i have also tried turning key to position 2. nothing
    i have tried turning on and off 5 times fast. nothing
    i have tried holding the lock button and pressing unlock button 3 times. nothing

    i have basically tried every possible sequence of the above

    The fuel door DOES NOT lock when doors are locked. I looked at fuse #53 and it was blown.
    I replaced it.
    tried all different sequences again.
    nothing.
    Checked the fuse and its fine.
    Disconnected fuel actuator.
    Tried all sequences again.
    Nothing.

    I even had te key charging in the ACC position for 4 hours last night. I would let it sit, go turn over the engine every 20-40 mins.

    Any ideas at all?
    Does it sound like a bad key?

    Thanks for any help.

    · Registered
    2014 F15 X5 50i & 2015 F06 650ix GC
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    14,174 Posts
    Hmmm, it could be lots of things...but when weird electrical things that seem unrelated occur...the first place I look is the battery. Check it out (or have it checked) to make sure that it is keeping a charge...or that the voltage isn't dropping below normal capacity.

    If you unlocked your instrument cluster...you could run TEST 9 to see if the battery voltage has dropped below 11.8 volts. At 11.8 volts, your battery is at 0% "state of charge". Which does NOT mean that the battery is totally dead...there will still be residual power to run the lights, dash, horn etc. You can also take the car to many of the automotive stores like Batteries Plus, AutoZone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's etc...and they will usually have a machine that can test your alternator and battery to see if they are charging etc.

    If the battery/alternator appear to be okay after checking them out...then you may want to check your ignition switch....which is another component that can create strange electrical behavior from multiple areas when it starts to fail. Check out this link: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=18720577&postcount=7

    Check out the two suggestions above to see if they may be the problem. But again, it could be other things...as well as multiple issues occurring at the same time

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    29 Posts
    Hi i have a question for you you seem to know alot about the bmws.....
    I have a 97 528i as im driving the hazard lights come on amd th doors unlock on there own. Them the central locking button dont work to lock the doors again till latercanyou help me.....

    · Registered
    2014 F15 X5 50i & 2015 F06 650ix GC
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    14,174 Posts
    Somethings not right in your description of issues...the little fan inside the IHKA shuts off when the car goes to sleep after 16 minutes of inactivity from anything on the P-bus (door handles, locks, windows, etc). It shouldn't be the culprit of a dead battery because as long as the key isn't in the ignition and the doors opened etc. ...it should shut down after 16 minutes of inactivity. You can test this by rolling the windows down, parking in a quiet spot, and coming back AFTER 16 minutes. Don't lock the car because you will set off the interior motion sensor when you come back and lean into the car to listen to see if the little fan in the IHKA control panel is running. REMEMBER...DO NOT lift the door handle or operate any of the windows...NOR...press any of the buttons on your remote key. So basically, if you come back to the car AFTER 16 minutes and the little light is illuminated next to the gear shift lever, then the car did NOT shut down (go to sleep)....wait until that light goes off, then listen to see if the fan is still running.

    A failing FSU/FSR that controls the HVAC blower will/can continue to run when the car is off and parked etc...and can drain a battery. And if you have the AUTO cliimate control IHKA panel...if the word "AUTO" appears in the fan speed control display above the little "dashes"...the car will automatically operate the fan speed control. If you only see the "dashes" in the fan speed display...then you have it set to manual fan speed control. This could be why the speed changes and you haven't "touched" anything on the panel.

    These instructions are from my e38 owners manual...but the text is the SAME in the e39:

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    72 Posts
    Hi Q
    Thanks for the advice, as for the A/C unit when the car if off its doesnt blow any air ( no fan running ). Only when the car is running that it will sometimes come on without me hitting any buttons. I guess it's something I should get looked at but as I had mentioned it wasnt a big concern.
    I am thinking its the little fan you mention because when I didnt drive the car for about four to five days I found the battery dead. Would buying a new A/C panel for the car solve this problem or is it something more I should get looking at ? I see on ebay I can pick one up for about 130.00
    Thanks again Robert

    · Registered
    2014 F15 X5 50i & 2015 F06 650ix GC
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    14,174 Posts
    If your HVAC fan is working intermittantly...you really need to check (search) to see if you need to replace your FSR/FSU (final stage resistor/final stage unit...it gets called by both names). Letting that go could leave you stranded...because if the HVAC's fan continues to run all night & day...it can drain your battery.

    There is also a small fan inside the IHKA panel (AC/Heat control panel) that draws air in across a thermister...this is how the IHKA system regulates the temp you have set. This fan is connected to the P-bus which is a system in the car attached to the door modules...so anytime you activate the door locks/windows/sunroof etc...the P-bus "awakes" and stands ready for your entry. The way to know when the P-bus is activated and the car is "awake"...is when you see the little orange light illuminated next to your gearshift handle.

