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BMR_LVR 04-22-2011 09:36 PM

EWS Delete / Bypass and no-start problem finally solved - VERY LONG read
Even though this relates to an E36, I’m posting it here because it has the same M50 engine and electrical system as the E34.

This is the story of a BMW lover’s journey through diagnosing and fixing a no-start situation. First of all, I want to express a sincere thanks to a fellow forum member, Roberto Baggio (aka RobertoBaggio20). I would have neither had the courage to do this nor would I have had the information necessary had it not been for Roberto. He found a link to a fellow that had information about bypassing the security system on the car. If I did not have this, I would not have been successful. So again, thanks Roberto.

My E36 would not start about 6 months or so ago. I was in no hurry to fix it as this is a spare car. I probably would have been done a lot sooner, but I had to have knee surgery in early December and that really slowed me down.

Now, on to the story. I have a 1995 325is with 236K miles. This has been a very good car and has only had about 4 no-start situations. The first was a failed fuel pump. This was before I joined the forum or knew anything about working on BMW’s. I had it towed to a mechanic. He diagnosed it and replaced the fuel pump for around $400. I had an old 85 Mercedes 300D that I was not a bit afraid to work on. I would adjust valves and service the transmission etc., but I was always intimidated about working on the BMW’s because (I’m almost embarrassed to say this) I could not even find the darn spark plugs! I know, it was silly, but all I would do at first is change the oil. Anyway, I found Bimmerfest and as the saying goes, the rest is history.

The second no-start situation was a bad fuel pump relay. By this time I had found out about the Bentley manual and was well on my way to becoming a much more savvy DIY’er. I removed the air filter and squirted a little starting fluid into the intake. It started for a couple of seconds, but would not respond to the throttle. I made a fused jumper with an on/off toggle switch per Bentley instructions and jumped the fuel pump relay socket and the car started and would run just fine. I replaced the fuel pump relay and all was well.

The third no-start situation was about 1 ½ years ago. At that time, I had followed my usual daily routine and turned the key to crank it, but I “stuffed it”, meaning I didn’t let it fully catch before I let go of the key. After that, it would not crank. The first thing I checked was the fuel pump relay, but that was not the problem. I went through the usual routine of checking things, but it just wouldn’t crank. I had no fault codes stored in the ECM. I messed with it for about an hour but it still would not crank. On the last try, it coughed a little and finally cranked. The frustrating part was, I never did figure out what caused it to not crank.

I continued to drive the car for another year with no problems. Then one day (a couple of days after a rather heavy snow fall), the wife got in the car and it wouldn’t crank. It would turn over, but it would not catch and run. So, I started the usual process of diagnosing it thinking that it would be an easy fix. I was so, so wrong. First, I checked to see if the fuel pump was working. I pulled the seat and confirmed that I had voltage at the connector. I plugged it back in and proceeded to remove the fuel pump relay and use my jumper that I had made per Bentley specs. Sure enough, the fuel pump purred like a kitten. So, while the fuel pump relay was jumped, I tried to crank the car. It still would not start. Now I was thinking that I may have an electrical problem. However, to try to rule out a fuel delivery problem, I got out my trusty can of starting fluid. Yes, I know, one should not use much when attempting to start the car. It still would not crank with the starting fluid. Now I realized that I had a no-spark situation. I had never dealt with this on a modern car. I started doing research on the forum and Google. Next, again wanting to do the easiest thing, I put in a new DME relay and a new fuel pump relay. Still it would not crank. I checked the relay sockets (once I learned how to pull them up to get to the bottom of them) and they all seemed fine and had no corrosion.

I remembered a problem about E36’s having a “wet DME” problem. So, I opened up the DME compartment, but it was dry as a bone. Next I suspected a failed crankshaft position sensor (CPS). I checked the resistance and it was about 500 ohms. Well, Bentley states on page 120-6 that it should be at 1280 + or – 10% (BTW, I found out later that it was a misprint in Bentley. It should have said 540 + or – 10%). So, I was way off or so I thought. I thought, okay, that must be it. I found a used one at a junk yard and bought it. When I got it home, it too was at about 500 ohms. I thought, great, now I have two bad CPS’s. But it just seemed to defy the odds that two CPS sensors would be bad. So, I tested the one on my E34. What do you know? It too was about 500 ohms. I thought, well, if I put the used one on it and it doesn’t crank, then I still can’t say for sure that the CPS is not the problem because I can’t be sure if the used one is good or not. So, I took the CPS off of my E34 (because I knew it was good since that car was running) and put it on the E36. It still would not crank. I put the original CPS back on and returned the borrowed CPS back on the E34 and it promptly fired up (remember this part for how it plays out later in the story).

