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-   -   75,000 miles report and front brake job pics (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=438912)

X3-terrestrial 03-07-2010 09:34 AM

75,000 miles report and front brake job pics
 
I bought my 2005 X3 on August of 2008 with 42,000 miles; it is a Premium package, with beautiful Terracotta Montana Leather seats, and some options like heated seats, heated steering wheel and bluethooth.
Just after I got it, I took it in to perform some SIBs (door seals creaking, and sunroof knocking), they also replaced the rear differential bushings, and re-sealed rear vapor barrier three times due to rear foot well floding; all under original warranty.
It came with the Pirelli Scorpions, which I LOVE, and still good (although I anticipate replacement in the next 6 months)

After a year and a half of ownership, and 33,000 miles I couldn't be happier. I have had ZERO problems, and still puts a smile in my face, and never ceases to amaze me.
In November last year, it turned 70k.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...iani/photo.jpg

I had replaced the rear brakes shortly before that, at 68k. I always get BMW parts whenever I can, so I keep the performace at its best, and brake feel and response is a top priority for me.
Now it has 75k miles and it's time to do the front brakes, brake wear sensor tripped last monday, so I went ahead and ordered the parts from Crown BMW (best prices and service online for BMW OE parts)
$350 with shipping for rotors, pads and sensor (50 lbs box), even cheaper than my local dealer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/1.jpg

I'm not good at write ups, but I did take some pictures, and thought I'd share my process here since we don't have this process documented in the X3 forum.

First, of course rise the vehicle and take the tire off :), open brake fluid reservoir cap.

Remove the old brake wear sensor, if is not tripped, carefully pull it from the plastic part (not the wire) and you'll save about $20 bucks)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/1b.jpg

Then pull the anti-rattle spring forward.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/3.jpg

Pull the plastic covers and using a 7mm allen socket and a rachet, take the two caliper bolts out, and reomove caliper with old pads pulling backwards. Place caliper on top, don't let it hang from the hose.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/4.jpg

Then using a breaker bar and a 18mm socket, take the two caliper bracket bolts off. I'm a big fan of PB blaster, I used some and let is stay for a couple of minutes. (This bolts are REALLY tight)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/5.jpg

With a 6mm allen, take the small screw holding the rotor.
Now, using a rubber mallet, smack the rotor from the back turning in each time so it comes lose. Take rotor off. (I used some PB blaster between the rotor and the hub to help losing it)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/7.jpg

Now place your new and shiny rotor and align it with the small guide, where you will put back the screw. Be sure all the lug holes are aligned.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/8.jpg

Then, get your caliper mount bracket and re install it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/9.jpg

Get your new pads ready,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/10.jpg

Compress caliper piston, to accomodate new thicker pads
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/11.jpg

Compressed piston:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/12.jpg

Now insert the inner pad first (the one with the clips),
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/13.jpg

and then the outer pad:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/14.jpg

Place caliper back in place and replace the bolts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/15.jpg

If you are replacing the sensor, disconnect it from the plastic housing, and install the new sensor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...%20job/15b.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...%20job/15c.jpg

Now you are ready to do the other side, following the same procedure (excluding the sensor part, since sensor is on the passenger side.

Tools used:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/16.jpg

Recycle your old parts:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/17.jpg

Some notes:
-To RESET the light in the dash, just pump the brakes and turn the key to position II (all dash lights ON without starting the car) and leave it there for 30 to 60 seconds, it should turn off by itself.
-Since the OE rotors come compleatly coated from factory, it will take several brake applications for the coat to go away from the braking surface. You may hear a slight grinding noise the first few brake applications, this is normal.
-Brake dust should decrease considerably, I noticed this when I did the rear brakes, it looks like the more wear the pads have, the more dust they release.
-It took me about 30 minutes average per side, (passenger side took a little longer due to the sensor.)
-Feel free to ask an questions.

codog2 03-07-2010 02:54 PM

Great write up - thanks for the info. You forgot the fun part - bedding the brakes :)

One questions though. Where exactly does the sensor wire plug into the car. I had the wheel of once and tried following it and could not find the end (can't remember if it was the from or rear tire)?

