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-   -   check engine light- increased emissions (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=307232)

harmonkardon123 08-25-2008 10:34 PM

check engine light- increased emissions
 
I have a check engine light on my 05 545i that reads on the increased emissions, this went on last week when I put cheap gas and then went off when i put in gas with an octane of 91, but it has come on again. Any help with this would be appreciated.

skylolow 08-26-2008 07:49 AM

Mine just came on to about a week ago. I researched around and the conclusion is there is just many different things that can cause this. Everything from bad gas, gas cap not on correctly, bad seal on gas cap, one of the many different emmissions sensors, thermostat, and the list goes on. So mine goes in Friday. I'll tell you what they say.

CLG 08-27-2008 10:01 AM

If you guys did a search, you would find that a couple of us have had this issue in the recent past. Mine was a bad O2 sensor, and I can't remember the other ones' issues. However, you should take it in to get fixed soon.

CLG

skylolow 08-30-2008 09:42 AM

Well took my in Friday and it turned out to be the DMTL Pump part of the fuel system.

Service agent told me it quite common as there is a small valve/flap in this part that once in awhile sticks and sets off the error code FC 27 CB. According to him it usually just unsticks itself but the error code is there. So since it was covered under CPO they just replaced the DMTL Pump.

Asked him about the increased emissions warning and he said its usually a O2 sensor (4 of them I believe are on the car) or its this DMTL Pump. One of those two he said is the reason 90% of the time.

1garry 07-25-2011 10:07 AM

On my 2005 545i I had incresae emission lite change crankcase pressure valve change them reset lite is off

JASONAARONDC 07-25-2011 11:19 AM

Mine was caused by a secondary air pump relay. The dealer told me it was the pump itself. I tested the pump, checked the fuse, and then determined that it was the relay. I changed it 2 months ago and the light went off and hasn't come back on.

If you think its the gas, just go get a bottle of octane booster and take your car for a highway trip and beat on it for a while.

danna 07-25-2011 01:27 PM

good luck with that. I had "increased emissions" turn out to be nothing early in my '05 545i life, but at 75k it meant thermostat, valve cover breather tubes, belts, vacuum pump, vlave cover gaskets, oil pressure switch, and upper timing cover gaskets...to the tune of $1,300.

laro1965 10-04-2011 01:50 PM

Any wisdom/recommendations from you experts would be so appreciated. I've had issues with the rough idle for about 3-4 months now. I spent a couple of hours reading everything I could find on the issue. As far as I can tell, there is a cold start idle issue and and warm start. It seems that mine falls in the category of the warm start.....which from what I've seen on these forums is about 25% of the time. Here's what my car is/has been doing:

1. Turn the car on in the morning and as it warms up, it does something weird after a couple of min, idle comes down to 500 rpm...and yes, I get the increased rpm/surge when I put it in reverse. I can live with that.

2. I have NO ISSUE when the A/C is off. But once the compressor kicks in, the idle goes to 700 rpm and then it begins to wildly flutter up/down. I've seen it as high as 900 and as low as 400 rpm.

3. This issue occurs in Drive only - if I put it in Neutral or Park it idles normal.

4. Have had "Service Eng Soon" light come one a couple of times..with the Increased Emissions message. The first time I took it in to the dealership and they replaced the crankcase valves. I picked it up and was back within 15 min...Light came back on. It ran much smoother after that...but the idle issue came back the next day. I can't remember what they did then but I guess they just cleared the msg??

5. A few days later I get the "Service Eng Soon" light again while sitting at a light with the A/C on. Drove it for about 10 min. Then it idled wildly and I immediately noticed that the "Service Eng Soon" light actually came off or cleared itself. But I was still having the problem. So I went back to the dealership. I left the car on and had the Serv Mgr come sit with me while he watched. He did tell me that light fluttering of the RPM needle is "normal" for these engines (incl. X5 and 745i) but the engine doesnt do what mine was doing. So I leave it again. They check everything and could find nothing else wrong.

6. Serv Mgr calls me and tells me that they are going to try to reprogram the engine overnight (valve lift program?? idk) and they also upgrade the CCC software in iDrive. I mentioned the 25 sec relearning prog and he says: "No, you have to do a computer reprogram for the engine to relearn itself". He tells me they drove it several times that day and could not get it to do the same thing. So I pick it up that evening..running smooth! He also tells me that it may be a bit touchy since its reprogrammed to brand new specs. New software in iDrive and the car is really, really driving well...A/C on and everything.

7. The very next day that evening the rough idle comes back with a vengeance. But I notice the following: the issue is still when the A/C comes on...but when I left during lunch car was fine and I usually keep my A/C temp around 76 F or so (yes, blue bars in iDrive) operating normal. But then in the evening, 90's outside, hot car, A/C acts like normal but then it switches and I can barely get any air. I have to put the thermostat all the way to the left at 60 F and it still not blowing enough. Everytime I come to a stop I have to either endure the idling/sputtering or put it in Neutral. I've been driving like this for about a week now. Everyday is like clock work. Come 5 pm I have to put the A/C on manual so I can get enough air (dont forget I'm in Tx!). Now I got the Service Eng Light-Increased Emissions light again yesterday.

