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-   -   Replacing exhaust manifold? (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506140)

markobb 12-16-2010 08:29 AM

Replacing exhaust manifold?
 
Can i replace exhaust manifold in my garage or this can only do a mechanic?

For Z3 coupe.

If someone has pictures how to do it, i will be most gratefull.

khammack 12-16-2010 09:27 AM

Go to http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/

Start with the E36 to select your model of Z3.

The manifold is under the engine section.

It looks like a good review of what you would need to do.

markobb 12-16-2010 09:46 AM

I see only two pictures, that doesnt help me with question if i can replace manifold myselfe or this is a job explicite for mechanic?

khammack 12-16-2010 10:09 AM

Since you didn't post which car you have and you have not stated you abilities, it may be hard to be specific. I have not done this my self, but it doesn't look that hard. Maybe someone who has done this work will post.

Randy Forbes 12-16-2010 11:39 AM

I've replaced the exhaust manifolds on S-52 & S-54 M Rdstrs/Coupes, and on the Z3 2.8 (M-54) Coupe.

It's doable, but patience and a full toolbox* is required.



* you'll need every configuration of an 11mm socket, and 11mm wrench that you can imagine, and an assortment of extensions, in BOTH 1/4" & 3/8" drive. There are even instances of me making wrenches to fit the job. This is just the manifold to head interface, the rest of the job is pretty straight forward. On some cars, I am left wondering if it wouldn't have been quicker, let alone easier, to have removed the engine...

Randy Forbes 12-16-2010 12:00 PM

As the manifold studs using a locknut (copper plated steel) and the portion of the stud sticking out beyond the nut rusts easily, the studs almost always come out with the nuts__this can be a blessing!

It is BY FAR easier and cheaper to replace the studs and nuts (retail prices are .35 & .78 CENTS each). Buy these ahead of time, depending on the number you need__either eighteen (18) or twenty-four (24), for the 6-cylinder engines I've worked on.

A couple of more recent jobs:

http://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album199?page=6 and http://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album217?page=38


Like I was saying...

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1024.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1022.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1028.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1029.sized.jpg

I put this set on with the engine out of the car__distinct advantage (after TMS saw the picture,they asked to use it on their website)

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag..._on_s52_lg.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album217/IMG_5467.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album217/IMG_5488.sized.jpg

markobb 12-17-2010 12:17 AM

I have 2.8 L engine.

I am asking if i can replace manifold without puting the engine out of the car?

bob lindquist 12-17-2010 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markobb (Post 5702978)
i have 2.8 l engine.

I am asking if i can replace manifold without puting the engine out of the car?


yes

bob lindquist 12-17-2010 03:50 AM

I really want to do this mod.

markobb 12-17-2010 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob lindquist (Post 5703099)
yes

Realy, im thinking that is very litle place to unscrew screws, and than its possible that screws are rusted becouse water and high temperatures.

Does anybody have step by step guide to do this replacing?

Randy Forbes 12-17-2010 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markobb (Post 5703687)
Realy, im thinking that is very litle place to unscrew screws, and than its possible that screws are rusted becouse water and high temperatures.

Does anybody have step by step guide to do this replacing?

The studs in the cylinder will come out pretty easy; this, and replacing the studs and nuts has already been covered ^

For (MUCH) greater access, I remove the sheetmetal barrier around the electrical box. This takes about 10-15 minutes to do (and a similar amount of time to replace) but it is well worth the trouble. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have scraped up arms, but at least you'll be able to get your arm in there.

Of all the sets I've replaced, and the times they needed to come off so the head could be pulled, only once (1) was the engine out of the car.

I don't do write ups, I'll refer you to the BMW TIS (workshop manual) and pictures; you're either capable and willing to try, or you aren't.

These are pictures of a 2.8 (Coupe) that had to have the head come off; yours should be nearly identical:

This shows access with sheetmetal barrier removed; manifolds still in place

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3908.sized.jpg

Manifolds off

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3917.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3918.sized.jpg

The car's owner, Bill, removing head bolts

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3928.sized.jpg

Plenty of room now!

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3929.sized.jpg

Spot-facing the sealing surface for #5 sparkplug (!)

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3966.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3967.sized.jpg

Bob: you can do this. The TMS Shorty Headers fit very well, and only a couple of the nuts (1 in particular) is a pain to get started. If I was in Florida...

bob lindquist 12-23-2010 08:51 AM

Coating
 
Randy,

Were these headers sent out for some type of High Temp Coating? :dunno:






http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1029.sized.jpg

I put this set on with the engine out of the car__distinct advantage (after TMS saw the picture,they asked to use it on their website)

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag..._on_s52_lg.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album217/IMG_5467.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album217/IMG_5488.sized.jpg[/quote]

bob lindquist 12-23-2010 08:52 AM

Randy, what was this picture about?

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1024.sized.jpg







I

Mpire 12-23-2010 09:39 AM

I have the swivel head craftsman wrenches that make it a much easier task.

Swapped out my headers in about a week, working a max of 30 minutes a night start to finish.

You will need new copper nuts, as they are one time use (I think)

Really not all that challenging if you go slow and take your time.