Did you check the thickness of the rotor, or did you just decide to replace them anyway? Any problems taking the rotor retaining bolt out. I'll have to bookmark this one -I'm about 10k miles from where you are.

Big W 03-07-2010 03:36 PM

greatjob with the brakes, i have 2 questions though:
1- shouldn't you have pressed on the brake pedal with the car off to release any unnecessary pressure in the system?

2- ain't you better off decompressing the caliper piston with the piston side old pad in place?

SpartanGA 03-07-2010 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big W (Post 4997187)
2- ain't you better off decompressing the caliper piston with the piston side old pad in place?


I like this idea.

What about the anti-squeak lube that goes on the back of the pads?

kenza 03-07-2010 05:30 PM

Great DIY, thanks!

cubed 03-07-2010 06:02 PM

--just amazed that you did that. And it took you 30 minutes. It would take me 30 minutes just to get the wheel off....

AzNMpower32 03-07-2010 07:31 PM

Sooooo complicated (for a non-handy man like me)..........looks like something I might ask someone else to do.

minicrazy592 03-07-2010 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzNMpower32 (Post 4997816)
Sooooo complicated (for a non-handy man like me)..........looks like something I might ask someone else to do.

Says he who wired in rear fogs. :p

humbertob 03-07-2010 09:41 PM

Nice write-up X3-terrestrial ! I'll use it in a couple of miles more for sure. My front pads are dusty as hell lately, so I think they will need to be replaced soon ! Thanks for your contribution for this BMW community ! God Bless you !

X3-terrestrial 03-08-2010 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codog2 (Post 4997089)
Great write up - thanks for the info. You forgot the fun part - bedding the brakes :)

One questions though. Where exactly does the sensor wire plug into the car. I had the wheel of once and tried following it and could not find the end (can't remember if it was the from or rear tire)?

Did you check the thickness of the rotor, or did you just decide to replace them anyway? Any problems taking the rotor retaining bolt out. I'll have to bookmark this one -I'm about 10k miles from where you are.

Thanks man. i didn't mention the bedding since it's optional, some recommend, some don't. The instruction sheet that came with the pads says, "don't make any violent braking for at least 150 miles" (I still bedded them...:angel:)
There's a little black plastic box attached to the wheel well, behind the strut tower, you just unsnap the clips and pull it open, there's two connectors inside just follow the wire for the right connector. Must have been a rear tire you had off, since that bow is hidden somewhere. (Ididn't replace the sensor when I did the rear brakes)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big W (Post 4997187)
greatjob with the brakes, i have 2 questions though:
1- shouldn't you have pressed on the brake pedal with the car off to release any unnecessary pressure in the system?

2- ain't you better off decompressing the caliper piston with the piston side old pad in place?

Thanks.
1-I could have, yes. But I never have any problems if I don't.
2-Yes, that's a good suggestion. I guess I got too anxious removing the old pads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smithsonga (Post 4997344)
I like this idea.

What about the anti-squeak lube that goes on the back of the pads?

I don't use it-personal preference. I have never had squeaking problems whith OE pads. I also never found traces of lube when removing them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenza (Post 4997461)
Great DIY, thanks!

You're welcome :thumbup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubed (Post 4997596)
--just amazed that you did that. And it took you 30 minutes. It would take me 30 minutes just to get the wheel off....

:rofl: Well, 30 minutes PER side... but I've done it multiple times, on different cars so I guess one gets faster with practice! :thumbup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by minicrazy592 (Post 4998102)
Says he who wired in rear fogs. :p

I was gonna say exactly the same thing! And AZN...it's no so complicated, just think how much $$$ you'd save and what you can do with it and you'll be under your car doing your brakes! lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by humbertob (Post 4998115)
Nice write-up X3-terrestrial ! I'll use it in a couple of miles more for sure. My front pads are dusty as hell lately, so I think they will need to be replaced soon ! Thanks for your contribution for this BMW community ! God Bless you !

