The following pics show where I'm at.
Will order the back plate for clearer pics. Have the front piece to show how it comes apart.
The bulbs are part of the bulb socket. More to come.
This thread is extremely helpful in explaining how to access these HVAC bulbs. I was able to get to the bulbs pretty easily.
But now, I have a different problem - I only intended to change the bottom bulb. I went to the auto parts store, found the GE #37 bulb, inserted it, and reassembled. NO WORKY! Not only that, but the other bulb - the one that is behind on the passenger side - doesn't work either! I checked fuses, none seem to be blown. Any suggestions as to what I did?
This thread is extremely helpful in explaining how to access these HVAC bulbs. I was able to get to the bulbs pretty easily.
But now, I have a different problem - I only intended to change the bottom bulb. I went to the auto parts store, found the GE #37 bulb, inserted it, and reassembled. NO WORKY! Not only that, but the other bulb - the one that is behind on the passenger side - doesn't work either! I checked fuses, none seem to be blown. Any suggestions as to what I did?
Ron, your advice and posting on your site about this is great. Following your advice and gettin some bulbs locally I was able to find the problem and fix it in about 20 minutes. Thank you for the help and for the offer of the bulbs for such a good price. You make tackling mods a whole lot easier!
Yep. I tried replacing just the bulbs, not the holders, with a corresponding GE bulb from a parts store. It didn't work. I then went to the dealer and bought the bulbs with the holder in a single unit. Plugged in the dealer version, it lit right up. Conclusion: dealer part is cheap enough, no need to try to find a substitute.
My experiance with the dealer( was a module change out) under warrenty for $879 for my 2001 2.5 roadster. A little more then the price of two bulbs.
thanks for the information.
Willy
Just a big thanks to Ron for the bulbs. Everything is now iluminated. Now I noticed that the cigarette lighter does not, is there a bulb back there? How do you get to it?
Thanks Randy, the bulb was out of the holder but also burn out, good thing I had a spare (2721 1.2w) laying around and was able to reach it by the side of the console as you sugested.
Any update on an LED bulb for this application? Oh god, I should have tried to change both the bulbs out when I did this the first time. Now the RIGHT one is out.
Just finished replacing both of my bulbs, boy that one in back is a bit tough to get out - tiny pliers might have helped. Thanks Ron for all the great pics. Did you actually buy that HVAC control just to get a nice picture?
I had an interesting side effect - now my temperature gauge actually allows warm air rather than producing heat only when almost all the way to hot position (it used to be more like an off/on switch). Must have been from bending it around to get to that back bulb - caused some linkages to change. I like it better now and it does feel a little different.
Yes and a spare when I was keeping the Z3 forever.
Sold it to Dr. Burr when I sold the Z3 and I think that he sold it
to someone at HC. He sold his Z3 recently.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! It made what would have normally been a 5 hour disaster turn into a 15 minute job. My two cents though...once you get the radio out, it's insanity to try to pull the AC panel through the radio opening. You guys who were able to do that are magicians. I had to change the bulbs while the panel was loose, but still behind the dash. Still a fairly easy job, but it just took a while to figure out how to fit both hands in there at the same time.
I don't think anyone has pulled the panel out through the radio opening. It's just a place to put your hand in to get to the back of the HVAC controls.
As Randy said, unless you have tiny paws, the best way to get it back in place is to go at it from the driver side footwell. Remove the panel that's over the pedals, remove the two screws that hold the center console to the underdash panel, lay in the footwell and reach in there with your left hand. You can get it back in place by feel without seeing it. Pay attention to the door chime, it's all too easy to knock it off.
Thanks for the info. One more tip for that pesky left side HVAC bulb, on M models, if you remove your middle gauge, you'll be able to see the left side bulb holder through the hole in the 10 o'clock position. You can reach through the hole and pull it if you have super strong fingertips or you can use a needle nose pliers. This is assuming, you can reach through the stereo opening to turn the collar behind the gauge in order to first remove the gauge.
After a failed attempt without removing the HVAC assembly, I decided to go for it one more time.
I don't remember replacing a pair of bulbs being this gory. Please be carefull when pulling on the plastic lock for the radio wires:
Tools used for this operation:
The mirror helped orient me with the back layout.
Removing the E106 bulb was a lot easier with the HVAC assembly still attached. I didn't want to twist and move it around to much just to get to the bulb later.
I decided not to remove the bulb from the wire to prevent the occasional opsies and dropping the bulb disappearing in the web of wires forever. Just be careful with the needle nose when pulling. Make sure you have a firm grip on the plastic body; you don't want your pliers to slide when yanking and accidentally pulling the wires instead.
Hidden behind cables and plastic arms is the second E105 bulb...what great placement:
This is the part were the HVAC assembly needs to come off:
Just support the assembly with one hand and remove the bulb with the other. The less you disturb the cables of the HVAC the easier it is to install back IMHO.
Check if the lights work before plopping the assembly back.
Putting back the HVAC assy. wasn't as hard as others described, it's just a matter of taking your time & familiarizing yourself with the layout. Check if all the chrome rings are in place. line up the bottom of the HVAC assembly first with the center console, then snap the top in place.
Finally, do not forget the ziploc on the self dimming rearview mirrors before tucking your Z away for the week
My fan speed light, the temp gauge under it and the clock all have lights that go off for a while and then come back after going over a bump or smacking the console. So something must be loose right? Any ideas what to look for since the lights aren't actually out? Aftermarket stereo wiring might be pressing against something or loosened eventually after installation?
I did mine the easy way. I recently had to have the a/c evaporator and expansion valve in the dash replaced to the tune of $1200+ and asked them to replace the bulbs while they had the entire dash apart!
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