    I can't tell from what you wrote as to if what you were hearing was the little fan inside the IHKA panel...or if your HVAC systems blower fan was still running because your FSR/FSU has failed.

    Good luck.

    · Registered
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    72 Posts
    Hi Q
    Need your advice again lol. I noticed after I turned the car off and was cleaning the inside I think I hear a fan going on and off ever so slightly ???? My A/C has been acting up where it will come on or off intermittently when the car is on and I have been able to live with it. This sound is so faint I really wasn't sure if it was coming from the car ????? but I belive it is. Any ideas ????? or fixes ???
    Thanks again
    Robert

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    7 Posts
    Hey Q I need help whit my key I only have 1 don't know If its the master or not
    tried to reprogramed it as you say (fuse, gas door everything seems fine
    I need some help let me know.....

    · Registered
    2014 F15 X5 50i & 2015 F06 650ix GC
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    14,174 Posts
    1. No, it is NOT hard to remove the instrument cluster...it is only held in by two small screws at the very top, then you tip it forward and remove the 3 connectors that are plugged into the rear of the cluster. Again, there are only two screws (#3 in diagram below from Realoem.com)



    2. The price sounds about what many pay to have it done by some of the vendors that do this work...and is about what many pay for labor/parts with the goodwill replacement clusters from BMW NA.

    3. The danger would be in how good they are and how many have they done...and most importantly...is there a warranty or such in case something happens...like if the gauges get broken off. Will you be out a cluster, or will they replace it?

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    72 Posts
    Hi Q Thanks again for your help just wanted to get your thoughts on this issue. Most of my pixels are out in my cluster and its something I have wanted to get fixed for some time. BMW Canada doesnt offer the fix program that the US has, so its all out of my wallet. I have found a local guy who has a nice web site and that I spoke to who will fix the cluster for $220.00 and have it done in a day or two. He wants me to remove it from the car and then he will work on it. First is it hard to remove I am not machanical at all. Second does this price sound too cheap ??? and what are the dangers if any of an indy guy doing this ??? Thanks Robert

    · Registered
    2014 F15 X5 50i & 2015 F06 650ix GC
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    14,174 Posts
    Hi Robert,
    The issue you describe does sound like a door lock actuator. If you decide to tackle this project or purchase it and have someone else do it...just go to any of the online part databases www.realoem.com or www.bmwfans.info or www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/ and pull up the diagram so you can get the BMW part nbr. You can then shop online (having the BMW part nbr helps with not ordering the wrong part) with BMW dealers or aftermarket vendors, or even your local BMW dealership. You'll also get an idea of how much the part will run.

    For example...click this link to the front door and the actuator (#2 in diagram) for the 540i: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DN63&mospid=47588&btnr=41_0026&hg=41&fg=40&hl=29

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    72 Posts
    Hi Q
    Thanks for your help, wanted your advice on my driver side door lock. When I use my keyless remote the lock comes up really slow and sometimes I have to press twice to open all the doors. Same when I lock the car sometimes it goes down and sometimes it doesnt. I find if I press the keyless a few times it will finaly open or close. Someone mentioned that I might need a "Door Lock Actuator" I am not sure what that is but I see I can buy one for about $80.00 or do you think it is a motor. Is this something I can fix or at least buy the part to get my indy to fix it. Any advice would be great !!!!
    Cheers Robert

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    72 Posts
    Hi Q
    Quick question for you I had my alternator recently replaced and the car has been sitting for a week when I went to start it the batter was dead. I hooked up jumpers and got her going pretty fast. The car sat for another week and same problem. Is there any way I can see if it is a battery problem or alternator ???? Someone mentioned I can run a test in the car to see what the voltage is ???? If it is a dead battery what brand do you recomend ( 2001 540i ) Cheers Robert

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    212 Posts
    "FYI: The alternator needs to put out MORE current than what the battery is rated...this is what "recharges" the battery. If the alternator's output is the same or lower than the battery, then it can't overcome the battery's internal resistance. The greater the ouput difference...the faster the battery recharges. "

    QS7, not a challenge here but this is not 100% correct. You might want to research how lead acid batteries work internally. Just an FYI... -Dennis

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    2,043 Posts
    Hey Q!
    Do you know the size of the torx screws that holds the positive battery terminal on the valve covers on our 540i's? Mine don't tighten and I wanted to find a screw similar in length but just a tad wider so it'll tighten.

    Thanks.
    Al
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