Interesting note: When I dropped off the car the last time at the dealership I printed both SIB's (cold start and warm) and gave them to the Serv Mgr. After I picked up the car he told me that if the reprogramming didnt work that the only alternative is doing the SIB procedure---which he tells me it will be around $2000 or so. I have no warranty, my CPO ran out in Feb 2011. I am really disturbed now because I dont really have ANY confidence or guarantee that the SIB will fix the problem. And besides that...if I want to get rid of the car...who is gonna give me what is worth with this obvious issue?

I do not where to go from here. I'm ready for them to just buy it back...but at what cost? I'm not willing to shell out thousands with no guarantee of a fix. I've really had my fill of this problem.

DD545I 07-25-2012 06:09 PM

I got this warning on my 05 545i last week. Finally had the chance to have it look at a private shop and they said the thermostat is failing and cost of repair is $302 to be exact. Prior to this warning light, i noticed that when cruising between 30-40 miles per hour, the car would drop speed and rpm feels a little choke or hiccup but at higher speed the car runs fine. This is on regular drive mode. Anyhow, I'm taking the car in to a dealership tomorrow morning and have it diagnosed and see what they find out about the "increased emissions"? I'm not going to tell them about the little choke or hiccup just yet.

Anyone experience the same issue?

Will be posting a follow up soon as possible.

borderchris 07-25-2012 06:17 PM

Nice job on reviving a 2008 thread ;)

Anyway, many engine performance parameters get their data from the temperature and position of the the thermostat. Your quote for the job is ridiculous, though- It's a 30 minute job with a $55 part:

http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/the.../bmw/545i.html

Remove the forward lower pan, drain the radiator, remove the air intake, disconnect the sensor wire and hose clip, remove the three screws and replace. Refill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and BMW (or Zerex G-05) coolant, run with the cap off and heater on for a few minutes to bleed, and you're done.

DD545I 07-27-2012 11:49 AM

Unbelievable! Had an appointment with the dealership yesterday 7:15am in hopes of getting that second opinion and find out exactly what the problem maybe. I was told by the service advisor it would take 1-2 hrs to run it through a complete diagnostic test but they NEVER touched my car. Yes, from 7:15am to 4:30pm my car sat there. The advisor was hard to get a hold of and when he did call all he could say was I'm sorry we are really busy and that the service people pulled a "waiter" a customer who had no appointment in front of me. This guy was full of crap! Stay away from BMW of SUCK i mean San Diego!

Anyhow, i found another shop and im taking the car in this afternoon. I hope 3rd time is the charm. I will post another update...

MachtSchnell 07-27-2012 07:21 PM

I hope you find the issue. I had a similar experience, supposedly a puma opened and everything. Turned out to be a bad injector 2 heading out and 2 O2 sensors. A small BMW dealer in ft Walton beach that mostly works on Toyota's found the issue in an hour. Local dealer United BMW Roswell had the car for 4 weeks the last time. 3rd place was the charm.

DD545I 07-31-2012 11:14 AM

Ok, so the 3rd place was a charm :) They just earned a new customer. I found this place through a friend and the guy's name did not ring a bell at first, but it turned out I know the guy the owns the shop. After telling them what i been through, they waive the diagnostic fee. Just as suspected it was a failing thermostat. The first shop was charging me $302. These guys charged me $240 for parts and labor and with the peace of mind that the job was done honestly. I wish BMW of San Diego could of diagnosed the car and given me the results and what cost was going to be. Not that I was gonna have them repair it. I will never go back to them! Anyhow, thanks for the replies. The car is running flawlessly i can tell the difference in performance and no more rough idling. Also, the choke or hiccup that was going on when driving between 30-40 mph is no longer happening.

sassernucka 08-08-2012 02:52 AM

I just had that error pop up and took my 2004 530i to the delership and it turned out to be a bad 02 sensor and it ran me about 600$. the delership kept my car for about 3 days due to them having trouble resetting codes and them just being busy I guess but I got a loaner so it wasn't too bad.

Phil75070 08-09-2012 07:01 AM

I've had intermittent problems with this, too. I needed an oil change and had my indy check it out. They couldn't find anything wrong and reset it - no charge. Another time the Service Engine Light had come on I had to take it to the dealer for one of the recalls. I had them check it out and they couldn't find anything wrong either so they, too, just reset it - at a cost of over $100! I have had that light and the "Increased emissions" light come on and eventually go away of its own.