Now I was becoming really frustrated and felt that I was reaching the limit of my knowledge and ability regarding diagnosing the problem. Just for kicks and giggles, I replaced the plugs. After all, they had (ahemm, clears throat) at minimum, 138K miles on them, but obviously they would not all fail at once. I decided to check the coils. They were getting proper voltage and had resistance within specs per the Bentley. But, I had no spark with trying to crank the car.

At this point, I basically narrowed the problem down to the DME. That’s usually not a big deal right? I mean, after all, you just go to a junk yard and get one or buy one on Craig’s List. So, I started my research. Well, I was not too happy on what I was finding. You see, the 1995 325 is a unique car in that it is the first year that BMW put the EWS II security system on the car. This is a system whereby there is a very small chip in the ignition key. There is a EWS antenna ring around the ignition tumbler. The DME is paired with the key and the EWS module. When the proper key is inserted, the antenna receives the signal from the key chip, it is sent to a unit that amplifies the signal. That signal is read by the EWS module which communicates with the DME and gives the go ahead to allow the car to crank. If the incorrect key is used, then, when the key is turned, all of the gauges and such will come on, but the engine will not turn over. This was confirmed when a while back, I had the very early stages of the dreaded “key spin”. I tackled it as soon as I had the first signs of it so it was not bad to do. Anyway, I replaced my ignition tumbler and forgot to install the antenna ring. I tried to start the car and nothing. I just about left a big brown spot in my underwear until I realized that I forgot to re-install the antenna ring. Once I did, the car cranked fine. Whew!

Now, back to the story. The DME that is in my car is what is called a “silver label” DME. It is specifically for the EWS II car. So in researching, I found out that my options were pretty limited and the cost of repair was going to be quite a bit. A re-manufactured silver label DME was going to be almost $1200 from the dealer and on top of that, I would have to have the car towed to the dealer to have the new DME “re-coded” or “re-synched” to my specific car. Needless to say, I did not want to chunk down this kind of money on a 15 year old car with 236K miles. So I also looked into having mine re-built. I came across these guys at They will test the DME for $50. If there is no problem with it, they send it back to you after you pay the $50. If it is bad (assuming it is not massive damage from a fire, drowning or severe electrical shorting), they will repair it for $475. This was certainly better than the approximate $1300-$1400 it would cost with a remanufactured one (taking in to account the tow and labor at the BMW dealership for re-synching it).

Here is where Roberto really came in to the picture. He was kind enough to research this problem for me (without me asking him to do so BTW). He came across this fellow’s blog. His name is Richard. Here is the link: He communicated back with Roberto and advised that a standard “red label” 413 DME (for the 1992-1994 M50) would work if the EWS system is bypassed. Roberto forwarded the information to me. I started my search for a red label DME. I am located right between two gold mines in the form of Pull-A-Part junkyards. There prices are unbelievable. A DME would cost about $30. Only problem is, people know this and the on of the very first things that gets snagged is the DME. So I constantly searched for a red label DME. One day they put a VANOS M50 E34 on the lot. I got there the very same day, but the DME was gone. I also searched Craig’s List. I finally found one from a 93 325i and got it for $60.

I had to remove the glove box to access the EWS module. Bentley leaves out one important information about a bolt that holds the glove box assembly in the car. It is a 10 mm bolt that is located above the glove box light. Pop the light out and you have easy access to it. Locating the EWS module was the next challenge as there are several modules in there. The instructions given were to cut wire #4 (green) and then cut and bridge wires #1 and #3. The wires are not labeled this way so it was a challenge to figure this out as well. With the assistance of the wiring diagram in the Bentley manual, I was able to determine which module it was (it was the module in the lowest bracket with a yellow connector) and locate which wire to cut (the green #4 wire is the very small, solid colored wire), and which wires to cut and bridge (#1 is black/yellow and #3 is green/black).

