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-   -   Engine fault after changing valve cover gasket (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597385)

DrAsTiC 01-29-2012 02:22 PM

Engine fault after changing valve cover gasket
 
Hello everyone I am just looking to pick someones brain to see if anyone has had this problem. I just changed my valve cover and top timing cover gaskets on my 2004 745i. I started the car up and it ran very smooth so I took it for a test drive around the corner and it started to run very rough and the engine fault light came on. I put everything back exactly how it came off. I also ordered the peake code reader just to get the error codes but I am wondering if I have to do something else. I am avoiding having to bring the car to the dealership because I know I will get all kinds of BS from them.

USALEXUSBMW750 01-29-2012 02:30 PM

check the coils first, then see what happens

DrAsTiC 01-29-2012 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USALEXUSBMW750 (Post 6595441)
check the coils first, then see what happens

It's funny you say that because one of the brackets that hold down the coils snapped on me and I am waiting for bmw to get them for me. Do you think the metal bracket that holds them down could be the problem?

DrAsTiC 01-29-2012 02:37 PM

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...21&hg=11&fg=15
Look at #9 that is what I am talking about.

USALEXUSBMW750 01-29-2012 02:41 PM

I herd some people had that problem before

DrAsTiC 01-29-2012 03:30 PM

Thanks for your help I am gonna check the coils out and hopefully the peake code reader say the same thing .

HerbP 01-29-2012 05:05 PM

When you removed the fuel rail, there is probably air in the fuel system. If it does not smooth out, that is not the problem. My next guess would be the vent pipes on the front of the engine. This would mainly affect the idling!

Good Luck!

DrAsTiC 01-29-2012 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HerbP (Post 6595799)
When you removed the fuel rail, there is probably air in the fuel system. If it does not smooth out, that is not the problem. My next guess would be the vent pipes on the front of the engine. This would mainly affect the idling!

Good Luck!

Thanks Herb I did not remove the fuel rail when I removed the valve cover just the coils and the wire assembly for them. I just changed the oil vent lines from the valve covers to the new and updated ones. The old one was one piece that connected all of the vents together now I have two separate oil vents.

In this picture you will see #1 is the old style and #2 and #3 are the new replacement which I was a bit skeptical about but hey bmw says it's right lol.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...59&hg=11&fg=15

HerbP 01-29-2012 07:34 PM

You must have just removed the passenger side valve cover? That is the new hose configuration now. What are your current symptoms with the engine currently?

DrAsTiC 01-29-2012 08:05 PM

I removed just the drivers side because it was leaking bad. When I start the car up it runs fine for about a minute then all hell breaks loose ,the engine fault light pops up and the idling gets really crazy and seems like it is missfiring or something. I am going to record a video tomorrow of it so you can see the exact symptoms.

DrAsTiC 02-02-2012 02:08 PM

Okay I got the peake code reader and this is the error codes it kicked out
table 22
273d=catalytic converter conversion (bank 2)
27bb=camshaft control outlet -vanos0
27bc=camshaft control outlet-vanos bank2
274e=misfire detection, checksum failure
2731=camshaft control inlet
2732=nw-intaken control bank2
2744=misfire detection cyl 4
2742=misfire dtection cyl 1
2749=misfre detection cyl 2
2747=misfire detection cyl 3

I worked on the drivers side of the engine so not really sure why the misfires are happening on the passenger side.Any idea what could be causing these problems?

DrAsTiC 02-02-2012 04:51 PM

A friend of mine just told me that the actuator (servo motor) on the valve cover needs to be recalibrated. Has anyone had to do this before? How much did it cost?

HerbP 02-02-2012 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrAsTiC (Post 6605834)
A friend of mine just told me that the actuator (servo motor) on the valve cover needs to be recalibrated. Has anyone had to do this before? How much did it cost?


If you turn the ignition on for 20 sec before starting, you will here it synchronize. It does not to need to be taken to the shop for that.