Gracias Humberto :)

X3-terrestrial 03-08-2010 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codog2 (Post 4997089)
Great write up - thanks for the info. You forgot the fun part - bedding the brakes :)

One questions though. Where exactly does the sensor wire plug into the car. I had the wheel of once and tried following it and could not find the end (can't remember if it was the from or rear tire)?

Did you check the thickness of the rotor, or did you just decide to replace them anyway? Any problems taking the rotor retaining bolt out. I'll have to bookmark this one -I'm about 10k miles from where you are.

I think I owe you some answers...:)

Regarding the old rotors' thickness, no I didn't check them. I went by previous experiences where the rotors are never thick enough to re-use. BMW rotors usually last about the same than the pads. Feeling the grove around the disc, it was worst than my rear ones, so that was a no-brainer.

The retaining bolt, no problems at all.

enamoured 03-08-2010 09:07 AM

Great write-up X3t. Thank you very much.

lerker 03-12-2010 12:36 PM

Did you have to reset the brake wear indicator light, or did it go out on its own?

madhatch 03-12-2010 03:37 PM

good job nice write up :thumbup:

onodon 03-12-2010 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X3-terrestrial (Post 4996521)
I bought my 2005 X3 on August of 2008 with 42,000 miles; it is a Premium package, with beautiful Terracotta Montana Leather seats, and some options like heated seats, heated steering wheel and bluethooth.
Just after I got it, I took it in to perform some SIBs (door seals creaking, and sunroof knocking), they also replaced the rear differential bushings, and re-sealed rear vapor barrier three times due to rear foot well floding; all under original warranty.
It came with the Pirelli Scorpions, which I LOVE, and still good (although I anticipate replacement in the next 6 months)

After a year and a half of ownership, and 33,000 miles I couldn't be happier. I have had ZERO problems, and still puts a smile in my face, and never ceases to amaze me.
In November last year, it turned 70k.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...iani/photo.jpg

I had replaced the rear brakes shortly before that, at 68k. I always get BMW parts whenever I can, so I keep the performace at its best, and brake feel and response is a top priority for me.
Now it has 75k miles and it's time to do the front brakes, brake wear sensor tripped last monday, so I went ahead and ordered the parts from Crown BMW (best prices and service online for BMW OE parts)
$350 with shipping for rotors, pads and sensor (50 lbs box), even cheaper than my local dealer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/1.jpg

I'm not good at write ups, but I did take some pictures, and thought I'd share my process here since we don't have this process documented in the X3 forum.

First, of course rise the vehicle and take the tire off :), open brake fluid reservoir cap.

Remove the old brake wear sensor, if is not tripped, carefully pull it from the plastic part (not the wire) and you'll save about $20 bucks)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/1b.jpg

Then pull the anti-rattle spring forward.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/3.jpg

Pull the plastic covers and using a 7mm allen socket and a rachet, take the two caliper bolts out, and reomove caliper with old pads pulling backwards. Place caliper on top, don't let it hang from the hose.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/4.jpg

Then using a breaker bar and a 18mm socket, take the two caliper bracket bolts off. I'm a big fan of PB blaster, I used some and let is stay for a couple of minutes. (This bolts are REALLY tight)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/5.jpg

With a 6mm allen, take the small screw holding the rotor.
Now, using a rubber mallet, smack the rotor from the back turning in each time so it comes lose. Take rotor off. (I used some PB blaster between the rotor and the hub to help losing it)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/7.jpg

Now place your new and shiny rotor and align it with the small guide, where you will put back the screw. Be sure all the lug holes are aligned.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/8.jpg

Then, get your caliper mount bracket and re install it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ke%20job/9.jpg

Get your new pads ready,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/10.jpg

Compress caliper piston, to accomodate new thicker pads
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/11.jpg

Compressed piston:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/12.jpg

Now insert the inner pad first (the one with the clips),
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/13.jpg

and then the outer pad:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/14.jpg

Place caliper back in place and replace the bolts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/15.jpg

If you are replacing the sensor, disconnect it from the plastic housing, and install the new sensor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...%20job/15b.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...%20job/15c.jpg

Now you are ready to do the other side, following the same procedure (excluding the sensor part, since sensor is on the passenger side.