I consider myself an electrical moron, so I have to tell you, I was scared to start cutting and bridging wires. So, I cut the green wire #4 and capped off each end. I then cut wire #1 and #3 at the EWS module and spliced them together. I put the red label DME in the car. I turned the key and the dashboard lit up as usual, but the engine would not turn over. Remember me mentioning how the EWS was activated when I forgot to put the antenna ring back on the ignition tumbler when I replaced it? Well, I knew that the EWS was being activated because it was the exact same scenario. So, I also spliced wires #1 and #3 on the DME side as well. Again I tried to crank the car. This time the engine would turn over, but it still had no spark and would not crank. Now I was really ticked off and thinking that I had no chance of fixing this thing. So, I just put the wiring back to as it was from the factory and I put the silver label DME back in it with the intention of having it towed to my mechanic.

By chance, I thought I would get a used camshaft position sensor and replace it, but to my understanding, a bad camshaft position sensor will not cause a no-start situation, but can cause the car to run poorly. So, off I went to the Pull-A-Part and found an M50 that had had the intake removed, so it was a breeze to pull it. Due to weather and issues with my knee, I didn’t work on the car for a couple of weeks. The other day it was nice out and my wife was doing some things and I commented to her that I had just decided to have it towed to my mechanic. My fear is that he would spend a couple of hours (at $80/hr.) just to diagnose it and he may well say it had a bad DME. So I would then have to send the DME off for a $475 repair. As I told her this, she said “what about that wire you bought?” I asked “what wire?” She said “you know, the one you bought at the junk yard the other weekend.” I was like “oh yeah, the camshaft position sensor I pulled at the Pull-A-Part”. So, I opened the hood and began trying to figure out how I was going to get the VANOS off so I could remove the sensor. As I looked around, I saw an electrical connector under the intake manifold that was not connected.

I traced it and found that it was the connector for the CPS. Remember earlier in the story when I took the CPS off of my E34 and put it on the E36 and it still would not crank? Earlier when I was swopping the CPS from my E34 to the E36 and it didn’t work, I proceed to take the CPS back off and put it back on the E34. I bolted the original E36 CPS back on the front of the engine at the toothed wheel. Well guess what, I didn’t re-connect the sensor (doh). I was like, “well crap, that explains why it wouldn’t crank with the red label DME”. Just for kicks and giggles, I re-connected it and tried to crank the car with everything stock (silver label and stock EWS wiring set up). But just as expected, it would not crank and seemed to have no spark. So, I proceeded to do the red label DME swap again. I put it back in and re-did the EWS delete wiring bypass.

I tried to crank it again. It would not crank, but sounded like it wanted to. So I tried a one second squirt of the starting fluid in the intake at the MAF. I tried again and still no start, but it sounded like it wanted to crank even more. So, what the heck, if one second is good, two seconds should be better right? So, I gave a good two second squirt and tried again.

It did not crank up immediately, but just like something winding up, IT FINALLY CAUGHT !!!!. It ran rough for a couple of seconds, then smoothed right out. I didn’t let it run long because I had not yet filled and bled the coolant system. I shut it off and waited about 5 minutes. I tried it again and it cranked up immediately. So in the end, it was the DME that was bad and the red label DME swap into an EWS II equipped car does indeed work. After about 6 months, the lifters were noisy on start up. This was due to leak down of the lifters over time. Also, the VANOS was rather noisy. After bleeding the coolant system and making sure everything was okay, I took it out for a short ride (7-8 miles) without revving beyond 2500 PRM. By this time the lifters had pumped back up and the VANOS quieted down.

Here are some morals of the story that I learned:

If you have the desire, persistence, a good repair manual, some decent tools and some basic mechanical skills, you can do most anything on the BMW’s (well, at least the older models like E36, E34 and earlier). Realize however that you may have limitations on your abilities. I’m not at the point that I would feel comfortable doing and R&R on a head gasket or head. Sometimes you just have to take it to a mechanic.

Don’t be afraid to ask for help from other BMW owners who may have experienced the same problem. Listen to their input. This forum has some of the nicest and most knowledgeable people around.

Be willing to do research on the problem. Remember, Google is your friend. Search it and search this forum as a lot of the problems have been experienced before.

Don’t just throw parts at a problem. Try to be methodical in your approach. Think things through thoroughly. If you get stumped or frustrated, take a step away from the vehicle (sounds like you’re being arrested lol) and take a break. Take time to “re-charge” your batteries so to speak. Sometimes during that break a moment of clarity will come that will point you to the problem.

Always double check your work. Had I realized that I failed to re-connect the electrical connection side of the CPS, I would have had the car running a couple of weeks sooner.

I hope this long winded dissertation has or will help someone who faces a no-start situation.