DrAsTiC 02-02-2012 05:20 PM

I put the key in without starting it today while I was using the peake code reader and it started up the same way I will see it I hear it synchronize.Thanks Herb

HerbP 02-02-2012 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrAsTiC (Post 6605487)
Okay I got the peake code reader and this is the error codes it kicked out
table 22
273d=catalytic converter conversion (bank 2)
27bb=camshaft control outlet -vanos0
27bc=camshaft control outlet-vanos bank2
274e=misfire detection, checksum failure
2731=camshaft control inlet
2732=nw-intaken control bank2
2744=misfire detection cyl 4
2742=misfire dtection cyl 1
2749=misfre detection cyl 2
2747=misfire detection cyl 3

I worked on the drivers side of the engine so not really sure why the misfires are happening on the passenger side.Any idea what could be causing these problems?


After seeing all of these codes, you have a bad vacuum leak. Did you change the shaft seal for the Eccentric Shaft sensor? Have you checked for cracks in the vent pipe? I still want to know how you got the valve cover off without removing the fuel rail & injectors from the intake?

DrAsTiC 02-02-2012 05:29 PM

I did change the eccentric shaft gasket since the old one was bad. I replaced the old vent pipe with the new updated one which is two piece instead of one. I took the partition wall off,disconnected the coil wires and housing for them. It took some playing with it but it came off. I can't drive the car and the tow to the dealership will cost $500 so I am trying to find out as much as I can about similar issues people have had. I am greatful for you taking the time to help.

HerbP 02-02-2012 05:49 PM

Here is a way to find out if you have a vacuum related problem. Remove both vent tube pipes. Go to a boat store & buy 4 3/4" tapered plugs. Measure your openings to make sure. Put these plugs in both ends of the openings where the vent tube goes. This will remove the crank case ventilation vacuum. Crank the engine up & watch for positive pressure smoke blow out of any openings, indicating where you have a vacuum leak. This should show if the problem is vacuum related. Do not leave the engine running for more than a couple of minutes this way.

Have you checked all connectors for any wires that you might have forgotten to plug back in? Random misfires are from spark, fuel, or vacuum. Did you remove your injectors from the intake. If you did, there are 2 o-rings for every injector. If 1 falls off, it causes are into the fuel system.

Lets try and figure out one item at a time!

collins912 02-02-2012 05:52 PM

I had that problem when I changed mine. I took everything back apart and made sure all connections were clean and connected properly. Me personally when I did mine I think it was definitely the coil plugs at the top. Make sure those prongs are clean and seated properly. Hope that helps bro!

DrAsTiC 02-02-2012 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by collins912 (Post 6606019)
I had that problem when I changed mine. I took everything back apart and made sure all connections were clean and connected properly. Me personally when I did mine I think it was definitely the coil plugs at the top. Make sure those prongs are clean and seated properly. Hope that helps bro!

Thanks man tomorrow I am going to try and see what is going on. I am going to put another new eccentric gasket,check the plugs,coils,everything. I did use a gasket sealant and my valve cover is not leaking no more so I figure I will check all of the o rings and gaskets. Thanks guys I will keep everyone posted lol

HerbP 02-02-2012 06:21 PM

If you use the plugs, it will check the gaskets. You will see smoke!

DrAsTiC 02-02-2012 06:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Not sure what you mean Herb? How can I use the plugs to check the gaskets. Sorry lol I am still learning.

Here is a pic of my car

HerbP 02-02-2012 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrAsTiC (Post 6606083)
Not sure what you mean Herb? How can I use the plugs to check the gaskets. Sorry lol I am still learning.

Here is a pic of my car

If your gaskets are leaking anywhere on the motor, you will see it. The back pressure smoke will come out of any unsealed opening. You will no it when you see it. It's a quick easy check!

DrAsTiC 02-02-2012 06:46 PM

Okay I know what you mean sorry I had brain cell freeze for a few minutes lol. I am going to try using smoke also.Thanks Herb

Keif 02-05-2012 01:09 AM

Go around and disconnect/reconnect every plug on/near the valve cover -- maybe you bonked a plug loose without realizing it. Particularly, check the plugs at the front and side of the black plastic wire looms by the fuel rail (especially on the passenger side).

Additionally, you could lightly wiggle the wires at each plug with the engine running until the error comes up / engine starts running funny again.

TUF-FKR 10-04-2012 10:04 PM

So I am going to bring this thread back to life as I am getting the same symptoms after an engine rebuild. (same code(s) 2731,2748,2760)


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