More recently, I got in the car, started it up and get the Service Engine Soon light and the "Engine Malfunction" warning. My indy checked it out and it was misfiring as the cylinder one coil was "shot'. They replaced that and all of my spark plugs and $500 later the car is running great again. I don't know if the intermittent problems were early warning signs but when taken to both my indy and the dealer thay had found nothing to repair.

Jaycal3 08-13-2012 06:15 PM

So this message just popped up for my 04 545 on Thursday. I had the codes run today by my BMW mechanic who works out of his house and basically has all the tools, computers, software etc necessary... Anyway, He said I am getting a fault on the secondary Air Pump/Valve System... if I am understanding him correctly, there is a pump that only goes on for a few seconds when the car is started cold. This sends air to the back of the motor where there are 2 valves, one for each head. My pump is working fine. The lines are a plastic/rubber and could be cracked and/or the valves could be gummed up or stuck. He says I have to (or should) replace the valves in the back along with the lines and hopefully this takes care of the issue. Worst case scenario is that the heads need to be opened and cleaned (which has to be sent away)..... mucho dinero....

So for now the codes are cleared (although he says it will most likely come back within 3-4 cold starts) and parts will be ordered for the first and hopefully only part of the job. $600 for parts and labor - the parts alone are about $125-150 for each valve and another $50 or so for the lines... his cost. I am hoping for the best... why couldn't it just be an o2 sensor...

oh wait, this is me and my bad luck!!

idriveE60 10-02-2012 12:55 PM

increased emissions fault.
 
i recently had the increased emissions fault on the idrive console with the dreaded CEL light
, i ran a code seach on OBII it came up with secondary air valve and air pump malfunction
and o2 sensors running lean ,im going to start repairs and hope the CEL stays off .

Hogie 10-02-2012 06:19 PM

Please post some OBDII codes! Increased Emissions can come form a lot of items. Cam sensor, coolant sensors, O2 sensors, Vacuum, on and on.

I am chasing a P0492 Secondary Airbank 2 - Drivers side. It is not the O2 sensor as I replaced it. I have no cracked air lines and vacuum lines test good.

SES never comes on at start-up it usually comes on after 15 minutes of driving or in one case 1 hour. The secondary air pump is not even on at those times. The pump works great and I have received only bank 2 which means bank 1 is working OK - which means airpump and relay are ok.

blksphrwit19 12-03-2012 01:54 PM

whats the average price for a brake flush my service indicator is red

joe110010 12-03-2012 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DD545I (Post 6982564)
Ok, so the 3rd place was a charm :) They just earned a new customer. I found this place through a friend and the guy's name did not ring a bell at first, but it turned out I know the guy the owns the shop. After telling them what i been through, they waive the diagnostic fee. Just as suspected it was a failing thermostat. The first shop was charging me $302. These guys charged me $240 for parts and labor and with the peace of mind that the job was done honestly. I wish BMW of San Diego could of diagnosed the car and given me the results and what cost was going to be. Not that I was gonna have them repair it. I will never go back to them! Anyhow, thanks for the replies. The car is running flawlessly i can tell the difference in performance and no more rough idling. Also, the choke or hiccup that was going on when driving between 30-40 mph is no longer happening.

Was the dealer you went to the one in Kearney Mesa, or a different one? What's the shop you found that was good?

Kalil147 03-10-2013 12:07 PM

Has anyone gotten this code from OBDII? P0507?
At times the code would appear and disappear by itself. Now the check engine light stays on and I get this code: P0507. I already replaced the waterpump, thermostat, alternator, and battery prior to the code. I cleaned the mass airflow sensor, I checked the crankcase valves and they look new (no bends, no tears).

Symtoms: Car jerks at times, sometimes a rough idle, check engine comes on, and goes away at times, now the check engine doesnt go away. Code P0507. What should I replace? Should I replace the CCV even though they look ok?

Any suggestions?

pjinca 03-10-2013 12:34 PM

Try this: http://forums.5series.net/diy-do-you...no-more-85337/

mgunner42 03-21-2013 05:19 PM

just got excessive emission code on my 2004 545i and when i hooked up code reader said it was thermostat with coolant not reaching desired temp so looks like i am gonna be replacing only a thermostat if i am lucky.

bimmerfan52 03-22-2013 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgunner42 (Post 7461549)
just got excessive emission code on my 2004 545i and when i hooked up code reader said it was thermostat with coolant not reaching desired temp so looks like i am gonna be replacing only a thermostat if i am lucky.

Read your fault code - if P0128 then pull off the harness on the thermostat and measure the resistance across the two conductors in the connector in the thermostat. Should read around 16ohms. If it reads 1 your thermostat heater coil is open (failed) and replacing the thermostat will correct your problem.

bmwrulez 03-24-2013 07:08 AM

Thanks for the info on testing the thermostat. Found out i replaced a good thermostat. :mad: Oh well. But, does the same process apply for testing ohms on water pump? I'm getting a 1 when testing.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Bimmer App


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