Best regards,

Radian 04-22-2011 10:34 PM

Wow, nice job Steve! I admire your persistence! Glad you were able to get it back on the road. :thumbup::thumbup:

I really enjoyed the good read; excellent write-up! : popcorn:

psykick5 04-22-2011 10:53 PM

That's a great write up of your problem and I'm sure someone with a similar problem will stumble upon this gold mine of detailed information.

TemporarySanity 04-22-2011 11:07 PM

Awesome!!:thumbup: Good info there. Thanks and congratulations!

ULTIMATEdz 04-23-2011 03:00 AM

im really glad i read this. these problems sound the same as the ones im experiencing right now

robertobaggio20 04-23-2011 07:25 AM

Hi Steve Sir,

Yes it was a saga. Thank you for being open minded enough to try the methods suggested.

Would like to add the following comments.

1. If you feel justified, please add the words " EWS Delete / No-start problem finally solved - VERY LONG read " to your subject header. The heart of this problem's solution was deleting the ews system. This is not obvious from your subject headline and so those searching for it might miss it.

2. Second, I wish to add that once we determined that this was the ECU that was screwed, my first suggestion to Steve sir was to purchase an install an EWS delete chip, off ebay. Such chips uncode the ecu's built in software that demands a check with the EWS system, and also come with a performance enhancing map. So its a two in one solution. It should only cost $40 shipped off ebay from the chippers but at the time we searched for this it wasn't available. Turner MS sold one for like $400 with a 30 day money back guarantee. It is an easy process to swop out the stock chip with a new one.

3. Buying a new EWS delete chip would have still involved purchasing a new DME, but we could then purchase a new silver label dme which would have originally been EWS coded for a different car and which, without the delete chip, would require recoding by the dealer.

4. Steve decided on the red label DME because (a) it was cheaper overall to purchase a red label vanos 325/525 dme and just mess with the EWS systems's wiring than #3 above, (b) He did not want to experiment with a performance enhancing chip on his car from an unknown source.

In my opinion, I would have not gone this way. I would have gone for a good used silver label dme and bought an EWS delete chip with performance enhancement off ebay. These chips are clones anyway. This would have cost around $120 total, instead of the $60 that purchasing a red label dme alone came up to. My philosophy with these cars is to try to turn every major problem into an opportunity to upgrade the car somehow, along with fixing the original problem. IMO this turns a repair into an upgrade, is more emotionally satisfying both during and after the repair when the benefits of the upgrade are experienced, and worth spending more money on. You can fool yourself into thinking that "oh my car is not giving me problems, I'm just upgrading it" or something like that....well its an emotional trick certainly in order to feel less pissed off that your car has just screwed you but it works for me. :)

5. I noticed that Steve sir had a reluctance to try unconventional methods with his car (the EWS delete procedure is decidedly unconventional - in the nearly 2 years I've been on bimmerfest, I've not read one single post or thread on this subject till this one). This is understandable as oftentimes, trying something new with an old car creates additional problems. However, i would urge everyone to suppress the fear that the idea generates, grit your teeth and do research about the unconventional idea before you decide its not worth the trouble. Ultimately, that's what Steve did, and as a result (in purely dollar terms), he's spent something like $60 on the pure repair aspect of this problem, instead of something like $700 on a remanned dme, 2 hours of workshop time, and towing charges.

I would like to point out that mechanics themselves are the ones who REALLY do not like to try unconventional solutions, because they are such idiots and don't have the guts to take on potential liability issues. If I was in this situation and had towed the car to a workshop, they certainly wouldn't be telling me about EWS deletes and stuff. So really, in certain aspects, the car is better off in the hands of a skilled DIYer than a mechanic.

I wish to thank Steve for his patience with his car, and for his extensive and valuable writeup above. I feel it is important to read this to scrutinise and understand both the mechanical and the psychological elements of his experience. It would do us all a world of good to integrate this into our approach to our vehicle. Even those members who are skilled with their cars would find his writeup to be a very useful reminder of the correct method to use in troubleshooting and solving obvious and inobvious problems with the car.

Cheers ! And please let us know how your car is after you go on a WOT run :)

Oh yes Sir, I've heard that gasoline left standing in a fuel tank for months will separate out into different fractions and possibly lead to unpredictable effects on the system. May I suggest a full fillup with fresh gas together with an immediate diesel FI cleaning as well to be on the safe side? Rgds.

BMR_LVR 04-23-2011 07:51 AM

Thanks Roberto for your continued support and suggestions. I knew there would be a couple of things I would forget. As you know well by now, I am very conservative by nature and it took a lot to for me to "step outside the box", but I'm glad I did.

