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06 750 Transmission problem?
Hello all, been doing a lot of searchon on my problem with no success and was hoping to get some help here. I have an 2006 750i. I a hard to describe slip, tug, jerk,,, its slight but noticable. This happens mostly when I accellerate over 60mph, then come down to around 50 and slowly accellerate through 60 again, up a hill seems a bit worse. Also just started happening a bit when I start off and hit around 40. Not sure if the clutch is slipping of the abs is engaging or what? No lights come on and it seems when I accelerate quickly or get on it, its fine.... Anyone experienc anything like this?
Thanks for your help... |
different transmission problem
I have a transmission problem, although sounds different than yours. Periodically if I accelerate after nearly stopping (i.e. at a yield, or at a stop sign), the trannie kicks in with a bang, then drives fine. Also, I have twice had the unnerving experience of putting it into drive, only to have the transmission not do anything (the engine just revs, or you can only go in reverse) except set off a transmission malfunction alert. Fortunately after turning the car off and then starting it up again it works fine, which makes me think it's a computer issue. I brought it in to have BMW look at it, and of course neither problem occurred during the test drive with the mechanic, and nothing showed up on the fault codes. Go figure.
I think I might also sometimes experience what you're describing, but as you noted it goes away if you goose the gas a bit, so I've just figured the computer isn't downshifting enough for my taste. |
Do you get any messages come up?
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As far as it not going into D, I do have a tip on how to replicate it! Find a parking garage and park in a spot on an incline. Then put the car in reverse and reverse out like normal. Then turn the wheel all the way and shift into D, let of the brake and mash the gas (not so you run off the garage). This will cause the problem to show it's ugly head and not go anywhere. |
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I have the same issue as the original tread. It pulls and tugs slightly as I accelerate gradually. I get a "limited transmission failure" indication. I took the car to a BMW 3rd party specilaist and told me that it could be the torque converter or the tranny. They said if you do the torque converter you could be wasting your money. They also said they don't rebuild tranny's for these beamers. $7600 out the door for new tranny job.
The dealership wants $180 to do the software uopgrade. What is the "gas pedal trick as mentioned by CSMEANCE???? Honestly, I don't want to pay for a new tranny if I don't have to. The 2003 745LI car with 125,000 miles is only worth around $20,000 for crying out loud. Help? anyone? |
What csmenace is talking about is to reset the transmission adaption. Basically, the transmission adapts to your driving style and this trick resets it. Here's how to do it
With the car off get in, don't put your foot on the brake. Press the start button once. Press and hold down the accelerator pedal for 25 seconds. Start as usual. Have you ever changed your transmission fluid? or even the infamous sealing sleeve? |
gotcha! thanks. umm yes i replaced it 3 months ago but never the sleeve.
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i was experiencing the same problems and had the mechatronic sealing sleeve replaced also the adapter replaced and ignition coils replaced...problem fixed and no tranny faults driving smoothly now
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I just had my mechatronic sealing sleeve replaced too when i was getting P,D,N D1,D2 faults. basically my 7 wouldn't go into D or R it just stayed in P. The dealer replaced this sleeve,after I had it towed to them:( and she's ridin again but its my first day,i'll post back if the problem comes back.:thumbup:
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has anyone heard of a egs code 4f4b - gear malfunction code?
my 2002 745i is now showing that code and wondering if it is a blown trans when it drives. this is silly. what is the costof trans from the dealer? ken |
above $7500. i had a BMW auto shop wuote me a out the door price. they don't rebuild them. they drop the old and slap a new factory spec one in. I would say between $8000 to $10,000. just a guess though. Now, that is silly!
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tranny cost
they replaced mine under warranty and the bill was about 12k new tranny labor and 1800 bucks for fluid
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wow! u r good. how did you find my old post? I sure hope you are right. not sure where i can find DIY but someone put in my post how to do it. I guess I can follow it.You are a life saver Mr. CS. Thanks bud! :-)
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oh did i mention that i have a "check engine soon" light that came on yesterday? I don't one of those fault readers either. damn. what else can go wrong?
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Here's the link to the DIY, I hope its the problem because it makes sense, low fluid means that it can't lubricate itself properly for operation thus the jerkiness from the metal on metal contact or whatever surfaces there are! http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502985 Quote:
I'm thinking its the O2 sensors that are probably tripping the code since they are supposed to be replaced around 100K miles. |
yes the yellow check engine light! I ahve 126,000 miles. I only see Brake fluid shown in red which I haven't flushed. no CEL or anyhting else but a bunch of green lit status on oil, coolant, etc.
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Transmission Issues
I was reading through the tranny issues looking for clues and came upon this. My symtoms are same as Crash (not Myeagleputt). I can avoid the "bang" shift into 1st gear by stopping completely for a full beat, then I'll feel the shift into 1st. A near stop or "California" stop will cause a jolt. All upshifts are smooth and fluid under normal or heavy acceleration. Only driving concern is if I back off the accelerator after a couple seconds of heavy throttle, then get back on it: the transmission doesn't decide which gear it wants until you're on the throttle, and "bang", it slams into the gear it wants (it's the correct gear, but the jolt is harsh).
I also get the occaissional "fault" when it won't go into park or into drive when the car is stopped, but just like Crash's car, I turn off and restart the car and it resets itself. The car is at the dealership now and I'm awaiting the verdict. The SA is pounding away on my extended warranty company (Consumer Direct Warranty Services), whose performance has been abyssmal. I will share the results for those of you with similar issues. As I see your posts (Myeagleputt and Crash) are approx. 6 mos. old, are issues now resolved? how? and how much $?? thanks! |
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only way to tell is to drop ur tranny and have it checked or low fluid getting mine fixed next week will post |
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for 8gs rather then pay 2600 for a rebuiled |
yesterday I opened the door and even pushed the button to park, I saw it go into park!
I walked over about 8 feet to key in my garage code when out of the corner of my eye i catch the car coming at me and my 4 year old. Car eventually stopped when it crunched my grge door. I get in the car and the gear symbol is lit...car is in Neutral and transmission failure code is on! Now it goes into gear for a few seconds then automatically goes into neutral...so I can hit the gas and start moving before it clunks and disengages . I'm talking about the parking shift position not the parking brake..consider this..none of my regular analog automatic transmission vehicles magically change gears from park to neutral even if the transmission does fail. CAR SHOULD NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES GO FROM PARK TO NEUTRAL ON ITS OWN! One day you'll forget the parking brake and you'll find your car ghost riding without you...and hopefully it doesn't kill someone or destroy property. I would like to know, since it happened out of the blue without warning...If anyone knows how to clear the fault to replicate it? I'm afraid to disconnect the battery since that ill also erase my key fob? So I been told... Apparently, NHTSA has had several complaints and are investigating this...but in the meantime I'm dead in the water and I refuse to pay $10k for a new transmission on a car with this few miles without an explanation at least of why someone would be stupid enough to make this a possible default setting. |
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