Tools used:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/16.jpg

Recycle your old parts:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e%20job/17.jpg

Some notes:
-Since the OE rotors come compleatly coated from factory, it will take several brake applications for the coat to go away from the braking surface. You may hear a slight grinding noise the first few brake applications, this is normal.
-Brake dust should decrease considerably, I noticed this when I did the rear brakes, it looks like the more wear the pads have, the more dust they release.
-It took me about 30 minutes average per side, (passenger side took a little longer due to the sensor.)
-Feel free to ask an questions.

Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and write it up. Nicely done.
This is a keeper.

X3-terrestrial 03-12-2010 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lerker (Post 5011806)
Did you have to reset the brake wear indicator light, or did it go out on its own?

Had to reset it. Just pump the brakes and turn the key to position II (all dash lights ON without starting the car) and leave it there for 30 to 60 seconds, it should turn off by itself

X3-terrestrial 03-12-2010 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onodon (Post 5012680)
Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and write it up. Nicely done.
This is a keeper.

Quote:

Originally Posted by madhatch (Post 5012331)
good job nice write up :thumbup:

Thanks guys. Hopefully more folks start doing the same, so we can have a DIY section! :thumbup:

jdeday 03-14-2010 03:53 PM

Great write up!

What is the remaining thickness of the pads that will trigger the dash light??

Jeff

X3-terrestrial 03-15-2010 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdeday (Post 5017023)
Great write up!

What is the remaining thickness of the pads that will trigger the dash light??

Jeff

Thanks, mine had about 3mm of pad material remaining.

jerry325 06-04-2010 04:54 PM

Thanks, X3-terrestrial! Ordered the parts from oembimmerparts.com and was able to change them in about two hours. I'm not as quick as you, but your instructions are superb! I now know why you wore gloves :).

X3-terrestrial 06-05-2010 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerry325 (Post 5236536)
Thanks, X3-terrestrial! Ordered the parts from oembimmerparts.com and was able to change them in about two hours. I'm not as quick as you, but your instructions are superb! I now know why you wore gloves :).

:thumbup: Good to know this is helping! Hey, two hours isn't bad, first time is always more time consuming, and just get a good pair of mechanics' gloves, they help a lot!

X3emist 06-06-2010 06:46 AM

Can this be added to the DIY post?
 
Although I have never done a brake job, it doesn't look that hard if you have all the tools and stuff you need. This must be a serious money maker for BMW shops. They typically charge around $1100 for a 4 wheel brake job that takes them probably 1-2 hours and a couple hundred in parts (their cost) maybe.

I am going to have to try this myself next time.

PeteC 06-06-2010 09:30 AM

Thanks for the great writeup!

I've not done it for the BMW's (both have less than 40 K right now) but for another vehicle of mine. Most of the time I spent was removing the rotors. This vehicle though had 70K and the rotors had binded a bit.

The whole process though is one of patience taking your time. Easier for a shop to do when lifting the entire vehicle versus the DIY one wheel at a time; but the satisfaction of the DIY is what counts.

SpartanGA 06-07-2010 07:53 AM

Great write up. Looks just like my 550i as well. I did the rears and the calipers and rotor connections and procedures are identical.

to me the most daunting is removing the caliper bracket (the 18mm VERY tight bolt) and the rotors. I only changed the rear pads on my 550i, not rotors.

X3emist 06-07-2010 12:36 PM

Torque specs?
 
What are the torque specs when reinstalling the caliper bolts?


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