Shortly after this response is posted, the thread title shall be changed per your excellent suggestion.

Roberto did suggest the EWS delete chip, but honestly I am wary of some items purchased from eBay such as electronic chips for $40. Roberto seems to be able to find these better than I anyway. Oh and BTW Roberto, silver label DME's are actually very rare. I never once saw one on CL and I don't recall seeing one on eBay the whole time I searched. If I had chosen to go the route of the silver label DME and delete chip combination, I would likely still be looking.

And Roberto, I am going to step outside of the box and do the diesel in the tank to help clear things up inside. So you see my friend, I can indeed step outside of my comfort zone, but my conservative side will not let me stray TOO far ;)

Thanks for all of the nice feedback guys.


cager169 04-23-2011 10:01 AM

congrats! :thumbup:

luckydog 04-23-2011 07:40 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks for sharing the problem , trouble shooting and solution.

wisbimmer20 05-05-2011 09:24 AM

Hmm interesting. Thankfully I don't have this issue, just a missing properly coded key at the moment but it should be here in the next hour or so :D Another example of the kinds of issues that BMWs have that most cars will never have to experience. I guess it's part of the BMW experience

wawaiki 09-27-2011 09:04 AM

I'm currently experiencing the same silver DME trouble and just bought the red label DME. Judging from ur story and what you have done,EWS by pass sounds like a very simple stuff

Thanks for sharing ur experience and info

BMR_LVR 09-27-2011 09:16 AM

It's not really that bad. Let me know if I can be of any assistance. Good luck.


txrealtor 10-18-2011 09:53 AM

Does anyone know if these are the same directions for a 9/95 e34? Thanks!!!

BMR_LVR 10-18-2011 10:27 AM


Originally Posted by txrealtor (Post 6386861)
Does anyone know if these are the same directions for a 9/95 e34? Thanks!!!

They should be except that the EWS module is located on the left side of the driver's area under the kick panel.

Here is a very good document regarding the EWS system.

Let me know if I can help.


robertobaggio20 11-13-2011 09:14 AM

Just a bump for this thread. It deserves reading again, especially since someone here recently might have had an EWS issue. And I've been given honorable mention too. Hey there's a ham in all of us. :))

Yako2922 11-16-2011 11:46 PM

325i ews problem
Hi guys im new here, and i have similar problem with my car, 1st of all i buy this car no running, the guy told me that the car was running fine when he parked then next morning wont crank, so he replaced the ignition switch, and the car still dont crank( he never reprogamed the new key) so i install the old switch back on but the car still dont crank, so i cut the wires in the ews and put them together and i cut the other one mentioned above, and boom it cranks now :) but still wont start, seems like im not getting spark, so can you guys help me with that? Do i have to replace the ecu to red label to have the bypass working? I just dont wanna spend money on the chip if that is not the problem, so any advices on where to start? Thank you in advance guys

BMR_LVR 11-17-2011 06:25 AM

If the engine now turns over, then you have successfully bypassed the EWS. You will now have to go through a no-start diagnosis procedure. It is either a fuel supply issue or a spark issue. The diagnosis procedure is too long to go through in one short post, but, if you have some DIY skills, then search this forum for "Bentley manual". There is a link that you can download the manual. You need to go through it to learn how to diagnose the problem.

The most common causes of a no-start situation are: Failed crankshaft position sensor (CPS), failed fuel pump fuse, failed fuel pump relay, failed fuel pump, clogged fuel filter and failed main (DME) relay. If you rule out all other causes, then it is a possibility that the DME itself has failed. That is what happened with my E36 in the original post on this thread. Now that you have bypassed the EWS, a red label DME should work. Look for a used one in your area or you can get one off of E-bay usually.

I know this is not a full-on tutorial on how to check for each, but they are covered in the Bentley manual.

Hope this helps.