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4886669_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1361340_n.jpg

Randy Forbes 12-23-2010 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob lindquist (Post 5717413)
Randy,

Were these headers sent out for some type of High Temp Coating? :dunno:

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1029.sized.jpg

Turner supplies them already coated; pretty durable finish, as they weren't scuffed during the install.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob lindquist (Post 5717417)
Randy, what was this picture about?

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1024.sized.jpg

Showing off. Instead of using a torch to heat up and bend tools, I can now do the with this:

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_1025.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album199/IMG_0971.sized.jpg

KenTenn 12-23-2010 04:53 PM

Is this pretty much just swapping stock manifold for headers (other than flange thickness issue)? Any negatives? Will these headers run hotter thru the exhaust and cat? Will this cause either of them to have to be replaced sooner? O2 sensers? Would this void a CPO warranty? I'm tempted. Is the difficulty level about the same as doing a valve adjustment?

Mpire 12-23-2010 08:51 PM

Well, since your existing cats are in the headers, you are essentially deleting the cats.

Otherwise there wouldn't be much point.

KenTenn 12-23-2010 11:27 PM

How does that affect emissions testing?

Mpire 12-24-2010 05:22 AM

Unless you bolt in the euro cats to go with the euro headers, then you will definitely fail emissions.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-a...78893_4340.jpg

Randy Forbes 12-24-2010 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KenTenn (Post 5718380)
Is the difficulty level about the same as doing a valve adjustment?

Checking/adjusting the valves is much easier.

It's been a while since I looked (at PAL's car) but you have more clearance on the side of the engine, so it may not be quite as bad on the Z4, as it is on the Z3.

The scrapes/scratches on my arms are only now healed... :mad:

KenTenn 12-24-2010 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mpire (Post 5719206)
Unless you bolt in the euro cats to go with the euro headers, then you will definitely fail emissions.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-a...78893_4340.jpg

I thought the "ebay header thing" sounded too good to be true. I was under the impression that all I had to do was unbolt the existing exhaust manifold, slide the headers in, move the O2 sensers, bolt everything together, and voila! Zoom zoom!

Should have known I couldn't get off with just $100-200...what WAS I thinking?

Mpire 12-25-2010 04:35 AM

Well, you CAN do that, you will just throw an engine code.

Or you can get the race shark software...

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag...injector_1.jpg

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...CT_ID=I4S54KAO

markobb 01-10-2011 10:25 AM

Quote:

The studs in the cylinder will come out pretty easy; this, and replacing the studs and nuts has already been covered ^

For (MUCH) greater access, I remove the sheetmetal barrier around the electrical box. This takes about 10-15 minutes to do (and a similar amount of time to replace) but it is well worth the trouble. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have scraped up arms, but at least you'll be able to get your arm in there.

Of all the sets I've replaced, and the times they needed to come off so the head could be pulled, only once (1) was the engine out of the car.

I don't do write ups, I'll refer you to the BMW TIS (workshop manual) and pictures; you're either capable and willing to try, or you aren't.

These are pictures of a 2.8 (Coupe) that had to have the head come off; yours should be nearly identical:

This shows access with sheetmetal barrier removed; manifolds still in place

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3908.sized.jpg

Manifolds off

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3917.sized.jpg

http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3918.sized.jpg

@Randy: So i MUST remove the sheetmetal barrier around the electrical box to unbolt manifold or i can do this without removing sheetmetal?

In your procedure you remove plastic cover, than the coils to get to this on the picture?

Where is electrical box?
http://www.rfdm.com/albums/album216/IMG_3908.sized.jpg


How can i get to the bottom of the manifold to unscrew catalyst??


Thanks

markobb 01-17-2011 06:29 AM

Anybody?

Mpire 01-17-2011 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markobb (Post 5777174)
Anybody?

Yeah, we don't know what you are asking. Please be more specific.

There is a heat shield, simple sheet-metal, that can be removed by pulling off a few nuts. Not too hard, gives more access from the top.

You can also get to it from the bottom, its tight from both angles.

Nuts are oval shaped one time use copper nuts, get new ones before you start.

You do not have to jack the motor up to get the headers on or off, unless you buy Supersprint Stepped Headers, which I think are only available for the S54.

If you have a car manufactured BEFORE 1999:

You have the exact same block and heads an and E36 M3 96-99 or 1998-2000 M Roadster, bore, stroke, software, and cams are different, but otherwise all the same after-market parts apply.

Single Vanos, plentiful after-market options.

You can get or make O2 simulators to delete the cats.

If you have a car manufactured after 1999:

You have the M52 Technical Update.

Essentially you have the same block but with the M54 style heads. Double Vanos, more restrictive software for tuning, and your pretty much an orphan as far as the aftermarket goes.

Cats are in the headers, so you will have to figure out how to solve the lack of cats if you swap in headers, or you will have to get creative.

There are no O2 simulators that work for this engine, if there are, I would like to buy some so please correct me!


If this doesn't answer your questions, then you need to post pictures of your motor so we can tell you what you have and attempt to advise you.


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