Yako2922 11-17-2011 10:19 AM

Well thats the problem... I dont know what label i have, if red or silver, if silver the bypass wont work? I was thinking more like i have to reprogram my transponder, but i have the original key nowThe car has no spark i dont know about fuel, i want to fix one problen at the time, other thing a found is the low beam head lights wont work so i dont know if thats related, thank you very much guys for your help and fast response

jfs356 11-17-2011 10:44 AM

Wow, a wealth of knowledge in the original post. I definitely learned a few things, thanks Steve!

robertobaggio20 11-17-2011 10:48 AM


Originally Posted by Yako2922 (Post 6446705)
Well thats the problem... I dont know what label i have, if red or silver, if silver the bypass wont work? I was thinking more like i have to reprogram my transponder, but i have the original key nowThe car has no spark i dont know about fuel, i want to fix one problen at the time, other thing a found is the low beam head lights wont work so i dont know if thats related, thank you very much guys for your help and fast response

You go get the ecu only if your dme is busted. This is extremely unlikely. Please go through the long list that Steve sir has provided for items that might have been busted. That must be your sole focus for now.

If you don't have spark (how did you determine this?) then the problem is pretty likely to be your crankshaft position sensor. Can't remember now but I don't think your car will crank without a working ecu. Can someone confirm this?

BMR_LVR 11-17-2011 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by Yako2922 (Post 6446705)
Well thats the problem... I dont know what label i have, if red or silver, if silver the bypass wont work? I was thinking more like i have to reprogram my transponder, but i have the original key nowThe car has no spark i dont know about fuel, i want to fix one problen at the time, other thing a found is the low beam head lights wont work so i dont know if thats related, thank you very much guys for your help and fast response

As I said earlier, if your car turns over when cranking, then the EWS is successfully bypassed. Since you have no spark, that's what I would look at first. The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) is the most common fail item that causes this problem. Locate the CPS right above the toothed wheel on the crankshaft pulley. Inspect the wire from the sensor to the connector. Sometimes they get worn if they are rubbing against any of the rotating assembly. If the wire looks fine, then disconnect the sensor. Use an ohm meter to check the resistance at terminals 1 and 2 on the CPS side of the connector. The Bentley manual had a misprint on the proper specifications. It should read 540 ohms +/- 10%, not 1280 as listed in the manual.

If that checks out ok, then I would look at the main (DME) relay. The best thing to do here is to get a new relay (about $45 from the dealer). Even if that is not the culprit, it is a good idea to have a spare in the car along with a spare fuel pump relay. Anyway, if you rule everything else out, then it is likely a failed DME. Since you have bypassed the DME, you should be able to put in a red label DME from any pre-95 M50 engined car (either E34 or E36).


Originally Posted by jfs356 (Post 6446748)
Wow, a wealth of knowledge in the original post. I definitely learned a few things, thanks Steve!

Thanks. I learned sooo much in the process of fixing that no-start situation. I hope others benefit as well.


Yako2922 11-17-2011 11:05 AM

Im a motorcycle mechanic, so i have tools to do the basic steps :) i have spark tester and there is no spark, wow i have to say this forum is the best one i ever been, very helpful people here thanks

BMR_LVR 11-17-2011 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by Yako2922 (Post 6446799)
Im a motorcycle mechanic, so i have tools to do the basic steps :) i have spark tester and there is no spark, wow i have to say this forum is the best one i ever been, very helpful people here thanks

Yes. There are some very helpful people here. Keep us posted on your progress.


Yako2922 11-18-2011 12:30 AM

Ok guys so i work on my car Couple hours today, i have haynes service manual and i have to say it really sucks, i cant find anything helpful.... Doesnt say how to check fuses or sensors or trace problems, so i just trow it and i worked on my own, i check all the relays and fuses one by one and are all good, i bypassed the fuel pump relay and i can hear the pump working, so i was like hmm, so i check the fuse again and is good BUT there is no power to the fuse, and of course still no spark, so to me sounds like the antitheft system is still on, what you guys think? Is there some way to check that? Like my other car (acura tl) it shows a light with a key on it when the antitheft is activated, so i believe the spark and fuel problems are related, symptoms of the antitheft right? actually im having fun trying to find the problem, now is getting personal and i like new challenges lol

BMR_LVR 11-18-2011 06:15 AM

Yako, if the anti-theft system (EWS II) is activiated, the car will not crank over. NOTHING will happen when you turn the key. If your engine is turning over, then the EWS is almost certainly bypassed.

It is beginning to sound like your DME may be bad. If the CPS is okay and the main relay is okay, then you should be getting spark. If you jump the fuel pump relay terminals and the pump runs, then (especially if you put in a new fuel pump relay) that, in combination with not having a spark, also leans towards a bad DME

The Haynes manual is woefully insufficient for diagnosing a no-start situation. Search this forum or Google for the Bentley manual. There is a link where you can download a copy in PDF format. Section 120 is where it sounds like you need to focus.


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